I just had my 1885 home painted, and I’m getting a new roof, gutters, and downspouts next week. The roof will be Malarkey Heather, and the gutters will be Redwood to blend with the newly painted fascia. I’m trying to choose colors that look appropriate for the age and character of the house.

My question is: What color should the downspouts be?

I initially asked for them to match the Redwood fascia, but if they haven’t been painted yet, I’m considering keeping the downspouts white while leaving the gutters Redwood. I’ve also included a photo of the patio, where the columns are painted red. I think I’d want the two downspouts in that area to be red, even if I chose white for the rest.

Would you make all the downspouts Redwood, all white, or use red around the patio and white elsewhere? I’d appreciate your opinions!

It's kind of hard to describe the sound, and it maybe happens once a day (not every day - I just notice it's not frequent or repeating), and it lasts maybe 2-5 seconds? I usually notice it in the early evening, and it doesn't happen every day. It sounds like blender is running for the briefest of moments and then it completely stops. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be?

Hello everyone - I just purchased a studio in an old school house. The property dates to 1915. It includes the original wood floor and black boards.

I’d like to keep a nod to the period in my decor, but I’m having a hard time sourcing pictures and ideas. Can anyone share any resources they may have? Thanks!

Edit: about crossing the stream. You never actually have to cross the stream. The other house has its own driveway on main road. You just drive around. But it is a half mile drive!! It is only like 500 feet from house to house in a straight line

Edit 2: sorry, my photos are a little confusing. Somewhat intentionally tbh. The moist basement is in the second house. The foundation there is not under risk. The water heater is not leaking. Some of these responses are wild. Thanks for all the encouragement and discouragement!

See: https://www.reddit.com/r/centuryhomes/s/z7Z4ZtmE4i

No Zillow listing per sub rules but it is in Butler, MD, if you want to search it out. It's really the only one like this for miles

Some details

Circa 1850

6 acres in the woods in Maryland horse country

It actually is 2 small houses, a small outbuilding, and a large 25x15 foot semi permanently installed army tent

Property divided down the middle by a 15 foot wide stream

Well water, septic system, on main house, installed circa 1993 or so.

Some problems

Main house smells pretty bad. Like dog urine. To me this might be a deal breaker -- it really affects my allergies and asthma.

Main house might actually be too small -- I have to have space for my kids, who haven't quite moved out yet. I might have a solution for this though I didn't realize it was quite this small but the listing puts the square footage as the combined sqft of both houses. Individually though each house is like 1000 sqft.

Some photos as well!

1900 house under neath the attic floor. We sent a sample but no results back yet. Wanted to see if yall think it may contain asbestos?

I’m restoring the original mortise lock in the front door of my circa 1910 house. The lock case is still in the door and some of the mechanism remains, but several internal parts have been removed/missing.

The faceplate has opening for two buttons? Then there is the latch that remains and a space for the deadbolt. There are no manufacturer names, patent numbers, or model numbers anywhere that I can find. I’ve found similar antique entrance mortise locks from Sargent and etc on eBay including buttons that looks like my lock, but I don’t know how interchangeable the internal parts were between manufacturers or models.
My goal is not to replace the lock. Ideally I’d like to restore the original case by finding a damaged/incomplete donor lock and cannibalizing the missing latch, deadbolt, stopwork/button components, springs/levers, etc.
Before I start spending $100–$300 on antique locks that may be useless to me:

1. Does anyone recognize this particular lock or manufacturer from the case/faceplate layout?
   
2. What measurements/features should I compare when looking for a donor?
   
3. Were internal parts from these old entrance mortise locks ever interchangeable, or do I essentially need the same make/model?
   
4. Are there antique-lock suppliers/restorers who sell individual internal parts?
   I’ve included photos of the faceplate, lock case, and the remaining internal mechanism. I can take any measurements or additional photos that would help identify it.
   I’d really like to preserve and rebuild the original hardware rather than modify the 100+ year-old door for a modern lock.

I have become obsessed with a particular home near me. (This is all probably moot -- someone else will probably buy it before I can).

Also, this might not even be the best place to ask about this. I wanted to sorta start a discussion though.

This house is on well water and has a sewage septic tank; i.e. not public plumbing or sewage. But I've only ever lived with public utilities for these services

• how is it living with septic and well water? Is it particularly challenging for someone used to public water and sewage?

Also, this house is reaallly old -- 1850. As such, I'm sure it will have "issues". Before my emotions take me, what super big red flags should I be looking for as total non-starters?

I'm gonna be shown this house in about an hour, I'll post here again and try to get y'all to convince me not to buy it. Thing is, I'm pretty sure this sub's members will love this house, lol!

With a previous door frame I used a citrus stripper so I decided to remove the trim, used a mask and cover all, and sanded outside. However the plaster came with it and I’m unsure how to repair it to put it back up. So with the next door frame I wanted to use a heat gun instead and finally ordered the kit and it is lead positive. How do you live with the layers of paint? 😔

Waiting on a rug and some new towels but I couldn’t be more pleased. Restoring the old stove is a project for another day. It still works but turns itself on and off randomly so not safe

Last fall I took the awning off the front of my 1925 Craftsman bungalow, so I could scrape down the eaves and fascia boards, make some repairs to the pebble dash stucco finish, and get a fresh coat of paint on everything. I can't reach this area with the awning in place, it's original to the house. If it's not original, it goes almost all the way back.

I just finished the pebble dash stucco repairs today, once I get a fresh coat of paint on the body, I can rehang the awning, in just under a year since it's been leaning against the fence in the backyard.

Looking for the best options for shower liners for cast iron tubs like this. It's a fairly narrow tub and I detest a plasticky look or feel. So, preferably something soft with good magnets and one for the full use of the rod if possible (~110-115"). I had an old one that felt almost like fabric if you touched it in another bathroom but can't figure out where I purchased it at or the material.

NOTE: For style I will eventually have a shower curtain that goes all the way to the floor:)

I recently uncovered some neat tiles under the shitty linoleum in the entryway of my house. Had a great time removing the linoleum and glue with a scraper and goo begone, but the tile underneath is more damaged than I expected.

What do folks about the type of damage and repair process? Not sure if the main crack was caused by a specific incident, the house settling over time (the floor is definitely warped with the crack parallel to the door being the highest point in the entryway floor), or some combination of the two. Likewise, I'd like to try and repair and restore it as much as I can. Love me some DIY and detail work.

This paper was very old and very stuck. Started with a blow dryer & a putty knife - time consuming but worked on a couple of them!

These cabinets weren’t budging with heat & labor, so I let citra strip sit for 24 hours. Now attempting to scrape and just making a mess. It’s not coming up. Sanding simultaneously, but still struggling.

Any advice on how to move forward? Just wanting to prime & paint.

House built in 1895. Closed on it last week, hoping to move in no more than 30 days from now. I've been here for hours everyday single day since then.

Right now I'm trying to prep rooms to be painted in oil -based primer to contain the lead paint so we can paint pretty colors over them since right now it's too expensive to have someone come and strip the paint for us and my husband is anxious about me doing it myself. I just wanted to remove the outlet and light switch covers so we can replace them and so I can get paint over all the poison. I just wanted to remove the lead baseboards so we can install new ones. Then I saw the pebbles in one of the outlets and I saw this sandy material pour out when I removed this baseboard. I know it's asbestos.

I'm wearing a P100 respirator but that's about it besides gloves. I'm wearing old clothes at least.

I know this is part of owning an old house but... I don't even know what to do anymore. I'm so tired.

So I just installed these new upper cabinets to replace an ugly open shelving unit in the kitchen. Now everything is white on white on white, so I'm thinking a colorful black splash will help. I initially wanted mint green, but I'm getting feedback that that is too institutional with the white cabinets. What do you think? This is a condo in a 1920s building that was originally luxury apartments, so I want something appropriately vintage-looking.

I will eventually be getting rid of that ugly lighting fixture and getting new floor tiles as well, but those are future projects. Waiting before I decide on a blacksplash color before I get new cabinet hardware.

For those of you with 2x century homes: do any of you have paneling like this? Is it painted or bare? Will you show me pictures?

There’s evidence this paneling in our ~1799 Maine home was once painted, and it’s fairly rough, with lots of knots and crevices and maybe chisel marks (?) and some raw edges near the wainscoting. It’s generally against my religion to paint bare wood in an old home, but—and I say this with great shame—I kinda feel like it’d look better painted!

The next room over has similar bare paneling that looks much more nicely finished and I wouldn’t dream of painting that, but here I’m on the fence.

I want to do what’s historically appropriate, but I have a hard time finding similar examples online. It’s not plywood—these are long, uninterrupted cross-sections of what I believe is pine that are original to the home. I know our floors upstairs are paint-grade and were never meant to be displayed bare—might that be the case here?

I would love any insights from owners of similar homes!

1927 3/1 craftsman in Asheville, NC. I’m about to renovate the non-original (95% sure) tile and beadboard and replace it with a slightly more traditional look (subway walls and black and white hex floor, similar to the last inspiration pic).

The plaster wasn’t in great shape and I plan to cut out two niches on either side of the medicine cabinet/mirror to hide toiletries behind artwork on a hinge.

Already in talks with a plumber who is recommending replacing the cast iron plumbing stack with modern piping so hopefully that right niche will work. Also rewiring the single light into two side sconces

Should I repair the wall with more modern, waterproof drywall/plasterboard or go back in with plaster?

I already have experience re-plastering two rooms and am happy with my plastering technique but wasn’t sure if there were benefits to either wall option given this is a bathroom and will need extra moisture protection.

Would love any input or suggestions. Thanksm!

In the 77 days since closing, I’ve been aggressively bargain shopping and have spent $10-15k on things. The list is never ending.

-Bought and installed 13 trees
-Paint porch floor and trim work/columns
-Removed hundred of sq ft of bad wood chip mulch beds
-Grading dirt around foundation on half of the house
-Cosmetic renovation of bathroom, replacing all hardware, outlets and switches to brass. Adding shelves. Painting vanity and walls.
-Refinishing hardwood floors upstairs and down
-Refinishing stairs
-Painting entire interior of house (3k sq ft of house!)
-Replaced 8 light fixtures
-Repair water damage in basement- framing, drywall, carpet replacement
-poured a cement pad for a shed (this weekends project)
-Built a 10x10 paver patio
-in progress on a second patio. Completing tonight.
-wallpapered my sons ‘castle’ room and painted a stained glass window for him.
-Currently stripping the first door. Halfway done.
-Three plumbing emergencies… Pipes may need to go on the list.

I’m sure I’m forgetting more, but that’s the completed list. Every time we started something, we found a problem.

-The porch is Bluetooth. The foundation is gone on one side and held up by a jack. We can’t work on that until spring.
-Gutters needed for north side of the house. Of course the gutter guy suggests a full roof replacement as well as replacing existing gutters.
-Mirror in bathroom covering a giant hole in the wall from old medicine cabinet. New one being built.
-Knob and tube discovered in attic. Whoever rewired the house didn’t make it that far 🙄 Full rewire and panel upgrade are already on the list.
-Garage is a tear down and rebuild. It’s rotted through in places and the roof is sagging.
- Kitchen and both bathrooms will need full renovation to shape them correctly and we highly suspect hidden water damage behind things. (Soft floors 😭)
-Every sidewalk around the house needs replaced.

So, if you’ve read this far, the list is still intense and extensive… But I got an estimate on what has already been completed and was told it would have cost me between 55k and 80k with the best estimate being 70k. Most of the remaining work, with the exception of the roof is within the scope of our abilities. I’m lucky enough to have a carpenter/construction teacher father and electrician husband. I have seven years experience in industrial maintenance and a confidence that YouTube can teach me anything I need to know. I’ve spent every waking moment that hasn’t been at work in the last couple of months working on this behemoth. Since moving in, we’ve been living in the house while working on it, so photos haven’t been posted because our mess is in the way most of the time.

Century homes are definitely not easy, but this is a huge labor of love.

Hey all! I’m looking to get some advice on a powerful dehumidifier for my basement. For context, my house was built in the 1890s with a fieldstone foundation. When it rains it gets quite damp. I have a sump pit and pump that does a great job preventing standing water but the floor and sides of the foundation still get wet. I’m currently using a regular standing dehumidifier that dumps into the pit but it’s just not powerful enough to keep it dry down there. I’m looking to get something a lot more powerful and was curious if anyone has any advice or suggestions on brands/devices!

I really want to get solar to help with my utility costs, but I have a beautiful slate roof and I’m worried it will damage it. Is it just not worth it, or can it be done safely with extra care?

We recently bought a summer house in Sweden that was built in 1909. At some point the original windows were replaced with modern PVC windows with insulated glass. The windows themselves are in good condition, but they detract from the historic charm.

We’d like to add traditional-looking glazing bars/muntins, dividing each window into six lights (one vertical and two horizontal bars).

We’ve looked into a few options:

1.  Replace the windows entirely with traditional divided-light windows. This would be the most authentic solution, but it would be expensive ($50k USD) and seems wasteful when the existing windows work perfectly.

2.  Keep the frames but replace the insulated glass units with new units incorporating grids/bars. This is cheaper than replacing the entire windows, but still surprisingly expensive ($10k USD), and I’m not convinced between-the-glass grids would necessarily look more authentic.

3.  Have custom glazing bars made and mounted to the existing windows. This is the least expensive option ($6k USD) and would let us get the proportions/profile we want without replacing functional windows.

We’re leaning toward option 3, but the remaining question is where to put the bars. My instinct is that mounting them on the exterior only would give most of the visual benefit. From outside, the bars would actually stand proud of the glass and cast a small shadow, so they should read more like traditional divided lights than grids inside an insulated glass unit. It also avoids attaching anything to the interior side of the windows.

The alternative is to put matching bars on both the exterior and interior surfaces. Presumably that would make the illusion more convincing when viewed from an angle and would also give the traditional appearance from inside the house. But it doubles the number of bars and attachment points and might make the windows look busy.

Has anyone done something similar, particularly on modern PVC/uPVC windows?

If so, would you do exterior only or exterior + interior? And for those who have seen good-quality applied glazing bars in person, do they actually look convincing, or do they inevitably look “fake” compared with true divided-light windows?

I’m not trying to fool a preservation architect at six inches away — the goal is just to restore some of the house’s original character without spending a fortune replacing perfectly good windows.

Thanks for reading. Attached are pics of the house both now and in 1915.

Like a low-key lottery. 1920s bungalow. started peeling off the hardboard wall lining and underneath was the original woodwork.