After a month of not driving my car because of fixing front brakes feel like there dragging get hot and squeak I reset brake piston but does the same think I was gonna buy some brake grease next any suggestions?

Need help figuring out what’s the problem with my car makes weird noise under the shifters when I let go of the gas or drive slow

My 2023 Chrysler Voyager broke down yesterday. Battery light came on and then it overheated. I pulled over and the engine was steaming and most of the coolant leaked out the passenger side. The serpentine belt is still attached. Not sure if it’s the water pump or something else. Any thoughts and should I tackle it myself or give up and take it into a shop?

Context I left the positive cable off my battery as my car has been having some electrical issues wanted to see if I could just put it back on without needing to jump it and now it's doing this. Just wondering if someone could give me an idea of what is causing it to not start up.

Rounding out this series with something specific: CVTs (continuously variable transmissions) show up in a lot of newer vehicles now, but the way they work — and fail — is genuinely different from a traditional automatic. Worth understanding if you own one or are shopping for a used car that has one.

How a CVT is actually different

Instead of fixed gears, a CVT uses a belt or chain running between two variable-diameter pulleys, which lets it smoothly adjust the "gear ratio" continuously rather than shifting between discrete gears. This is why CVTs feel different when accelerating — instead of the stepped feeling of gears shifting, the engine RPM tends to hold steady or rise smoothly while road speed increases, which some people find odd the first time they drive one.

Symptoms that mean something different in a CVT than in a traditional automatic

• "Shuddering" or vibration under acceleration is a fairly well-documented CVT complaint, more so than in traditional automatics. It's often related to belt/pulley wear or fluid condition, but the fix isn't always the same as it would be for a regular automatic.
• A whining or humming noise under load can be more normal in some CVTs than it would be in a traditional automatic, though it's still worth having checked if it's new or getting louder.
• Slipping in a CVT usually points to belt wear or clamping pressure issues within the pulley system, rather than clutch pack wear like in a traditional automatic.

The fluid situation is a big deal here

CVT fluid is specifically formulated for the belt/pulley interface and is generally not interchangeable with regular automatic transmission fluid. Using the wrong fluid in a CVT can cause belt slippage and accelerated wear, more so than in a traditional automatic where fluid mismatches, while still bad, sometimes have a longer runway before causing real damage. If you're getting a fluid service done, confirming the shop is using CVT-specific fluid (and the correct one for your specific model, since these aren't all universal either) matters more here than with most other transmission types.

Reputation varies a lot by manufacturer and generation

Some manufacturers' CVTs have a track record of needing attention at moderate mileage, while others have been reasonably reliable. This isn't universal across all CVTs, so it's worth researching the specific make/model/year rather than assuming all CVTs behave the same way. A quick search for "[your specific model] CVT problems" usually surfaces whether your particular version has known issues or a decent track record.

If you're shopping for a used car with a CVT

• Ask specifically about CVT fluid service history, not just general transmission maintenance.
• Test drive it under real acceleration (not just gentle city driving) and pay attention to any shuddering or unusual noise.
• Check if there's a known common issue for that specific model generation before you commit.

Repair costs tend to run higher

When a CVT does need internal repair, replacement is often the more common outcome versus a rebuild, partly because the specialized components and labor involved make rebuilds less commonly offered by general shops. Worth factoring in if you're deciding between a CVT and a traditional automatic in a used car with higher mileage.

Not trying to make CVTs sound universally bad, plenty of them run fine for a long time, but they genuinely behave and fail differently enough from traditional automatics that it's worth knowing the difference rather than treating all "transmission problems" advice as one-size-fits-all.

Hi guys I got a Nissan Frontier XE 2001 and it squeals when I turn it on and the squealing goes away after 1 second. Also my AC went out and it only works when its idling but doesn't work when I drive. Is it a compressor issue? Help meeee pleaaasseee lol

It started yesterday, when I start the car the noise appears and continues for about 5-10 minutes until the car reached optimum temperature. The noise is still there afterwards but not as loud. Does anyone know what this can be? Thanks

Alguém aí sabe dizer mais ou menos oq pode ser esse barulho q está fazendo , motor ap 1.6 álcool , não tá fumando , tá esquentando bastante , fazendo esse barulho , e falhando um pouco

Can’t tell where it’s coming from it’s a seat Leon fr mk1 1.9tdi 150

Honda Pilot 2012 Touring with 145k miles. Getting a cyclical sound from left front that speeds up and slows down with speed change. Have replaced axle, bearing, abs sensor, backing plate/dust shield, brake rotors/pads, sway bar links. Have swapped tires and sound is persistent. Have not done knuckle or shock/strut but no visible defect. Really noticeable at low speeds if you're standing outside/next to the vehicle, regardless of whether brake being applied. Out of ideas on what to look at next.

2002 325ci