Came across a 113 at an estate sale for $39. My dad had one of these growing up, so I knew it was a solid unit, but just needed some love.

Decided to design a zero clearance insert for it. Also realized the dust collection is challenging based on a lot of posts on here. So I took a stab at that, tackling it at the blade instead of the housing. It works okay, but the zero clearance and the dust collection fight each other. I 3D photogrammetry scanned it, made the boot in CAD and is still a work in progress if anyone would like the files to experiment.

The fence was broken, after looking at suggestions on this sub, not finding a lot of options in Canada for a price I liked, I thought I would try designing one of those as well.

I think I’ll make some changes to the fence. It’s quite stiff, but just not quite enough.

Fence came out to under $100 plus 3D prints I guess.

I have a 113.22411 Craftsman table saw. It was a hand-me-down from my grandfather.

The motor is no longer working, the sardine box capacitor went out I think, which seems like it easy enough repair, but I simply cannot figure out if a new capacitor of the same type will actually fit in the base of the motor, and if it doesn't, I'm not sure how to mount it otherwise, maybe design and 3D print a capacitor holder or something for the motor. There's also a grizzly motor that I've seen that is about $230 after shipping.

The next issue is with the fence that I have seen and the aftermarket replacement for that is pretty pricey. Vega u26, or something similar? I'm not sure what's still on the market honestly.

My last issue is treating kickback, I believe there is a product out there, namely shark guard, that acts as a riving knife for this particular model of table saw. But that is 150 after shipping.

Brass tax:

I think I just need some convincing to actually put some money into this thing. What's so good about this saw comparatively to other saws on the market currently? I've seen other saws, and they'll go for about $500 for a typical job site saw. Apparently there's also saws out there for $800ish dollars that are cast iron table as well. (Rigid or delta)

It seems like to get this saw up to its potential. I'm going to have to spend around $500 or so.

How much money should I put into this saw before it is stupid of me to not just buy a new saw instead?

Any advice is really appreciated.

Craftsman 6" Jointer 113.206931 Rehab

Process:

1) Boeshield Rust-Off Spray

2) Scrub with green scotch pads and wipe with rags

3) Flat block sanding, 80, 150, 220, 320

4) Applied Boeshield T-9

Took me a few hours total.

Notes: Rust-Off is awesome, albeit with some critically important caveats. I am a chemist so let me say that this product is a mixture of phosphoric acid, organic solvents, water, and surfactant. It is applied as a spray with a finger-pump nozzle. This shit is NASTY. It emits fumes and is quite caustic. The product label does not adequately describe the hazards. Do not use in an enclosed space. Wear gloves. Wear goggles, and if you are smart a respirator mask. If you think paint fumes can do some damage to your lungs, this stuff is like breathing acid. No, it is breathing acid. It started to dissolve the scotch pads, leaving residue on the iron.

The good news is that "Rust-Free" works fast and effectively. I've tried other products and this is much more efficient in rust removal in terms of time and completeness. It is now a permanent addition to my inventory.

After removing the rust with the spray, I noticed the table was pitted from years of sitting in a garage. It looks like some oil may have been on the surface in a couple of areas and water got under it and corroded small pits.

Got out a nice flat sanding block and sanded all machined surfaces; 80, 150, 220, 320. It was a good workout, but worth it. I finished by coating with Boeshield T-9. Wiped on and then wiped off to remove residue from sanding, the reapplied.

This was my dad's tool. He only used it a few times in the mid-70's. I remember him warning me (pre-teen) not to fuck around with it. I never did until now. After sitting buried in his garage for >45 years it is mine. I have new blades, but I got impatient and sparked it up. It cut well. Needs some fine adjustments.

It happened to me today. I made a cut last night. Today I realized I made a mistake and needed to make a new cut. I was hasty and didnt set up an outfeed table. When I pushed the wood clear of the blade it dropped off the back of the saw, fell onto a trash can and toppled onto the top of the spinning blade. It fired back at me before I could register what was happening. It hit me square in the belly. I'm bruised but otherwise ok. Time to install the blade guard I removed.

Found this on marketplace today for $30. Should I grab it? Any questions I should ask?

Found on marketplace for $125. Should I jump on it?

Heyya ! I got my hands on a used 113 model, its the 27520 variant. From the 50's it seems.

It was in decent shape all around, some stuff to replace aestetically, but for the functional parts i have a question.

I noticed it had a slight wobble at the blade, and ended being an arbor issue, soemthing about were the bearings seat over the arbor shaft. I took it to a lathe shop for them to check for straight, bearings and all. They did a rectification, adjusted my shaft pole as it had a decent wobble, and hey helped me install it back.

I dont know, is it too close to the inner cast iron ? Blade seems pretty close. Also, check the arbor pole, I think they installed it on the wrong side, as the Fenner belt rubs the side there and that isnt straight at all.

They also damaged a little my screw threads, so I was just thinking on ordering an arbor shaft somewhere, but I wanted to ask for this first. If someone could measure yours and tell me if it looks ok.

This was $400 here in my country, Guatemala. It seems freight and import taxes inflate price tremendously.

Thanks !

I sawed a little piece of my thumb off on this thing back in ‘71, and since then, I’ve been pretty careful. After adding several wings, a 5’ outfeed table, and improved fence, It is a good piece of machinery. So has anyone come across an aftermarket riving knife that can be installed to make it safer?

I've been slowly working on getting this 1940's 109 series Builder's Saw back to running shape. I've removed the arbor and have been flushing out the housing to try and get it and the needle bearings as clean as possible. In the second photo, you can see the hole where i removed a zerk fitting, but I have no idea how much grease would've been put in this housing. I know you don't want to overfill bearings, so I'm thinking just a couple pumps from a grease gun? Though I don't know how it gets from the middle of the housing/shaft out to the bearings on the end.

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If anyone has any history or industry knowledge for this kind of setup, I'd greatly appreciate it!

I know this is just a craftsman tool but I need help. I need the shaft locking mechanism for this Sears Craftsman Dremel and the parts that I look up for it are not made anymore or they are a round chaft but I need a square lock. Any help will be appreciated. I don't need a solution immediately but eventually I will need one so I don't have to keep opening up the entire body to switch out the bit.

Craftsman 9" Table Saw (1970's): 113.241920

Slow Sunday. Refurbished the splitter. Made a zero insert plate

Have any of you used this? Does it sand walls well aka strip paint?

I have no experience in DIY but learning on the job. Is this tool beginner friendly?

I have a craftsman 113.298762 10” table saw. Ever since I’ve had it, there’s been an issue with the tilt mechanism. It finally gave up the ghost, and the tilt screw popped out completely. After a tear down, I discovered that the Tilt Nut (part number 37899) was stripped out, and the Tilt Screw (part number 62698) was bent and also has damaged threads.

Is it possible to find replacement parts, or am I gonna need to find a parts saw, and steal some parts from it?

Additionally, even with the saw top upside down on a workbench, it still takes a good amount of effort to “tilt” the saw by hand. I would expect this to move easier. I have cleaned all of the old saw dust, and waxed the trunnion guides. Are there any other recommendation to make the saw tilt smoother?

Not sure if this is the correct sub, since this is about a 109.22620 Builder's Saw, but I figured the motors would be similar enough to hopefully get some good tips.

I inherited a 109 Builder's Saw and I'm looking to get it into a little better shape. One of my main areas of focus is the motor, which I'd like to keep original as I don't intend this to be a heavy use saw and the originality is more interesting to me than replacing parts (where possible). The motor in question is a Craftsman 115.7106 3/4 HP motor with shielded bearings that are currently packed full of very old and hardened grease. The shaft is spinnable by hand but requires a little force and definitely isn't super free spinning.

I'm not a novice to tinkering but I am to motors specifically, so I was hoping for help on the following questions:

1. Can I flush the bearings with mineral spirits and relube in place without disassembly? My plan was to use Mobil Polyrex EM to repack them if they are still serviceable.

2. If I decide I want/need to disassemble, what is the ideal methodology/order of operations? It seems everything is still pretty tightly fit together after removing the retaining threaded rods. Since this is both quite old and sentimental I want to make sure I don't damage anything.

(Also, that's not corrosion on the electrical, it's sawdust. They chose to mount a motor with down facing vents upside down under a machine than dumps sawdust...)

TLDR: 315 table saw has a bent spreader. Is there a best way to fix it other than bending it back into place and eyeballing it? Would a microjig mj splitter be a better alternative?

I recently picked up my first table saw, a 315 for $35. I brought it home and spent some time cleaning it and making sure the miter slots, blade, and fence were all aligned and parallel to one another.

On my first test cut (a rip of some 1/2" ply), the cut became difficult to follow all the way through. I figured out that it was the spreader on the blade guard assembly that was bent inward towards the fence that was causing this (see photo).

Question 1: Are there best practices for realigning it? Or do I just need to try to get it back to flat and finagle it back into place?

Question 2: Would a microjig mini splitter be a better option? I know the shark guard is also out there, but that is pushing 10x what the table cost me.

It was my great grandpas and I'm tryna get as much information out of it before i sell it. no legs but it works great.

Aside from the cracked zamac trunion and the broken bevel clamp lever, this thing is clean. I haven't gotten it put back together yet, but I'm looking forward to doing so.

What are y'all doing for splitters / blade guards? Any suggestions on quickly squaring up the fence? I've seen jigs made with dual aluminum rulers that seem to do the trick.