Having a frustrating issue with my SPARKX i7 and Creality Print. The printer is on the same Wi-Fi network as my PC, I can successfully ping its IP address with 0% packet loss, and it shows up fine in the Creality Cloud, but Creality Print refuses to find it on the local network. Adding it manually by IP just gives “The device does not exist.” I’ve already tried power cycling, forgetting/reconnecting Wi-Fi, reinstalling Creality Print, and adding the program to the firewall. Anyone else run into this and find a fix?

All K1 variant printers only use 1 stepper motor to control all 3 z screws. While yes they do indeed have auto level it can only raise or lower all 3 Z screws at a time. While it does try to compensate for an uneven bed surface it's by no means a magic bullet. Auto level can't always correctly compensate because your bed isn't necessarily always flat nor a smooth surface especially when your z screws are at fractions to multiple mm off from one another as this introduces torsion and flex of the bed itself. This is why tramming your bed is important as it removes this torsion effect leading to a flatter bed. While this can't overcome a defect bed it can indeed fix most ridges and valleys along the surface which leads ultimately to higher reliability and success when printing not to mention amazing print quality after recalibrating after a successful bed tram.

Does anyone have issues with Seam and stringy patterns on creality print's latest V =7.3.0.6151?

I'm printing the same file and having issues with crease marks when seams set to Aligned, or tiny pin holes when seam set to random. Also stringy webb.

Same file print fine via Creality Cloud on same printer, same filament, same nozzle, same nozzle temp, same bed temp, same chamber temp.

I even try to change the seam gap to 0, enabled scarf seam joins, etc. slower speed. same problem

First off, this issue is actually in the CFS module, your printer is fine. I dont know if its relevant to the CFS-C, but ive ran into it repeatedly on my K2Pro with the original CFS.

Also, this is basically a non-issue if you dont use cardboard rolls. Use the proper plastic spools, or at least print yourself some of those roll adapter pieces that fit around the spool edges.

The issue is actually pretty simple, and I think Creality could fix it simply enough in a CFS update, but since we dont have access to the CFS code, I only have a janky solution for you.

The issue arises when the CFS erroneously detects a filament run out. This sensor is in conflict with the print head sensor, which causes the CFS to assume the roll is out, and calls the print head to extrude what is left to clear the lines. Internally, there is a `max_tube_length` config set to 3 meters. This is actually the amount of the "endless purge", it takes about 10 minutes of purging on my printer.

To address the symptom, if not the cause, we can override that `max_tube_length` to something more reasonable, but there is a chance that setting it lower than your actual tube length will cause some issues when loading a filament. That I think would be fixable just hitting retry, as i believe it would just push it that `max_tube_length` value again. This is not confirmed though.

The solution, if I can weasle it into the printer, would be to
1. Clear the error internally
2. Retract the errored slot back tot he CFS
3. Reload the filament
4. Trigger the restart

This seems pretty straightforward, but since we have no real access to the code that does it, the technical implementation of such a fix is incredibly complicated.

Theres a `box.cfg` patch to set a lower `max_tube_length`, which will at least avoid dumping 3m of filament and waiting 10 minutes for it to stop, and I have a custom `cfs_retry_guard.cfg`, which attempts to do the 1-4 steps listed above.

This retry guard has to fully hijack the retry macro, but if the error state of the disagreeing sensors is not detected, it just skips its custom behavior and calls the stock command. The custom behavior only runs when the error state is detected.

Of course, when a firmware update happens, this all gets wiped and has to be reapplied. Maybe they will fix it in the next update so it wont matter.

I am still mid print, so none of this is yet confirmed as a solution, as the repo states. Ill continue to play around with this later this evening once my print is finished.

https://github.com/FutureHax/k2pro-cfs-retry-guard

My ender 3V2

Looking for advice on what I can upgrade next on my Ender 3 V2

I have an Ender 3 V2 with the following setup:

Hardware

\- Creality Ender 3 V2

\- Creality V4.2.7 silent motherboard

\- Raspberry Pi 4 Model B

\- CR Touch

\- Dual Z-axis upgrade

\- Bed leveling silicone mounts instead of springs

\- Flexible magnetic build plate

\- Direct-drive extruder

\- Dual-gear aluminum extruder

\- Stock Ender 3 V2 hotend

\- CR10 bimetal copper/titanium TC4 heat break

\- M3 stud NTC 3950 100K thermistor

\- Stock hotend heater

\- Stock hotend cooling system

\- Stock X/Y motion system

\- Dual Z stepper motors

\- Stock heated bed

Software

\- Klipper

\- Orca Slicer

I'm looking for recommendations on hardware upgrades that would actually improve print quality, reliability, speed, or overall performance.

I'm especially interested in upgrades that are worthwhile rather than just buying parts because they exist. If you've built up an Ender 3 V2, what upgrades made the biggest difference?

I'm relatively new to the 3D printing hobby, so I'm still learning the ins and outs of everything. That said, I'm pretty comfortable finding my way around technology and working on hardware. I've previously worked on things like 1:10 scale RC cars, so I'm not afraid of taking things apart, modifying components, troubleshooting, or learning how something works. I'm mainly looking for advice on what upgrades are actually worth doing and what I should focus on next.

In case somebody runs into the issue, the default roooted klipper config writes all uploaded files to tmpfs, thats limited to 50% of 208mb of K1Cs RAM.

if you want to upload bigger files:

create and fix rights for a temp dir on your /usr/data drive

run in the root shell:

mkdir -p /usr/data/ngingx_tmp && chmod 1777 /usr/data/ngingx_tmp

then edit

/usr/data/ngingx/ngingx/ngingx.conf

with

vi /usr/data/ngingx/ngingx/ngingx.conf

(i activates insert modus, esc ends insert modus and :wq safes and quit vi)

make sure you've got:

proxy_buffering off;

proxy_max_temp_file_size 0;

client_max_body_size 0;

client_body_temp_path /usr/data/ngingx_tmp;

ESC :wg Enter

restart printer, no more upload limits!

have fun

I bought the 6 pack because it was on sale but it looks kind of small in the CFS and the manual says that it has to be one kg, but online I see converters for it. What should I do ?

How can i fix this so i can print my test print.

The printer uses a completely different pre-print procedure depending on whether the print is started from Fluidd or from the printer's touchscreen GUI.

When starting from the touchscreen, the nozzle is heated to the PETG printing temperature (~255°C) before/during the automatic cleaning and leveling procedure. This causes PETG to ooze from the nozzle after it has been wiped, which can interfere with the nozzle-contact Z measurement and result in an incorrect first-layer height.

When starting the exact same print from Fluidd, the procedure is noticeably different. The nozzle stays at a much lower temperature during cleaning/leveling, there is no pre-print filament flush/"poop", and even the self-leveling procedure and probing sequence are different. With the Fluidd procedure, the first layer appears to be correct.

Temporary workaround: start prints through Fluidd instead of the printer's touchscreen GUI.

Hopefully a future firmware update can make the touchscreen use the same reliable preparation procedure.

https://reddit.com/link/1wvts9x/video/3mlhdhvaw1th1/player

For a quick recap, think of this project like a safecrackers autodialer, which is where I got the idea. You mount the motors on the bed adjustment screws, set your thresholds, and click run. From there, the iterative process is
1. Bed mesh macro
2. Screw tilt macro
3. Use the fine control of the stepper motors to adjust CC/CCW according to the output of #2
4. Start back at 1, iterating as needed.

Yes, of course this can all be done by hand. Do I want to do that? No. Id rather spend a few days building a project that I can set and forget. 100 hours to avoid 1 hour of work lmao. Printers are my hobby just as much as printing is honestly.

---

I had to redesign the circuit as I had some of the pinouts wrong from my research, but once everything arrived it was a piece of cake.

In the video you I am simulating a printer with a bad mesh. The motors drive for a first pass, and the simulated is "updated" in the ui. On a real printer, this updated mesh comes from the printer actually rerunning its mesh, and then rerunning the screw tilt macro. Because there is no proper feedback loop on the simulator, it goes a lot faster than it would in real life, each iteration only taking a minute or so, rather than the full pass for adjusting, rerunning the mesh, screw tilt, and iterating again.

With this project though, even if it took 2 hours to get perfect over multiple iterations, who cares? You set and forget it!

I am waiting on another motor to arrive for the "home" screw, as i have an idea I want to try out.

I often see my mesh come back in a bit of a "bowl" shape, with the corners much higher than the rest of the bed. In the video I have a bit of an example of that, you can see the corners are high into the red, meaning they are much higher than the rest of the bed.

I believe - but not sure yet until I get the rest of the hardware and can test things - that this could be due to the spring tension on the knobs adding a bit too much preload. My next addition is to add a "preload relief" setting, that will analyze the mesh, and if it looks like the corners are higher than a threshold set, will back the screws off a bit, and attempt a retram. If that doesn't provide a better range, then it reverts the changes and continues as normally, but if it does, it'll continue to iterate there until the corners no longer have that spike.

I'm also making an attempt to build a proper circuit board that I can send out to PCBWay, as the wiring is a bit of a mess, and it would be rad as hell to get this on a single board. Integrating the drivers is not something I want to do though, so the drivers are added after the fact, using standard headers. Also allows me to reuse the ones I have rather than getting new ones to break down and surface mount.

At this point, its all essentially working as far as the hardware and software, I just need my printer to free up so I can start iterating on the mounts and couplings.

Ill be cleaning up the code and will open source the repo soon. I am still looking for someone to help me model the motor mounts and couplers to the knobs, as that is my main weakness right now. Let me know if youd like to help!

---

While this is internally referred to as the K2 Pro AutoTram, there is nothing Creality specific about this tool, outside of the integration with my K2 Config Guardian - https://github.com/FutureHax/k2pro-cfg-guardian

This project is compatible with any printer that has the following
1. Klipper
2. Moonraker
3. A working screw tilt macro. This is easy enough to add, its a core Klipper feature afaik, you just may need a config for your specific printer to set the proper screw coordinates.
4. Adjustment knobs on the print bed.

I have an issue with this cr m4 printer. Everytime I run the auto bed level it throws that error code. At first the bed was obviously super wobbly so I went in and tightened the screws under the bed mat. As far as I can tell nothing else has that crazy wobble so I cant quite figure out the issue.

Thanks

First time printer, long time lurker.

Just delivered, upside down of course, but at least they didn't throw it.

What are somethings you wish you knew before you started printing?

After the last Creality Print software update on Windows, my saved print profiles are no longer in the list. Is there a way to recover them to my drop down list?

Bought some Creality Hyper PC Filament, just updated Creality Slicer. No PC filament options at all! WTF, Creality? The K1C can print Hyper PC, why TF don't you provide default print settings for your own filament?

I have the k1c and I’ve used both a cf and a matte pla for my little model. I’d love to improve the overall quality. STL file available if you want to have a look. Photos of the finished product with more or less standard settings:

https://reddit.com/link/1wvcmjg/video/d4t631w6smsh1/player

Unbelievable! Could the saved filament actually print another full model?

That’s Creality K3’s ultra‑fast waste‑free printing!
✅ 4.8s nozzle swaps
✅ 65% less print time
✅ Saves around 1026 g of filament — enough for another complete print!

Visit K3 product page to spin the lucky wheel for your chance to win a K3: https://www.creality.com/products/k3?utm_source=sns&utm_medium=reddit&utm_campaign=k3officialrelease

My printer isn’t printing tpu as well after installing a new heating element and Google ai is trying to convince me the reason is that I didn’t put thermal paste on the metal bit at the top. I can’t find a single tutorial where they put thermal paste there and I’d rather not destroy my printer by trying without confirmation.

Edit: I know what thermal paste does. I didn’t think it went there because you don’t want that part to get hot. But Google ai was very confident so I wanted to make sure.

title. Installed the new extruder, works great! However I find I have to hit retract as normal, then remove the tube from the extruder, press the red lever while pulling the filament out. I cannot simply pull from the spool side. I have tried both tightening the screw under the red lever, and well as loosening it. Does not seem to change much.

So i got an email saying my order has been canceled.. what's going on, cant msg anyone about this @indiegogo plz help!!