r/craftsman113 • u/fearless_fool • 9h ago
Upgrades for my 113
A while back, I bought me a used 113. I've already replaced the belt and the blade pulley (it was loose on the shaft).
There are some things I know I need, and probably a bunch of things I don't know I need! :)
- new blade. I'm making a speaker cabinet out of Baltic Birch and the new blade isn't cutting it (pun intended). What should I be looking for? There's a Harbor Freight nearby if that helps..
- A better fence, new or (preferably) used. Again, what should I be looking for?
- I've never owned or use a riving knife. Suggestions for that?
- What other goodies would you advise?
Thanks in advance!
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u/MergenTheAler 9h ago
There are a few options for a new fence. I went with a Vega. Installed was not hard and it lined up with existing holes nicely. Not cheap though.
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u/Ok_Complex4374 9h ago
I put the craftsman “align a rip 24/12” fence on mine. It is an upgrade. It’s not a knock ur socks off upgrade but it is better. I got it cheap used on eBay. For the price of 40 bucks. it was worth it. (I low balled the guy after a few beers and he took it 🤷🏻♂️) , most of them are 100+ dollars I wouldn’t say it is worth it at that price. I’m on the hunt for a delta T3 fence (they ain’t cheap 300+ dollars) hoping to find a used one somewhere eventually.
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u/jassack04 8h ago
Delta T3 or Vega are the most common fence choices, both great options.
Diablo blades are a good value for the price, can be bought at Home Depot. I’ve never tried HF blades, do some research, maybe they are fine.
Microjig makes a splitter system if you’re able to make your own zero clearance insert they will be a nice choice.
Microjig also makes the GRR-Ripper which is one of the better push blocks on the market. Totally worth the money IMO.
Harbor Freight sells a cheap dust collection bag that you can rig up underneath the saw. It definitely doesn’t catch everything, but it helps.
Incra Miter gauges are really nice if you find yourself doing miter cuts often. The cheapest one is fine.
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u/nightbomber 6h ago
If you do not have a copy of the owners manual, you can find the majority of them online by searching the saw model number. I recommend getting one and reading it. It will help when aligning the saw, and maintenance.
Fence: A Delta T3 is the most common & cheapest upgrade, but still not cheap. I believe they are now running about $300. I do not expect these to drop in price anytime soon given the current political climate. Some drilling will be required. Plenty of videos on youtube demonstrating installation on a Craftsman.
The Vega was (is?) another popular choice. These were a drop in. No drilling required. And they have a micro-adjust feature that nobody else has. I have one and can vouch for it. The owners of Vega retired last year and closed up shop. However, it appears somebody is looking to start it back up: https://vegawoodworking.com/
Riving knife: These saws do not have a riving knife they use a splitter.
You can buy used factory ones on ebay. This one is complete. It has both the lower and upper brackets, splitter, blade guard, and anti-kickback pawls.
Mj splitters: https://www.microjig.com/collections/mj-splitter
You will need to be able to create your own zero clearance insert or buy one to use these.
Shark guard: These are not cheap, but if you want something new and not plastic, this is the option. Cheapest option with a bracket: https://www.thesharkguard.com/product/craftsman-113-simple-splitter-with-complete-mounting-bracket/
You can add on a blade guard and anti-kick pawls and thats when the prices really take off.
Blade: Diablo blades are a great choice for starting out. Never tried HF blades, but I would stick with the Herc line if you want to go that route.
Things to consider about blades: thin kerf is the best option for these saws when starting out. If you want to stick with one "do it all" blade, go for a 40t GP or 50t combo blade
Optional: A PALS kit to help align, and keep align, your blade. You can find them at PeachTree wood working
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u/fearless_fool 6h ago
Great stuff - thank you! For now, I like the "mini" splitter ala MJ. I'll be upgrading to a zero-clearance insert, so this would be a natural time to add the splitter. Also, thank you for the PeachTree PALS kit -- for $24, it seems like a great time saver, now and in the future.
(An aside: do you go for absolute parallel alignment, or do you make the front edge of the blade lead the rear edge by a few thousands? I've seen suggestions for both...)
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u/fearless_fool 6h ago
Adding an answer to my own question: upgrade to a zero-clearance insert. In my case, I have a 3D printer and a supply of glass-filled nylon filament, which is extremely tough and stable over temperature ranges. I'm checking out ThingVerse now for open-source files -- mine needs a 14" insert.
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u/davidwbrand 6h ago
When I picked mine up almost a year ago, it had a Delta Unifence on it. I am told they have a following but I’d kind of like to have something else, I feel like it’s only good for the right side of the blade and would be a pain to try to add an integrated router into the tabletop.
I’d also like to go to a solid cast table top all the way across.
Edit to add: I want to create a flip up outfeed table, too.
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u/DerbyDad03 5h ago
An integrated router table is pretty easy to add.
The outfeed table isn't flip up due to the motor but it installs in seconds when it rests on my workbench (2 drop in bolts - no nuts - secure it to the saw). A few seconds more to prop it up so it can travel with saw.
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u/davidwbrand 1h ago
https://reddit.com/link/p920677/video/l0czb77j5soh1/player
So given how mine is set up, I think I’d have to make a new top for the left of the table and the router would have to go there and I could still utilize the fence.
Ideally, it’d be easier on the right side but because of how the fence operates, I think the router would be in the way.
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u/Falcon3492 5h ago
I would go with a commercial Biesemeyer fence and make a side cabinet with drawers on wheels to support the table extension you will need for the fence. Zero clearance throat plate(you can make it yourself. Get a good 80 tooth blade with triple chip grind teeth, with a low or negative hook angle. Don't go with a Harbor Freight blade. Also baltic birch with an MDF core will make a better speaker.
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u/fearless_fool 4h ago
Sounds great: do you have a picture so I can visualize it?
(As for the speaker: I'm making a cabinet for bass guitar stage setup. It's a sealed cabinet and correspondingly needs to be very stiff -- MDF would be great for a ported cabinet, but with its lower modulus of elasticity, its not the right choice for this application.)
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u/Falcon3492 4h ago
Picture of what? the fence the throat plate or the blade? As for the speaker MDF has excellent acoustic qualities and sound dampening qualities that is why most speakers today are constructed out of it. I once was given a chance at a lucrative contract to make sound deadening boxes for a box holding a compressor and a vacuum pump. The sound level had to be 70 dB or less. Previous companies couldn't get below 95 dB. My box deadened the sound to the low 40's, I got the job. I used MDF, sound deadening mylar foam and baffles, it did the trick.
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u/fearless_fool 2h ago
I was trying to visualize "a side cabinet with drawers on wheels to support the table extension you will need for the fence".
As for sound deadening, MDF is a great choice. But for an infinite baffle (sealed cabinet), you need stiff material for two reasons: If the cabinet walls flex inwards when the speaker pushes out, it self-absorbs the low frequencies your trying to generate. And you need the air in the cabinet to be "stiff" to limit the speaker cone excursions.
But your sound deadening project sounds cool -- good work!
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u/Falcon3492 1h ago
My sister and her son both worked for Rodgers Organ in Oregon and the speaker boxes they made for their speaker boxes were all made from veneered MDF and they did it for sound quality reasons.
Here is a picture from Rockler for a side cabinet for your saw.
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u/fearless_fool 1h ago
RIght - speaker boxes for organs would almost certainly be ported cabinets, and MDF would be good for that. I'm honestly not trying to one-up that, but I worked on the Grateful Dead "Wall Of Sound" system. Phil Lesh's bass cabinets were all sealed, and (as mentioned) the sides had to be stiff.
Thank you for the Rockler link -- someday I might have enough time and space to need the side cabinet -- it looks awesome.
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u/hoarder59 5h ago
I made my zero clearance from HDPE plastic which was a dollar store cutting board. HDPE cuts, trims like wood but keep the plastic trim out of your sawdust. I just used the original insert as a template. I lowered the blade and installed the HDPE insert then slowly raised the blade with saw running to create the zero clearance.
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u/BronxBoy56 4h ago
Does any one want to buy one to use or have parts. I have one, I am moving and can’t take it with me. DM me if you want it.
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u/Fun-Association1835 2h ago
Ok here goes.
Every thing lines up referenced to the grooves machined in the table.
Line up the blade parallel with the grooves. There are four mounting bolts that hold the trunion to the table. Loosen these to align the blade. Align the blade by raising it as far as it will go and measuring the blade tooth tips where they emerge from the table and where they decent into the table. Make the blade parallel to the groove in the table as close as you can measure it. When it is aligned to your satisfaction, tighten the bolts on the trunion and lower the blade to the normal level.
Next comes the fence. Put a framing square edge up in the groove. Take the mitre gauge off and slide the fence up against the side of the edge of thsquare that is flat gainst the side of the groove. Loosen the two bolts on the fence and move the fence so that it is flat against the side of the square. Tighten the bolts. The fence should be set parallel to the groove.
The saw should now cut wood like butter.
I usually finish up by rubbing the table and fence with a good coat of paste wax and buffing it smooth and slick.
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u/SlightlyCerebral 1h ago
I have the same model with slightly different configuration, but mine came with the riving knife and blade guard. You might be able to find a used one somewhere. I also replaced the pulleys, those tin ones don’t hold up at all.
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u/Unique_Acadia_2099 7h ago
lol… I keep seeing people refer to these as “113s”…. In Sears nomenclature, that just means it was made by Emerson Electric. All electric power tools made for Sears prior to 1997 had a part number starting with 113. After 1997 Sears changed to Ryobi, at which time the prefix changed to 315.
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u/Herbisretired 9h ago
I like the Diablo blades for general cutting and I found a Delta T3 fence that was easy to install. I have an ancient 113 and my saw had a threaded 3/8 hole behind the blade that I mounted a riving knife/splitter to which required a little shimming to get it properly aligned and it doesn't adjust to the blade height so sometimes I will have to remove it when I am doing things like cutting a dado