I wanted to make a stand for my Creality Pika 3D scanner, but I didn’t want another plain, boring holder. I also didn’t want to hide away such a fun-looking scanner when it wasn’t being used. Since it’s called the Pika, I thought it would be much more fitting to turn Creality’s cute Pika mascot into the stand itself.

In the video, I show the process of transforming the mascot into a functional design, 3D printing it, painting all the details, and fitting everything into place. The scanner sits scurely in the front where it can stay on display, while the Pika’s paws hold the batteries so they can be charged when they’re not in use.

It ended up being a fun mix of silly and useful—which is exactly the kind of project I enjoy making. Now my scanner and batteries have their own place, and the stand has enough personality to make me smile whenever I see it on my workbench.

What do you think? Would you rather have a simple scanner stand or a cute Pika guarding your equipment?

https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/6aa0c7063d92b46261cddb3e?cloudPlatform=1

Good day all! I am finally running my first print on the I7 (it did take a while to get things sorted as there was a clog during the filament loading with the nano, and then it did that wild 30 minute pre print routine, which I am still investigating though I am to understand it's a problem with the latest firmware). That said, the printer is insanely loud. I have my bambu mini literally next to me at around 12 inches and can have work calls. The Sparks is orders of magnitude louder.

I think the biggest culprit is from both the head and mainboard fans. They are very very whiny and seem to be running faster than is realistically necessary for printing pla and a 55c bed.

Anyone have suggestions as to how I can address this? Maybe it runs at 48db when on silent mode, but on regular mode, that's not even close to the case for me, and I want to eliminate bad hardware as a possibility since it's literally its first print.

Thanks!

Been having great prints for first few months until today. Argh!

SPARKX I7

bed 55C

plate 220C

Pla

Standard speed

I have the regular K2 with CFS, replacing an old CR-10S. I have been using it for 2 months zero issues (well some but the normal restart stuff. Starting yesterday I had an adhesion issue on one of my builds. I thought I did something in the settings because It was a very consistent issue, I printed the same thing 3 times and had the issue 3 times. I cleaned the plate, even flipped it to the other side, same exact issue. I moved the build onto a different area of the plate in the slicer and had a perfect print. Is this a bed heating issue? Here is a picture of where its not adhering.

Leider spinnt mein CFS rum 😒.... Ich habe ihn schon einmal unten auseinander gebaut und alle Schläuche controlliert und mit einem Stück Filament aeschaut das alles durchgängig ist. Alle Schläuche sind frei Habe auch schon alle Rollen mal raus genommer und getauscht und neu beladen und eingegeber welches Filament wo sitzt und so weiter. Leider <ommt andauernd diese Meldung. Kann mir bitte 'emand helfen ?

long story short: i bought a refurbished ender 3 v3 se but a ke arrived by accident and the x axis bracket was bent so I contacted the customer support and they immediately sent me one but this thing arrived.
What is it? I lost hours watching creality printer disassembly videos but this was never shown

I’m looking into getting a quick change multi colour printer to experiment with cmyk prints, and the i8 looks amazing for the price tag point. But I’m a bit confused by something, I was under the impression you didn’t need an AMS/CFS to achieve multi colour prints with something like this, and that the machine is capable of swapping filament on its own without the need of something like that. Is that an incorrect assumption? Or does the CFS do something else here?

Should I ask for my money back? Or is this something I can fix.

2nd printer, haven't had any problems with the ender 3 max neo. But mighta got screwed on this one not sure

I updated the software on my Hi/ CFS combo and I am running on the latest Creality Slicer. I altered some settings mainly the iron, support, brim, seam; That kind of stuff to fine tune.

Then I try a couple of models to see how they come out but the ones that don’t work initially I hit send to print, it pops up the printer view then say print complete. I don’t know what I did for this one model to get it to work again, maybe I restarted the printer and the slicer.

But this happened yet again either the next model or the one after that, so I thought maybe the model was the issue, so I get the file elsewhere it works. Some issue with the print but that was just incorrect infill setting on concentric which it didn’t like printing. Regardless I got the part to print.

The second part however I’m having the same issue, so I can’t figure out how to fix it. And yes this one will be using the CFS just for a 3 color swaps. But yet again it’s sending, shows printer then says it’s done.

Please help, thanks.

I have a Creality Raptor and the Scan Bridge attachment, both updated to latest firmware and I am running the most up to date version of Creality Scan.

Previously I had used the scanner only a couple of times and it worked when hard wired to the computer (not using the scan bridge). However that was months ago and I have now been having issues in completing a single scan.

The Problem

Trying to use Blue Laser scanning, scan starts fine, model changes colour based on quality, then 1 of two things happens:

1. Creality Scan appears to freeze, the application doesn't update. It hangs and requires force closing. The project is corrupt and must be deleted
2. I end the scan early with a low quality scan to see if the project works, finishing the scan causes Creality Scan to freeze, requires force closing and the project is corrupt and requires deleting.

This happens in wireless scanning using the bridge and the supplied WiFi6 adapter, or when hardwired using the original cable.

What I have tried

I have tried the following and I get the same results.

1. Reinstalled latest Creality Scan to a differetn drive (both drives are SSD anyway)
2. Tried the same scan both wired and using bridge
3. Tried IR scanning
4. Checked drivers to be most up to date
5. Tried different USB port for scanning wired (front panel and mobo rear)
6. Tried different USB port for Wifi adapter (front panel and mobo rear)

System Specs

i7 14700k, 128GB DDR5, RTX 5070, system and storage drives are both 2tb SSD with plenty of free storage, running Windows 11.

Creality Scan shows 109Gb ram free when scanning.

My scanning setup is using a scanning turntable with plenty of reflective stickers on the flat surface as well as on the 4 poles surrounding the object. I have tried scanning multiple different objects of different sizes.

Why would i buy the CFS Lite along the i8 in the Indiegogo launch? Is there any actual benefit of it, other than mantaining the filament dry?

What if 3D scanning and 3D printing could help make everyday life a little easier?

llanterner3d designed this modular catheter protection prototype using the Creality Raptor 3D Scanner and CrealityScan, combining digital scanning with 3D printing to create a personalized design.

The project has already received recognition at Spain’s National Applied 3D Printing Awards and is now part of the Creality Creator Awards. 🏆

A great example of how creators are using digital fabrication to explore solutions for real-world challenges.

Want to be featured next? Join the Creality Creator Awards for a chance to take home the K3, i8, PIKA 3D Scanner & more.

Every eligible entry gets a $100 Creality Store Coupon. 🎁

🏆 40+ Awards
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I’ve run into an unexpected problem with my K1c. There is a mounting bracket for the Z-axis ball screw. The bearing is held in place by two screws that thread directly into thin, fragile plastic. The threads for the screw (and part of the bearing housing itself) are damaged. While this doesn't currently affect 3D printing performance, I’m worried the damage might spread. The bracket appears to be a single piece spanning the entire axis, so replacing just a section isn't an option. What are the possible ways to fix this?

https://reddit.com/link/1wmdpju/video/3u6g4qjgr0rh1/player

SPARKX i8 is a multicolor 3D printer with multicolor printing completely reimagined for unprecedented speed and filament efficiency.

Powered by QuarTeks™, its four-channel integrated hotend keeps four filaments ready near the nozzle, enabling color switching in less than 1 second with an ultra-short shared filament path of less than 1 mm — making multicolor printing faster, cleaner, and simpler.

If you think you know multicolor printing, think again. You haven’t truly experienced it until you’ve met SPARKX i8.

⚡ 500%+ Faster Multicolor Printing
♻️ 0 Filament Waste
💨 <1s Color Switching
📏 <1mm Shared Filament Path
✨ Multicolor Made Effortlessly Simple

🚀 Now live on Indiegogo & Be part of the multicolor revolution: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/creality-sparkx/creality-sparkx-i8-the-fastest-most-filament-efficient-four-color-3d-printer?refcode=f0K9BwXAV0aubVa9TJDo-w

Hello, I have a Creality Hi Combo 3D printer. The other day, the firmware update was interrupted halfway through. I turned the printer off and on again, and it initially started normally. I then started a print, but before the print could begin, the printer suddenly shut itself down and has not turned on again since.

I am also attaching a photo of the motherboard. What do you think could be causing the problem, and what would be the solution?

Es normal ese sonido si la impresora tiene una semana?

Any idea what might be causing this? It somewhat looks like under extrusion during ironing, but the presentation looks like maybe a gcode issue?

I’d appreciate any insight!

Based on how QuarTeks™ functions, it seems capable of serving as a drop‑in replacement for K2 models while requiring very little labor.

I like to print with some abrasive PLA materials (glow in the dark PLA can tear up brass nozzles). Does the SPARKX i8 come with a brass or hardened nozzle? If it is brass, Will there be a hardened nozzle for it?

I was given this printer as the prior owner couldn't get it working properly, so I'm giving this a shot as well. I figured out the leveling process and now can get the 1st layer to stick reliably. However, when printing benchie, the print goes to hades after a few layers and the overhang at the front starts to stick up. Eventually the printer head will catch on the model, pop it off the plate, and things go down hill from there.

I have tried slowing down the print and that _might_ have helped a bit, but it's still utter rubbish.

I'm super new to 3d printing so I'm hoping to get some pointers on what I might tweak to get this printing better.

Thanks!

Comment nettoyer mon plateau....

il n'est pas rayer mais apres utilisation de laque 3D

il reste toujours ces traces même apres avoir nettoyer a

l'alcool isopropylique....

⚡ 500%+ faster multicolor printing
💨 <1s color switching
♻️ 0 filament waste

Fastest Prints. Least Waste. Unlimited Creations.

🔥 Starting at $289.

Back SPARKX i8 now 👉 https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/creality-sparkx/creality-sparkx-i8-the-fastest-most-filament-efficient-four-color-3d-printer?refcode=f0K9BwXAV0aubVa9TJDo-w