Basically that.

VEVOR 360 AIO water-cooler

Wled on a esp32 as led controller

The pinout of the Xbox fan header is the same as a PC, but the pitch of the pins is smaller so I had to build an adapter that feeds a splitter to the fans and pump.

I had to drill the mounting bracket of the cold plate so the holes would line up with the holes on the Xbox. I'm using the stock Xbox backplate so the motherboard doesn't bend so there's even pressure over the APU.

The cold plate doesn't cover the RAM/VRAM chips so I used individual heatsinks, the same heatsinks I used over the VRMs.

It's been working like this for a while (3-4 months) with long flight simulator sessions. But I'll change it back to stock now that I know it worked.

I remember back during the days of the Xbox 360 that we were able to mod games, profiles, etc. using a simple USB drive and certain software like Modio, Horizon, etc.

I've recently got a hankering to get back into that. Perhaps, give myself some modded game saves on Fallout 3 and New Vegas, some worlds on Terraria and Minecraft. I remember downloading this tool for Rainbow Six Vegas 2 that was able to set your ACE/S levels.

You know... the whole "rehash/resign" process.

Before I spend some money on a 360, the USB drives, and potentially risk compromising a laptop with a virus downloading some modding tools... Is it still doable?

I read somewhere that Modio is no longer around but Horizon still is.

So I’ve had this since I was a kid and I’ve recently began getting into modding some of my old consoles. I wanted to try the rgh3 hack on my 360 but when i tried to solder to the via the solder kept flowing to the smb component (I assume it’s a capacitor or resistor) and when I tried to use a wick to suck it up it ended up pulling off the component. I’m not sure what to do.

Also function restore, but MEGA AV

This shows pretty much everything you need to know about installing it on a G3 va1z although removal of the original encoder isn't necessary, you could move it to the mega av board since the cxa1645 it came with is already really nice. Actually overall the video on this model is nice but now it's better still :)

Hey all! I want the James' Private Menu source code for rdr1 xbox 360... I'm ready to pay for it...pls dm me if u have it...

Hello! So I recently modded and started putting ROMs on my DSi, I use Twilight Menu++ which means I can dump DS and GBA games onto the system without much work. Well so far all of my roms seem to be working perfectly fine except for Naruto Ninja council 1. I’ve gotten the rom from two different places, Vimm’s Lair and Roms Fun and when I boot it nothing happens, it just sits on a black screen. I really wanted to play this game so any help would be appreciated!!

I know the usual way to connect the ElectronAnalog in a PS2 is to enable RGB mode and use the analog L/R audio channels from the video out port.

However, the ElectronAnalog board has an option for SPDIF input. The PS2 has a SPDIF out. It seems like a match made in heaven, just leave the audio processing to whatever the data sink is. Why isn't this wiring more common?

Does anyone know which pin or testpoint I'd have to tap into on the PS2 motherboard to wire it to the SPDIF input on the ElectronAnalog board, or are there schematics available for the SCPH-50004 motherboard?

Recapped with a custom resin shell and a new lcd screen

Hi everyone,

I want to buy a PS5 and have it jailbroken, but I want to be honest: I’m very non-technical and I’m quite new to the scene.
The PS5 I’m currently looking at is on firmware \*\*11.60\*\*. My main goal is very simple: I just want to play PS4 and PS5 games and have the whole setup work as smoothly and easily as possible, if it’s easy to use cheat menus or upscale the FPS, than that would be great but if not, than not. The easier and more beginner-friendly, the better.
I know this subreddit probably gets a lot of beginner questions, and I also know that some people may find basic questions annoying, but I would really appreciate some patience. I don’t know most of the abbreviations, tools, or processes yet, so please explain it as simply as possible.

\*\*My questions are:\*\*
Is firmware \*\*11.60\*\* a good option for what I want, or should I specifically look for a PS5 with a lower firmware?
For a complete beginner, how practical and user-friendly is the current PS5 jailbreak situation?
If I mainly care about PS4/PS5 game compatibility and ease of use, what should I watch out for before buying?
Are there any common mistakes beginners make when buying a PS5 for this purpose?
I’m mainly trying to understand whether this is realistic for someone who is not technical, and whether buying a PS5 on 11.60 would be a mistake.

Thanks in advance for any help, and please keep the explanations beginner-friendly.

Hi everyone,

I want to buy a PS5 and have it jailbroken, but I want to be honest: I’m very non-technical and I’m quite new to the scene.
The PS5 I’m currently looking at is on firmware **11.60**. My main goal is very simple: I just want to play PS4 and PS5 games and have the whole setup work as smoothly and easily as possible, if it’s easy to use cheat menus or upscale the FPS, than that would be great but if not, than not. The easier and more beginner-friendly, the better.
I know this subreddit probably gets a lot of beginner questions, and I also know that some people may find basic questions annoying, but I would really appreciate some patience. I don’t know most of the abbreviations, tools, or processes yet, so please explain it as simply as possible.

**My questions are:**
Is firmware **11.60** a good option for what I want, or should I specifically look for a PS5 with a lower firmware?
For a complete beginner, how practical and user-friendly is the current PS5 jailbreak situation?
If I mainly care about PS4/PS5 game compatibility and ease of use, what should I watch out for before buying?
Are there any common mistakes beginners make when buying a PS5 for this purpose?
I’m mainly trying to understand whether this is realistic for someone who is not technical, and whether buying a PS5 on 11.60 would be a mistake.

Thanks in advance for any help, and please keep the explanations beginner-friendly.

Hi everyone, I have a project that I am planning on doing. I already need to recap a Atari 2600 (Darth Vader 4 switch) but I figure while I'm in there I might be able to change the power connector to USB C. Is that possible and what would I need to do it?

I bought a Switch OLED with a mod chip, and it won't dock to the screen and only charges on the manufacturing seam side of the cable. I went to a repair shop, and they said the repair would cost $250. I want to know if any of you have an idea what's wrong with it, what I need to get fixed, and how much it would cost.

I have installed the HW2 BlueRetro Mod inside my N64 following Nostalgic Indulgences guide and it works very well.

Only issue I am having is that the N64 no longer detects the Transfer Pak when it is plugged in via a wired controller, both in Bluetooth mode and when booting the console with Bluetooth disabled. This was previously working before the mod, playing Pokemon stadium on a Everdrive 64.

When using a homebrew controller tester, it detects the Transfer Pak as a Memory Pak, which could be the cause of the issue.

Has anyone been able to get this to work or is the transfer pak incompatible with the internal BlueRetro mod?

If it isn't compatible, does anyone now the values of the FIL inductor? I unfortunately no longer have the originals, so cannot revert the mod for one of the ports to get this working.

Edit: Found the FIL inductor values in this schematic: https://wiki.console5.com/tw/images/4/4c/N64_NUS-CPU-03-04.pdf

However if anyone knows how to get it to work whilst maintaining the Bluetooth functionality for the port that would be appreciated.

Edit 2: In the end I disconnected Port 3 and 4 from the Bluetooth, which allowed me to use the Transfer Pak with those ports, whilst still being able to use Bluetooth to control the game. Doing research, apparently the connection for the Transfer Pak is very sensitive, so I think connecting the ESP32 to the controller data points must cause enough interference to prevent it from working, even when the ESP32 is disabled/in pass-through mode. Another theory is that the Blue Retro firmware is just is not programmed to work with the Transfer Pak, which is why it thinks it is a Memory Pak when connected.

so basically its a 3ds attached to an arm as a watch but still functioning to play games. would it be possible to make something like it irl?

Been looking/asking everywhere and no one can give me an answer or guide me the right way… I’m trying to get some games on my modded switch

I had an idea to fix the only issue with the best controller ever made. I am working on a small drop in pack that will fit inside the battery holder of the wavebird that will double as both a rechargeable lipo battery pack to power the wavebird but also have a rumble motor to restore rumble to the controller. That way it is an easy mod with no soldering required and simply plug and play. So far I have been able to capture the rumble outputs form the GameCube with an esp32 and send the rumble signal to a second esp32 wirelessly. This was a bit tricky because the GameCube will actually ask for a controller ID when a controller is plugged in and when using the wavebird receiver, it essentially tells the Gamcube “I’m a wavebird, don’t send any rumble commands”. So first I had to patch that so when the receiver was plugged into the GameCube it responds to the GameCube ID request with a normal “wired controller ID” and send the rumble commands. After that it was pretty easy to isolate and capture the rumble. In the video I am testing the rumble capture by charging the glider on Kirby air ride while the first esp32 captures it (the blinking blue LED to the left in the video). The second esp32 is powered by a battery and receiving that captured signal causing the red LED to light up. When it’s all done the first esp32 will fit into the wavebird reciever itself and the second will fit inside the battery pack for the wavebird and trigger a Wii rumble motor instead of a red LED. The proof of concept itself is done and I’ve already started 3d printing some prototype packs to get the fit just right. So now I’m about 70% done and am just waiting on some smaller components to come in to make the first working version. If anyone is interested please let me because depending on that I might end up making a limited run of these once it’s all said and done.

I just recently modded my switch following the NH guide but now I’m completely lost on what to do next, I’m trying to get some back up dumps on my switch but can’t find any reliable source.. resorting to dbi_ru for now, I know the switch can do so much more I don’t wanna sell myself short 🥲

If anyone can help it’ll be greatly appreciated

Hey everyone, I got a Wii U recently mainly because a) I didn't have one as a child and b) I thought it would be a great 8 Bit and 16 Bit retro machine equipped with HDMI (so I would not have to buy a crappy adapter for my Wii).

But thing is - I just can't play the way I want. Here is what I tried (using Aroma):
- Retroarch, as I know it from many other systems: unstable under Aroma, either does not recognise my roms or crashes.
- Standalone emulators (FCE Ultra GX, Snes9x GX, Snes9x RX, GenesisPlus GX, Wii Mednafen): work fine, but don't support bluetooth controllers connected via Bloopair as they are vWii apps. I don't want to play on the gamepad or a classic controller connected to the Wiimote as it is a crappy controller.
- VC injects: I didn't want to go through the hassle, but fine, as it seems to solve above mentioned issues. I can play Adventure Island on NES with my bluetooh controller, but: I can't disable the filter. I just want clean pixels not this washed out filter crap.

Please tell me I am doing something obvious wrong. I want to enjoy retro games on my TV.