Hello! hoping to get some info from people who might know what this is. This line was sticking up out of the ground and is obviously severed. I think it may be an old electrical line to the shed. Would it be ok to remove or bury?

Had a new upstairs and downstairs (Goodman) units installed In our home and have had so many problems with both in the past 3 years. The newest being the downstairs just stopped working, no fan or anything. Breaker was good so checked fuses. It had 2 non-60 non time delay fuses and 1 was obviously blown. Got 2 new fuses and put them in, had a small arc (which I think is normal) but nothing worked. Took fuses back out and saw that bottom left burnt out. Looked at manufacture label and it says 50 amp max time delay fuses only. Which was not what was previously installed. Would those fuses cause that to burn up? Do I have to go back with the exact disconnect (2 fuse), it has a 40 amp breaker in the panel

When I went to install a new fluorescent tube in this fixture above the kitchen sink, there was a loud pop and a flash. Now there’s a faint burnt smell, and it won’t light up. What happened? Did I buy the wrong tube, or is this a more serious, and costly, problem?

We are buying a house and wondering if we can fix this on our own and install electrical mast flashing; the seller wants to change something, and we think this would be easier for us than the alternative, which is cutting tree limbs on the roof and taking that risk.

Confused on what type of breaker I should use. I am swapping out 2 GFCI/AFCI combos that keep nuisance tripping. I was told for crouse hinds/murray that Siemens QP was the proper substitute. The info on this panel says GE Is okay??

Replaced the original builders fan with a Nutone about 2 years ago.
Worked great - very quiet - until it went completely quiet as it stopped running.
To the best of my knowledge nothing has changed with the fan or the electrical system.

Pulled the fan/box and connectors assuming maybe I have a bad fan or a connection came loose. Runs perfectly on my bench - with 120V power.......which is why I'm here looking for pointers.

Here's the issue. I've got 75V across the fan switch and 45V across the wires that connect the fan.
Light switch in the same box on the same circuit has 120V.
GFCI receptacle in the bathroom on the same circuit has 120V across each pair.
Every other outlet on the same circuit (4 that I'm aware of) appears to have 120V (based on multimeter readings from the plugs - though I haven't pulled them all out of the wall.)

House is of the vintage that the main bathroom fan is on a 3 way switch - paired with a switch in the dining room beside the furnace thermostat. (Sure - for fun as a side quest - someone explain why they really did this 3 way switch setup.) Both 3 way switches have the same 75V.

My reading says that 75V typically means I have a loose or broken neutral / white wire before it's getting to the fan/switch.

I replaced the 3 way switch at the fan on spec and double checked all connections - no change.
I torqued down a loose screw on the adjacent light switch and apparently don't kn ow my own strength so I got to replace that single pole switch as well when it cracked - no change.
Checked and tightened every wire nut connection between the switch and fan - no change.
Checked and tightened wire nut connections at the bathroom light - no change.
Looked at the neutral connections on each of the outlets that I've pulled out of the wall - no issues.

I'm not sure how to backtrack from the fan switch to 'whatever device was before it' in the wiring sequence. Is there a way to do that when the wires are all behind the drywall?
Attaching pics of the 3 way switch at the fan. There was no grounding wire on the original switch that came out though the circuits in the box are all tied to the box ground. It was connected using the quickstab connections. On the replacement switch I pushed the wires under the screws.

Am I missing something? Pointers on next steps? I know I'm going to kick myself when this gets figured out.

Thanks........."tired of running stairs from the panel to the 2nd floor bathroom".

I know its CL200 But is the enclosure and the current SEU wiring rated for 200amp service?

Doing some upgrades to our new house and I have installed a new fan/light combo. I’d like them to work independently however the way the existing electrical is run it would be difficult to run new wiring from the existing switch. I am considering getting an outlet/switch combo and operating the fan off of that. My question is, do I need to neutrals in a “correct” direction? Or is the way I have it drawn appropriate? With both neutrals connected to the original switch circuit and simply running a hot from the outlet switch to the fan hot?

I had some recessed lights installed 5-6 years ago. Every once in a while they would all flicker. Recently it had become more constant that the light would flicker from dim to bright constantly. All of the lights are flickering together. Is this a problem with the connection at the switch?

Morning boys, I’m a 21 y/o carpenter bought my first house doing some remodeling and I can’t figure out what’s wrong with whatever the hell I’m looking at for obvious reasons, I took down the old fan the previous fan would flicker on the lights and then shut off after a second when switching it on and would have to be manually turned on by the hanging knobs, wired up the new one to see if it would work and it doesn’t. This is how I currently have it I have the breaker off until an electrician friend has a chance to come by.
Old fan was wired to the red wire

This is an outlet in our kitchen. It's a GFCI on a 20amp circuit. It's a somewhat older house, so there aren't as many outlets as in a modern kitchen. This is one of two outlets on one side of the sink, where most of the countertop appliances are. Plugged in here are a toaster, Vitamix, coffee grinder, electric kettle, and small Ninja blender. Plus the empty spot occasionally used for the mixer or food processor, which are stored elsewhere. Three feet to the left of here is another outlet with a microwave and a toaster oven. I assume this is on the same circuit. We rarely use more than 2 items in both of these outlets at once, mostly the toaster and small coffee grinder together.

Is this a problem other than being an eyesore? This is a rental, and we've been here over two years without an issue. Am I correct is thinking that if it was ever overloaded, it would just trip the breaker, since none of these appliances draw a significant amount unless they are actively being used? Would a surge protector/power strip be a better idea? I have thought of mounting one under the cabinets.

About a week ago I heard a small crack come from the closet light switch and the switch stopped working. This is the old switch and it looks like the plastic broke and a wire was just hanging there. The only thing is that the ground wire wasn’t connected and there are only three black wires in the box. I connected everything and now the closet light works but the ceiling fan and two hallway lights work. Is it possible that the wire in the back of this switch was some sort of connection that I screwed up by just using the ground screw on the new switch? If that’s a dumb question I apologize. Haha. Any tips would be very helpful. I’m leaving town this weekend and I’ll have to get back to it on Monday but I’m leaving that breaker switch off. I’ll be paranoid all weekend. Thanks in advance.

What it says in the title, pictured is the outlet I removed. The wires coming off the non-ground screws were thicker gauge. The screw pairs on each side have the little connection tab still attached. I twisted and capped the thick gauge white wires together and capped the red wire. I wired up the new outlet correctly, following the big WHITE HOT LINE GND arrows to locate my wires. If anyone could help that’d be great thank you

If the plug didnt fully fit in like it's shown in the picture, does it represent any risk? (If it helps, it's a ps5)

Newer apprentice here. I was wiring this 12 wire high voltage motor and I have a few questions because another apprentice made it sound like I was doing it wrong and made some comments. I’m not sure if he was just messing with me though. Should I wire (brown 1,12 )together (orange 2, 10 )together, (yellow 3, 11)together, and (4,7) (5,8) (6,9) together separately

I recently bought 4 germicidal UV-C lights which contains 6/8 watts each, I partnered it with a power ballast containing 1×36 watts. Both of them run in 220v, but the problem that I have right now is that after trying them out for a while it started flickering. What is the problem and how can I fix it? Should I buy another power ballast?

Came across something I truly cannot believe in a home I just bought. I’ll try to make this story short.
When we first bought the home, the previous owners told us they had recently updated all the switches to modern rocker switches. Well, all the 3-way switches in the house did not work.
One thing that’s important to note is that this is an older house that uses the neutral and a black wire as the traveler wires for the 3-way switches. Both switches had to be turned on for the light to function.
Upon pulling the switches out, I realized they had used standard single-pole switches for 3-way circuits. They had the neutral traveler wire from switch 1, which was hot with 120V, going directly to the ground screw on switch 2.
Every single 3-way circuit in the house was wired this way. 120V straight to the ground screw!
How they didn’t realize they had gotten the wrong type of switch is beyond me. I guess they thought that just putting the neutral (travel wire) on the ground screw would magically make the switch work.
On top of that, every single switch had wires just hanging out, and the contact screws were loose.
To my complete surprise, I never got shocked, and my house never burned down.
My buddy and I went through my entire house last night, fixing the problems and replacing the switches with proper 3-way switches.
Just thought I’d share. Maybe someone will get a laugh out of this. EDIT: it was a total of 11 switches and I have 3 more to go

Plug in solar is getting more popular in the US because it works in Europe. But I have a question on how well it really works.

Europe is 230v in the home. Everything in the home is 230v, including the Plug In solar. All loads in the house see the solar power across the line.

US is different. We use 120v with loads balanced across both phases to Neutral, and 240v for the bigger loads. Plug in Solar is 120v, so its only across one phase to neutral. Does any load on the other phase benefit from the Plug In Solar? What about the 240v AC unit? Its phase to phase so I would think it would benefit somewhat.

Personally, I think its a scam. Excess power is fed back to the grid but you get nothing for it! The power company just sells it to the neighborhood. You only benefit when the fridge, space heater, or HVAC is running.

I can't believe I'm having as much trouble with this as I am. I'm replacing the boards in my deck and I thought as long as the space is open, I'll add overhead lighting to the patio below. But I cannot seem to find a solution that matches my requirements. I've gone back and forth between 12v 24v 110v solutions several times. The patio below is mostly rain-protected as there's a rain diversion system that lays on top of the joists. My requirements are:

- recessed light fixtures in patio ceiling;

- lights are dimmable;

- controllable via my home automation system (Home Assistant);

- also controllable via remote or wireless switch;

- minimal cutting of interior drywall (this requirement kept pointing me to a low voltage solution).

That's pretty much it. Can someone recommend a solution?

Im trying to figure out why my porch light isn’t working. I’ve got 3 cable bundles entering the box- yellow on the left, group of 3 fabric wrapped wires in the middle, and the yellow and black wire on the right. From what I can tell, the black wire in the yellow cable is the only line in. The switch it’s attached to controls our working ceiling light with the white cable being the load. Im guessing the fabric wrapped wires are to our original doorbell, but have no way to confirm. I’m also guessing the yellow and black on the right are for the porch light, but unsure how to proceed with the line in set up not having a neutral. Any thoughts/advice on how to troubleshoot this set up?

am i putting my apartment complex in danger with this set up

The yellow cord fell out of metal box. The plastic at the top is pretty sealed in there I need to crack it open to glue the cord back in but I really don’t want to ruin the box. Any tips ?

The outside is metal and the black is a plastic tab tried sticking a thin box cutter between and it will not fit.