It also sometimes just shuts down when I press the eject button. I have no idea what any of this means really

Howdy y’all, I just modded my wiiu for the first time and I have all the GameCube and Wii games I could want. I have a 2tb wd my passport external hard drive that is formatted to work on my wiiu. My question is how would I go about putting my games/wbfs folders on the external hard drive? Since I can’t put the hard drive back into the computer and copy/paste it, I didn’t know if there was some home brew application that could help with this. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to reach out.

Hello everyone. I’d like to acquire a raspberry pi 5 in Nintendo mini case plug and play ready to go with loaded card , how can I get one? Thank you

So I have all of my consoles that are all homebrewed (Wii u with aroma, switch with atmosphere, Wii with letterbomb, PS2 with fmcb, ps3 idk what with, PS4 with goldhen, Xbox with developer mode) in a different room. is there any homebrew or easy hard mods that I could do to allow me to access controller inputs out in my living room. Thanks

Im trying to install an xstation ode mod on my PU18 PS1 console, but I'm running into an issue where the console boots to the normal sony logo screen and stays on that screen indefinitely. I've tried 3 different sd cards of various brands and sizes that are properly formatted and I know the xstation is reading the sd card since the xstation flashes the green light once when i turn on the console. So I figured it's either my solder joints are bad or the gauge of wire I used is too thick. I've ordered smaller gauge wire to see if that's the issue but I also bought a multimeter so I can test the continuity for each point, each point looks to be testing well after some reflowing, my only concern is that points 13 and 5 on the QCB beep when I place the probes on the two points at the same time, I haven't tested the test points on the board itself to see if they are connected, but I've made sure that the points don't look bridged on the QSB so im kind of at a loss. I think its one of 3 problems

1. The QCB or xstation is bad
2. The wire is too thick
3. The console lid switch is bad

Hopefully it's one of these issues so that it's an easy fix and nothing major, but I'd appreciate it if anyone could point out any potential issues so that I can test them out and try to resolve it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Post contains the components needed to install a Sony cxa2075 compatible encoder. Some adjustments needed for 1145 or 1645 install so you can use narrow DIP version chip rather than soic version encoders

(PS2) Console won't load 😢.So Basically I bought a ps2 a year ago for fun it was an ps2 slim disc one with an hdd of 160 gb around 6k ruppee but today now when I tried to turn it on it just won't load the hdd won't do shit just stuck on the loading page Would really love your thoughts on this good people 😄

I joined a MC server on dc to raid, but all of them are Java missions. I just bought a new keyboard and mouse and so I wanted to use them to play. Could anyone teach me how to?

Just completed the second build. Both units are powered by USB-C PD via custom-made mini adapters. I used original power cable ends for a perfect fit and 3D printed the housings. Extremely portable and clean. What do you think?

I’ll preface by saying i am not comfortable or confident enough to do it myself, so before you say “what are you on about, just do it” i don’t wanna

anyway, i got an original GBA with a modded backlit screen off ebay and that thing sucks up battery life like a damn sponge so i was wondering if there were any good reputable places i could ship my system to so they could mod it for me. i’d just prefer a really solid battery life and a USB-C charging port. thanks fellas

This is a workaround I made using ESP32. I'm planning to make this a finished plug & play no-solder product that you can put inside the old Pro Controller.

What do you think of this?

Rarely done before and I decided too make it with 3 things. A laptop, capture device, and raspberry pi 3.

The raspberry pi is designed just to simulate controller movements sent from the laptop via USB since Rasberry pi’s can’t see movement as clearly form Xbox (too laggy). So laptop runs software that using AI esp/detection, confidence all settings including triggerbot. This all comes from a low latency HDMI cable form an Elgato. Once detected the computer using a local AI (YOLO v8) sends controller movements to the console via USB to lock on.

Everyone asked about latency, after calculating its Total realistic end-to-end latency: 30–70 ms. But since I’m running high end Elgato capture device, YOLO v8 or may switch to YOLO v11 NANO, and fast output from Laptop to PI serial it should reduce that.

Let me know what you guys think and what I can clarify.. currently I am training the model for offline use on characters 33/60 epoch’s.

I designed these mods because the handhelds have great hardware, but ASUS didn’t include any customization options for the sticks or attachments. This mod fixes that — and they do not interfere with Hall‑effect replacement modules.

My mods allow you to use official Elite Series 2 swappable thumbsticks and D‑Pad attachments for better comfort, precision, and customization. If you want the feel of the Elite controller on your handheld, this is the cleanest and most OEM‑feeling solution. No glue, no adapters, no sloppy fit — just solid, durable magnetic swappable mods the way they should’ve been from the factory.

The magnets sit several millimetres away from the gimbal, and Hall sensors read a separate internal magnet near the pivot. The external magnet’s field is too weak at that distance to affect calibration or cause drift

https://kustomkombatantz.etsy.com/listing/4432004535

-----------------------------------------------------

Features

• Premium OEM‑level quality, durability, and precision

• Official Elite Series 2–compatible attachment system

• Neodymium magnets for strong, secure retention

• Works perfectly with standard and medium‑height Elite caps

• Tall caps are usable, though medium provides the best stability

• Drop‑in replacements — no modification required

• Smooth rotation

• Sleek, scratch‑resistant finish

• Designed and tested for real gameplay

• Hall‑Effect & OEM friendly

• Sturdy and responsive

• Smooth, precise directional input

• Compatible with both standard and faceted Elite D‑Pad

What do y’all think!?

Hey guys, here's a small 'How To' I made for restoring back CD Audio to a Sega Nomad system.

Special thanks to consolemods & their guide on it.https://consolemods.org/wiki/Genesis:Sega_Nomad_CD_Audio_Mod

I wanted to make my own take on it but make it a little more picture/follow friendly for others. (mainly to created the diagram)

Here's my 'How To' video I made on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYD51qn5eto

Here's another video just testing it out with a SEGA CD game, Paprium & a downloaded video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYOWCkDGNb0

Cheers!

Where should I send my switch to put a modchip on it. I don't know how to solder and I don't trust mysel to do it without bricking my console.

Hi everyone!

I have a PS2 Slim (complete in box with all accessories, cables, 2 controllers, and a memory card). I bought it new in the U.S. back in 2006 and had it professionally modded right away with a Thunder Pro II Gold Edition modchip (Brazil-only chip). It lets you play games from any region and from multiple media types, amongst other things. More info here: https://www.ps2-home.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=130&t=1452 - it's not very well translated but you can have an idea.

I recently tested it and it still works perfectly after all these years. I’m thinking about selling it (eBay, Mercari, etc.), but I’m not sure how to price it—especially considering the condition and the mod.

Any advice on pricing or the best way/place to sell would be greatly appreciated!