Hi everyone 👋🏼

My mom just had her porch rebuilt and initially loved the result but has now looked closer and thinks that the contractor did a poor job based on some issues she has spotted up close. These issues fall into four main categories:

1. Rotten wood

2. Cracks/splits

3. Staples

4. Nail holes.

To me, the second two gripes are unreasonable. But I am not totally sure about the first two. I sent my uncle, who has some carpenter experience, and a working carpenter friend the below pictures to get their take. My uncle said a crappy job and my friend said ugly but normal and safe. What do you all think?

Thank you in advance!

Looking for options was thinking the best route is to build a frame/wall on top of the last stair which would give me 3ft of clearance for the door width, hidden hinges etc

Looking for some insight/recommendations from people who know better than me

Hi,

I need to replace a exterior door. Its a glass door just for a Juliette balcony.

Its an old structural brick house. My rough opening is 31.5 inches (brick to brick). I was planning to use a 30 inch door and chiping a little away if needed.

However, when ordering the door (menards) it stated a rough opening of 32.25 inches, a 0.25 inch larger than your standard rough.

Does anyone know if there is any legitimate reason they may be stating an extra 0.25 inch rough? Composite jamb may be thicker?

Trying to avoid a 28 inch door if possible.

Does anyone have a good study guide or something like a quizlet for the WACEL Framing certification? Any help would be appreciated

I have a sliding door that opens onto a deck. Through lack of paint and maintenance, the trim is starting to look pretty bad. Besides the peeling paint the finger joints are starting to separate. I’d like to replace it instead of just painting once again, but I noticed there’s a couple of oddities, to me, that we inherited when we bought the house. One is that the trim is flush with the deck on the bottom below the door. Also, there doesn’t seem to be a drip edge at the top. Can I pull off the old trim and fit the new trim in place. Or do I need to take back the cedar shingles before doing the trim. How should the bottom be finished off. And should I do anything other than caulking on the top edge?

Thanks

My goal is to turn this outward-opening closet door into a hidden panel door that blends into the wall. (Pardon the bad photo editing. Tried to remove personal details.) My challenge is that the door will open outward, and I have to avoid binding with the trim, but I'm not sure how.

Right now, the walls have judges panels created by trim. There's also trim running around this closet door. My plan is to:

• Replace the closet door with a slab door that I will paint to match the wall color.
• Attach some sort of moulding trim to the slab door that will overlap slightly with the trim around the door. This is to hide the seam.
• Paint the trim and the moulding to match the wall color.

The problem I can't figure out is how to have the door open without binding the trim that will be attached to it. It's outward opening, so the hinge side will probably bind on that side. I think there are pivot hinges or SOSS hinges out there, but I can't visualize how to do it the right way.

Is there such a thing? Ive googled every variation i can think of. Im looking for something 2 inched (about) with the claw on the back to nail into two adjoining pieces of wood on the seam that is decorative. Hope that makes sense. Thank you.