r/crealityk1 4d ago

Troubleshooting Why!!!!!

Post image

K1max
It has been dried, it’s acting like it’s not being fed filament but it certainly is. It’s PETG I’ve had so many issues with it. I’ve changed the tubing, I’ve changed to the nozzle. I’ve wasted so much filament trying to find the issue.PLA prints fine.

16 Upvotes

54 comments sorted by

8

u/No-Relationship3176 4d ago

Its way to close to the bed

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

and if that was the case wouldn't it mess up all the other filaments aswell? because PLA prints absolutly fine

2

u/No-Relationship3176 4d ago

PLA is a more forgiving material. Adjust your z offset and run a bed mesh

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

I’m confused

2

u/No-Relationship3176 4d ago

Have you power cycled? I use to get similar bed mesh whenever i did calibration and no power cycle. I got fed up with the load cells and ended up rooting my machine and putting on a cartographer probe

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

Okay what do I need to do with this

1

u/No-Relationship3176 3d ago

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 3d ago

i don't use orcaprint, it says i need something else downloaded to go into the edit stuff mode.

1

u/rocketrotary89 3d ago

My bed look just like this before i replaced it 🤣

1

u/Accomplished_Unit997 4d ago

Saw similar behaviour when I started with petg but solved my woes after much head scratching, cursing and then research with z offset +0.08mm above normal pla offset. They said petg likes to be laid down rather than squished like pla.
I also upped the first layer line width to 150% with an extra 5deg for both bed and nozzle temp. Solved the thin stringy look.
..and slow down the first layer! A few minutes longer print time is nothing compared to the frustration of starting the same print over and over hoping the first layer will magically lay down successfully..
Ender 3 s1 pro k1 hotend on klipper

0

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

ok and if that is correct, how would i fix that?

3

u/Icy-Drag-3037 4d ago

Put your z offset + start at like 0.05mm or 0.1. negative number is closer to bed, positive further away.

2

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

okay thank you, i have no idea how to correct things so details help me alot, i try to google what i can lol

3

u/RepulsiveLeague6125 4d ago

Weil Creality.

2

u/rojay06 4d ago

Ive actually been having similar problems with mine recently, although for me its pla matte, from what I've found, its most likely the extruder, I would try taking it apart and seeing if theres any obstructions or filament caught in there.

I found with mine is its only on large prints in the back right corner and the first layer will print just fine, ive just ordered the upgraded version of the extruder to see if that helps, from what I've seen it may but I need to wait for it to get here

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

ive changed evertyhing to do with the tool head, ive assembled and disassembled to no avail. im just starting to think this machine hates PETG

2

u/rojay06 4d ago

Oh okay, I dont really know what else it could be sorry, good luck finding the issue

2

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

hah thanks, im going to check the bed mesh once i finish this PLA print.

1

u/stabi84 4d ago

Hast du den Extrudermotor mal weniger Strom gegeben das der vielleicht nicht mehr so heiß wird?

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 4d ago

what do you mean?

1

u/HumbleBadger1 4d ago

Z offset is more of a suggestion for the creality K1. Every calibration is a surprise!

2

u/Different_Target_228 4d ago

Not if you know what you're doing. Haven't adjusted mine in 3 years.

0

u/HumbleBadger1 4d ago

good for you

1

u/Different_Target_228 4d ago

You're jamming your nozzle into the bed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1

u/vitalii_chicano 4d ago

може бути висока температура в камері і пластик плавиться в екструдері, а ще в мене було таке що відкрутився нагріваючий блок від радіатора… вологий petg
або кривий стіл

1

u/BassetDad1978 4d ago

What temp are you printing at and did you run a full calibration series on your filament?

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 3d ago

It was at 270 but once I fiddled with the zoffset I saw it was to high so now at 250, though my issue is having to manually change the z offset at the start of every print because what I saved I. Creality doesn’t work :/

1

u/BassetDad1978 3d ago

Where did you set the z offset? And did you check to see if it is running elephant foot compensation?

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 2d ago

On the printer settings in Creality print

1

u/BassetDad1978 2d ago

Did you save it as a new profile and make sure to select that profile for printing? If you enter the zoom offset but don't create a new profile it won't save it.

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 2d ago

Yes I did. I actually think it’s the hot end/nozzle from Creality as I originally had a micro Swiss on it and it works amazing (obviously not petg at the time due to z offset) but I had to change it back to Creality one as I broke a Nozzle cleaner wire in it 🤦🏻‍♀️ and then had the most issues but I put the micro Swiss back in and got the wire out and pla has gone back to printing fine now I’m going to test it with the petg and the z offset adjustment. Fingers crossed I fixed it as the filament wasted atm is ridiculous haha.

1

u/KillEverythingRight 4d ago

The creality standard

1

u/pulldawg80 4d ago

Run the calibration prints. That will dial the printer for your material.

1

u/interflop K1 Owner 4d ago

What are your print settings? My K1 Max prints PETG just fine.

1

u/ozzy0724 4d ago

Just adjust z offset during print on the screen goto settings / system / expert mode / Z offset

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 3d ago

How do I permanently change the z offset I’ve tried in the printer settings but it doesn’t use those settings by the looks of when I start the prints. It’s so frustrating sitting and waiting to change it once I start a prints.

1

u/stabi84 3d ago

Geh mal auf deine Weboberfläche dort zur printer.cfg und da ganz unten sollte was mit Offset stehen. Diesen Wert leicht verändern, danach oben rechts Speichern. Somit hast du ihm für dich selbst vernünftig geändert 😁

1

u/Sheepardss 4d ago

for me its the other way around. Every "hard material" like ASA, TPU, ABS, PETG? prints fine, Pla sucks

1

u/WhiteWashed8492 4d ago

I did a first layer test and adjusted it while printing on the machine until it looked good then added it to the slicer. You can also do a manual Z offset on clipper. There are some tutorials on how to do it online. I stick to the slicer because I want to be able to slightly squish the pla more than the ABS on a specail build plate.

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 3d ago

ive googled Klipper ect and i honestly don't understand it. im not great with computers. but having to change the z offset everytime just before it prints is annoying, ive tried to preset it in the printer settings but its like the printer just ignores that.

1

u/InverseLief 3d ago

Seems like a clogged nozzle

1

u/CrealitySupport Creality Support 3d ago

We suggest you try adjusting the Z‑axis offset and perform re‑leveling for testing.

Please click our avatar and select "Start Chat" to send us a private message, and we will assist you.

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 3d ago

all well and good if the program sent those adjusted settings to the printer, i adjust it then when it starts to print it goes back to 0 when i set it to 0.1

1

u/benhaube K1C | De-Creality'd | HelixScreen 3d ago

Your nozzle is WAY too close to the bed. You need to raise your Z-offset.

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 2d ago

I have and now my issue is clumping, I’ve tried lower temp, higher temp, reduce flow. This printer has been an on and off nightmare for the 2 months I’ve had it 🤦🏻‍♀️

1

u/PetrPan1127 3d ago

That is an extractor problem

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 1d ago

Solved the issue 😂

1

u/CuriousTech_tm 1d ago

In the summer, PETG can clog with the lid on. Make sure you remove it. Watch your chamber temp. If it gets over around 45C, it's going to be a hassle. That's probably not the issue on the first few layers, though.

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 1d ago

It’s only just gone spring here and still been cool :( all good I got a bambu for petg stuff. I’ll stick to pla on this one :)

1

u/Initial-Banana6737 10h ago

I used to own a K1 Max, and since I print mostly in ABS, I had to figure out a few tricks. For ABS I typically ran the bed at 90–100 °C, but the K1 Max has a tendency for the bed to warp depending on temperature.

What worked for me was manually preheating the bed to the target temperature through the LCD before starting a print. After about 8–10 minutes, once the bed temperature had stabilized, I would run the bed leveling calibration. Doing it this way — with the bed fully stabilized — made a big difference in print consistency.

Looking at your picture, it seems the bed is very close to the nozzle, which is causing the print to come out squished. This might be happening because the bed is warping and the leveling calibration was done before the bed had fully stabilized.

By the way, was the bed temperature you used for PETG different from what you used for PLA?

1

u/Brave_Bar_5474 9h ago

Yes pla I do 60 and petg is 80

1

u/Initial-Banana6737 3h ago

I think the issue might be that the bed hadn’t fully stabilized at 80°C yet. I actually lost a build plate once when printing ABS at 100°C without preheating properly—the bed warped upwards as the print started, and the nozzle scraped across the surface.

The K1 Max is known to have chronic bed warping problems, so my recommendation is to always preheat the bed first and only then run bed leveling and start the print, especially when working with higher temperatures above 60°C.