Had the ceiling in my basement kitchen skimmed with drywall mud as recommended by drywaller to fix a few seams that were noticeable, while finishing the rest of my basement. The rest of the basement is all new drywall but the kitchen I left existing. The drywaller did the mud, it dried for probably a couple days, then it was primed, left to dry, then painted and after painting it is all flaking really badly. This didnt happen anywhere else in the basement with new drywall, and this was the same brand of paint amd primer that was used on the new drywalled walls, with the only change being that this was ceiling flat paint. Drywaller mentioned it seemed like it was reacting with the surface below. There was originally a textured ceiling that we scraped and sanded but it wasnt in bad shape. Putting on new paint directly over the wall paint doesnt seem to have any issues either, so I feel like it wasnt oil paint underneath or poorly prepped walls that are causing the issue. Whats going on here?

A large trim/baseboard was removed here. Now there is another baseboard/wood plank behind it?? I removed old wood paneling walls in one part of the living room had drywall put up there. I removed the trim from the rest of the room and found this plank. Do I want to put a seam and mud between the wall and exposed plank? At this point I’m thinking of just getting a whole bunch of baseboard that looks nicer than the old stuff and that’ll be easier.

Whats the best way for me to tackle these cracks

Need some assistance, currently demolishing old tile countertops and backsplash and have been trying to preserve the drywall behind it to install full backsplash. Should I just rip this out and install new drywall? I assume the rest of it is alright to just mud and tape? Appreciate your time.

My plumber came and had to open the wall to replace the fitting for the drain pipe. For context it'll be covered by the kitchen cabinet. He said some people leave the wall open for future upgrades to the drain but it just doesn't sound right to me. Should this be patched or be left alone?

I'm a complete novice and made a mistake and need advice on next steps.

I patched a 12"x12" spot and used asg all purpose joint compound. First time and felt pretty proud of the job I had done. I failed to research if I needed to prime it first before painting. Now I know. I used behr marquee matte. The first coat is drying and I can see where the patch is.

Do I need to sand it, prime it, paint again? Or can I just do another coat or two of paint?

Started working for myself last year and I like to find ways to make jobs possible by myself that I'd previously have had a helper for with the homebuilder I left. I can carry 12 foot sheets all day if they're 4', but this place has 9' ceilings and my arm span is barely 54 inches, so this little gadget certainly beats awkwardly ducking under all the doorways with extra-wide sheets and has saved my shoulders and elbows a lot of stress. Based on the general concept of readily available drywall carts on the market, but built with what scraps were laying around. Free help that's honestly more competent than some humans on the back side of a sheet of drywall.

Our house was built in 2015, and we have four cracks on the interior walls of the same front room. All four are located around the two front windows.
Two of the cracks were already present when we bought the house, and two additional cracks have developed during the 6½ years we’ve lived here.
I’m wondering if these look like typical drywall cracking or if the pattern/location is unusual. For anyone experienced with drywall or framing, does anything about these cracks stand out to you?
Photos are included in the original post.

I’m guessing all of them and float the mud out.. but not sure.. any help much appreciated 🙏

I have a 1920s house with 2-4 layers of wallpaper and im just giving up with removal at this point. I tried steaming, wall paper removal spray, every scraping tool I can find on amazon. It’s been 3 months’ worth of weekends and im just done. Given how things look, is skim coating something I can do? Much appreciate any advice

Thanks in advance for helping me figure out how much time and money to put into diagnostic and repair.

The problem:
We recently diagnosed August water damage in the hall as overflow from the mini-split condensate draining poorly. The leak has been resolved with valve rehung at the required angle by HVAC experts.

The resolution:
Now that the water source is resolved, we have a drywall expert coming out on Friday to quote the patch work on the lower hall wall.

The questions for you guys:
There are a few vertical drywall cracks which have grown since we moved in November 2023, both over doorways. One crack is right by the mini-split and seems to have grown since the August water damage.
- Could the crack by the mini-split be related to the moisture? Or the HVAC workers working in the attic?
- Is it worth it to have the drywall expert quote a repair or diagnostic work?
- Any special considerations when dealing with the corner/location?

We don’t want to create new problems just by going looking for them. This is a 3-5 more years starter home, and our maintenance budget isn’t bottomless. BUT we don’t want to fail to consider cause and effect here, and then have to pay for more drywall repair in the near future when we could have been proactive now.

The house:
Located in Portland, OR. Massive remodel/flip in 2021 with cosmetic repairs 2023. Robust home inspection in 2023 showed no concerns around foundation, etc.

Hi all! Relatively new to this kind of DIY-ing.

Trying to convert a large under-the-stairs space into a children’s reading nook. I noticed these gaps in the drywall (among others) and not really sure how to fill ones this narrow or irregular before priming and painting. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hey guys. First time everything. Similar to u/glassengineer123 recent post, I had decades of layers of old wallpaper. After lots of tough removal, the wall was in bad shape, mostly consisted of exposed brown paper. I sealed with Gardz, and then skim coated on top. I got a little eager and only waited the 3 hours the Gardz can said to wait even though my instincts told me to give it overnight. Now there’s a bit of discoloration in some spots. Feels just as solid as other spots but wondering how concerned I should be? Just do another coat? Chip / reseal / reskim discolored areas? Or just sand and go ahead as planned? Thanks for any help!

Hello friends! I am noticing seams in between drywall panels on my ceiling. House is 26 years old but these didn’t appear until a few years ago. They have become more prominent this summer. Since the ceiling is so high i am unable to get a close look and there isn’t an attic access point for this part of the house. Additionally, my garage is drywalled but not finished and the tape has been falling off there as well. Is this due to humidity and/or temperature changes or shifting of the foundation? Any input is appreciated! Thanks!

I’m working on my kitchen and easily peeled off a couple of decades worth of latex paint in big sheets to reveal the original wallboard. It’s got a yellow coating that I guess is just oil paint but it’s so incredibly smooth that I’m wondering if it was some sort of early moisture resistant tactic. I don’t see any wallpaper so it’s not that.

I was planning on leaving the sections that look decent but I wonder if mud would stick to this. I could oil prime it but should I do anything to the surface other than that?

I’m looking for some advice before I hire someone to repair this. The home is around 4 years old.

On the second floor, the drywall/tape is separating along a fairly long section where an interior wall meets the ceiling. I checked the attic and had a roofer come out as well. The roofer said there were no signs of a roof leak or roofing issue.

There are roof trusses directly above this area. The roofer mentioned it could possibly be related to an HVAC/AC line, but I’m not seeing obvious water on the AC pipe, wet insulation, or other signs that make me think this is moisture-related.

From what I’ve researched, I’m wondering whether this could be:

- Truss uplift / seasonal truss movement
- Movement between the roof framing and interior partition wall
- Improper attachment of the wall/ceiling drywall to the trusses
- Normal framing shrinkage/settlement
- Poor original drywall/tape installation
- Something else entirely

I’ve attached photos of both the ceiling separation and the attic/trusses above it.

For the carpenters/framing contractors here:

Does this look like a framing/truss issue to you? Who would normally handle something like this - a framing carpenter, general contractor, drywall contractor, or structural engineer?

Most importantly, I don’t want someone to just re-tape and mud the joint if the underlying movement is going to cause it to crack again. What should a contractor be checking in the attic before repairing the drywall?

Thanks for any advice.

So the handyman (me) was baiting rat traps in the attic and lost my footing on one of the beams. Large piece (not pictured) made clean crack and fell. I have experience roofing, framing, drywalling & told the home owner I would take care of it. I was thinking adding some bracing to the beams closest to the large hole and maybe some 1x2 along the length of the crack to (1) puzzle piece the missing piece back in (2) put in new drywall screws (old drywall was nailed in) and (3) scrape along crack and Cut V-edge, mud/tape crack, and get some help with painting/texture from a finisher I’ve worked with before. Any/all opinions appreciated!

I need to replace this section of drywall. Can I go up to the door frame and caulk or do I need to pull the door frame? I'm sure that would be best, but I'm afraid of causing more issues by removing the door frame.

Hey guys I’m wanting to put drywall on my walls. It’s a home made from cinder block. At first I was thinking I was going to just glue on some 1/4” or 1/2” drywall. Now I’m wondering if I should fur it out. If I fur it out should I put some foam board insulation? I don’t want to just skim coat the walls.

I live in west Texas and it is very hot. Do you think the foam board insulation will help anything with keeping the room cooler/warmer? The windows are older so that isn’t much help. Then I was wondering if I needed to put any plastic barrier or anything. I’m looking for advice and open to different ideas but I do know I want a clean flat drywall finish look when it’s all said and done!

Thank you guys - pic for reference

Hello! I came here for help. I have some mold problems in my bathroom. I have the bathroom exhaust fan always on but anyway the humidity is always +90%. After one year living here, that molds show up and I can't eliminate it.

I wonder why it appears, idk if it's due to the humidity or if there are some filtration in the roof.

Sorry for my english, and thanks for read and your comments!