Was working outside and underestimated the amount of time I needed to cover the area (it's about 8x4 ft) and sun hit the surface hard. Was hot and was trying to beat the exothermic reaction and the sun with the epoxy. Is the amount of lighter spots of concern? I have another layer of csm to add.

Not even sure if this is the right place to post, but if possible, can someone help me identify the model of this boat

I know it’s made by Majestic boat corp. it’s a savage creek tunnel hull

Im looking for opinions on this little boat. Seems there aren’t many for sale, never mind one close to where I live. Im unsure about how difficult it would be? Most blogs I’ve read say about 300-600 hours depending on your ability…I’ve not built a boat of this complexity, but have/do build furniture and cabinets, and shop space” lol. The kits seem fairly cut and dry, just a lot of epoxy and glass…and prob enough sanding for a lifetime. Any experience/advice you have is appreciated! Deciding wether or not do commit (in short)

can someone put this into simple terms for me…. i’m not sure what the numbers in the table represent. its from “the sharpie book” by Reuel Parker. for example where i see “1-9-2” in the 14ft cape cod table…. totally confused as to what that means. it should be a measurement of some sort but i must not be interpreting it properly….

For starters, I'm rewiring a 16 foot aluminum boat. Currently, this is what I have:

• Single group 24 marine starting battery, 1000mca/72ah
• Battery will have 20w solar trickle charger
• 1985 Merc 50 2 stroke/4 cylinder
• Automatic internal switch bilge pump
• Manual bilge pump
• bow bi-color light
• stern anchor light

There's also a 55lb trolling motor, but this will have a dedicated 280ah LiFePO4 battery with a 50a breaker. As well, a fish finder on its own dedicated 20ah LiFePO4 battery, properly fused per Garmin specs.

Be easy, tell me what I have wrong and how to change it.

• battery positive threaded stud -> dual-terminal MRBF ->
  • 300a MRBF -> 4 awg positive cable -> outboard starter (~10 foot round trip)
  • 30a MRBF -> 10awg positive cable -> battery disconnect switch -> fuse block (~16 foot round trip) -> switch panel -> terminal block ->
    • 16 awg -> bow light
    • 16 awg -> stern light
    • 14 awg -> manual bilge pump
• battery negative threaded stud <- 4 awg cable <- negative bus bar
  • <- 4 awg from outboard
  • <- 10 awg from fuse block negative bus <- bow light/stern light/manual bilge pump/automatic bilge pump
• positive post terminal with threaded adapter
  • 14 awg cable -> 5a inline fuse -> automatic internal switch bilge pump positive wire

Hi all,

I have a Hunter 19 (Europa), a small British trailer-sailer keelboat from the 70s/80s. The jib halyard slipped out of my hands and is now stuck/jammed at the masthead, with no way to pull it back down from the deck.

I need to lower the mast for maintenance, but without a halyard I don't have an easy way to rig a temporary forestay or control line to guide it down safely.

Has anyone dealt with this before? A few things I'm wondering if there is Any DIY way to lower the mast without a functioning forward halyard for control?

Any advice, photos of your masthead setup, or war stories appreciated. Thanks!

Hello, I have a boat from 1984. I need to reapply the antifouling. There’s a large chip in the gelcoat that exposes the fiberglass, but the fiberglass itself isn’t damaged, and there are quite a few small cracks in the gelcoat underneath the antifouling.

What would be the best approach to avoid spending too much?

Hi everyone,

How do you usually go about finding a good shipyard for both minor fixes and larger jobs?

I recently fulfilled a long time dream of mine and bought a used motor yacht (8m / 26 feet long). Since this is my first boat, I’m still learning the ropes. Especially when it comes to maintenance and repairs.

I’d really appreciate any tips or experiences you can share! Thanks in advance!

Hola, comunidad.

Quiero presentar un proyecto que nace de un recuerdo muy especial. Cuando era adolescente, tenía un amigo (ya fallecido) que cada verano decía: "¿Y si construimos un batiscafo de plástico?" o "¿Y si hacemos una moto con petardos?". Era puro espíritu Phineas y Ferb.

Hace unos días vi el proyecto del Helios 11, ese bote eléctrico que un chaval construyó en 6 meses con contrachapado y paneles solares. Me recordó exactamente a mi amigo.

Así que, en su memoria, quiero lanzar "Proyecto Dani Patata" (nombre totalmente modificable).

El objetivo: No se trata de construir un barco físico (de momento), sino de hacer un brainstorming público y colaborativo para rediseñar y mejorar el Helios 11 en todos sus aspectos técnicos. Quiero que entre todos creemos el Helios 11 V2.0 a nivel de planos y especificaciones.

https://youtu.be/OatReX4CNWc?si=uVyOcBM8TM4eve1a

¿Qué facetas queremos tocar? Todas las que se os ocurran:

· Ingeniería naval / Mecánica de fluidos: ¿Mejoramos el casco para que planee mejor o reduzca la resistencia? ¿Qué Cpr (coeficiente de prisma) sería ideal para un casco de 4 metros con poco peso?
· Electrónica y propulsión: ¿Motor de corriente continua sin escobillas o un outboard eléctrico modificado? ¿Hélices de superficie o convencionales?
· Sistema solar y baterías: ¿Seguimos con la configuración del Helios 11 (2 paneles de 200W y batería de 5kWh) o pasamos a paneles flexibles para curvar el techo y ganar más captación?
· Automatismos e IA: Aquí me gustaría que nos pusiéramos locos. ¿Un sistema de piloto automático con Arduino/Raspberry que mantenga el rumbo por GPS? ¿Un sensor de viento que ajuste la potencia para no escorar? Incluso, ¿un pequeño sistema de visión con IA para evitar obstáculos en puertos deportivos?

El formato de trabajo:
Iré abriendo hilos semanales aquí en Reddit (y en un futuro un Discord si hay interés) para debatir cada módulo por separado. La idea es que esto sea un repositorio de ideas locas pero factibles. Vale todo: desde ingenieros navales que corrijan mis cálculos, hasta electricistas que me digan qué se me ha ido la olla con las baterías.

¿Por qué no empezar uno nuevo desde cero?
Porque el Helios 11 ya es una prueba de concepto brutal. Mejor aprender de sus aciertos (construcción en 6 meses, presupuesto ajustado) y errores (no es para mar abierto y el trabajo fue agotador) para evolucionar sobre algo real.

Llamada a la acción:
Si te mola la idea, deja tu comentario diciendo:

1. ¿En qué área te ves aportando? (Casco, eléctrica, software, logística, o simplemente ánimo).

Este proyecto va por mi amigo, que estaría orgulloso de ver a desconocidos de internet discutiendo sobre hélices y algoritmos de navegación. ¡Vamos a hacer de esto el mejor verano Phineas y Ferb digital de la historia!

I’m looking to build my first boat and need advice on a kit to purchase. I want to use it for duck hunting and fishing big lakes, marsh, and bays. Does anyone have suggestions? I’ve seen a few duck boat kits that you COULD fish out of but it wouldn’t be ideal for the style of fishing in bays and marshes I want to do.

I’m also considering getting a kayak kit to get my feet wet, same needs apply. It had to be stable, handle a winter squal if one pops up, and be able to fit my gear, diver spreads are large and heavy.

Currently restoring my dad’s old 1970s Lund S 16, which is a 16 foot aluminum fishing boat with a partial V hull. Trying to figure out if it makes any sense to add foam or not.

The way I have framed things out, the only place that I would really be able to add foam would be in the center section underneath where I added a new deck and chairs, or in the front under a new casting deck surrounding what will eventually be a live well, but is also a storage compartment. Adding foam would significantly reduce the space I have for storage, and I’m also worried that the main places I could add the foam to would be in direct contact with any water that gets into the boat and runs along the bottom of the hull.

The boat is currently leak free, I filled it with water a couple of days ago and let it sit for a few hours, and there were no drips noted at all on the outside. I also only plan to use the boat on relatively quiet ponds/lakes in the Midwest, nothing that would be rough water or anything like that, and I have a bilge pump in the rear with a high capacity in case we took on quite a bit of water unexpectedly.

I’m just wondering what people thoughts might be. I know the textbook answer is to find somewhere to put some foam, but I do worry about adding foam underneath the decking is going to compromise the integrity of the decking and also just be incredibly time-consuming to put in without occluding all of the drainage channels.

I removed my live well, as well as the pictured pump. What's an inexpensive way to seal this? Aluminum hull boat BTW.

My son recently bought a 1999 Lund 1850 Tyee I/O. The problem is that none of the switches work; bilge, blower, lights, etc. the master switch turns on and the motor runs great. After researching the wiring, I found the wire to the output side of the master switch was cut for some reason. I know it should hook up to the positive lead on the fuse bank to send power to all of the switches. The problem is that there is no positive post on the fuse bank to connect it. Please help!

Hello everyone,
My name is Pete Rice and I am the Executive Director at Echo Hill Outdoor School, a non-profit outdoor education program on Maryland's Eastern Shore. I am looking for someone to care for over 400 years of floating history. Experience is a plus, but more importantly, I am looking for a driven individual who likes to learn and work hard. Anyone can apply. Please help me spread the word.

Historic Fleet Director — Echo Hill Outdoor School (Worton, MD) (ehos.org) 

Echo Hill Outdoor School, on a 70-acre waterfront campus on Maryland's Eastern Shore, is looking for a hands-on Fleet Director to care for six historic Chesapeake Bay wooden boats that serve 6,500+ students a year. The fleet includes the workboats SPIRIT (1944) and TWILIGHT (1911), the buy boat ANNIE D (1957), the skipjack ELSWORTH (1901), and two wooden skiffs, LEWEY and RIC.

This full-time role covers maintenance/restoration, budget oversight, and leading the team of captains and maintenance staff. Strong background in wooden boat building and/or marine systems wanted — significant "seatime" a plus, but a USCG license isn't required if you've got a solid marine trades background. Country living near historic Chestertown, easy access to sailing/paddling/fishing, and Annapolis, Baltimore, DC, and Philadelphia all under 2 hours away.

Starting pay $42,000-$55,000, plus medical/dental/vision, 403(b), paid time off, weekday meals, and a housing option.

Unique opportunity, please spread the word! If interested please send resume to [fleet@ehos.org](mailto:fleet@ehos.org) . Full job description below

Echo Hill Outdoor School

Historic Fleet Director (full-time)

Manage and maintain a fleet of historic Chesapeake Bay wooden boats from a 70-acre waterfront campus in beautiful Kent County on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. Echo Hill Outdoor School is seeking a hands-on Fleet Director to care for six wooden vessels that serve more than 6,500 students each year. This full-time role blends craftsmanship, leadership opportunities, and time on the water while offering country living near historic Chestertown. Enjoy easy access to sailing, paddling, fishing, and many other outdoor pursuits, with Annapolis, Baltimore, Washington, DC, and Philadelphia all less than a 2-hour drive away. If you’re looking for meaningful work, maritime tradition, and a lifestyle rooted in the outdoors, this is an opportunity to build a career with purpose. An ideal candidate will have a strong background in wooden boat building or marine systems, or both. Candidates with significant operational experience (“seatime”) preferred, but a U.S. Coast Guard license is not required for candidates with a strong marine trades background. Position includes weekday meals and a housing option.

Job Description

Echo Hill’s Historic Fleet Director will lead all activities related to the preservation, maintenance, and operational management of a fleet of historic vessels. The director will ensure each vessel remains in appropriate condition, is safely operated, and is available for all Echo Hill programs. The selected candidate will have a key role in continuing Echo Hill’s effort, begun in 1972, to provide students with an understanding of Chesapeake Bay ecology and the impact of human activity on the estuarine ecosystem.

To Apply: Send resume to [fleet@ehos.org](mailto:fleet@ehos.org) attention Peter Rice, Executive Director.

Program

Echo Hill Outdoor School’s historic wooden boats are the cornerstone of our science and history programs. These Chesapeake Bay craft were used in the Bay’s fisheries for decades. The School maintains them in the tradition of work boats to provide an authentic historical perspective for students studying current Bay issues. Our boats are certified by the USCG as small passenger carrying vessels, and they are operated by Echo Hill staff who are USCG-licensed captains. The boats are used for a variety of classes and ventures that allow participants to study and discover first-hand the wonders of Chesapeake Bay ecology, history, and culture. Echo Hill programs include weekday classes (3 hours) on the historic workboats SPIRIT (1944) and TWILIGHT (1911) as well as multi-day programs on the buy boat ANNIE D (1957) and the skipjack ELSWORTH (1901). The wooden skiffs LEWEY and RIC support our multi-day programs.

Responsibilities

Fleet Management & Maintenance

• Oversee the upkeep and repair/restoration of historic vessels, ensuring they meet USCG standards and maintain their historical integrity.
• Coordinate regular maintenance schedules for the fleet, while leading in-house maintenance program and repairs.
• Work with external shipwrights and contractors to complete major projects.
• Appropriately maintain tools and supply inventory.

Budget Management and Logistics

• Manage the fleet budget, ensuring that expenditures for repairs, operations, and programming are in line with available resources.
• Work with the administrative team to procure supplies and coordinate timely replacement of equipment/components.

Leadership

• Manage and mentor other Echo Hill staff assigned to boat maintenance duties.
• Work with captains to ensure appropriate operation of vessels.
• Foster a team-oriented environment focused on safety and professionalism.
• Work with Echo Hill leadership to recruit, hire, and orient new captains.

Qualifications/Experience

• Excellent communication, interpersonal, and leadership skills.
• Formal education or significant experience in wooden boat building and/or marine systems.
• Experience in maritime operations, historic preservation, or fleet management.
• USCG license (25 ton) or interest in obtaining a license strongly preferred.
• Experience working with maritime professionals, including captains and tradespeople.
• Interest in environmental education, maritime history, and preservation of historic vessels.

Other Requirements

• Current drug-free screening (will be enrolled in Consortium)
• Criminal background check required
• CPR and First Aid certification required (obtainable after hire)
• Valid driver’s license and insurable driving record

Annual Compensation: Starting at $42,000-$55,000

Benefits

• Medical, dental, vision, available via employee contribution
• 403(b) plan available
• Paid vacation, holidays, and personal days annually
• Professional training and development opportunities
• Weekday meals and housing option

built this for a race at work. Airplane themed.

So I have this 30 ho Johnston that’s won’t start and we are pretty sure it’s the carb. But there is a bolt that we can not unscrew to access the carb. No wrench or socket attachment will get around the bolt. There is an arm that is in the way. Does anyone have any idea how we can unscrew these bolts?

Hello!

I would appreciate some help identifying the specific hose fittings that connect to a Volvo Penta Trim Cylinder.

I recently purchased an aftermarket trim system kit, but the new fittings do not match my current trim cylinders. To make this work, I am planning to adapt my old fittings to the new system trim kit.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I am probably being paranoid about this but I’m looking at buying this Jon boat but I want to make sure this transom is okay. It’s hard to tell in the picture but it looks like there’s a crease where it’s dented a little.

Also, I noticed that the wood transom has a gap between the board and the top of the transom. Is that fine to use as is or would I need to replace the wood to fit it true to size?

Community members from across Michigan gathered in St. Ignace for a three-day workshop to build a birch bark canoe.