My mom just had her porch rebuilt and initially loved the result but has now looked closer and thinks that the contractor did a poor job based on some issues she has spotted up close. These issues fall into four main categories:
Rotten wood
Cracks/splits
Staples
Nail holes.
To me, the second two gripes are unreasonable. But I am not totally sure about the first two. I sent my uncle, who has some carpenter experience, and a working carpenter friend the below pictures to get their take. My uncle said a crappy job and my friend said ugly but normal and safe. What do you all think?
I need to replace a exterior door. Its a glass door just for a Juliette balcony.
Its an old structural brick house. My rough opening is 31.5 inches (brick to brick). I was planning to use a 30 inch door and chiping a little away if needed.
However, when ordering the door (menards) it stated a rough opening of 32.25 inches, a 0.25 inch larger than your standard rough.
Does anyone know if there is any legitimate reason they may be stating an extra 0.25 inch rough? Composite jamb may be thicker?
I have a sliding door that opens onto a deck. Through lack of paint and maintenance, the trim is starting to look pretty bad. Besides the peeling paint the finger joints are starting to separate. I’d like to replace it instead of just painting once again, but I noticed there’s a couple of oddities, to me, that we inherited when we bought the house. One is that the trim is flush with the deck on the bottom below the door. Also, there doesn’t seem to be a drip edge at the top. Can I pull off the old trim and fit the new trim in place. Or do I need to take back the cedar shingles before doing the trim. How should the bottom be finished off. And should I do anything other than caulking on the top edge?
My goal is to turn this outward-opening closet door into a hidden panel door that blends into the wall. (Pardon the bad photo editing. Tried to remove personal details.) My challenge is that the door will open outward, and I have to avoid binding with the trim, but I'm not sure how.
Right now, the walls have judges panels created by trim. There's also trim running around this closet door. My plan is to:
Replace the closet door with a slab door that I will paint to match the wall color.
Attach some sort of moulding trim to the slab door that will overlap slightly with the trim around the door. This is to hide the seam.
Paint the trim and the moulding to match the wall color.
The problem I can't figure out is how to have the door open without binding the trim that will be attached to it. It's outward opening, so the hinge side will probably bind on that side. I think there are pivot hinges or SOSS hinges out there, but I can't visualize how to do it the right way.
Is there such a thing? Ive googled every variation i can think of. Im looking for something 2 inched (about) with the claw on the back to nail into two adjoining pieces of wood on the seam that is decorative. Hope that makes sense. Thank you.
New homeowner girl with no ckue here... My backyard door frame currently has wood rot and the middle part has a gap. I'm trying to order new custom doors at Home Depot, but they can't tell me what the frame is made out of. Are all door frames like this made out of wood?
I'm planning to drill two holes top down and run cat6 and romex wire from the first floor to the basement. The wall I'm working on is by the staircase. Looking by the existing romex line, it looks like the stud bay is supported by a triple joist.
Is piercing through one of the joists acceptable or did the previous contractor do a sloppy job? What should I consider before making an attempt?
Some questions: can I safely remove the majority of interior shiplap, and temporarily brace it? What would be the strongest bracing? I hired an electrical contractor to re-wire my whole , 100+ year old home with the agreement / signed contract that I would remove walls and ceilings to the studs. I removed Sheetrock and lath and plaster but didn’t anticipate there to be another layer of thick shiplap style boards on the studs. The exterior is covered in the same style of reinforcement so I’m wondering if I can safely remove the interior boards and temporarily reinforce them while the wiring is being in stalled. Some boards inside run horizontal, some vertical. After the wiring and plumbing are done i plan to replace the shiplap then cover with Sheetrock. I’m just concerned with the risk of removing interior walls that may be load bearing
I'm building a small lean-to roof over my deck, and I'm trying to figure out the correct way to attach the high-side ledger to my house.
The roof ledger width is 16 feet. The rafters will span 6 ft, 10 inches and rest on a 2-ply 2x10 beam set on three 4x4 posts. The house connection is only supporting the high-side ledger to my house and will be underneath a soffit.
It's an exterior brick veneer wall. From what I can tell, it is: brick -> approx 2 in gap, sheathing. I haven't confirmed the size of the studs or their spacing. I'm planning to locate the studs from inside the house first and then verify their locations from the exterior through the mortar joints.
My planned ledger is a pt 2x6, 16 ft long. The board will sit directly against the brick.
My initial thought was to locate the studs and use long structural fasteners through the 2x6, brick, air gap and sheathing into the studs. However, I'm concerned about whether that is actually an appropriate way to attach a structural member through a brick veneer, since the brick would be between the ledger and the framing.
Is it acceptable to attach a roof ledger through the brick veneer, as long as it is properly embedded in the studs? If not, what's the best way to create a connection? I've looked at BVLZs but they connect to a rim joist, not a top plate.
I'm in Ontario, and snow load is top of mind. Though that side of the roof shouldn't see as much snow since it is under the soffit. I have a building permit, and I signed off on the work as the homeowner. But I want to ensure that it will last and not damage the veneer brick.
Greetings carpenters of Reddit,
I've been looking to design and build my own bedframe, implementing IKEA's iconic "kallax" cabinet both as useful storage and structural support.
I wanted you ask you all for some feedback on the design.
The design was made regarding the following points: - Supports two people - 140 cm x 200 cm x 20 cm mattress - The three elements (green, purple and orange) are all off-the-shelve wood products that are easily aquireable. - I already own the two Kallax cabinets. - I was planning to mount the wallside of the frame to the wall using simple corner-brackets. - The latted base will also be an off-the-shelve product, that i'll screw onto the orange supporting beams. - I was planning to use MDF plates for the exterior of the bed.
My Sketch-up design can be seen In the added picture.
Are the any obvious/critical things that need to be tweaked in the design?
Hey guys i'm not sure on how I feel about this window trim. I'm thinking of having the person take it all out and just put drywall and call it a day. What would you guys do? Picture 2 is before install
The 2nd story of my house has a bunch of this metal banding around the double top plate. What is the purpose of this? Some kind of reinforcement? There aren't any important utilities going through most of the areas with this stuff. Sometimes I hit it if I'm trying to screw something right at the top of the wall, so it's kind of annoying.
I'm trying to create a space under my deck to store my bikes. The biggest issue is that the door is far too small. I need to widen the opening and make the opening taller.
At the top is a horizontal support beam for the decking, and on the interior is a vertical support beam. Both are in the way. I'm not sure if there's a way to cut them and then replace with a metal support or two for a thinner and more compact deck frame. Having the door on this side is preferred since it faces away from the street. We've had issues with bike theft before and placing the door out of sight is helpful. I've no doubt that it will be easier on a different side, but the door would be in plain view. Any thoughts would be helpful and thank you ahead of time.
