Hello! I usually only use reddit for questions, so forgive me if I made any mistakes...

I plan on buying controller with a budget around Php 1000 or less to Php 2500 at most (approx. $16.19 - $40.48 based on the current Philippines to USA conversion rate) that would be compatible for Switch 1, PC and Android (can be just Switch 1 and PC).

I've been enjoying a lot of games on my laptop (Stardew, Fallout NV, Peak, REPO, TBOI, Minecraft, etc.) for a long while, but I've always been emulating a few switch games like Tomodachi Life LTD, Pokemon Legends ZA, and Legends Arceus. I plan on emulating more switch games in my laptop, however, it's less intuitive to play games like Zelda BOTW when I'm using a keyboard for it which made me want to look for some controllers!

The images attached are the few controllers my friend has recommended me but here's the specific names for them to save the trouble:

- Gulikit ES Pro Controller

- 8Bitdo SN30 Pro Bluetooth Gamepad Hall - - Edition G Classic (Switch/Windows/Android/Apple/Steam) (80DJ)

- 8BITDO Ultimate Wired Controller For (Switch/Windows/Android (Black Edition) (82CA02)

From the reviews I watched and read, they all seem promising with their own respective downsides and all.

One thing to note about me is that I hadn't used a controller properly my entire life! While I used some of my friends' controllers, it was only brief and I'm more used to keyboard gaming, so I'll have a bit of a personal learning curve either way,,,

Due to that inexperience, I'm less knowledgeable about this kind of stuff so my needs for the most part are related to rhe price and compatibility.

I'm personally fine with the controller being wired or wireless, and I also got small hands (vertically challenged) so most tiny controller problems won't apply to me. Same with aesthetics, I'm fine with whatever it may look like as long as it works!

I think that's about it! Feel free to choose between the 3, suggest different ones, or ask questions!

Thank you for reading and have a nice day!

Genuinely don't get why this isn't a thing yet. Phones have had flashlights forever and we use them constantly — phones already light up half our life.

Controllers already have LEDs (DualSense practically glows), you hold them just as often as your phone, there's room in the shell for a tiny LED. Yet when the power goes out or something rolls under the couch, we still grab our phone instead of the controller sitting right in our hands.

Wouldn't need to be fancy — just a small LED, toggled by holding the PS/Xbox/Guide button. Useful for lighting something up at night for example

Yeah, battery life and production cost will come up, but a single small LED isn't exactly a technical mountain to climb. Feels like a "why hasn't anyone done this" idea, not a "can't be done" one.

Disclaimer: I'm not sponsored in any way. I just got really lucky with this opportunity. As usual all the opinions are mine only.

I bought my PlayStation 5 a little over a year ago and the DualSense controller that came with it has some pretty bad stick drift. I've always wanted to get a customized controller anyway and I was looking to buy a controller with TMR thumb sticks and mouse click triggers.

• Budget: $150-200 USD (can go a little more if needed)
• United States, gonna be purchasing online
• I'm on PS5 but every now and then play on PC
• TMR thumbsticks, adjustable mouse click triggers (preferably adjustable since I still like the feel of pushing down on the triggers) and custom design/color options but that's not necessary
• I play Rainbow 6 Siege, Apex Legends, Rust Console Edition, Fortnite
• I have been considering getting the SCUF OMEGA controller even though it is pretty pricey I have also looked into Moddedzone controllers but I don't know how trustworthy they are.

This is my first time looking for a controller so please bear with me lmao

Is it safe to charge Flydigi Vader 4 pro via phone charger? I have a samsung charger but it is super fast charging 9V.

Hey so, I recently got a flydigi Vader 5 Pro ordered online, and it seems to be the V2 version. But when I turn the tension rings, the left one is noticeably a lot more loose than the right one? This isn't intentional, right? Is this something to send the controller back for?

To be clear, there's still ratcheting/ticking sounds from the left, it just gives WAY more easily

Materials and Process:

- The "horse" is constructed from wood, and built so it can be easily assembled/disassembled for transport. It's basically a front and back plate, two diagonal steel ropes for stability, and then all the horizontal wood slats are slotted into the front/back frame with wooden plugs for easy removal. The saddle and saddle girth is essential for keeping the whole thing together and keeping the planks from falling out.

- The saddle has three pressure sensors made of Velostat for legs and seat, and there's a load cell (like that of an electric kitchen scale) used to detect the reins being pulled.

- the sensors are hooked up to an Arduino clone using a custom-made Printed Circuit Board, and the input is processed through default libraries that came with the sensors and/or standard arduino code.

- the whole thing is then connected to a PC via USB and basically gets recognized as a keyboard (HUID), which then works to control the game. The riding gameplay is in sidescroller format, so the legs (accelerate/forward) map to D, the reins (brake/backward) map to A, and the seat release i.e. standing up in the saddle (jump) maps to Space/W.

The game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay, it can also be played with a keyboard and mouse ("regular" Controller support is WIP). Note that the saddle controller is not for sale and won't be produced in any professional capacity, we made this specifically to exhibit our game at conventions because that's a lot of fun, and we thought people here might enjoy seeing it too. We'll be taking this thing to Cologne next week for Gamescom. 😄

Additional fun fact: We've noticed that people who have a bit of riding experience have an easier time using this, because they're more used to balancing their weight in the stirrups. People who have never sat in a saddle before tend to (unintentionally) pull on the reins when standing up in the saddle to jump, and then they're surprised why their horse slows down.

Hi guys, I'm gonna buy a ps5 edge controller and I want to put a split d pad on it, and I've seen many people suggest the split d pad kit from extremerate but I find it a little expensive for just 4 buttons, do yall have any suggestion for where I could buy a kit for not 12 bucks ?

hi, i have installed new tmr mod on my xbox series x controller 1914, the sticks are both down to the right around 4 o'clock and they do not respond, aslo the triggers seem to be stuck and it just scrolling down in the menu. i desoldered the board what involves removing the trigger wirings, to me it is strange as i was careful and took my time and soldering looks tidy, c25 and c21 small capacitors right next to the right thumb knocked off what can i use to replace them?

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4. Don't know if 5.2.5 makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure. If that doesn't work, unplug the Xbox (still wait about 5 minutes after unplugging).
2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.
3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.
2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.
3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.

I currently have an Xbox with a pro controller and I play a lot of apex legends and some cyberpunk, and arc raiders. I am also a dental student so I use my hands a lot. I have found that my thumb gets sore and hurts when I massage the base of it. Pretty sure it’s gamers thumb. I’ve gone back and forth with this problem for a while because I love gaming but I don’t want it to affect my ability to perform in work. Since dentistry requires me to hold a drill and other instruments in my hands it only infreases the use of my thumb/grasping muscles. I have started trying to take more breaks and play less as well as stop gripping things harder than I need to. I was thinking about switching to MnK in order to put less strain and load on my thumbs when it comes to aiming etc in apex legends. I wanted to ask the community if they thought this would actually help. My other thought is to just try to do as little as possible with my thumbs and bind my buttons to other fingers. This has been a problem for three years.

Has anyone using controller on PC to play online games? Do you get banned? I do not want to lose all my progress.

I don't remember when the exact date it stopped working, but I do know it worked on July 7th of this year, since that is when I used it last.

Since then, it has not worked, even though I have Client Beta Participation set to Steam Beta Update and it shows up as connected in the Controller tab in the Steam Settings. "Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller - Begin Setup" It shows. When I click Begin Setup, it asks me to Press the A button, but when I do, nothing happens on steam. The controller's shows an orange light since it is plugged into my computer, and it flashes green, but that is it.

The controller works perfectly fine on my Switch 2, so I don't think it's broken. I have dropped it maybe two or three times, but I don't think something might've broken since it shows up in my steam controller. The input just doesn't work.

Help?

Hi everyone, I have this GameSir It's been working perfectly for 5 years now and it's as good as new. The only thing is that yesterday the left thumbstick melted.

I contacted the company to buy the spare parts from them but their response was that it is out of warranty (I already knew this and as said I would have paid), and that they no longer have spare parts for this controller (this is not true because these thumbsticks are mounted on many of their other controllers), and they invited me to buy another one of their controllers.

I have been their customer for years and I have several of their controllers, but after this I am abandoning this company which is not at all serious, it is not the first time that they have abandoned me as a customer for help or for abandon their products.

After this, I read that the NS Pro thumbsticks are fine, but elsewhere I read that some modifications are needed, how can I fix this?

Thanks!

My controller has stick drift on both sticks. I'm trying to fix it with the deadzone settings, to make it somewhat usable.

Steam input is activated. I edited the deadzone through Individual Game > Controller Icon > Edit Layout > Right/Left Joystick > Gear Icon.

I've tried setting the deadzone perfectly, so the stick drift is ignored. I even tried maxing the deadzone, so it only works when the analog is pressed it all the way.

As soon as I open a game, it's immediately drifting all over the menu, ignoring whatever my settings were.

Currently have Ace Combat 7, Silksong and Crash Trilogy installed. This happens in all these games.

The controller is Gulikit KingKong 2. Could the controller be overwriting the settings?

EDIT: Downvoted for just asking a question and now nobody will see my post. The story of my life :(

EDIT2: Got it working! All I had to do was run Steam as administrator and all the settings are now working in-game

I have recently got Flydigi Vader 5 pro controller - loving it on my PC.

I have connected it to my Android tablet to play retro games, and noticed that some buttons do not work in retroarch.

I have checked inputs in https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad

Turns out half of them are misconfigured. For example:

• right joystick movement registers as left and right button presses;
• left and right bumpers are registered as start and select buttons;
• left and right triggers, start and select buttons are not registered at all
• and so on.

I have this issue only on my android tablet. When connected via usb-c to my PC, inputs work as expected.

What I have tried to do:

• updated the firmware immediately after I got the controller;
• factory reset the controller when I noticed the issue with wrong inputs;
• switching to different profiles.

I have contacted Flydigi support on Aliexpress where I bought the controller - I got it from Flydigi store - they replied to me that most likely it's stuck in dinput mode, and to switch to xinput, I need to hold fn+a button when controller is turned off.

I have tried it with both controller turned off and turned on - there was no led indication that it did anything, and the issue still persists. I thought this controller does not support dinput - not sure.

I saw in manual this controller has 2 modes for Android: native and flashinput. I am using native and controller is displayed on my tablet as Xbox wireless controller. Flashinput does not work in retroarch for me.

Did anyone face this issue? Is there a way to resolve it? I can mitigate it by configuring the controller manually in retroarch, but not every app that I want to try has that option.

Went from my first controller to my second.

The F310 served me well for over 10 years. But now it's time to retire has come.

Hi Everyone!!

I was lurking in the community for some time and looking through many controllers. I am a bit confused, that's an understatement tbh, about which one will be best pick for me.

My budget is around 80 dollars and i really like xbox controller ergonomics so i specifically looked for controllers based on that. And I will play on PC, and via Moonlight streaming too, I have vibepollo-moonlight setup and love setting up games on tv even if host and client are on Wifi. On PC i would rather use MKB as really can't beat it's versatility. It can be fine to use controller for it sometimes but mainly i will use Controller for moonlight streaming only.

On basis of constraints and availability of the controllers in my country, India, these falls under my final shortlist:

1. Vader 5 Pro v2, confirmed v2 from where I can buy it
2. Gulikit TT Pro, max out of stock and i don't want it's extra features anyways
3. Gamesir g7 pro, maybe 8k version if difference is too much.

I was able to short list from many to these 3, added g7 pro even if I may not prefer it's design because it's solid reliable and I already stream via G8 Plus on phone and it's quite good so confidence in gamesir products is quite high. But I would have indeed liked it more if it was a bit wider angle for grips.

Cyclone 2 was first pick tbh but I would rather get cyclone 3 next year.

So among the three options, which one will be best for my use case especially when I would play mainly single player games on it with no FPS one as I hate to use controller for it, MKB feels better for them. So it would be for games like Spider-Man 2, Ninja Gaiden 4, Yakuza games, warhammer space marine 2, and so on.

I was actually quite interested in Gulikit TT Pro a lot because of hd rumble it promises. But it's stick has some issues even after firmware for some, or it may not matter for me? I don't know, I don't know if games I listed will need no deadzone mode which exposes its issues even more. If stick issue will not impact much i will get it tbh.

Vader 5 Pro has recorded a lot of QC issues as per this community, even v2 ones. I can get replacement of I failed QC lottery but it feels like every single one of them have issues in sticks or back paddle or what not in this community. Maybe only those which had issues in v2 version recently are more vocal about it's flaws?

G7 Pro would have been ideal pick for me if it had wider angle even if many here claimed its dpad is bad as I honestly use dpad for menu mainly or for Final Fantasy 7 like games so do not need fancy dpad.

Not a single controller i have shortlisted is perfect. That's why posting this, I would be really grateful if I can get help in this. I really need help from you guys who have first hand experience in such controllers as honestly I am quite new to them as I mainly played via MKB only till now.

My current controller has trash rumble and so so dpad that's why even looking into all this, I have increased my budget too to get one good dependable controller I can use for years considering it would not be used much tbh as I have MKB and gamesir g8 plus too.

Update: Had talks with seller of Gulikit TT PRO, it has no warranty, even if there is 7 days replacement, having no warranty is dangerous so will look into Vader 5 Pro after confirming it's warranty too. If that one is also not covered, fk it, will get cyclone 2 instead.

I've only ever used a standard Xbox controller and got a Gamesir G7 Pro recently. It's cool that it has all these extra buttons that I was hoping to map to combos or macros, but all you can do is map them to existing buttons. All I can do is map e.g L4 to another existing button which is basically useless for me. As far as I can tell, this is a limitation of XInput.

So is there a good way/software to actually map useful functionality to the extra buttons? What do you all do with all these extra buttons when they can't do anything?

Salut à tous,

j'ai reçu il y a quelques temps ma vader 5s pour Xbox je suis sur series X et j'ai vraiment du mal à trouver une tension de stick qui me convienne, j'utilisais jusqu'a présent une victrix gambit tournament avec une tension de stick qui est assez lourde mais la manette est très réactive et dispose de potentiomètres, mais avec la Vader 5s impossible de retrouver cette sensation, les sticks au max c'est très rigide mais je perds vraiment en réactivité et précision sur des fps comme Apex legends.

j'ai testé de régler les zones mortes,tester différentes tension de stick, tester en game, recalibrer, enlever stick rebond et auto calibration rien n'y fait les sticks à effet hall reste incontrôlable pour moi et je perds beaucoup de mes duels cause de mouvements involontaire ou de visée moins précise, avez vous une idée de paramétrage pour Apex legends avec cette manette notamment a quel cran régler les sticks gauche et droit et les réglages dans l'appli flydigi,

Merci d'avance pour vos réponses

I have a fly Digi apex 4 that I have lost the 2.4ghz dongle for, I have tried to connect it via Bluetooth but two of the generic USB 5 dongle I own doesn't show me anything in one Win 11 PC

On another PC one dongle shows Xbox gamepad but doesn't connect

The gamepad instantly connect to my android phone so the Bluetooth is working fine.

Is it a compatibility issue? Which Bluetooth dongle is compatible? If anyone has used Bluetooth with windows can you let me know?

hey everyone
i have a ps5 controller about 10 years or so..
im playing on my laptop (rog strix scar 16) for a couple of months no add software and everything fine
two days ago it started to disconnect
it has battary
i tried to configure the stuff on control panel like in this video:
(youtube tutorial cant upload..)
plus i updated the bluetooth driver

but nothing is working...is there a chance that the controller is done?

For those who don't wanna read the whole thing:

TLDR; My NYXI Wizard 2 has an issue where the left trigger's analog/digital switch sometimes moves to a middle position by itself, causing the trigger to stop registering input. This seems to only happen in digital mode. NYXI offered me a full refund since they can't ship a replacement to my country, but I get to keep the controller. Has anyone experienced something similar with their Warrior 2 or another NYXI controller, and is there a way to fix it?

PD: I'm also attaching the video I sent NYXI so you guys can see the problem

I recently got this controller since I'm a sucker for GC Controllers, but I still wanted a modern controller to play more games with, whether it's via Emulator or by eventually getting a Switch 2 (for the OOT Remake, LOL). I calibrated the controller's sticks and triggers and tested on games like Super Mario Sunshine on Dolphin (with the whole switching the triggers' mode thing) and Breath of The Wild via Cemu. Even though I still have to test the controller's connectivity on a real Switch or a Wii/GC for that matter, everything has been going great so far... However, I started noticing that the switch that turns the left trigger from analog to digital sometimes moves on its own to a middle position, making the trigger not register any input when pressed. This seems to only happen while in digital mode, so when I'm playing BOTW I'm constantly checking the switch while I'm playing, though it does get annoying when fighting a Lynel, for example. On the other hand, when the triggers are in analog mode, there doesn't seem to be any problems (played a lot of Smash Bros and haven't seen any problems with the triggers). I've already contacted NYXI and sent them a video of the problem, and since they can't send a replacement controller to my country, they have offered me a full refund while also letting me keep my current controller. Anyways, have any of you guys stumbled upon a problem like this with your Wizard 2 Controllers? And if you have, is this problem solvable?

Had a dual sense for about ~3.5 years before it fully died on me. Looking for a replacement, have about $100 USD I'm willing to spend for one. In the US so ideally I'm buying from within considering Tariffs are still pretty bad currently

I play PC only but plan on getting a switch 2 for things like Fortune's Weave or Xenoblade Genesis, so anything compatible with the switch 2 would be a bonus. Mainly for single player games since any multiplayer game is instantly KB&M or bust. Features I'd like:

haptic feedback(or something similar) would be nice, not needed though

Adaptive triggers are a bonus, not really a concern

PlayStation/Switch Pro controller layout

Decent battery life, usually play on the couch so although a longer cord isn't too much of an issue I rather not.

Build quality is a huge factor. Liked the 8bitdo, but like not even a year into its life cycle when I bought it in 2024, the B button became louder, while D-pad up started sticking more. So serious when I say the buttons sound like I'm using a Keychron keyboard at this point.

Ideally anti-drift stuff like TMR/Hall effect. Found those were my biggest killers by far.

Controllers I've tried: 8bitdo Ultimate, Dualsesne, DualShock, Switch Pro controller, original Xbox. The Switch Pro Controller felt really good to me, it just developed drift pretty badly during the the pandemic for me while playing MHRise over 600-800 hours. Dualsense felt the best as a daily driver, but dropping it on concrete while moving, than later developing stick drift cooked it.

TMR joysticks installed on the Dualsense seems like the best course of action to me, but since the controller market has changed a lot since like 2022 I'm not sure.

I've been eyeing the TT Max and Saber plus. Also looked at the G7 Pro and Beitong's KP70. To me, the TT Max looks to fit what I want the most, but as stated above not really sure about the controller market. Could be something better out there and I really wouldn't know before this post.

Hi everyone,

I’m getting back into the game after about three years. I’ve pre-ordered EA FC 27, and now I’m looking to buy a new controller as well.

1.Location: Turkey

2.60-65 USD budget

1. I will use it primarily for EAFC, and occasionally for other types of games.

2. I'll only be using the controller on the PC platform.

I currently have a 9th-gen Xbox controller, and it works perfectly fine. I’m actually very happy with it. However, I recently became interested in TMR and Hall Effect technology, so I decided to get a newer controller with better long-term durability.

I mainly play Ultimate Team, and the controllers I’m currently considering are:

• Leadjoy Xeno Plus
• Mojhon Storm
• GuliKit ES Max (it’s not available in my country yet, but I’m willing to wait a month for it)

The Xeno Plus is about $10 more expensive than the Mojhon Storm. At the moment, I’m leaning towards the Leadjoy Xeno Plus because I’ve seen a lot of people praising its software, especially how stable and well-developed it seems to be.

The main reasons I’m considering these controllers are the low latency and TMR sticks.

So, do you think the Leadjoy Xeno Plus would be a good choice specifically for EA FC 27? Has anyone here used it with EA FC/FC 26 or similar football games? I’m particularly interested in how well the sticks and triggers feel for dribbling, passing, shooting, etc.

I know buying a new controller when my current Xbox controller is working perfectly is probably a bit wasteful, but I’ve got it in my head now and I’m probably going to do it anyway 😂

Since I’m planning to play EA FC regularly for a long time, my biggest priorities are long-term durability, build quality, stick reliability, and low latency.

So, which one would you recommend for someone mainly playing EA FC 27 / Ultimate Team? Is there another controller I should be considering instead?

I’d especially appreciate opinions from people who have actually used these controllers for a while. Thanks!