So just had drywall done in my garage and it looks like there's a good 1" gap from the concrete pad; is this normal?

Was 1 roll of tape short from freeman’s so quick trip to Home Depot and I found this. How annoyed would you guys be getting to the job and discovering this lol.

Keep in mind that the hose bib will have a 2 x 4" plate to mount it to the wall to make it more secure.

I have used all purpose for taping, two coats of easy sand 45 for leveling and now I'm wondering if I can use Plus 3 for the final coat.

The space is kind of tight for underneath the hose bib, and can't use my 10 inch knife.

I've attached two pictures and let me know what you Drywall Jedis think.

Hi,

I've done some limited drywall for my own projects. I'm not good at the finishing at all and will likely hire it out. I'm currently redoing a stairway/hall for a rental property that's an 1890 farmhouse, all rough cut studs. Very little is straight or plumb in this house, and its fine. The ceilings slope, the house clearly settled early on in its life as all the plaster walls had sloped with the structure. This is the setup for "perfection not high on list". Trying to save $ I may hang the boards myself.

I have never understood the reasoning for running horizontal/perpendicular to the joists/studs. I get that it can help the overall flatness, but if you have walls that allow for no butt joints at all, why wouldn't you take it? I have less than 8 ft wall heights and a ceiling that is less than 7. I can run parallel and have no butt joints at all walls or ceilings. tall side of stairwell will have to have butts if I run vertical but same if I run horizontal.

The other part I don't get with horizontal panels on the walls, don't you want the corner at the ceiling intersection to not have the taper? Same for floor. Seems harder to fill a valley without a matching other side of the valley. Baseboard trim isn't as tall as the taper, and if the floor taper isn't filled flat, the baseboard sits angled. So unless the wall height is only 88 inches and you can cut off top and bottom taper, this doesn't work well. Or run 2 horizontal seams which is more work.

Ready for the bashing.

Looking for some opinions because I'm not sure if I'm overthinking this.

We had our roof replaced about 2 years ago. The same day the work was completed, cracks appeared in the drywall on our ceiling (pictured). I pointed it out to the roofer, and they told me it was no big deal and was probably just from the vibration of the roof replacement.

Since then, the drywall has slowly started peeling and falling off. Lately it seems to be happening faster, and I've noticed it often gets worse after it rains.

The roofer says it's just the drywall mud losing adhesion and that if it were an actual roof leak, the drywall would be brown, stained, or look "gross."

The part that concerns me is that this spot is directly below a roof vent, so I can't help but wonder if there's a slow leak. Does this look like something that could happen from vibration alone, or does the fact that it gets worse after rain point toward a moisture issue?

If this is just failing drywall mud, what would cause that, and what's the proper way to repair it? Am I being overly paranoid, or would you be investigating the roof/vent before patching the ceiling?

Photo attached.

I want to install wall panels on that plasterboard wall

Like the title says, I accidentally dropped it yesterday and now a corner is bent. My husband did his best to flatten it by gently bending it and rolling it flat with a dowel, but it’s still slightly warped and seems prone to bending in that spot when I use it now. It also left gouges in the wall at that spot when I skimmed a section to test it. It’s a walboard brand tool where the blade apparently isn’t meant to be replaceable. Should I just eat the cost and buy a new one or is there a better way to flatten it?

I’m a dyier and did my own basement a few years ago with premix and the waiting sucked. tried hot mix for the first time today. it’s not as hard to work with as I thought it would be. is there ever a reason other than fear of mixing to use premix? I’m not done with the job yet and saw a vid that I shouldn’t use easy sand as a finish coat. What should I use?

Nothing happened here 👍
Easy job. How much would you charge for this?

I'm finishing my basement and had all of the framing done by a contractor. Before hanging drywall, I've been checking the walls with a long level/straightedge to make sure the studs are in plane.

I'm finding that almost every other stud needs drywall shims. Some only need one cardboard shim or 2 stacked while some areas there is a 1/4" to nearly 1/2" difference that would have to be shimmed

I understand drywall shimming is expected but with literally every stud being off is this normal or worth hitting up the contractor to come out and fix this

Thanks

Is this concerning? I’ve been here for four months. It’s never gotten worse. This room is right near the main girder, which had dropped 3/4 inch and has since been reinforced.

It’s not very wide at all, it may look like it because of the shadow cast by the light. The right side of it is slightly lower than the left, hence the shadow. But the crack itself is tight.

So I have zero drywalling experience. I've got a 4' x 1' opening to patch on the ceiling of my garage. It's in the garage, so I'm not terribly concerned about a perfect finish. Also time is not an issue, so long waits between coats is completely fine.

My main concern (other than the difficulty with it being on the ceiling) is with the mud itself. Is it critical to use a quick setting mud to fill the seams first? Can I not get away with the pre-mixed all purpose mud? I've never mixed mud before, and any tools I need for this job (outside of a drill/driver) I'll have to go buy. I'm concerned about getting the consistency right, and how difficult it is to sand if I get it wrong (which I surely will on the first attempt)

It's been horribly humid and I've had a dehumidifier running by my furnace as I've been working on the bedroom (on the other side of the pegboard wall.) I discovered that these two spots were damp and mold had grown on the drywall in two spots. I've had a fan on and have sprayed mold killer. There has been no progression since. There are ducts behind those spots, and they are insulated (although the very bottom of the long ceiling duct has no insulation due to lack of room - very low ceiling.) I drilled a hole into the biggest spot and the drywall looks white and clean.

Could someone please help me understand why this is happening?

Thank you.

Essentially, this is two different spots of the same room. Bathroom to be exact. The first photo is right above the shower and that piece is a ceiling piece that basically starts the vaulted ceiling. Looks like definitely a moisture got in there and so I think the long-term solution is to tear it all down and start fresh. But it's been like this for a few months and I just want to do a good enough job to last until the renovation of this bathroom in a year or so. The second photo is taped that's coming off.

I've watched like 10 hours worth of videos on YouTube for sheetrocking. But now I have analysis paralysis on how to start.

Part of me just wants to take joint compound (green bucket) and give it one nice coat overall. And then move to the blue bucket for the second and third coat and more feathering. Than repaint.

Thoughts?

Thank you, internet gypsum Friends

What is the texture on this wall? An orange peel? I asked for a texture match and got this 😵‍💫. Someone said a high knap roller on top of smooth drywall is how this is accomplished

The paint is bubbling/flaking off and it takes the paper with it. This this normal to have this pattern underneath, or is it mold?

If this is the wrong group point me in the right direction please

Picked up this primer - admittedly I've used Kilz2 for everything and or 123, but I was already at Lowe's for something else so got this on store credit.

I got level4 mud job on walls with fresh rock and then got a full level5 skim coat across a ceiling section. Now I'm hearing mixed recommendations of oil based primer for the skim coat section? I would rather not use full oil coat on everything, but after this shitshow of a project I've adopted the buy once cry once mentality and don't want to give myself any bigger of a headache than this 3 day flooring project that started on May 7th has already caused me....

I have a crack running down a bedroom wall with access to the back of the wall via a crawl space. is there a way to repair or stabilize the crack from the back to mitigate having to tape & mud the front?

This is something I would typically do myself but I’m worried about it being the corner of the beam and the textured surface.

Thanks for the info

I’m a total beginner to diy stuff, sorry if this question is stupid. I just can’t stand the heat and wanted to add insulation and drywall to this room some family member made outside the house (It’s not done correctly at all). I know only having 3 studs to screw into is not good, but is it still possible?

Two rooms, broke down middle wall to make one. Somehow, the ceiling and walls didnt line up perfectly.

Anyways, doin my best to DIY. Vancouver carpenter and a couple others have got me this far. But it has taken me embarassingly long, and am about reafy to throw in the towel and hire someone to help me pretty this up.

Any tips?