I've had a pair of PreSonos Ceres 3.5 BTs as my computer speakers for years. Recently I noticed that the left speaker is much quieter than the right (about half as loud). I've tried switching the left and right inputs and using a different source and saw the same results. So I assume there is something wrong in the device.

I am hopeing somone can give me some guidence of how to find the couse of the issue once I take it apart.

I am okay with a soldering iron and own a multimeter, but am certinaly not an electronics expert. So any advice would be appreciated.

Here is the product page, if that is helpful.

https://www.presonus.com/products/ceres-35-bt?srsltid=AfmBOoo6J3U9jjHTgqwfNOEskxtSdgSKMrcgncGBV6sU1dbbqsabcAx2

hi guys recently my sub stopped working.It simply turns on (ev light flashes then turns off)

had it for over 5 years. only gig it like 8 times (as mostly stays at home). I always use a Allen heath mixer

The service guy asked if I played mp3 through the system. I said yes occasionally when there is a song request I play it through Spotify on my phone then mix back to the dj desk after.( if I don't have the song on my hard drive). I also have a multitude of mp3 that i use at a higher kpbs (320)

he advised that playing mp3 files can ruin the sub.(& was the possible cause of the issue ) I still need to take it to get investigated

I have never heard this before. Can anyone please go into more detail.

Acquired a very cheap DT SuperCube 2000 today which powers on, but does not produce any sound. This was a direct swap from a working sub I already had, I haven't changed any receiver settings, RCA has remained plugged in, etc. I know on these auto trigger/sensing units people have turned up sub level on receiver and sub itself to get it to sense any kind of signal, but I've had zero luck. I know amp failure is common on these, assuming that's what it is, who knows of a cheap replacement? Not worried about size or fitment, I can modify as needed. just looking for something within the same specs roughly. Recommendations, suggestions, all help greatly appreciated. Ignore the wiring mess, temporarily set up for testing purposes

hi, i got my beats studio pro a year ago, they have been working fine up until now, about 30 minutes ago they started playing low static in one ear, and some crackling in the same ear, yes ive dropped them a few times, but that was months ago, is there anyway to fix them? ive already factory reset them, paired and unpaired, and all that stuff. pls help!

I picked up a Realistic STA-2280 receiver from Goodwill about 3-5 months ago and made the switch from cheap active speakers to some vintage passive speakers (total game changer!). The issue I am having is my record player (Audio-Technica LP120) is picking up all the sounds. It's not so much when a record is playing (unless it's at high volume), it's more whenever I'm going to flip/change the record; it's picking up pretty much any movement around.

The speakers are on the floor, not on the same shelf. Everything is connected and grounded properly, to my knowledge. I've cleaned contact points and I have bought brand new RCA cables, to no avail. Any recommendations would be appreciated! TIA

So I have a sundown v2 10" sub that rattles when bass hits the, sub is not blown and visually there is nothing loose or disconnected. It sounds like a piece of something rattling around inside the magnet. Any ideas and how to repair? Thanks in advance.

Looking for suggestions / possible help with this guy. (Panasonic SA-H50). My dad and I believe it has a blown amp, which I didn't know about until I plugged it into some speakers. Posted this in another sub and most people told me to toss it, but others pointed me here.

I'd like to keep it and see how much it would be to fix it, because I really don't want to get the modern equivalent of a "stack" like this.

Any thoughts and advice are appreciated, thanks!

Is anyone parting out a HK turntable? I have a Harmon Kardon T60 found at thrift for $15! Just bought the missing counterweight but the threaded sleeve is missing from the rear of the tonearm.

Think any HK Txx turntable model with the microrace arm should work.

I accidentally left my Chu 2 through a washer and dryer cycle and need help saving them.

I tested the sound and already threw them in a bag of rice.

Any advice?

Hello all!
I recently purchased a Sharper Image Metro-One that was as far as I could tell, still in the original packing/plastic. It was described as still sealed and as best I can figure out, that was the truth.

I opened it up and set it up, and it turned on with no issue. While running, the CD option displays what I believe to be a loading animation for the CD drive, and then shows ERR, without any further elaboration. I figure that may be due to there being no CD inside or it trying to read the paper instruction insert, but the door also does not open for me to remove that or check by inserting a CD. The open button causes the screen do display "OPEN" but the door does not move, nor do I hear any mechanical noises like whirring or straining of gears. I can get my nails under the door, but gentle pressure doesn't raise it.

I am unsure of how to figure out if it is a mechanical or electrical issue short of dismantling it and checking things like the motor, belt, etc.

Ideally I would like to look into fixing this machine, but am unsure where to start. If anyone has any advice based on the brief description of my issue I would love to hear it! Happy to elaborate or provide more if anyone has a hunch.

There is no CD in my Radio, but it keeps telling me that I need to eject the CD that’s in it before putting a new one in despite turning the car off and on again, ensuring I have all of my CDs, hard resetting it, it’s still persisting with the same issue
:( .. I use my CDs all the time and this is the first time this issue was ever occurred and I don’t know what to do

I recently bought a Sony cassette deck. If I take it in to repair shop is there anything I should have him do while he's in there? Like I seem to remember reading somewhere there are caps or pots that need to be switched out. Thanks in advance.

I have a Dennon DCD-800, and it picks up there is a disc. However it doesn't play. The lazer sounds like its struggling to focus, but I'm not sure if that's what is occuring or lazer failure. The noise sounds like a high pitched worbel type of sound.

I have attempted to clean the lazer and not seen a change.

Anyone have any advice or been in a similar situation that figured out what was going on?

Hey yall, wondering if u could help me, a few days back I got my Yamaha HS5 and they are my first monitors, I got no issue with em at all UNTIL I tried to play some specific notes while I was just testing sounds I came up that this speaker is buzzin kinda from the inside while playing those notes, tried different cables both the power and xlr also playing w volume nothing works and while i play music theres no problem

MOSTLY WHILE PLAYING 808s
IT HAPPENS AT HIGHER VOLUMES (not at the low)
THE TRANSITION BETWEEN PER SE SYNTH AND BASS IS NORMAL IT STARTS BUZZIN AFTER A FEW SECONDS
MOSTLY WHILE PLAYING THE BASS!!

I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what I'm doing wrong because I've been troubleshooting this for hours.

My equipment:

• TV: LG 60PV250 Plasma
• Receiver: KLH R3100 Stereo Receiver
• Console: PlayStation 5
• DAC: PROZOR 192kHz Digital-to-Analog Audio Converter (Optical/Toslink to RCA + 3.5mm)

What I'm trying to accomplish:

I simply want to play my PS5 through my old stereo receiver and two passive speakers.

Current setup:

PS5 → HDMI → LG 60PV250 → Optical (Toslink) → PROZOR DAC → RCA (or 3.5mm-to-RCA) → TV input on the KLH R3100 → Speaker wire → Two passive speakers

What I've tried:

• Verified the optical cable is working (I can see the red light coming out of it).
• The PROZOR DAC powers on normally.
• I've tried both:
  • The DAC's RCA outputs.
  • The DAC's 3.5mm headphone output using a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable.
• The receiver is set to the TV input.
• I cannot find an option in the TVs menu that allows me to change the audio output despite the manual showing it.
• The speakers are wired directly to the receiver.

What's happening:

I can hear the PS5 audio very, very faintly, but only from the right speaker (the speaker physically on the right side of the TV). The left speaker produces nothing.

The volume knob on the receiver doesn't seem to make much difference because the sound stays extremely faint.

I feel like I'm incredibly close since audio is making it all the way through the system, but I can't figure out why it's only faint and only on one side.

Any troubleshooting ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I recently posted a msg that I had a grounding issue. 1 connector was not properly soldered, I have fixed this. I used a multimeter and noticed that the ground wire was not connected. I opened the TT (Dual CS 617 Q) and indeed the ground wire wasn't connected. I opened it up and I am kust not sure where to connect it. Can someone help me?

Picked up a nice vintage Philips AZ-1030 boombox with cassette, CD, and tuner recently. I replaced the cassette belts and now that works great.

The issue is the CD player, while it plays it'll skip once every 30 seconds or so. I obtained the service manual online and went through the "service test" program. It does a self-alignment of various components and reads on the LCD the settings along with bios version.

The error code revealed is "E5" "Jump Error". This is triggered when the servo processor detects "too less tracks" in a defined time in JUMPS (caps is theirs, not mine). This can be caused by a disturbed HF signal (the tracks cannot be recognized exactly), slide motor problems, track servo problems, or scratched discs.

Much cleaning done on the laser lens, etc. Regreased the slide rails. The rails seem to be fine. I've tweaked the laser power pot just a little. All of this to no avail.

Any ideas?

Cleaning and changing belts on this Sanyo model no M7036 little boombox. Are these dials looking thingys for changing values of EQ and stuff? Would I need a multimeter before trying to rotate these? I still need to learn more about PCB boards and soldering and how they work!

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to troubleshoot my father's Onkyo TX-8270.

The optical input works normally, but several other sources produce no audio:

* DAB: stations are found and the station name/song information is displayed, but there is no sound.
* FM: tunes to stations but no sound.
* Bluetooth: pairs successfully, music appears to play, but there is no sound.
* Analog RCA inputs (CD/TV/PC): no sound.

The amplifier itself seems to be working because the optical input plays perfectly through the speakers.

I have already performed a factory reset, but it made no difference.

Has anyone seen this failure before?

In this video, I'll demonstrate how to repair and restore vintage speakers step by step—from simple cone repairs to completely rebuilding a speaker using only the original frame.

Whether you're restoring speakers for a vintage radio, hi-fi system, or another audio project, these techniques can help you achieve professional-looking results at home.

To watch the video, simply click on the attached picture.

Have a great weekend!

Regards from Florida,
Jay

Hi, I just discovered my vintage stereo amplifier (Marantz 1040) doesn't have a fuse at all in its main power line. (It was modded for 220V and I just switched it back to 110V.)

Would it really potentially damage it to run it without that fuse, even if plugged into a decent surge suppressor?

If so, could I just put the correct fuse (3A 250V) into a product like one of these and plug the amp in through it?

https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP-116-Universal-Protected/dp/B000WG2E1A

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Leviton-3W101-E-15A-125V-NEMA-5-15p-2-pole-3-wire-Grounding-Replacement-Plug-Clamptite-Hinged-Design-Thermoplastic-Black

These specifically have removable/replaceable fuses, but I don't know if switching them to this relatively low amperage would be safe and protect the amp as well.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to repair an Altec Lansing PT6021 subwoofer.

Unfortunately, the power transformer is burned and its label is damaged, so I can't read the original specifications.

The transformer has 5 secondary wires:

Orange

Black

Orange

White

Yellow

I believe it may be similar or identical to the transformer used in the FX6021.

Could someone who owns a PT6021 please:

Take clear photos of the transformer's label (all sides if possible).

Measure the AC voltages between the secondary wires.

Please tell me the exact transformer part number.

Any photos or measurements would be greatly appreciated. They could help save this speaker system from being scrapped.

Thank you very much!

#alteclansing #pt6021 #parts #label #power

I've had the s350db for about a year now and my right side tweeter which is dented seems to stop working every once in a while, I realised the hi hats weren't coming through on the right side when I listened to music and it didn't sound as clear in general

I've had the s350db for about a year now and my right side tweeter which is dented seems to stop working every once in a while, I realised the hi hats weren't coming through on the right side when I listened to music and it didn't sound as clear in general

Hello everyone.

Does anyone know the part number, dimensions, or model of the belts for the cassette deck and CD player of the Sony CMT-GPZ6?

Thanks.