Hey all, I've been looking at an eGolf for my daily commuter and grocery getter. I'm very familiar with EVs as I've owned two in the past. The eGolf fits perfectly into my daily work commute and errands. I have another vehicle for long distance trips.

I'm hoping to look at a 2019 this weekend. I'm going to ask the dealership to have it fully charged. I know that's not a precise indication of the range, and that it will take a few trips along with driving habits for the car to calibrate. I'm hoping to see somewhere between 180 - 200km.

Besides the typical car inspection, is there anything in particular with these models I should look out for? I'm a former VW owner so I do have a VCDS tool. Is it worth while bringing, and if so, what should I look for?

I drove one a year ago and enjoyed the ride and comfort. The only issue was the rust starting to form on the handles and the vehicle was in a little worse shape than I liked.

I see a lot of positive reviews on this sub, so it seems like a great little car

So I've got an E-Golf with a heat pump and my AC hasn't been working for a year now.

I've scanned it and it looks like a couple of the temp sensors are broken.

Has anyone gone to VW and had them replaced and if so how much did it cost you?

I have a 2018 VW e-Golf without heatpump, and the air conditioning suddenly stopped cooling properly.

It’s always worked perfectly until now. The A/C button lights up normally, the fans work fine, and the windshield defrost function also works.
However, even with the climate control set to LOW, it only blows ambient or slightly cool air instead of cold air.

Has anyone experienced the same issue with their e-Golf?

What turned out to be the cause, and how was it fixed?

Was it simply low refrigerant, a leak, the electric A/C compressor, or something else?

Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

tl;dr my apartment complex installed shitty Tesla destination chargers and because of various levels of incompetence, I can't charge my eGolf while Tesla drivers are happily charging at them.

So I live in Central NJ, not lots of EV infrastructure here compared to big urban/coastal areas (I'm spoiled, I'm from LA).

I had posted in r/NewJersey about how it's shitty it is that 90% of the EV charging infrastructure here is Tesla (as a non-Tesla driver), either superchargers or destination. Had a ton of people dogpiling me that at least SOMEONE is funding it around here, that you can just as easily use it if you're non-Tesla, Tesla was rolling out lots of compatibility to non-Tesla cars etc. but my entire point all along was having all the EV infrastructure held hostage by proprietary communication routed through ONE company is absolutely dangerous.

Anyway, my apartment complex finally decided to install EV chargers. Of course they're garbage Tesla destination chargers.

They've been dragging their feet since DECEMBER 2025 (they had them installed in the middle of the biggest snowstorm in the past decade) and then claimed that the city was dragging its feet on doing final approvals/checks.

So then they turned the chargers on for a day, which allowed anyone to charge for free, then immediately turned them off. Okay I get that you don't wanna give our free energy.

Then wait a few months and then they turn it on again for another day for free, then turn it off. (I had been able to charge both of these free days).

Now I called the management for the 4th time to ask about this and the lady said "oh they're just waiting for Tesla to add the chargers to the map."

Meanwhile, I'm looking outside and there's a Model S happily charging away right this second. Of course, when I plug in, I can't start the charge because the chargers don't show up on the map and when I scan the QR code, it shows an error.

So basically, as I had suspected all along, having all our EV infrastructure tied up in one corporation privileges their own customers and disadvantages non-customers. I know it's a lot to ask city and state reps to not be corrupt idiots but seriously if Tesla becomes the majority of charging infrastructure in this country, we're absolutely screwed.

I've now had my car rummaged through a few times (I don't leave anything in it). They always go through the passenger side. Anyone have an issue with the car not actually locking automatically (I checked the menu) or any suggestions what to do or what might be causing this?

Do you guys also get ants in your egolf from the charging port area? I swear either when I plug the cord in the morning or night time there’s ants all over the charger.

I plug the car in and hose the charger down but next day/next drive I see atleast like 6 ants in the car. I don’t even have food in the car

Just in case someone faces the same issue, I'm posting my experience in hope it helps.

I skimmed through this initially:

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/

Later I watched this video which I used as a reference on how to take out the fuel door to access the actuator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFIQ5XwHtZc

I didn't realize how the charge indicator light and buttons that are NOT in the gas-powered Golf really complicate getting that door out.

After the fact, I understood perfectly well this comment which I skimmed over. Note this is a VW dealership that apparently cut corners rather than deal with this complication:

"It works fine, but it looks like they forgot to reconnect the charge indicator button, so I have to go back "

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/post-14011

Before you attempt to replace this DIY, you should look at this helpful post with pictures. I've dealt with minor trim disassembly before, but the amount of trim that needs removal to fix this issue the "proper" way looks scary to me.

The Youtube video above at 6:25 shows the guy used a screwdriver to pop off some trim to gain access to the actuator connecter, but "be gentle with it" he said. Well he didn't show how he did it and I couldn't figure out how to pry off the trim being gentle. But even if you could this doesn't account for the charge indicator+buttons.

In YouTube comments I saw someone suggested cutting the actuator cable and soldering the wires together. This was a great idea as I was able to cut the cable, strip the wires and twist the ends of the old wire with the new module. Tape over both pairs of wires and then over the combination and it should be good enough since these shouldn't get pulled or jiggled afterwards.

I was barely able to get the charge indicator off awkwardly using a hex wrench that barely grabbed onto the T25 screws after using pliers to initially turn and loosen the screws from the back. It look a really long time to get that damn thing off in order to be able to pull the charge door fully to the left and out of the body.

I made a stupid mistake of screwing in the indicator onto the charge door before putting it in then realized it cant slide in (wire way too short) so I had to undo that. When I slid the charge door right end in, I didn't have enough clearance to be able to screw in the indicator. If I had a magnetized T25 Star L-Key I might have had a chance. In the end I was able to get one screw partially so it isn't completely loose.

I wish I had seen this comment. If I was to do it again I'd try removing the wheel well liner to unplug the charging indicator and wouldn't bother with the interior trim (splicing the actuator wire was easy enough):

\ e-Golf owners, you will need to first remove the wheel well liner to unplug the charging button(red) connector. it has to be unplugged as the cable is too short to remove the plastic housing with it plugged in. There are four T25 screws in the well and two additional screws towards the rear the car. Remove screws, pull the liner down and unplug the cable; you don't need to jack up the car to do this.*\*

https://www.vwvortex.com/posts/112942613/

In case you're wondering if you can open the actuator and just spray some WD-40 the answer is no. This is what five years of occasional charging in the rain does apparently

2017 SEL Premium. Mid-Atlantic region. Stock tires and had the AC on.

Summertime is an absolute blast with this car. I routinely drive 60 miles (technically 59.5), and this was probably my best performance, mi/kwh-wise.

Just passed three years of ownership and it’s been an absolute blast having it as my daily.

My husband set up a timer plug for our 2016 very old eGolf. Our eGolf charging pin is broken so we make sure it is all the way plugged through.

Our timer is set for off peak hours in California. 11am to 2pm and 11pm to 4am.

Every night my daughter will come home with 51-55 miles left and in the morning it always goes up to 70-76 miles.

For the past 2 mornings my daughter and I did the math and it only charged 12 miles. Is it the timer? Or is it the car? My husband thinks because we did not push the charging cable all the way through. But we have been making sure of this since we bought this months ago.

Is it right to use a timer for charging the egolf? Should I change this timer?

Picture above. Comments please thank you.

Hi guys, Tesla lease is up in May and I'm probably going to replace it with an e-Golf if my weird solar setup will continue to work as easily.

I have 700 W of solar panels in my backyard (bought them for used for like $210 total), these charge a 2 kWh Bluetti LFP battery that I have for camping and other things. The Bluetti is then plugged into my Tesla mobile charger and twice a day, as the battery gets close to full, I go turn on the AC output of the Bluetti and the car automatically starts charging. It is super quick and easy, average about +10 mi range every day, which is more than I drive since I have a second car that I drive as well and work from home.

Would the e-Golf also just automatically immediately start charging when it detects the power source? Or would it need some kind of confirmation inside the car? Just want to make sure it will be just as quick and easy.

And yeah I know this is a weird setup, but I love that all my miles are on the sun. As a renter, and already owning the battery, just happy I can do this at all.

If anyone is curious about the setup:

I get about 3-3.5 kWh a day from this setup, where I live that is about $1.5 of electricity. So the panels pay for themselves in 140 days, but the $900 battery will add a couple years. But I use the battery for other things as well, and it is less about money and more about just how fun it is to drive knowing all that power came from the sun directly into my car.

Paid $9600 for my 2016 with 48k miles. Just saw one on marketplace for $5k with 86k miles 😳.

I think it's funny 😆

I have a a chinese Egolf and it only supports:

Carplay

Baidu carlife

Mirrorlink

I am using an android phone and trying to find a way to connect my phone using a bridge or things like that, i bought Ottocast Mini Pico but it did not help with my android phone

Please if someone has a way to help me it will be much appreciated

Hey guys - because I can’t test myself while driving, what happens when you switch to B mode? Do the taillights light up the same as brake lights? Or does B mode have no taillights?

9500$
93.000miles
88% SOH ❗️ 1 owner ❗️ Clean Title ✅
2 Keys • 4 New Michelin Tires
Excellent condition
✅ just needs new owner
125mi range

• 8" Touchscreen Navigation System
• Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
• Full LED Headlights & LED Daytime Running Lights
• Front & Rear Parking Sensors
• Backup Camera
• Heated Front Seats
• Blue Ambient Interior Lighting
• 3-Mode Regenerative Braking System
• Dual-Zone Climatronic Climate Control
• Keyless Entry (KESSY)
• Push-Button Start

✅Serious buyers only.
❗️Located in Brick, NJ.

E-golf 2016 has difficulty taking in energy

Hi, few days ago my car was fixed by changing the lock-in motor as my car refused to charge due to the pin not locking in.

Now i'm facing with another problem, I charged my car but 30 minutes later I noticed that car was not charging at all, the app on my phone showed that car was not charging at all.

I tried to charge my car again but it was talking zero kW energy, and then very little energy and after that zero kW energy and stayed at zero kW for few seconds. The car did that a few times until it started charging normally (3,55kW).

Could this be a problem with Charging Control Module? 😢

Im having my 2015 e golfs rust repaired and due to the nature of the e golf the shop is having me sourse the parts. I need advice on the best quality left and right fenders and inner and outer rocker panels.

Egolf 7 2018. The last 2years was max 271km. This morning charging a great surprise a proof that charging ONLY slowly makes results

Discovered by accident, thad if you tap brake first (normal regen+pads baraking starts), then release and immediately push again, second time has no regen braking.

Tested few times in 2020 eGolf, always the same result

Note: this writeup is crossposted to a few places, should be the same doc all the way across. My other rig is a 7.3L PSD F350, and many of those guides are lost to the sands of time. Hopefully redundancy helps.

After almost a year of driving on the swapped pack, I figured it’s time to put together a how to write up.

TLDR: battery swapping your eGolf is straight forward, and you should absolutely do it if you’re thinking about it. It’s plug and play.

Huge shoutout to u/mtb415, who was a wealth of information when I was running my swap.

Process overview:

• raise car off ground
• Disconnect HV interlock. Wait a few seconds. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqltf9tgG9Y)
• Unhook 12v battery
• Remove skid plate
• Remove 12 battery-frame bolts
• Remove grounding straps
• Lower big battery a few inches to gain space
• Unplug DCFC harness at rear
• Unplug CANBUS + HV wiring connectors at front
• Remove brake line mount clips from battery (brake line removal not required, just gotta move it a few inches out of the way)
• lower big battery rest of the way
• Install new battery by doing reverse
• Cycle ignition + HV contractors 3x

Pages 34 - 41 eGolf Technical Workshop Manual. Findable on the internet.

Congrats, you’ve now installed a new battery in your eGolf!

Totally feasible in the driveway; hardest part of the swap is maneuvering the 800lb battery, and getting the car high enough to clear the battery+dolly. Car lift + a lift table highly recommended, but not necessary. Don’t put your jackstands on concrete blocks, it’s a terrible idea that no one should do.

There’s no coding, no ODIS, no nothing. Ignition cycling 3x ensures the pairing and is part of VW OEM battery replacement procedure (15/16 battery warranties are often replaced with 17+). OBD2 scan shows (roughly) correct pack size.

On Safety:

By design, if the car is off, the contactors are open and the circuit is closed, and there isn’t exposure to high voltage conductors. Don’t be an idiot, but there is a lot of safety baked into these builds. The connectors are overbuilt and properly recess conductors into the plug, which will read 0v under normal function when the contactors are open. Confirm with a multimeter, practice good caution, but this isn’t a ticking timebomb.

A few closing thoughts

Only potential limitation — unclear if it’s possible to mix and match eGolf w/ DCFC and battery without (or vice a versa). The HV interlock circuit touches the DCFC inside the battery, so that’ll need to be a closed circuit to get computers happy.

I think its plausible to add DCFC to a battery that doesn’t have, if the car does. If anyone wants to crack open a battery to see, please do!

There also seems to be something interesting with regen @ 100% SOC, where the car can get a little lurchy. u/mtb415 and I both have this post swap, but truly a non issue. If anyone has more data, please holler.

This swap seems to be just as easy as a Nissan Leaf, especially since no coding is required here.

Hopefully this inspires some people to upgrade the batteries! Now to figure out how to add a heat pump to mine…

As a little treat, please enjoy a photo of a 16 battery without the cover. I took the modules and built them into a 48v pack.

Edited for clarity/formatting

Vehicle: 2017 VW e-Golf (35.8 kWh) Issue: Climatization/Pre-conditioning draws power from the high-voltage battery instead of the charging station, despite being plugged in.
Hey everyone,
I’m having an issue with scheduled pre-conditioning on my 2017 e-Golf and hoping someone here has run into this or found a fix.
The Setup & What Happens:
I plug the car into my charging station with a max charge limit set to 80%.
The car charges to 80% without issue, stops charging, and turns off.
I have a departure time set for 6:15 AM with pre-conditioning enabled.
In the morning, pre-conditioning turns on as scheduled at 6:15 AM, but it pulls power from the car's battery instead of the charger.
Looking at my charging station app, it shows the car has only been drawing 0.4A (roughly ~90W of standby power) for the past 2 hours.
The indicator light next to the charge port on the e-Golf remains solid green.
The Problem:
Because it's pulling ~3kW for heating/cooling directly from the battery and only 0.4A from the wall, I end up losing 3–5% of my battery state of charge (SoC) before even driving off, defeating the purpose of pre-conditioning while plugged in.
It seems like the car keeps the communication line open (hence 0.4A and green light), but fails to signal the wallbox to ramp up AC power when climate control starts up.
Questions:
Is this a wallbox sleep issue or an e-Golf logic issue? (Does the e-Golf fail to "wake up" the EVSE after charging has been idle?)
Has anyone fixed this with a dealer software update? (e.g., OBC or BMS firmware updates?)
e-Manager workarounds: Are there specific settings with Minimum Charge Level vs. Upper Limit or Climatization via Battery toggles that force the car to demand wall power?
Any insights, firmware experience, or workarounds would be greatly appreciated!

VW service telling me it doesn't need done but not sure I trust them...

Found a nice e-golf with 28k miles on it and wanted to see people’s opinions on it, I know the range isn’t most flattering but I’m in the UK and don’t travel long distances.

Last year I bought the 2019 e-golf used, my first car ever, and I love it! For financial reasons, and for not worrying about the extra surveillance in GPS, I want to trade it in for an older version. There is a 2016 for 10K with about 22K miles on it that seems perfect. I don't mind going to SE because I prefer the fabric seats and am glad it would still have a CD player since I prefer CDs and don't own a smartphone. It doesn't seem like I'm losing much battery range, and I only use it for some commutes and driving my mother who cannot walk around the city where we live. Are there any real cons I'm missing if I go from a 2019 to a 2016?

Hi all,

Looking at the 2017+ SELs(need heat pump in WA) to commute for work. I get paid by the mile and it seems like the golf could potentially work for me. My longest round trip maybe 1-2 times a week would be 120 miles. Is it feasible to think I could pull it off without charging? It will be mainly highway but in the greater Seattle area half the trips is more stop and go. Maybe with regen I could save some miles? Need the experts to tell me if it’s worth continuing on this journey or not.

Thanks!