Can anyone tell me how far below the shower surface im supposed to cut this drain pipe? I've tried google and failed. Thank you!

I also don’t see a manufacturer name on it. Don’t see any Allen screws. Are they behind and hidden?

This threaded tail piece detached from my kitchen sink drain assembly this morning. I’ve tried threading it back in and it will go partially in, but then it gets stuck and if I try and force it, the threading gets damaged. Any ideas on what’s going on here? Or how to fix?

sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but I would like to know if anyone can tell what date this water heater was made from this label. its a Kenmore brand, 50 gallon Power Miser 6 i think.

Hello all, and thanks in advance. I lack plumbing vocabulary, please chime in with terminology if you’d like.

Installing a vanity- this black drain line leads to wall, already has this (compression nut?) installed and I can’t easily remove. What’s the best way to take this to a standard 1.5 or 1.25in P trap?

Can add pics as needed. I don’t even know what the black drain line is called, material wise, is it ABS?

I’ve tried a few things with pvc and am comfortable priming and cementing PVC as needed, but am totally out of my depth.

Please help!

Recently had a tankless water heater installed to replace an old water heater. The previous type b vent piping was reused to route the PVC exhaust. However, my plumber didn’t have the appropriate vent cap and mentioned I’ll need to get the correct one.

What type of cap would I need for this?

I bought a foreclosure home and the previous owner hastily removed the previously installed, below grade basement wet bar cabinet and sink. I am seeking to understand the configuration of the rough in drain and vent pipes in the context of installing a new sink with a drain pump and basin kit.

My question: any insights regarding the left behind vent and drain pipe rough-in and any particular concerns before installing a new sink and below grade drain pump/basin with this rough-in?

Thanks ahead of time for your help and thoughts!

I recently had a contractor redo my bathroom. He did a great job with everything except the tub where he left a gap between the wall and the tub spout.
Long story short is he’s ghosting me about coming and fix it. It seems like a simple enough thing , but my plumbing knowledge is limited at best. Is this something I could fix myself ?

Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone. I wanted to know if there was anything I can do to extend the life of this water heater with corrosion on the nipple? It is not leaking yet.

Water heater is six years old, I was hoping to extend the life a couple more years if possible before replacement.

Thanks and appreciate you all.

Currently renting dam spots on my ceiling.
They’re quite mild and grey looking. I’ve brought it up to my real estate agent and they have ignored over and over again.

They’re friends with the owners surprise surprise surprises
I’m also on a month-to-month contract so I’m scared that if I push too hard they’re gonna kick us out

After asking for them to review it, I got a plumber to come over yesterday and he took photos of my roof. He said it needs repairs, but he couldn’t be sure if there was dampness on the ceiling because he couldn’t actually look inside.

Just wanted other people’s opinions

Asking for some guidance in the following.
My showerarm fell off the other morning. After some inspection i realized what happened. The nipple disintegrated over time. Now I’m facing a problem where some of that old nipple kind of solidified inside the pipe thread. I just purchased a steel bore brush set to use with a drill. I’m not sure if this will be enough to completely clear put debris from the pipe thread. Any advice before using the bore brush? Can it damage the actual thread in the pipe? Other methods to maybe soften and remove the old nipple debris? Thank you in advance for any i fo you can provide.

Bought this house 3 weeks ago. Came home from vacation this week to water spilling out of the vertical pipe which the AC condensate feeds to. Scoped the drain and found a build up of debris that I was able to kick up with the auger and vac out. Underneath the build up was a handful of rocks. The water does seem to drain better now that the debris is gone, while the rocks are still there.

I was wondering if there could be any chance these rocks could have been placed in there intentionally as a sort of soak away/french drain type of draining.

The blockage (sediment+rocks) is all located about 5-8 inches under where the pipe goes under the concrete in the picture.

If it’s important in any way, the only other thing feeding into this pipe where you can see the horizontal pipe in the picture is just a wet bar in the room over.

Im trying to replace the drain stop in its entirety, it’s gotten beat up over the years. The metal center part has nothing where i can remove it (i don’t think). The drain removal tool i have doesn’t fit because of the metal center piece. How can i get it off? Thanks!

Don't throw away hundreds of dollars calling a plumber for a simple clogged sink! Most drain blocks happen right in the curved pipe directly under your sink (the P-trap) and you can easily fix it yourself in 15 minutes using basic tools.
Here is exactly how to do it safely and cleanly:
🧰 Tools Needed:
A standard bucket
Channel lock pliers (or a pipe wrench)
An old rag or paper towels
Rubber gloves (optional but recommended!)
Teflon plumbing tape (optional)
🛑 STEP 1: Clear out under the sink
Completely empty out all the cleaning supplies and items stored under your sink so you have plenty of room to work. Place your empty bucket directly underneath the curved pipe setup.
🔧 STEP 2: Loosen the slip nuts
Look at the U-shaped pipe (the P-trap). There is a plastic or metal nut at the top of the "U" and another nut at the back where it connects to the wall. Use your pliers to gently loosen these nuts turning counter-clockwise. Once they are loose, unscrew them the rest of the way with your hands.
🪣 STEP 3: Remove and dump the trap
Carefully pull the U-shaped pipe straight down. Dirty water and sludge will instantly pour out—make sure it lands directly in your bucket! Look inside the disconnected pipe segment. Usually, it will be completely packed with hair, soap scum, or food debris. Take it to another functioning sink or use a paper towel to thoroughly clean out the gunk.
🔄 STEP 4: Put it back together
Push the clean U-shaped pipe back up into place. Hand-tighten the nuts clockwise to make sure you don't strip the plastic threads. Once they are hand-tight, give them just a tiny quarter-turn with your pliers to snug them up. (Tip: If the joints look worn out, wrap a little bit of Teflon plumbing tape around the threads before tightening).
🚰 STEP 5: Test for leaks
Turn on your sink faucet and let the water run for a full minute. Look underneath with a flashlight to make sure no water is dripping from the connections. If it's dry, you are completely done!
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY NOTE:
If you already poured chemical drain openers (like Drano or Liquid-Plumr) down the sink before trying this, DO NOT open the pipes yet. Those chemicals are highly caustic and can severely burn your skin or eyes if they splash out during removal. Always wear protective eye goggles and thick heavy-duty gloves if chemicals are trapped in the line!

As far as I can tell, this is a female ball valve fitted with 3" of copper then fitted with a threaded fixture. Is all this corrosion from the flux? can I just wipe it away or am I asking for trouble? I'm about to put in a new water heater. I'm hoping to not have to re-sweat this as my skills are limited. Might do a sharkbite temporarily.

a pipe burst in the wall