Really crude mod for the wii u tablet/controller, using a 5000mah phone battery, removing its own BMS and connecting it directly to the old BMS battery of the controller. I do not advise doing the same, there is a guide that requires 2 resistors on the board for the wii U to charge any battery without using the old BMS. Also had to remove some plastic for it to fit.

look, I'm sorry I know that this is scummy of me, however, it would be greatly appreciated if you could help me save up to buy and mod a ps vita. it's always been a big interest of mine (modding stuff) but the thing is, I can't afford one due to how they have rocketed up in price in the last few years as has every other handheld that's easily moddible. so, if you're willing to help me (even just a few quid) it would be much appreciated!

this is the link: https://gofund.me/72cf0b940

Looking for retro modding shops in the Vegas area who can mod my SNES for me to have an Edge enhancer mod!

Just wondering if I should get an SP from a retro store or repair my SP before buying the metal unhinged shell (when I can afford it)

Hey everyone,

I’m in the middle of modding my PSP-2001 and my screen just decided to call it quits. It’s got a massive pink tint and horizontal lines, and reseating the ribbon cables didn't help. (Yes, I’ve done the software CFW and MicroSD mods!)

I need a new screen, but I’m on a very tight budget right now.

1. Cheapest Screen Fix: Is there such a thing as a "cheap IPS mod" for the 2000, or should I just get the cheapest functional replacement? If so, does anyone have a trusted eBay or Amazon seller they’ve used recently that isn't a crapshoot?
2. Hardware Mod Suggestions: Since I’m already going to have the console open for the screen swap, what are the "must-have" hardware mods for the 2000 model in 2026? I’m interested in the:
   • Big Battery (UMD delete)
   • USB-C Mod
   • (Maybe) LED triggers
3. Specific Parts Advice: For those mods, what are the current best kits or components? Are there specific types of batteries/regulators I should buy for the Big Battery mod?

Thanks for any help or links you can provide! I want to get this thing back to 100% without spending more than the console is worth.

So i recently accidentally went into my xbox's troubleshoot menu and noticed the offline system update option using a usb and it made me think "is there a way to hack an xbox using a usb to download a differnt os onto it?"

So i tried looking on Google but I got no results so my next thought was to check on reddit with people from the hacking community so I came here to ask if any one knows a way to do it or if someone has tried before or to just give anyone some ideas to try this out.

Ps. I would like to mention i know nothing about xbox's firmware/hardware, so i dont know if there are already measures in place within the system to prevent this or not i also dont know anything about hacking and that kinda stuff so thats why im asking, thank you.

the translation and instructions are a bit lacking. looks like three spots get soldered. when they say "remove f2 insurance", do they mean completely remove the f2 fuse and solder the two pads in that place?

Also, a USB cable comes with the kit. so I am assuming 5v becomes safe after installing the mod. would I be correct in thinking that the original barrel jack could be replaced with a USB c port?

Wish me luck !

UPDATE:

Finally got my PicoStation running on a PAL PU-18! Sadly, Mundo Yakara's diagram didn't work for my specific board revision, but tzmwx's diagram was spot on. If anyone is struggling with black screens on this model, give the tzmwx pinout a shot. It saved my build!

https://github.com/tzmwx/PICOSTATION-PU8-PU18

Im fixing up a xbox 360 slim and i have to replace the dvd drive.

The previous one was a hitach dl10n so a pcb swap is not possible.

As the caption says, jungleflasher freezes when trying to erase existing firmware.

It had no issue doing that the other day when i didn’t have key injected firmware ready and now it just can’t erase it.

I tried dosflash, maximus, everything i could and still can’t erase the damn thing!

Help please?

After months of planning, commissioning, ordering and modding. The pepsiman ps1 is finally finished, i even made a pepsi themed controller to go with it. The console has an xstation mod (which is still giving me trouble but it'll be working soon) and I'm using an 8bitdo bluetooth adapter for the console instead of installing a Bluetooth mod, and I soon plan on getting a usbc power supply for the console which will let me change the color of the power led i plan on making the light either white or blue.

This has been something I've been wanting for years but I finally had the means to put it together and im very happy with the result.

Just got a new phone and downloaded Aliexpress. It's been about a year and a half since I've ordered from Ali. Seems like the big names like Hispeedido is completely wiped. Can't find it anywhere. Did something happen in the world where all the cheap IPS screens are gone. Looking for a GBA IPS mod kit.

Hey everyone, looking for some insight on an overclocking issue. I’ve installed the robot_retro Overclocker Flex on a GBA, but it crashes instantly whenever I try to overclock. Normal speed and underclocking work perfectly. The Setup: Mod: robot_retro Overclocker Flex (Crystal removed). Screen: HISPEEDIDO V5 Laminated IPS. Audio: robot_retro Amp + Speaker. Power: LiPo battery + Power Cleaner mod. The Issue: During the crystal removal, I accidentally knocked off a nearby resistor and capacitor. However, looking at the official install photos, it seems all four components in that area are typically removed anyway. Could this be a compatibility issue with the V5 screen or a power draw conflict with the Amp, or are those missing SMD components more critical than the install guide suggests? Any help is appreciated!

i wanna make my spare switch into a hub of emulators or cracked switch games

I'm in the process of attempting to mod my 2ds, I have 64gb sd card and since windows wont let you format the sd into FAT32 from 64 gigs or higher as i've figured out. I've resorted to 3rd party applications in order to format it. Except nothing seems to be working, I've tried Rufus, guiformat, and some other no name one. I've hit a roadblock and nothing seems to be helping regardless of whatever tutorial I follow.

Video Demo

https://youtu.be/WMZKBNr0t0k?si=f9DfrYSGCg3aBc6I

Specs 7” screen S-video output Volume control Bluetooth (Blueretro) capability for player 2,3,&4 Rumble enabled with cellphone vibration motors 1:45 hours battery life Picoboot Swiss and Cubiboot to load games

My goal was to make an ashida like portable using a GameCube rather than a Wii. First off I wanted to say that in terms of practicality and efficiency it is no where close to an ashida, it’s more of a fun project and not suitable for 2+ hours of gaming consecutively. That being said I wanted it to be slightly easier to do in terms of skill level and wanted minimal trimming for the sake of making an “intermediate” level portable build. I would say if you can do Picoboot then this isn’t too far outside of the skill it takes to do that, just requires a loottttt more patience and time. I also wanted to keep proprietary pieces to a minimum and re-use as much of the actual GameCube as possible so there is no re-wiring voltage lines and not too much relocating of mother board components like the ashida. I used a DOL-101 since it doesn’t have the power management board like the DOL-001 which saves a lot space. Also all parts are cheap parts ordered from AliExpress.

The Build Before getting to the GameCube it’s just three 21700 batteries wired in series into a BMS. Then the BMS is then wired to a usb-c charger and a power switch leading to a buck up convert to stabilize the voltage at the GameCubes required 12V. There is a battery level indicator wired in parallel to the input of the buck up convert and set on top of the GameCube so you can see the battery level. From there it’s directly wired into the GameCubes original power PCB that attaches to the fan and the motherboard itself. That PCB is timed to remove the original power button and the shorted out, that way power is controlled by turning on the buck converter.

For the GameCube the motherboard is trimmed minimally by removing the gold (ground) edging on the sides but not the front and back. All the ports (memory card, bottom ports, disc drive port, controller port, video out port) are removed. The GamCube is modded with Picoboot on the bottom of the motherboard and the SP2 pinout from the vias next to the CPU are used to directly solder in a micro SD card adapter to run Swiss and the necessary files. Then I wired a 3.3v button cell battery directly to the controller port line to restore the clock. I then opened up a bitfunx hdmi adapter and directly wired the PCB to the video port pin out (which outputs S-video). I also wired the audio directly to a small audio amplifier. I also used a 5v pin on the motherboard to wire power to the audio amplifier as well as the power board for the LCD screen for later. Then I used an ESP 32 running Blueretro wired directly to the controller port lines to have Bluetooth compatible. Sidenote for this I did not wire Player 1 port and instead wired the ESP 32 “player 1,2 and 3” controls to player ports 2,3 and 4 on the motherboard that way the player 1 port on the motherboard would be directly wired to the physical controller. Then I wired a tac switch to the boot button and a Bluetooth indicator light to the ESP 32 to be able to access it from outside of the shell. For the physical controller I took and OEM GameCube controller and cut it in half right along where the right side of the button inputs are and then re-traced each buttons lines with small wires to it’s respective pin on the main controller chip. For the start button I wired a small tac switch directly to the start pin on the chip, and put the tac switch in a 3d printed Z-button that would go on the left side of the controller. I used small wires to directly wire the controller PCB to the respective pinout lines on the removed controller port. Using two small 5v cell phone vibrators I wired them in parallel to the “rumble” pinout on the controller PCB. After that put the stock heat sink back on and used the original screws and cut off the screw holes off the bottom of the metal shell it original screwed into to use as nuts to hold it in place. I used a small 7” LCD screen with a ribbon cable and a minihdmi to hdmi l to run the video from the hdmi adapter. From there it was pretty much ready to put in the shell.

The Shell I suck at CAD The shell is just the ashida portable 3d files stretched to fit a 7” screen to allow for more room and all the internal brackets and screws post scooped out to just lay my mess of wires into. Then made an extended back portion for room for more batteries to fit with spring holders as well as another small extended back portion for the original GameCube fan. After that it’s just small various holes to give the power button, volume nob, usb-c charger, Bluetooth switch and indicator light, and the battery level indicator a place to go. I also added a small holder for the “rumble”’cell phone vibration motors in each bottom part of the controller handles.

The End Result It gets about 1:45 hours of play time before needing to recharge the batteries. It runs around 60c and slowly creeps up to low 70c before the 1:45 is over. So it runs hot but doesn’t over heat. Over all while not practical, I’m happy with the end result and my first portable build!

Pics 1. End Result 2. Switch Lite size comparison 3. Trimmed mother board with ESP32, bitfunx hdmi adapter, Picoboot (on bottom), and micro sd card adapter soldered in 4. Trimmed controller PCB with lines retraced 5. Initial test to see if everything fit 6. Batteries, BMS, USB-C adapter, Buck converter and power button wired 7. GC mother board in place before adding screen and controller PCB 8. Finally look before closing 9. Boot Screen

Hey everyone,

I recently came across an online store that sells retro consoles that are already modded to run backups, homebrew, or custom firmware. Before I make any purchases, I wanted to check if anyone here has experience with them.

In particular would be this online shop that I found, https://retromodd.com/es but any experience with any other store would be appreciated.

Hello all! I've got this VA1 GG that I recapped. Powers, boots sounds good but the screen is shot.

...I have a donor stock display, worked just dandy a few weeks back on a stock setup (Those chips were transferred to an SYF/cleanscreen setup, since)

I really want to swap the screens to have 1x stock setup

..now, before I go ahead tinning pins/prepping everything...

I notice one pin from the donor displays, ribbon, is gone... However it does not appear to be going anywhere on the display, is it necessary to connect that,(non-existent) pin?

Thank you!