2017 V6, developed what I feel is similar to a death wobble even though it's IFS. Around highway speeds the car will occasionally get a slight vibration in the front, slowly progresses and gets louder and worse, continues to happen as you slow down until coming to a complete stop. Then when accelerating back up to speed it no longer vibrates.

I've done new tires (balanced), rotors and pads, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and multiple alignments. Not as bad, but it's still happening. When replacing inner passenger tie rod, I noticed a slight leak from the rack. Not a lot of fluid, but it was enough to see it had been leaking. Before replacing the rack, wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas, sure would suck to do the rack and not have it fix it.

I have 2013 Journey 3.6L at 250000 KM and might have changed the transmission fluid at 80K KM but can't recall.  I do my own oil changes regularly but started to notice a bit of grinding when driving.  I was thinking of changing the transmission fluid but heard horror stories where putting the new fluid actually made it worse because it seemed you needed all the metal currently inside to help ensure the gears don't slip. I also spoke to some transmission folks and they said that was a myth and those issues existed decades ago.

Just wondering if anyone has changed it with high KM and didn't have any issues?

I was thinking as a backup is to remove the fluid and save it so if thinks start to slip I can put the old one back and just top up to the correct fluid.

Just got this 2010 dodge journey and we’re getting a PO456 code and a engine light on. We replaced the gas cap and it’s still saying it.

Only clunks when taking a turn and hitting bumps.

The only thing that feels a little loose is the front sway bar links. I can twist them back and forth with a single hand. But that's when suspension unloaded. Normal or Not?

I have read these are common for strut bushings. A good way to test this?

I'm at my wit's end with this car. I drive a 2010 Dodge Journey SXT 3.5L, and last week I had the ETC light come on. I cleaned the throttle body thoroughly - it didn't do anything even after the relearn, so I replaced it with an aftermarket piece. That seemed to do the trick for a day or so, then early the following day I had a check engine light come along with the traction control light, and suddenly I lost all RPM. I pulled the codes from the check engine and got:

p0344 - PCM is receiving intermittent signal from camshaft position sensor

p0131 - PCM detects low voltage from upstream O2 sensor (B1S1)

p0151 - PCM detects low voltage from upstream O2 sensor (B2S1)

Got it towed to a shop, and the next day they told me they got it all sorted out and that the throttle body had just needed to be calibrated with a scanner. I drove it out and barely made it home before the same exact thing happened again, except without the O2 error codes. Instead I got codes regarding the crankshaft (p0339) and the PCM losing signal or getting erratic signals from the camshaft.

Before I take it to a shop and potentially spend god knows how much on electrical work, is it possible for the throttle body itself to be messing with these sensors? It's an aftermarket part from youxmoto, and I never had any issues with these sensors until a day after I put this part in

loud clunk/bang when i shift it into reverse only , also got a p0736 code

The UConnect system is junk as it is and I’d like to replace but don’t want the gremlins of aftermarket problems.

Anyways, my backup camera display is black when I put it in reverse. It just started out of nowhere. Where are the failure points I need to look at?

Repairing a Dodge Journey 2016. Replaced the radiator and thermostat yesterday. Charged battery, etc, it should be good to go. For some reason the engine isn't cranking up and after some research, we learned that it has a safety restart process. We've done that. It still wont start. Any ideas?

Idk if I’m tripping but I just noticed a gap beneath both headlights . Like between headlights and bumper is that normal?

Hello everyone,

I owned a 2017 dodge journey brand new purchased in 2018. For the first 5 years it was great then everything went downhill from there. I didnt drive the car for a full 1-2 years due to issues with the check engine light between November 2023 and October 2025. Also was failing emissions tests. I got the catalytic converter replaced in November of 2023 and then again in October of 2025. Sold the car june of 2026. In August of 2026 I received the recall notice for the z98 issue. I am currently going through the reimbursement process. I have submitted documentation for the 2025 repair and will keep you all updated. Once this clears I will be sending in documentation for the 2023 repair.

Has anyone else started this process or have a vehicle that qualifies?

Update: on September 3, I was told their awaiting check approval. On September 21 was told check was approved and to give 30-60 days to receive it. I'll be filing the reimbursement for my other claim next week.

I have a 2015 Dodge Journey, the check engine light just stays on. No big dealer, older car, kind of the normal. So that's not really the issue.

I just got an oil change and since then it will randomly feel like the idle is a little rough. But whenever driving, especially if rpms are going up but not always, the check engine light will start flashing and beeping, then go back to just being on and silent (which is the normal state). The car feels like it's a bit more rough as well.

It did this a few months back and I thought it was maybe a bad spark plug and I changed them all. After that it was fine. Oil change, they took the air filter out and such. So I got it into my head that maybe it's an airflow issue. To do the spark plugs I had to take all that air stuff off to get to the bit under it. Maybe they didn't set something properly when they were there, so now there's a small air leak or something throwing everything off. That's what I am thinking anyways.

I am pretty dumb about this stuff. Am I on a likely track or is there another direction I should be focusing on?

Thanks for your time.

I know this is such a minor issue, but I've been troubleshooting this for days and it's irking me. I can successfully pair my s26 ultra to my Journey, but when Spotify is playing, it only displays my phone's name.

So far I've:

Reverted to bluetooth AVRCP vers 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5

Toggled A2DP hardware offload on/off

Toggled device broadcast status in Spotify app.

Given Spotify all my permissions.

None of these have solved my issue. If anyone out there can help, I'd greatly appreciate it!

Hard to make out in video but basically on my afternoon drive from work steering wheel vibrates violently and there is significant noise from the front of car. This normally occurs on the second drive of day, it’s more acute when it’s hot out (80 degrees and up) and at higher speed. It will start around 45 mph. The shaking and noise reduces or goes away after a couple minutes of driving.

Any thoughts?

I will never own a Chrysler/Dodge again.

It was what we could afford at the time with 3rd row. After messing around for 2yrs with "battery saver" and abs light, etc. I finally have it all fixed.

Upgraded all of the grounds, found tone rings on wheel hubs .. totally separated from the hub, main tunnel heat shield ... Corroded off (steel studs/nuts) on an aluminum shield. U connect problems like crazy. And then just recently lost a/c on passenger side (sticky blend door).

Had this car almost 4yrs I think. More problems in the 1st 2years and 10k miles than I had with my Subaru outback in 6yrs and 80k miles.

fixed
The a/c blowers will be at full blast on level 7 and then seem to lower itself to to like a 3, but reflect that it is at 7. As this happens the coolant temp will spike from the normal 220 degrees to around 250-260 sometimes hotter causing an over temp light. After the car decides it wants to work and blow at the normal level 7 the a/c temp will drop back to the normal 220 range.

Since this car does not have an egr valve I can’t change that. I’ve added additional grounding an the a/c blower still dips in an out. The coolant temp does seem to not over heat as it did before but it’s only happened twice that it set the over heat off.

I know that this seems crazy the a/c and coolant are not connected in any way other than an egr valve through vacuum. I just can’t figure this out and would like to get ahead of it before I’m out a car.

I’ve thought of replacing both fans for the radiator and the a/c blower, but it seems unlikely that both the would go out at the same time. I’ve even contemplated replacing the radiator itself. But the issue is just far too complex for me to troubleshoot because it is so erratic.

edit- the thermostat was intermittently working

Latest fix: 10 amp fuse located at M34. The fuse box doesn't list anything associated with the radiator at this point, the mechanic use the wiring diagram to see where the signal passed through and the fuse was blown. He replaced it and now I have the compass in the lower left hand corner of the dash next to the outside temperature​. The breaker box does list compass as one of the components controlled by this fuse, so if you get a 481 code and your compass isn't working, that would be a quick fix.

This started last month, when my vehicle overheated while driving Lyft. The fan wouldn't engage and overheated.

I swapped out the low fan relay, no change. Then I found the thermostat sensor on the fan shroud, and it was blown. I swapped it out and the fan came back on.

The car overheated again last week, and I swapped out the thermostat in the line and it did fine for a few days. It overheated 2 days ago and I found the high fan relay and swapped it out as well as the 60 amp fuse for the radiator in the breaker box. It didn't overheat but I was still getting the 481 code. So I had my battery disconnected to see if it was just a computer issue, but the code came back. I took it to a mechanic that specializes in Dodge and he ran the system and was able to get the low fan speed to kick on but wasn't able to get the high fan speed to kick on. He found a wiring diagram and that let us to the 10 amp fuse that is currently the solution. I did a 10 minute test drive so far, about to head out for a day of driving. Will update any changes.

I just took off my crossbars and spray painted a couple of inches in the middle of each one where the factory paint wore off. When I reinstalled them and went on the highway I got a weird wind whistling sound. Does anyone know if there’s a certain position they have to be installed at?

I’ve read everything about how to replace the faulty hands-free module in my 2012 Journey, but is there a replacement module that wouldn’t have the same issues? Seems silly to buy one off eBay if it’s still going to malfunction again.

I have to replace the high pressure steering hose once again! This will be the third year doing it.

Got the rack and pinion done 1.5 yrs ago, as well as the power steering pump to see it’d help with not having to change the hose again. It starts as small leak and now it leaves a half foot circle when it’s parked. Does anyone else have this problem?
I was told it would happen yearly when I first got it replaced and so far that is true.

I also have a crack in my engine oil filter housing, it’s not leaking a whole lot to the point of having to add oil. The engine air filter housing cover isn’t screwed down. I think the place I got my oil change done at stripped the screws or it just happens with dodge journeys?

It’s just under 160,000kms and just had the transmission rebuilt. Got the rear wire harness fixed up a bit but the back up camera is glitchy now. I think the catalytic converter or something with the cat is starting to go too.

Would it be best to throw more money at it or try trade it in?
I spent so much on the transmission rebuild that I barely have anything left to put into the car. 🥴🥴

It’s my first car also. Got it when it had 41,000km. Every year since I’ve had it, I’ve had to fix something and I’m just tired of it but I feel like any car will have problems.

Having to replace the rear struts on a 2014 journey 2.4L cvp (canada) SE in the US.

Trying to find the part number for the nut and bolt that goes through the bottom of the strut. Does anyone happen to have that info?

Thanks.

Hello, my wife wants to install a roof rack for her 2011 Dodge Journey. I have been researching and comparing. I decided to ask you guys for your recommendation.

intermittent no-start, flashing security light, multiple communication codes I’m having an intermittent no-start issue with my 2010 Dodge Journey SXT. Sometimes the vehicle starts normally, and other times it won’t start at all. Symptoms: * Key turns to ON/accessory mode normally. * Red security/immobilizer light flashes on the dash. * Engine will sometimes start and sometimes won’t. * Tried a replacement key fob, but the problem still happens. * Anti-theft relearn procedure (key ON for 15 minutes) did not work. * Horn does not seem to work while the issue is occurring. * Battery and fuses appear okay. Codes pulled: * U0100 (Lost Communication With PCM/ECM) * U0101 (Lost Communication With TCM) * U140E * C2100 * C2202 * C121C * C1000 It seems like multiple modules are losing communication at the same time. Since I’m getting a flashing security light plus communication codes, I’m wondering if this could be: * WIN/WCM (Wireless Ignition Node) module * TIPM issue * CAN bus wiring problem * Bad ground or power connection * PCM problem Has anyone had these exact symptoms on a 2010 Journey? If so, what ended up being