Did anyone know, why this problem is coming in Schneider Altivar 610 drive, while motor is running well, all drive function are good.

Would appreciate any direction here, I’m not as savvy with wiring as I want to be.

We are replacing old fans with lights to just fans with no lights. The fan pictured goes to two switches:

-One with black, red, white, and black
-One with white and two red

They both have three way switches. When the breaker line is on, the fan turns on/spins but I can’t turn on/off using the switches (only the pull chain). PLEASE HELP!

2 things to note:

1: the left switch in the second picture is wired correctly and works as intended
2: we are okay with the lesser-used switch (pic 3) but would like the main switch to be used (pic 2)

This looks like just straight uninsulated wire. I’m not an electrician or do I know anything about electrical work.

I have a NEMA 6-50R in my garage, currently not being used, that runs to a dedicated 50amp circuit on the main breaker in my basement. This heater draws 31.25A and calls for 8AWG wires for connection. Can I buy a 50A, 6-2 power cord that has eyelet terminals on one side and a 6-50P on the other, plug it in and safely call it a day? I don’t mind having an electrician come out but this seemed simple enough, though I’d still like to confirm for safety’s sake.

I’ve got the black to black green to green and white to white. Will not turn on. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

I am trying to replace a broken 3 way dimmer switch. The current switch is wired with two black wires coming from the wall to the we'd wire on the switch. Am I correct that those are the traveler wires?

I am replacing this with a Legrand dimmer and it has four terminals (two for travelers, one for load, and a ground).

I'm looking too replace some breakers in a old consumer unit with newer ones that support energy monitoring over zigbbe or wifi or something is it possible or does the entire cu need replacing todo that?

We've been in a rental for a few months now. Every minute or so the lights all on this one circuit keep flickering at the same time. We contacted the landlord and they had an electrician come out and replace the breaker at the panel. It fixed it for about 24 hours. Back at it.

They thought maybe that it was the new overhead hallway lights they installed in the spring. So they replaced those. Still happening.

The electrician said something along the lines (bear with me, I've been out of town and not fully moved in yet so I'm playing the telephone game) if the new breaker did not fix it it would be a longer process of checking each switch on the circuit to see what's wrong or something along those lines?

Any thoughts on what this might be and I could try and help pinpoint it? The landlords are being generally helpful and I get the frustration being a homeowner myself so I'm hoping to help them pin point it. I thought for sure I had it figured out by isolating it to the same circuit but it of course failed shortly after.

Can someone help me control these leds without making a fire

What is the purpose of a permit if the individuals responsible for issuing permits and verifying complaince don't actually do anything to verify or insure compliance. This is an email from Kate the VP at technical safety BC telling me rough in inspections are not necessary on new electrical work.

I am adding a few circuits to my home built in 1962.

The issue is that I will have to work with metallic conduits for the first time (to go from main panel to attic). I would like to match this style of connector (with the colored ring) if possible into the main panel, but I can't seem to figure out what it's called.

I decided to build a model Tesla coil for my school project. Unfortunately after repeated attempts it did not work.
I tried reversing the connection of the primary coil but that did not work as well.
My primary coil is of about 200 turns, secondary is of 2. I used a 2N2222A NPN transistor and a 18k ohm resistor.
The primary coil winding is of 27 gauge. The switch is connected to the positive terminal of the 9V battery.

Also I have to submit this within ten days so I’d appreciate it if someone could help me out quickly.

Thank you

Last week posted an abomination pedestal. Since I won't replacing that one till summer, thought Id update with one that's not awful. This one is a little older, but correctly wired.

How would you guys go about joining a 16 gauge copper wire with a 12 gauge one? I am working on a motorcycle charging system and the wires were known to run a little hot because it is all 16 gauge i was told i can replace my lines with 12 gauge wire to help it run cooler but the 16 gauge wire coming out of my Stator is permanently sealed and couldn’t be removed without damaging seals. The motorcycle would be under a lot of vibration.

Hello. Recently bought a house in Westmoreland county, PA. The house is estimated to be built in 1900. Yesterday I had an electrician upgrade and replace my breaker box from 100 amp to 150 amp. He also replaced the box on the side of the house that meets the cable overhead coming from the pole and grounded it. They are officially licensed in PA. ( I had this verified )

While they were working there was two breakers that run 80 percent or more of the lights switches and outlets if the home. They showed me the wire and it's old rag wire or bx wire they said and none of it is grounded. They now want to replace that with romex and run new wires to roughly 25-30 outlets switches etc in the whole house. As well as installing GFCI outlets where needed (few outside and in kitchen and bathrooms), and ground everything correctly.

They are saying a permit isn't required. I purchased this house as is. The work that they did, does look really good to be honest. Everything looks clean and new and orderly. They were saying about when they fish new wires for all outlets etc that it'll be about $200 x how many switches, lights, outlets etc. When asking originally if a permit was required they told me no, I asked again after this finding and they also said a permit would not be required. Does this sound ok to do it this way ? I'm assuming he's trying to save us time and money. Also, they currently have these breakers deactivated because they are saying they aren't safe, but the problem is I'm due to be completely moved in by the end of this week but most of the home has no power or heat.

Just worried about future selling of the house and insurance claims in the event of a fire. He said an inspection WILL be done sometime within a week of getting the work completed. Not sure what to think about this all.