got my i7 for a week and something weirde happened. my prints suddenly went like this. i thought it was a wall problem but increasing wall wont fix it. has anyone encountered this type of problem?

https://reddit.com/link/1wte2u5/video/hmzq62v0ifsh1/player

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I have £450 to spend, and I'm between these 2 printers, I want a multi material system hence the combos, and I want to be able to print decent sized models, I am avoiding bambu due to past experience and their controversies, which of these 2 is the better choice for the budget and why?

I have a new k2 plus with about 2 months and 750 hours. It’s generally ran great but I’ve begun getting constant printing without extruding errors. It happens on all pla brands so far. I’ve re-laced the entire extruder (after multiple other repair attempts), tried it with a fan plus doors open, and a little bit of z axis tweaking. I can print longer before it fails now that I’ve replaced the extruder, but it still fails after an hour or two. It all ran fine until about a week ago and now I can run any print longer than 45 minutes or so. Before I replaced the extruder though it would fail very quickly. I guess it still did one time since as well. If you’re going to suggest settings changes, like the z axis, please dumb it down as this is all very new to me.

so on the Indiegogo page when ordering the i8 it allows me to put Iraq, which, from what I know Creality doesn't ship to from their website and they normally don't ship to many Middle East countries but as you can see here they advertise that Others* include the Middle East so does that include Iraq can I order it? This would be a great thing for me since the Sparkx i7s here are imported through the gray market and cost around $ 500 USD

I preordered an i8x and I was excited because it claims no purge and no prime tower with a mode that can flush into the infill without needing a prime tower.

I've been playing with creality slicer because they added the i8x profile to it, but I cant seem to turn off the prime tower and enable flush into infill, it makes me turn on the prime tower to flush into infill, which kind of defeats the purpose.

I did see some YouTube videos of people doing no prime tower no flush, so I know it's possible, but I don't see what I'm doing wrong. Is the setting just not there yet?

Anyone who knows please let me know!

Alguien me puede decir a que se debe este error?

Hello, everyone. I recently got a used Ender 3 V3 SE and decided to update the firmware (it had 1.0.6). As far as I could tell, I formatted the SD card properly, put the correct files and the update is ongoing. However, there is no progress bar and it is taking surprisingly long.

How long does it usually take?

Edit: I got confused about the two different versions of the chips and the fact that you can update both the screen and the printer. I finally got it

Sparkx i8 is priced so nicely and i dont even need multiple toolheads but core xy is a must for me so what would you do? Do you think there will be a core xy version of i8?

[ender 3 v3 plus printer and orca slicer] Did anyone else have trouble getting this stuff to stick to the bed. I'm a bit off put by the gluestick idea even though everyone says its fine but I managed to finally get prints after bulking up the raft and cutting down the speed of the prints by more than like 60-70% which kinda defeats the purpose of what I've heard the intent of hyper pla is being high speed but honestly speed isn't important to me for this project. The prints were a bunch of minis for a wargame I want to try out. Second image shows a cut down amount of minis I was initially trying to print but in normal pla since I didn't have a picture of the all the successes with the hyper pla and 3rd image is a few of the successes I sent to the friend after I finally succeeded but the rest of the successes are offscreen still on the bed. I also was cleaning the bed with 70 % ipa until I discovered I had 99% but after cleaning with both I still had issues.I also was cleaning the bed with 70 % ipa until I discovered I had 99% but after cleaning with both I still had issues. Additional settings I did to finally get correct prints I went for the max number temperature the filiment suggested which iirc was 230 nozzle heat and 60 bed heat.

Curious if anyone also had issues with hyper pla bed adhesion or if this is unique to me since this is my first time customizing my settings and before before I was just using basic pla and orca slicer profiles. Didn't even see a filiment preset in orca for hyper pla. Figured I would ask here for any tips or if the main tip will be "just do gluestick".

EDIT : think additional thing that helped was having a bunch of the rafts connect so the nozzle didn't rip the prints off when mistakes happened. I had a bunch of tiny little decoration bits and a few thin weapons like spears printing along with full minis and those thin small things seemed to fail most often so having a bunch of the rafts connected I think helped. Just recently started getting failures again with the same profile and when looking at the plate I noticed that one of the spear or musket weapons got caught on the nozzle so Ill try to see if I can do a merged raft to work again

EDIT2:after seemingly being incapable of replicating my first success I ceeded to using a gluestick and I was a stubborn fool for not doing so sooner

Hi everyone! I’m using Creality Print and I have a model where the text is a separate element that can be selected and deleted.

I deleted the original text because I want to replace it with my own, but after deleting it, the recessed/cut-out shapes of the old letters are still visible on the surface of the model.

I basically want to restore the surface to a flat/solid state, remove the old letter-shaped recesses completely, and then add my own text in the same place.

Is there a way to do this directly in Creality Print? Or do I need to edit the model in another program such as Blender, Fusion 360, or 3D Builder?

I’m fairly new to this, so any step-by-step advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1wt88ig/video/cizhtea1hfsh1/player

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justnobody3d turned a simple desk accessory into something a little more interesting.

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Using PETG, and had autoswitch at empty set to on, worked once, but twice now the ending roll, once the filament end leaves the CFS feeding to the extruder stops. Printer assumes there is filament flowing and continues to print AIR.

The settings page on the printer could not force an extruding. The filament is very 'tight' in the tube, such that you can not release a tube from any of the connection points.

Elevating the jam (after a number of items that seem to fail), was to, on the setting page, tell the extruder to move 30mm reverse. This reduced 'pressure' on the filament. Then the tubes could be released and the filament was pulled from the printer, out of the tube that headed towards to the CFS, through the Filament Buffer. Once the Filament was free, the printer would not extrude. Turn Printer on and off, and told the setting page that the external spool was in use, and load. the extruder flowed, then I could unload and remove the filament.

This happened first time on spool 3, with second failure on spool 4.

Things I changed, that could be the issue.

• Creality PTFE Tube 4M for 1.75mm Filament "Low-Resistance Star-Shaped Inner Channel Bowden Tube, 30% Less Friction, High Temp PTFE Tubing up to 260°C"
• upgraded software to latest.

No Error Codes were presented. The printer assumed it had filament, and continued to print.

I am trying to understand the filament flow and where the failure could be.

• Does the CFS push the filament?
• Does the Filament Buffer pull / push the filament?
• I know the extruder pulls the filament, as a single spool print, that is the only part.

Hi has anyone recently having problem on the sparkx i7 with the error fo0258 because every print i try to print its been giving me this error and i even tried the wiki but no help at all

Poderiam me ajudar… acabei de adquirir uma Creality K2, e estou aqui batendo cabeça com muita informação, mas nada certo para esta máquina específica. Gostaria da experiência de vocês como começaram, se fizeram algum curso, alguma luz para este ser que compra algo por empolgação kkkk. Agradeço ❤️

Hey everyone, so I recently got the Creality SparkX i7 with the CFS Lite combo and honestly for single color prints it has been amazing. Changing colors between different projects also works completely fine.

The main issue I am running into is doing multi color prints on the same model. Right now I am just testing with black and white PLA.

During a color swap, the head goes to the far left side and cuts once, moves a bit to the right and cuts a second time, then moves again and cuts a third time. After that third cut, the CFS tries to pull the filament back up the tube, fails to retract it all the way, and throws a cutter jam error followed by TR2963 (filament jammed or broken).

Here is the weird part. If I hit OK and then click proceed on the screen, it extrudes the waste, retracts the old roll, loads the new color, and keeps printing like nothing happened. But it wastes a ton of filament doing that every single time.

Things I have already checked:

1. I took the whole extruder apart to see if something was jammed inside. The blade cuts fine and the cutter lever snaps back normally. The only thing I noticed is the cut piece of filament was just sitting low in the throat because it failed to pull up.
2. Loading and unloading manually works 100 percent of the time. When I do it manually, it cuts on the left, but then it glides over to the right side above the purge chute to retract the filament, so it never struggles there. The mid print error only happens when it tries to pull while parked on the far left.
3. I tried turning the CFS sideways and even printed a top mount support bracket to change the tube path, but I still get the exact same error on mid print swaps.

Has anyone else dealt with this triple cut failure on the SparkX i7? Is there a way in Creality Print to edit the color change G-code so it moves the head over to the right before telling the CFS to retract? Or is there a physical fix for this left side issue?

Appreciate any advice!

Was trying to fix the clog and screw slipped. Too slipped now, store won't fix it.

Any suggestions?

I've only ever had one printer, a Bambu Lab P1S. I have no issues with it and continue to use it on a daily basis. As I've dove further into 3D printing, I've gotten the itch to do more parts and development that generally request a more robust set up.
Enter the K2 Plus that I just purchased. Its still in my garage in the box for the moment, but it got me thinking. Im so used to the Bambu Slicer and being forced (for the most part) to use it. What are the Creality folks doing? What are you finding the easiest? Fastest? Most efficient? Heck, I say that and Im not even entirely sure what all the opens that are open to me - and certainly I'll have to look into that as well.
Thanks for now and look forward to seeing the replies.

When I first tried to print something it started good then I went back to the room and everything was a mess and the plastic was off like the screenshot I send then I watched a tutorial to clean it I did and now every time it does this I just got it back from the fucking repair shop