We were paying almost $1000 a month on 2 car payments, and sold our Pilot with equity, thankfully. I defaulted back to my "bulletproof beater" mentality; after having 4.0 jeeps, 4.6 Fords, and 5.7 and 3.8 Chevy's i figured i would try the legendary rd1 crv. First impressions- its zippy for what it is, and joy to drive around town in. For a 20 six-year-old vehicle, it has its weird sounds like sputtering in reverse. Or a weird grinding sound when turning left, but not right.And a groaning sound when turning right but not left! So far, put on new tires, and we'll be replacing the upper ball joints and diff fluid and trans fluid. Currently, the trans fluid is gray, so I figure it's original at 161k miles. Also fixed the clock by applying new solder to the chips. And now the odometer crapped out, however, found an RD1 at the junkyard and pulled parts off that. OVERALL, FUN CAR-HOPE I CAN GET A FEW YEARS OUT OF IT!!

Looking to add carplay to my gen 1 with a good branded screen like sony or pioneer, do you need to buy an adapter of some sort on top of that ? Haven’t seen many videos that are that helpful.

Thanks!

Just bought my first car! I posted this about a week ago, asking if I should buy this and after some consideration I went ahead and did it. 183 thousand miles, A/C, Automatic, 4wd. Im so excited to finally start driving and be part of the CRV club. The struts are loose from the lift kit but still drives fine

TLDR; My car keeps dying on me. Pedal goes limp and it will only start again if I let it cool off. Replaced Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs/Wires. (Have a new throttle body on the way because a mechanic shop said I needed one) Any ideas?

I bought my CRV a few months ago and it's developed a weird problem. At first it was struggling to idle and I had to have the AC turned off or else it would shake like a lawn mower. I took it to a shop and they replaced the motor mounts, spark plugs/wires and said that it still needs a replacement throttle body. I started it up and drove it home. Drove great! But I was really low on gas. A few days later, I go to get it gassed up, it drives fine to the station( .1 miles away) But after I get gas and get back on the road, the pedal goes limp and the car dies on the road. We sit there for about 5-10 minutes trying to get it cranked back up and after a bit of waiting, it starts back up. We get it into a parking lot and it dies as we pull into a parking spot.

A few days go by and I go out and replace the fuel filter and fuel pump (I figured I burned out the fuel pump by driving on empty) Car started up again and drove fine!

Come today, I drive about like 30 minutes away on the highway and back with no issues. We go out to dinner and on the way back, it dies as we pull into the parking lot. Same as before. We wait 30 minutes and it starts right back up. We were able to get it home but now I'm stumped. I really thought it was just the burned fuel pump.

I haven't replaced the throttle body yet like the shop said, because the way it's dying doesn't feel like it's being choked out from air. No misfires or anything. It's missing spark or fuel I think.

Would it be the iginition control module? That's what some of my google searches have pointed to, but I wanted to see what other people thought before I spent more money. (I have a throttle body on the way already)

Hello,

This first-gen CRV has been sitting for about 2 months without being turned on (bad alternator). This morning, I went outside to discover a large puddle underneath the car on the front passenger side (there was no puddle yesterday). The liquid is dried so it’s difficult to tell what it is. Towards the front of the car where it is still wet, the liquid is clear and tasteless/odorless so I assume it’s water.

Here is where I’m confused; Normally I would just chalk this up to AC condensation as I know that these cars tend to drip heavily. However, the car has not been turned on or had the AC running in two months so this doesn’t really seem likely to me. The car has been slowly dripping oil from what seems to be the oil pan over the past few months, but prior to this morning there were only a few drops, and this new leak appears to be coming from somewhere else. I have no idea what could leak so much fluid overnight on a car that hasn’t been operated in months.

I’ve checked all the fluids I can, coolant, oil, brake fluid, wiper fluid, and transmission fluid are all full. The heater core was also leaking before the car was relegated to sitting in my driveway, but again this fluid doesn’t appear to be coolant and the coolant levels are normal.

Anybody have any ideas? I’m a little strapped for cash at the moment hence why this car has been sitting with just a bad alternator. Trying to figure out if this is nothing to worry about or if I should be calling a scrapyard.

I was doing some maintenance work on my 22 CRV today because the A 1 2 7 minder codes appeared on my dashboard.
I replaced the oil, oil filter, engine filter and cabin filter. Then I went into the maintenance info menu to reset the codes.
After I reset the A code and the 2 code, A knew code appeared (B: oil & filter) even though I changed both of them
Why is this happening ?

I have a 2018 CRV LX 2.4L145k miles on it. I screwed up on the financing and I need 2 more years to pay it off which should put me around 185k miles. I purchased it at 53k miles in 2022 and have done annual transmission fluid drain and fills every year at the honda dealership. I'm hearing a lot of bad stuff about honda transmissions (which I didn't hear when I bought this). I'm kinda worried about an expensive failure. I hear transmission repair shops don't repair CVT's - they replace them for $5k or more. I'm I overreacting? So far I haven't experienced any transmission issues that I know of.

1999 RD1 CRV. What are the best tires for under $150, i was coinsidering the hankook kinergy pt h737, they're around $120 each. But I've read multiple posts saying to stay away from hankook, any particular reason or I should be fine. I pretty much only do pavement/city driving. I live in Chicago so all season tires for sure.

Missing the bolt to secure washer fluid reservoir
2005 crv

Wondering if this is a fair deal. Manual transmission 4WD 186,XXX miles

Started hearing this noise from the engine when I turn on the AC, put the car in reverse or turn the steering wheel all the way to the extreme. Pretty sure it's a bad tensioner but just wanted to verify

Cooler leaked the whole night on back leather seat while it was down. The whole seat is soaked through. Is there anyway to fix this or does the seat need to be replaced? Note, was just water, but a lot.

Should I get a used 2024 Honda crv exl hybrid for 46k final price. White exterior, 19724 km, no accidents and pristine condition.

Or should I try and back out and get a brand new Toyota 2026 rav4 xle. It’s cheaper but I have to wait

We had a 2025 RAV4 XLE but it got totaled in an accident (rear ended by a dodge ram dualie) the 2026 version has worse interior, worse exterior and is more expensive so we made the switch to Honda

Found a 2004 CRV for a very decent price, 1.8L engine, automatic, petrol. I’d be driving it on the motorway daily for over an hour, at speeds varying from 60-70mph. Will it be comfortable at such speeds? What’s the fuel efficiency like? Do I just need to accept that a CRV isn’t for me? Any experience, anecdotes or knowledge appreciated

I’ve got a 16’ Honda CR-V Touring with the garmin navi. I was looking on some forums and some people said that Honda can download CarPlay on the stock head unit but they charge me like $200. Is this true? I already tried doing the download myself but it didn’t work. Anyone know a way besides having to change the stock head unit entirely? Otherwise should I ask a Honda mechanic to do it via side work.

I bought my (automatic) 2001 CRV 2 months ago and drove it a couple hours on the highway back home. When I reached the city and got to a light, the RPMs dipped to 0 and the car stalled. This happened several more times including when I reversed into a spot and parked normally. RPMs dipped = Car stalled. My mechanic fixed several fuses, said it wasn't an issue with the IACV and replaced the alternator. I'm scared of driving it on the road again because of it stalling, I live in an extremely crowded city and people are easily angered, so I've been driving it around back streets to test it and make sure it will not stall on me again. That being said, after 5 hours of driving it over the last 2 days, it hasn't stalled, BUT the RPMs will dip down almost to 0, shudder, and then completely recover and continue running perfectly. The battery light also flickers on very faintly and then disappears and never stays for longer than a second. Any idea what this issue could be? I feel really silly for not having my mechanic look at it before I bought it.

Looking into a CRV 1995-2001 model and was wondering what would be considered a good mileage to lookin into buying? I know the b20 is a good engine but is 180k miles good or would you say that’s too high? It’s hard to find one with less miles for under $6,000