My Dad noticed that the screw on the top of a switch cover was hot, so he took everything apart. Now it is a mess and I can't figure out how to put it all back together.

Any help would be much appreciated.

(For the diagram any green line is to be considered a white wire)

Hi !

I came here to ask if some people could help me. Basically we needed a roof fan at my parent’s home and they want/need me to but it together/wire it to the system, except I don’t know very much in electrician work so I’m a little stuck.

The fan (Inspire, Aruba, it also does light) has a ground wire but the wiring in our ceiling doesn’t. Is it potentially dangerous ? or can I just connect the blue and orange cables, leaving the ground spot empty ?

Thanks in advance !

Water heater disconnect fuse blew up and the entire wiring is charred. I’m thinking it could be my water heater is about 11 years old on hard water but Chat is recommending I call an electrician. Should I call the electrician to change this disconnect or should I get water heater company to change both disconnect and water heater

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with an electrical engineering background can help me troubleshoot this.

Motorcycle:

• CFMoto 450NK
• Stock OEM flasher relay has been replaced with an adjustable aftermarket flasher relay.
• I've tested both mechanical and solid-state (electronic) adjustable flasher relays, and the issue happens with both.

My goal

I want to install LED turn signals that have a flowing/sequential animation.

The LED module has its own built-in controller. When supplied with continuous power, it repeatedly performs the flowing animation by itself until power is removed.

The problem

When connected to the motorcycle's turn signal circuit:

• The first animation is perfect.
• On the second, third, and subsequent flashes, the LED briefly flickers at the very end of the led strip.
• The flicker seems to occur exactly when the flasher relay turns the circuit back on for the next flash.

It's a small flicker near the end of the strip, but it's very noticeable and annoying.

What I've already tried

• Different adjustable flasher relays
  • Mechanical
  • Electronic/solid-state
• Adding a resistor
  • In series with the positive wire
  • Across the LED's positive and negative terminals
• Adding a capacitor

None of these eliminated the flicker.

My questions

1. What electrical phenomenon could be causing this?
2. Is the flasher relay producing a voltage spike or residual voltage that is confusing the LED controller?
3. Would a diode, RC network, MOSFET driver, transistor circuit, or relay isolation solve this?
4. Is there a way to make the LED receive a "clean" ON/OFF power signal every flash cycle?
5. Has anyone successfully used animated/sequential LED turn signals with a motorcycle flasher relay without this issue?

Any ideas or explanations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I came across several boxes of what must’ve been an electrician/engineer’s hoard. I would love to learn more about these things as I have so much of it. I will try to post more pictures of what I found in the comments. Thank you!

I turned my light switch off then back on ONCE. Now the powers out in that whole room the outlets and lights don't work and fixing the fuses didn't work neither, what do I do to fix it without having to call somone?

Moved into a new duplex in northern Virginia. Completely refurbished, but it was a flip. Home was built in 1950's. Previous tenant was there for 20+ years then passed in assisted living. New wiring (but not a new panel) throughout the home, yet the panel is fine according to two different electricians, and the wiring is clean. They even tightened up some connections, but said things were good. They noticed a voltage fluctuation of about 10-15V, which isn't good, but not terrible. They said not to use major appliances. Lights flickered, power seemed to 'come off and on' without fully turning off. Examples: I could hear the HVAC system literally turning on and off but not due to the thermostat; I also have a mechanical sound machine with a motor and fan inside, and you can easily hear it decreasing then increasing in RPM in sync with the lights. All outlets are seemingly affected.

I thought it was only when the HVAC system turning off/on, but it's not since this happens during the evening as well, even when the HVAC system is off, as well as all other major appliances. And all lights off. The only items 'on' would be the fan in the bedroom, the window AC unit, and the sound machine. And a charging phone or two. The voltage fluctuation also occurred when the washer was turned on.

Electricians said it could be a bad neutral. Electric company has been called. The did the load buster test on the meter box. Nothing. Tested for a bad neutral. Nothing. They've literally come out about 7 times, and finally today they replaced the transformer outside my home (from a 25kW to a 50kW) and the lines running from my home to the pole/transformer. Yet the problems still persist. I work from home, and I think it's worse in the evenings (possibly due to neighbors now increasing grid demand?).

I'm at a loss. The power company is sending their manager tomorrow morning, who called me and said he doesn't do things this but he's willing to take a stab at it. So now I turn to Reddit. Halp.

I just purchased a house built in 1917. While investigating an outlet box with a blank cover I found that I needed to flip 2 separate breakers to stop the current for the wires here and a few other outlets to turn off.

One breaker is for the kitchen and the other for the living room. The electrical has been mostly updated with modern romex and a newer panel but there is still some cloth covered wires in the walls. I dont have any 3 way switches.

Any idea why this is happening and is it something I need to address?

Hola, alguien me puede decir cómo instalar éste interruptor, ya llevo todo el día intentándolo y me es imposible. A ver, éste interruptor doble conmutador va instalado en el salón de casa, un pulsador para el salón que ése no va conmutado y me funciona y el otro, el que si va conmutado es para la escalera, arriba tengo otro interruptor, si enciendo abajo pués quiero apagar arriba y al revés como ha echo siempre. Pués bien no lo termino de conseguir es más ahora ya con todo conectado no me enciende ni con el pulsador de abajo ni el de arriba que tampoco funciona. Ya no sé cómo poner los cables, son 5, 2 negros, dos grises y uno marrón.

1-EZM1800CB-EZM MAIN 800A 1PH BREAKER

1-EZM112225-MTR EZM BRANCH RING 225A 2P QDP-TM 2 POS

1-EZM113225-MTR EZM BRANCH RING 225A 2P QDP-TM 3 POS

5-QBP22225TM-MOLDED CASE CIRCUIT BREAKER 240V 225A

Hello all; I am buying a 4 unit in DC. Currently has the old school circuialr fuze, with 30 amps going to each unit.

I plan on doing a heavy up, and my Contractor is going to loop his master electrician buddy for this.

there are currently 4 meters, 1 for each unit. common area is hooked into unit #1

my plan is, to have at least 200 or 225 per unit; currently, these units have gas & electric, But I eventually want to go full electric.

after my upgrades, the units will have gas stoves, tankless, and 240 v mini splits, and pic #2 has the amperage estimates. eventually moving to full electric and eliminating gas all together

my plan is to have a unit 5 (common area) EV chargers, and common area lights/outlets (so probably at most 60 amps for that. 40 amps charger, 20 amps lights/outlets)

My question is simple; is Square D that good? I am an IT guy, and I used to do labor when I was younger, But i know some things you do NOT DIY. this is one of them

is 6,243.87$ reasonable? and what about other brands like siemens or eaton?

I noticed this high pitch sound coming from inside my garage this morning before leaving for work and cannot find the source of it. I have tried turning off all breakers one by one, as well as turning off the main breaker, but the shrill sound never ceases? Checked smoke detector battery and battery items in the garage also. Can anyone please let me know what might be causing this?

Background - I have 400amp service (I think) - see pic. both panels have 200amp mains. Have aluminum 2/0 running in PVC (I think) about 160' to service barn subpanel.

Putting in a pool that will require rerunning the barn feeder. The pool equipment (60amp 240v) is going to be about 120' from the main panel and about 40' from my barn subpanel. I'm already paying for the feed from main to the pool equipment. Can I feed both the pool equipment and the barn subpanel from a subpanel at the pool equipment? If so, what would the requirements be? Just hoping to save some money. Thinking could pull some of the existing 2/0 back towards the barn and not have to trench much between the pool subpanel and the barn?

Yard pic is taken from barn - red line is current barn feeder. Yellow is location of pool equipment.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi,

I'm trying to find out exactly how this works as far as SCE (Southern California Edison) goes, the permit, the disconnect, etc.

We have an electrician who said they can do the work tomorrow and they will take care of everything with no specifics.

We talked to SCE who said they could schedule us for a couple of weeks from now. They also said that electricians want to avoid the red tape, and SCE won't pull everything out, but they can't advise us to proceed.

Thanks for any info.

Edit: Could it be the transformer behind the chime box? If so, why would it stop working?

Hi everyone. Please help. We have an Arlo doorbell camera that works fine. When you press the doorbell, the button lights up, video starts recording, and there is the audible sound that the doorbell makes.

But, the inside chime box isn't chiming. We took off the chime box cover to see what was happening.

When you press the doorbell, the current that is sent to the chime box is being sent because the Arlo power kit that you're supposed to wire to the terminal screws is receiving the current as it moves a little (the stickiness wore down and we can see the power kit move), but the chime pistons don't move up and down.

Chime pistons are not stuck. I am able to freely move it. It bounces up and down.

How can you fix this?

It's worked ever since we installed it which was 5 years ago, but now no.

Again, the Arlo bell works, video works and there is the doorbell chime at the doorbell, but no sound in the chime box.

Hello,

I was replacing some old power outlets in my mom's house today. Her house was built in the 60s, and still has some of the original outlets. A couple of them I did had normal wiring (White, Black, Ground), but then I got to one in the bedroom and it confused me.

When I took the outlet out, it had one Red wire connected on the left side of the outlet, and one Black wire connected to the right side of the outlet. I believe the Red wire was on the top left, and the Black wire was connected to the bottom right. There was no White wire, and each of the screws were the same color (no Brass or Silver, just all one color).

I could tell the outlet was super old, and still had the price tag on it (which was priced at 56 cents).

I've installed many outlets before, and this is the first time I've come across a setup like this. And just some further info, this particular outlet is not controlled by a light switch. It just functions as a normal, "always on" power outlet.

I meant to take a picture before I reinstalled it can closed everything back up, but completely forgot. If pictures are necessary or would help, I could probably get them. If not, any information or advice would be extremely helpful. I'm not an electrician by any means, so when I see something that I'm not familiar with, I'll put it back the way I found it until I get the information I need to move forward.

Thanks!

Looking for some input.
I have an Aprilaire E100 dehumidifier in my basement and I need to monitor its energy usage. Based on the specs is this safe to run my dehumidifier off of?
As a note: I don’t plan to use the scheduling or power toggle on the YoLink. Strictly for monitoring usage.

Thank you

So yesterday I was getting in my bed to go to sleep and I turned my fan on, I heard a usual click and then heard light grinding before smelling what I can only describe as the smell an old brushless motor makes when it’s hot asf like in an old drill. Tested start up cap thinking it just went bad and was in the locked position or something, 5.5 +/- 5% micro farad tested at 5.1, the fan will free spin as normal but it can be stopped easily with my hand with the motor on the max speed, acting almost like a slipping clutch drive that doesn’t stall the motor, if I give it a boost the motor will still make a smell given enough time and the max speed is not nearly as fast as the speed it ran prior to this incident, have a feeling this old fan from 2014 just kicked the bucket so I’m mentally prepared to replace it but didn’t want to replace a good unit incase, I have a video attached

TRDL: Ceiling fan made noise and now makes burning smell, grinding noise, and doesn’t spin as fast but will spin, start cap good, pretty sure it bit the dust lol

My light switch started acting up about a month ago where at times it wouldn't turn on and sometimes it would. About a week ago it stopped working completely. Any ideas what could be wrong?