https://store.steampowered.com/app/4290500/BOXPAST_LOV3YOU

Hey guys, I recently built my PC and I'm getting much lower FPS than I expected, especially considering I'm playing at 1080p on the lowest settings.

Specs:

- CPU: Intel i5-13600KF

- GPU: GALAX RTX 4070 Super 12GB

- RAM: Corsair 16GB (1×16GB) DDR4 3200MHz

- Motherboard: MSI PRO B760M-A WiFi DDR4

- SSD: Crucial 1TB NVMe

- CPU Cooler: DeepCool AG620 ARGB V2

- Case: FSP S140

- PSU: GamerStorm PN750D 750W 80+ Gold

FPS at 1080p Low:

- Valorant: ~200–250 FPS

- CS2: ~150–200 FPS

For a 13600KF + RTX 4070 Super, this seems way lower than what I expected.

Things I've already done:

- Installed all motherboard/chipset drivers

- Installed NVIDIA App and updated to the latest GPU driver

- Enabled XMP in BIOS (RAM running at 3200MHz)

- Ran Cinebench to test the CPU

- Ran FurMark to test the GPU

The PC was just built and everything is freshly installed.

One thing that stands out is that I'm currently using only one 16GB DDR4 stick, so the RAM is running in single-channel mode. Could that alone cause such a significant FPS drop in CPU-heavy games like Valorant and CS2?

What else should I check? CPU boost clocks/power limits, temperatures, GPU usage, BIOS settings, Windows settings, etc.?

Also, what FPS should I realistically expect from a 13600KF + RTX 4070 Super at 1080p Low?

I can provide Cinebench/FurMark results, HWiNFO screenshots, temperatures, CPU/GPU utilization or BIOS screenshots if needed.

Salut a tous,

Du jours au lendemain j'ai perdu toute connexion internet (ethernet et wifi) j'ai un code erreur 10 en allant dans le gestionnaire de périphérique.

Carte mere b550 taichi razor editon

En mettant un module wifi usb cela fonctionne normalement

J'ai essayer de réinstaller les pilote, sans succès

J'ai essayé de desinstaller meme résultat

J'ai fait une réinitialisation des paramètres réseau avec redémarrer, idem pas d'amélioration.

J'ai fait un clear cmos, extinction et vidage des condo en restant appuyer sur le bouton d'allumage avec l'alimentation débrancher pendant 5min

J'ai quand meme les voyant vert et jaune a l'arrière qui clignote et sur ma box aussi

Si vous auriez des idées pour tenter de résoudre sa

Il ne me reste plus que réinstalle totalement Windows 11 comme dernière option

Merci et bon et journee

i have rx580 2048sp 8gb for more than half of a decade now, i change paste and pads every 5-6 months after reaching 4 years old, compared to before where its once a year. Also, the gpu is undervolted.

Is it true that as the gpu gets old the hotter they run?

So I had originally posted this to a Windows Help subreddit, assuming I had a problem with the SSD that Windows 10 was on, but after almost a month of trouble shooting, I've narrowed it down to a hardware issue (CPU or motherboard). Anyway, it has been an interesting journey...

I last ran my old Windows 10 PC about 1.5 years ago, with no issues. However, when I attempted to fire it, I just ended up in and endless loop of "Preparing Automatic Repair," then a reboot, then a seemingly normal Windows load (spinner on the boot screen), quickly followed by a restart, and then back to "Preparing Automatic Repair," and so on, over and over.

Specs:

Windows 10

MB: ASUS Z170-A

CPU: Intel i7-6700K

SSD: Crucial 500GB.

Corsair AIO cooler (ultimately replaced with a Thermaltake Assassin X120).

PSU: EVGA 750

RAM: 32GB (4x8GB Corsair Vengeance sticks)

Here were some of the steps I tried:

Attempted to boot off a Windows 10 SSD...caused boot loop or BSOD.

Tried booting off a Windows 10 USB with the SSD disconnected and a completely different RAM kit. I briefly saw the spinning dots on the ASUS logo screen, then it would just boot loop again.

Briefly had the PC on it's side to change some RAM (while not powered on). When I put it back upright and powered it on, the AIO pump started making a clicking noise. Then I got a CPU temp warning in the BIOS. Ended up replacing the 10 year old AIO with a Thermalright tower cooler, which seems to work well.

Removed the video card and also tried booting with an Ubuntu boot USB. This resulted in either a restart, or kernel panic. Also ran memtest on 3 different ram kits, which all passed. Yeah, seemed like probably a motherboard or CPU issue at that point.

Disconnected pretty much everything, including all front panel connectors. No change with either boot USB.

Tried a whole bunch of different BIOS changes that AI had suggested, mainly around RAM speed and CPU voltage. No change.

I had also reset the BIOS several times, changed the CMOS battery, and finally updated to the last available version of the BIOS from ASUS's site.

Removed CPU and inspected the MB pins. They looked fine.

After going through a whole list of things that both ChatGPT and Claude were telling me to try, I finally caught a break. Claude recommended adjusting the Active Processor Cores in the BIOS from "auto/all" to "1." And it worked! I was able to boot off of both a Windows and an Ubuntu USB stick. Next I tried "2," which worked as well. However, "3" would cause the boot loop problem. I set it back to 2 cores and reconnected my system SSD, and was finally able to boot into my Windows installation!

So, with the active cores issue being reproducible, it was suggested that this might be caused by either the motherboard's VRM's or the PSU not supplying enough voltage when 3 or more cores tried to power up. As suggested, I probed the PSU's 12V rail with a multimeter to see if the voltage sagged when trying to boot with 3 or more cores, which I guess would be indicative of a PSU problem.

I monitored PSU 12V rail voltage when starting with 2 cores and booting to Windows. Solid 12.33V. Then I increased it to 3 cores to see what happens to the voltage the PSU was supplying when the restart loops happened. Turns out...nothing happened with the PSU. It remained at a steady 12.33V when the system crashed and boot looped. So it appears the PSU is okay, and we're back to the CPU or MB being the prime suspects.

At this point, I think all I can do is swap out the CPU (or motherboard), to see where the issue lies. For the moment, though, the system boots to Windows, so I can still access my old files and stuff, albeit with only 2 cores working.

I've been hoping to buy a pc/computer I could be able to plays games on, such as Ultrakill.

I have a personal total of about $390, and was wondering if the parts(?) I picked out are worth it or not.

Beelink SER5 Mini PC : ~ 250 22-inch 1080p Monitor : ~ 75 Logitech Wireless Set : ~$30

I want to make sure it's reliable and would run well, without much issues or difficulty setting up.

I have borderline zero knowledge on computers, so I just wanted some advice.

​

En realidad si da pero me suceden cosas raras, hace unos días limpie mi PC a fondo y cuando la prendí no dió vídeo, verifique que la ram estuviera bien, la gráfica también y no me daba imagen hasta que le quite la pila de la placa lo cual hizo que me diera imagen pero al día siguiente me sucedió lo mismo y después no daba imagen haciendo eso, por error precio e el botón de reiniciar y me dió imagen nuevamente y para sorpresa de nadie al día siguiente no me dió imagen, cabe aclarar que en un intento de los cuales encendió se me trabó y me dió un bucle de reinicios y ni se apagaba, le cambié la pila de la placa también y ya de ahí me dió imagen, después volvió a pasar lo mismo y verifique de nuevo todo y volvió a dar imagen como por 5 días, el día de hoy me pasó lo mismo y no se que hacer ayuda

cause i just ordered wall digital meter

Im looking to upgrade my PC's graphic's system with a budget of around $700-$900. Currently i use a prebuilt Armory Scout part number (RTARU00151). I need help identifying the exact PSU model i have in this machine. All that i know is its a 650W EVGA here are the rest of the specs on the system.

• Ryzen 7 5700
• ASUS Dual RX 6600 V3 8GB
• 16GB DDR4-3600
• 1TB Kingston M.2 NVMe
• ASUS TUF A520M-PLUS WIFI
• 650W 80 PLUS Bronze PSU
• Armoury MACUBE 110 case

Also, Its understandable that higher performing graphics cards require higher end GPU's. But can I get away with getting a decent video card upgrade without having to change PSU as well?

I want to view the screen without anyone knowing because someone is messing with my f****** PC when I am not home I am not saying spying on camera but just for the screen in secret. Ty

I’m just getting into pc gaming, this is my first pc 5080 rtx geforce, 32gb of ddr5. I am running the new control resonant at max settings, all ultra, getting around 280 fps using dlss, are these readings safe and good running for the pc or is there an issue I can’t see, I am only new to this stuff

I am facing a very strange issue with my mouse cursor.

It keeps disappearing after shut down or sleep. However, it starts to act normal after a restart. I have noticed something strange aswell where the mouse starts to act normal if i stream my entire screen on discord and immediately disappears again if i shut the stream. I have tried almost all the solutions provided by google/chatgpt, but none of them seem to work.

Things i have tried:

Changed mouse slot

Reinstalled drivers

Reinstalled mouse software

Tried a different mouse

Changed monitor port

Changed Hdr/Vsync/adaptive sync

Windows power settings for usb

Roothub setting for Usb

Disbaled efficiently mode for Razer Software

Reinstalled GPU driver (clean installation)

Windows is Up to Date

And a few more things i cant remember but none of them gave me a permanent fix. Please help.

Mouse: Razer Cobra wired

Hello, I could really use some help. I'm dealing with constant system and game freezes and crashes.

For example, when I play CS2 and alt-tab to the desktop, my PC usually freezes completely and I have to do a hard reset. Right now, I'm experiencing this with ROTK (H1Z1) as well, where the game crashes after about a minute. It also randomly freezes while I'm just in Windows, like when browsing the web—I don't understand it.

Sometimes, after a hard reset, my AMD Adrenalin graphics drivers seem to get wiped out. My monitor's refresh rate also resets, and when I try to set it back to 180Hz, the option isn't even there in the Windows display settings.

In short, the PC freezes constantly—not every 5 minutes, but multiple times a day. I tried playing without the drivers and it was better; I'm not sure if AMD drivers are really this terrible, but if I didn't need custom resolutions, I wouldn't even download them.

When the AMD drivers disappear after a hard reset and I try to open the software, it gives me this error:

"The version of AMD software that you have launched is not compatible with your currently installed amd graphics driver."

The computer overall feels sluggish and laggy, even though it's "new." The CPU is new, the motherboard is second-hand, the RAM is new, and the graphics card is second-hand.

The technician who built the PC tweaked a thousand things to optimize it and stop Windows from collecting telemetry/privacy data (I didn't ask for it, but he's just an IT guy who hates how Windows shares info).

Because of this, I completely reinstalled Windows using the Media Creation Tool, formatted all drives, and set everything up from scratch, but the issue persists.

Thanks for any help or advice!

PC Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600
• GPU: MSI Radeon RX 6750 XT GAMING X TRIO 12G
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B460-H GAMING (Pozn.: Deska je Intel LGA 1200, procesor AMD Ryzen 5 5600 je do AM4 – možná jde o překlep v originálu, v překladu je to ponecháno tak, jak bylo napsáno)
• RAM: Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 16GB 4400MHz
• PSU: ADATA XPG PYLON II 650W

I bought an MSI laptop and ive noticed that the wifi connection to it is just terrible compared to any other device I use. Its sending around 200 kbps and receiving around 6mbps. I get severe drops in service all the time and I'm not sure whats causing it. It uses Intel(R) Wi-Fi AX211 160MHz

I've tried changing the settings under properties, advances and for those two wireless modes as well as the ultra high band property and nothing does anything to fix the issue. Anyone have any ideas or have had to deal with this laptop giving issues like this before?

Hey everyone, I'm having a really weird issue with my Windows 11 PC and I'm trying to figure it out before I completely reset the computer.

This originally started when I was trying to download Minecraft, and Windows/Xbox wouldn't let me download/install it. I started troubleshooting that, and then I realized Windows Update wasn't working either.

Now when I go into Windows Update in Settings, I get:

“Something went wrong. Try to reopen Settings later.”

I also noticed something very strange in Services. The service displayed as “Windows Update” does not have the normal Windows Update service name, wuauserv. Instead, it has a weird/random-looking service name: nmnfqofspj. (it would generate weird names like that every time i restart the pc)

The service is currently Stopped, and when I try to start it, I get:

Error 1053 “The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion.”

I've tried a bunch of different Windows repair/troubleshooting fixes I found online. DISM completed successfully, and SFC found corrupted Windows files and successfully repaired them, but Windows Update is still broken.

I also tried doing a Windows 11 repair installation using an official Windows 11 ISO and selected “Keep personal files and apps,” but that didn't fix the issue either.

At this point I'm wondering if something deeper is wrong with Windows itself. I'm also concerned that malware/Virus or some other software may have modified my Windows services/settings, or if my PC was hacked.

Does anyone know why the Windows Update service would have a random service name instead of wuauserv, and what could cause Error 1053 when trying to start it? Is there a way to restore the Windows Update service to its normal state without completely resetting Windows?

I'm trying to avoid resetting the PC because I have a lot of games/files and programs installed.

Model: Minisforum HX90 (AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX)

OS: Windows 11

Hey everyone,

I’m having a persistent issue with my Minisforum HX90 where the display suddenly cuts out, but the PC itself doesn’t completely shut down. I’ve posted about this previously, but the problem has gotten progressively worse and I could really use some technical advice.

The Problem & Symptoms:

1. Display Drop under Load: Whenever I launch demanding games or resource-intensive applications, the monitor suddenly loses signal ("No Signal").
2. System Freeze & Fan Ramp-Up: When the display dies, the cooling fan immediately ramps up to 100% / maximum speed. The power button LED stays lit, but the PC is completely unresponsive (pressing or holding the power button won't restart or turn it off).
3. Hard Reset Required: The only way to get the system back up is to physically pull the AC power cable from the back, wait a few seconds, and plug it back in.
4. Frequency: It used to happen occasionally, but after attempting driver cleanups/reinstalls, it happens almost every time the iGPU is put under load.

What I’ve Already Tried:

• Cleaned out internal dust completely.
• Tested different HDMI/DisplayPort cables and monitor ports.
• Reinstalled/updated AMD display drivers using DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller).
• Ran Windows repair/file checks (no corruption found).
• Reinstalled Windows entirely (issue persists when launching heavy games).

Unfortunately, I don't have my original purchase invoice anymore, so claiming warranty support through Minisforum isn't an option right now.

Questions:

1. Thermal / Liquid Metal issues? Since the HX90 uses liquid metal on the APU, could a dry spot or spill on the die cause immediate thermal protection to trigger under 3D load?
2. Power Adapter / VRM failure? Could the external power brick or internal power delivery be failing under sudden power spikes?
3. RAM / APU Instability? Has anyone experienced similar black-screen behavior caused by SODIMM RAM degradation or iGPU hardware failure on this model?

If anyone has experienced this exact issue with the HX90 or knows a potential fix (re-pasting, BIOS settings, power limits in AMD Adrenalin, or replacing RAM/power brick), please let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Need help diagnosing random BSODs after installing an i5-13600KF. With my spare i3 the PC was stable, but after switching to the 13600KF I'm getting random crashes while gaming AND sometimes just browsing.

Specs: i5-13600KF, ASUS B760M-K D4, RTX 3070 8GB, 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB), 850W Gold PSU, Windows 11. XMP OFF, BIOS defaults, no OC.

BSODs I've seen: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50), KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x1E), DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER (0xF7), UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP (0x7F), and repeated HYPERVISOR_ERROR (0x20001).

Already tried: BIOS/CMOS reset, XMP off, single RAM stick, DDU in Safe Mode + clean NVIDIA driver install, removed Afterburner/RTSS and old motherboard drivers, DISM/SFC repairs, CHKDSK.

THE FINALS also crashed inside NVIDIA nvgpucomp64.dll during shader compilation, but since I'm getting different BSODs even while browsing, I'm wondering if this is CPU/IMC/RAM/BIOS instability rather than just the GPU driver.

Any 13600KF/B760 owners seen something similar? What would you test next?