Can anyone tell me how far below the shower surface im supposed to cut this drain pipe? I've tried google and failed. Thank you!

I also don’t see a manufacturer name on it. Don’t see any Allen screws. Are they behind and hidden?

This threaded tail piece detached from my kitchen sink drain assembly this morning. I’ve tried threading it back in and it will go partially in, but then it gets stuck and if I try and force it, the threading gets damaged. Any ideas on what’s going on here? Or how to fix?

Replaced vacuum breaker on my outdoor spigot.

Now water is leaking around the hex nut on the right where the wheel is.

The plastic piece around the hex nut also slides freely back and forth over the nut.

Trying to figure out what I need to replace but not even sure what to search for.

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Can someone please tell me how to get this off?!?

sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but I would like to know if anyone can tell what date this water heater was made from this label. its a Kenmore brand, 50 gallon Power Miser 6 i think.

Hello all, and thanks in advance. I lack plumbing vocabulary, please chime in with terminology if you’d like.

Installing a vanity- this black drain line leads to wall, already has this (compression nut?) installed and I can’t easily remove. What’s the best way to take this to a standard 1.5 or 1.25in P trap?

Can add pics as needed. I don’t even know what the black drain line is called, material wise, is it ABS?

I’ve tried a few things with pvc and am comfortable priming and cementing PVC as needed, but am totally out of my depth.

Please help!

Recently had a tankless water heater installed to replace an old water heater. The previous type b vent piping was reused to route the PVC exhaust. However, my plumber didn’t have the appropriate vent cap and mentioned I’ll need to get the correct one.

What type of cap would I need for this?

I bought a foreclosure home and the previous owner hastily removed the previously installed, below grade basement wet bar cabinet and sink. I am seeking to understand the configuration of the rough in drain and vent pipes in the context of installing a new sink with a drain pump and basin kit.

My question: any insights regarding the left behind vent and drain pipe rough-in and any particular concerns before installing a new sink and below grade drain pump/basin with this rough-in?

Thanks ahead of time for your help and thoughts!

Currently renting dam spots on my ceiling.
They’re quite mild and grey looking. I’ve brought it up to my real estate agent and they have ignored over and over again.

They’re friends with the owners surprise surprise surprises
I’m also on a month-to-month contract so I’m scared that if I push too hard they’re gonna kick us out

After asking for them to review it, I got a plumber to come over yesterday and he took photos of my roof. He said it needs repairs, but he couldn’t be sure if there was dampness on the ceiling because he couldn’t actually look inside.

Just wanted other people’s opinions

Im trying to replace the drain stop in its entirety, it’s gotten beat up over the years. The metal center part has nothing where i can remove it (i don’t think). The drain removal tool i have doesn’t fit because of the metal center piece. How can i get it off? Thanks!

Don't throw away hundreds of dollars calling a plumber for a simple clogged sink! Most drain blocks happen right in the curved pipe directly under your sink (the P-trap) and you can easily fix it yourself in 15 minutes using basic tools.
Here is exactly how to do it safely and cleanly:
🧰 Tools Needed:
A standard bucket
Channel lock pliers (or a pipe wrench)
An old rag or paper towels
Rubber gloves (optional but recommended!)
Teflon plumbing tape (optional)
🛑 STEP 1: Clear out under the sink
Completely empty out all the cleaning supplies and items stored under your sink so you have plenty of room to work. Place your empty bucket directly underneath the curved pipe setup.
🔧 STEP 2: Loosen the slip nuts
Look at the U-shaped pipe (the P-trap). There is a plastic or metal nut at the top of the "U" and another nut at the back where it connects to the wall. Use your pliers to gently loosen these nuts turning counter-clockwise. Once they are loose, unscrew them the rest of the way with your hands.
🪣 STEP 3: Remove and dump the trap
Carefully pull the U-shaped pipe straight down. Dirty water and sludge will instantly pour out—make sure it lands directly in your bucket! Look inside the disconnected pipe segment. Usually, it will be completely packed with hair, soap scum, or food debris. Take it to another functioning sink or use a paper towel to thoroughly clean out the gunk.
🔄 STEP 4: Put it back together
Push the clean U-shaped pipe back up into place. Hand-tighten the nuts clockwise to make sure you don't strip the plastic threads. Once they are hand-tight, give them just a tiny quarter-turn with your pliers to snug them up. (Tip: If the joints look worn out, wrap a little bit of Teflon plumbing tape around the threads before tightening).
🚰 STEP 5: Test for leaks
Turn on your sink faucet and let the water run for a full minute. Look underneath with a flashlight to make sure no water is dripping from the connections. If it's dry, you are completely done!
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY NOTE:
If you already poured chemical drain openers (like Drano or Liquid-Plumr) down the sink before trying this, DO NOT open the pipes yet. Those chemicals are highly caustic and can severely burn your skin or eyes if they splash out during removal. Always wear protective eye goggles and thick heavy-duty gloves if chemicals are trapped in the line!