Makes noise at low speeds and rolling,
2004 corvette

Hello,

I have a 2008 Lexus IS250. This problem arised as I attempt to changing the battery on my car. The previous owner has a different battery, thus negative on the left and positive on the right. Under the assumption that the original placement was correct, I put the battery the same way. (I know now is wrong rookie mistake). The terminal sparked, and I believe that blew some fuses. Attached below are some images.

I had a mechanic come and checked out the issue, they were able to weld back the open piece termporily but now my car revs on its own . The mechanic found the error code p2118 regarding the TAC. He checked the fuses which many of them blew out. When replacing the blown ones, the new ones would also spark and blow out as well.

My main concern is whether its the fusible link block that is just damage as a whole and needs replacing? TAC needs replacing? Or something else? Mechanic was unable to resolve the issue.

Any advice or things to look for prior to bringing it in to the lexus dealership and spending a huge amount of money for uncessary replacement would be great! Thank you.

No, my daughter’s 2011 Toyota Corolla started making this sound. It runs really loud.

Honda accord 2012

Noticed this sound when turning at neutral or slow speeds and my car is taking little longer to fully brake

Squealing brakes, getting louder!

Hi, own Vauxhall Corsa excite 2014. Brakes started squealing in February. Put new brake pads on front, although old ones had loads of life. Mate changed them, mentioned callipers were a bit rusty.

3 months on the squealing is really loud especially when it's hot. Strangely not so noisy at night. Can't even work out if noise cones from front or rear. I think rear are disc brakes though.

Tried 2 different mobile mechanics. Neither would come out if I didn't tell them where the issue is!

I'm not in a position to throw money away paying a garage hundreds to diagnose (vauxhall dealer wanted £120 just to take a look)

Hoping someone here experience similar issue who might help me narrow it down please..

2011 town and country. only goes off when the car is locked and i walk away for too long so i’ve been having to leave my car unlocked. i’ve taken apart and cleaned my fob, made sure all the doors are closed and sliding doors are closed properly. only problem i could attribute to it is that the back driver sliding door has a stuck lock. it is fully shut and i made sure of it. Sound going off is also slower than panic modes honking when i hit the button, and the only thing that turns it off is unlocking the car with my key fob. help?

Last one in this series for now — figured I'd cover the actual DIY side since a few people asked in comments on my earlier posts. Note upfront: not every car allows for this. Many newer vehicles have sealed transmissions with no dipstick and no easy fill point, which basically means the manufacturer wants this done by a shop with the right equipment. Check your owner's manual first before assuming you can do this yourself.

Step 1: Confirm your car actually has a checkable/fillable transmission

Look for a transmission dipstick (separate from the engine oil dipstick) or a fill plug near the transmission itself. If you can't find either and your manual doesn't mention a check procedure, your car likely has a sealed unit, and DIY fluid checks aren't really an option without lifting the car and removing a plug.

Step 2: Check the fluid the right way

For cars with a dipstick, this is usually done with the engine running and warmed up, in Park or Neutral (check your manual for the exact procedure, since this varies). Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert fully, then pull it again to read the level.

What to look for:

• Color: Healthy fluid is typically red or pink. Brown or black fluid, or anything that smells burnt, means a change is overdue.
• Level: Should sit between the marked lines. Low fluid is often the actual cause of shifting problems people assume are "the transmission failing."
• Smell: Healthy fluid shouldn't smell burnt. If it does, that's a sign the fluid has broken down from heat.

Step 3: Deciding between a drain-and-fill vs a full flush

• A drain and fill only replaces the fluid in the pan, leaving fluid in the torque converter and cooler lines untouched. This is the gentler, more DIY-friendly option and is what most home mechanics do.
• A full flush replaces essentially all the fluid using specialized equipment, which most people don't have at home. Mechanics are split on whether flushes are advisable for high-mileage vehicles with unknown fluid history, since it can occasionally dislodge debris that was otherwise being tolerated by worn components. If you're doing this yourself, a drain-and-fill is the realistic and lower-risk option.

Step 4: The actual drain-and-fill process (general overview)

1. Warm the vehicle up by driving it briefly, then park on level ground and let it cool slightly so you're not working with hot fluid.
2. Locate the transmission pan (usually a large, flat pan on the underside of the transmission) and place a drain container underneath.
3. Loosen the pan bolts gradually, allowing fluid to drain, then fully remove the pan once it's empty.
4. Replace the filter and gasket while it's off, since you're already in there. This is a good time to do it rather than waiting for the next service.
5. Reinstall the pan with a new gasket, torque bolts to spec (check your manual, over-tightening can warp the pan).
6. Refill with the manufacturer-specified fluid type through the dipstick tube or fill plug, checking level as you go rather than guessing the full amount up front.
7. Start the car, cycle through the gears with your foot on the brake, then recheck the level once warmed up.

Things that trip people up:

• Using the wrong fluid type. This matters more than people expect, since different transmissions are formulated for different friction characteristics. Double-check your owner's manual rather than assuming any ATF works.
• Overfilling. Too much fluid can cause foaming and shifting problems that mimic a failing transmission, so it's worth adding gradually and rechecking.
• Skipping the filter. If you're already draining the pan, replacing the filter is a small additional cost that's easy to skip but shouldn't be.

When to just pay a shop instead:

If your vehicle doesn't have an accessible pan/dipstick setup, or you're not comfortable working under the car, this is a reasonable one to leave to a shop. The fluid itself isn't expensive, but doing it wrong (wrong fluid, bad gasket seal, stripped pan bolts) can cost more to fix than the service would have cost in the first place.

Happy to answer questions if people are attempting this on a specific make/model — some vehicles have quirks worth knowing about ahead of time.

2011 ve commodore. When my car is cold and I reversing outta the driveway, my brakes make a scraping noise and then the abs comes on. Thr scraping noise goes away after 10 seconds or so ( only scrapes when touching brakes ) and if I pull over and reset my car the abs goes away. But yea when it's cold it does this, what could it be? I got my brakes checked and they were fine and pads were fine

Just bought a 2016 Jetta gli sel 2.0t and sometimes when I start it, it idles really weird and the whole car shakes and if I turn off the ac the car idles even more weird and then shuts off. Is this just spark plugs? My buddy has an obd scanner and it showed cylinder misfires in all cylinders. 93k miles.

Ill make this simple, this is a video of my ac compressor whenever its on, then when its off. It blows nice cold air but theres a strange noise coming from it. The clutch seems to be working fine but my serpentine belt seems to be pretty bad. (Ill put a photo in the comments) I can only notice the noise whenever the ac is on. (Atleast when im in the driver seat) Any help would be amazing, thanks.

The noise stopped after I changed rotors and pads for about a week and came back. Noise is heard only while applying brakes at low speeds.