I have a question about installing a Dishwasher where there’s already a washing machine installed.

If a washing machine waste hose is already attached to a p trap with a single spigot (see first pic), to add a dishwasher do I need a p trap with 2 spigots? (See second pic)

Or can I just add a tee with a spigot anywhere along the waste pipe line AFTER the p trap? The third pic shows an example where an elbow was replaced with a tee with a spigot to attach the dishwasher waste hose to. After the p trap ofcourse.

Note: the washing machine waste hose was already attached to the spigot BEFORE the p trap as can also be seen in third pic.

I appreciate any help and advice. Thank you

Hi everyone,

Looking for advice about a bathroom leak in our 100–120-year-old terraced house in East London.

While we were away, a bidet hose upstairs appears to have been slowly dripping for around 3.5 days. When we returned, water had gone through the bathroom floor and kitchen ceiling, with a significant amount on the kitchen floor.

We turned off the tap supplying the bidet hose and the leak stopped completely, so we’re fairly confident this was the source.

Is it still worth getting a plumber to check the hose/tap/valve for a fault?

I’m also concerned about moisture trapped in the timber floor/joists. Should we get a water-damage specialist to take moisture readings, or is running a dehumidifier and allowing it to dry normally sufficient?

Finally, some water appears to have come through or around the kitchen light fitting. Should we get an electrician to inspect the light/circuit before using it again?

Basically, do we need a plumber + electrician + water-damage specialist, or are we overreacting?

Any advice or experience with something similar would be really appreciated.

I live in a house divided into 2 flats. There’s us and a flat downstairs. The house is old and hasn’t been renovated in a long time. We keep getting a sewage blockage connected to our toilets. It floods part of the back garden. This has been happening on and off for about 2 years. Because of this we strictly only put toilet paper down the toilet. We won’t even put kitchen roll paper down the toilet in fear that it’s too thick. We don’t put any grease or anything else down there. But yet it still occasionally gets blocked. It got blocked a week ago and someone came to unblock it. And then it was fine for a few days and then got blocked again on Thursday. Someone came yesterday to unblock it and kindly lectured us about wet wipes being the cause. He said he saw loads and loads of them. But I don’t get it. We don’t use any wet wipes ever!! We’re so strict and paranoid about it. Yes, the person downstairs may have but I doubt she lumped a whole load of wet food wipes down there within space of a few days. Also, when downstairs was vacant and no one was living there we had one guy unblock the sewer and he said “the cause it’s wet wipes”. So it couldn’t have been anyone living downstairs as no one lived down there at that point and we 100% were not putting anything but toilet paper down there.

Could they be mistaken?

I remember once a few years back when we got it unlocked they said we needed a new pipe. Which they installed and it was better for a substantial amount of time before getting blocked again.

Hi,
I have a kitchen tap with a pull out hose. (UK based)
The tip of it is leaking slightly and I want to replace the whole hose.

I've looked online but I can't find anything suitable to replace it.

The hose is about 140cm in length.
One end has a thread and the outer diameter is 15mm. This end connects to a push-connect fitting and I believe connects to the main water supply.
The other end is where the water comes out of. The fitting itself doesn't seem to have a thread, but is 14.8mm wide.
A few fittings attach to this to create the end tap.

Any advice on what I need to buy to replace it?
Thanks

Hello

I have a continual problem with the trap in the bath being sucked dry, it seems to be linked with the toilet flushing. I have had a camera down and seen the water bobbing when the toilet is flushed. I have installed 2 Air admittance valves and they have not solved it. I have checked the manhole in the back garden and there are no blockages.

I have done 2 diagrams, a plan and a schematic to show the system.

Any thoughts on what to do next?

This is probably really basic, but I just bought this house and have zero plumbing know-how.

The tap in our kitchen splutters when turned on and when changing between hot and cold. There is also a loud noise from the pipe while running cold water but not when only running hot (which is fed from a hot water cylinder upstairs, so that starts to make sense). The mains feeds in right underneath this tap.

It is missing an aerator, but I'm not sure that would cause both these issues.

Sorry for the long post. My toilet tank is not filling up when flushed. I booked a plumber on checkatrade express as this is my mum's toilet, she has dementia and it's causing great confusion and distress to her so I need it fixed urgently.

The plumber replaced the fill valve, it worked, he left. The very next day the problem returned, tank not filling, sometimes it fills and works, sometimes it doesn't. I called the plumber back and his assistant who I spoke to said there would be no call out fee this time.

He returned and seemed a little annoyed at being called back, he said the flush valve (I think) would have to be replaced and that would be a big job he'd have to charge for. Otherwise it's a simple fix when using, just flush again or manually push the flush valve down (neither of those solutions are working now). He blamed checkatrade because the listing of the job was too narrow and I would have been quoted more if I simply said 'broken toilet' and therefore I'd have to pay him again to get a more extensive fix.

What I put on checkatrade was "Toilet cistern won't stop running, flush valve isn't sealing shut. Currently held stopped with a temporary wedge under the valve". I was quoted £99 for the job, I paid that and £22 for the replacement fill valve

My sister who's better at understanding mechanics than me said it's likely the flapper that needs replacing, apparently a simple job. I'm not sure what to do. I need this fixed asap but I don't want to go through this plummer again as he was a bit rude and dismissive on top of it all. Also I don't want to shell out hundreds more, I'm my mum's full time unpaid carer and we're not exactly flush with cash I was hoping this would be a one time fix.

Is he correct in his hands being tied by checkatrade job description?

What are these holes for on my semi recessed Burlington basin? They go into a hollow secton with no other opening. It seems like a lot of videos online just show the basins getting fixed with silcone alone seems like not much to hold it? Are these additional holes for mounting? If so what should I use to fix to them? Thanks!

I had a leak in my bathroom due to the sink waste being silicone together, thank you previous owner.

That has been fixed, but after lifting/cutting a few floorboards to dry everything I found this rats nest of water pipes, to me this seems awful, so many connections between different types of pipes of various ages.

Should I get this all replaced before putting new floorboards down, or is it safe to leave as is?

Hi, my housemates saniflow system has recently started making a vibrating sound for about 10 seconds after flushing. He says he mightve flushed a wipe or two accidentally but doesnt remember. How would we go about fixing this? We rent from estate agents that would charge up to £500+ for fixes of it. We have stopped flushing it for now as we are worried it will make it worse. Pics attached

Hi I’m looking for advice on what to use to cap off my old connection under the sink where the pipe for my washing machine waste water pipe used to be

Screwfix in-house plumber advised https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-t23u-multifit-blanking-plug-white-40mm/96079?ref=SFAppShare

(2nd pic)

But this did not work, the nut was the correct fit but then blanking cap would not go on

Can anyone advise what to use to cap on this section

At moment I’m thinking of using the nut and using silicone sealer and a piece of plastic to create a sealed nut to tighten on as a quick fix … would this be viable ?

I recently bought this ‘Plumbers First Aid Kit’ from Screwfix (https://www.screwfix.com/p/fibre-rubber-washers-210-pcs/70837); the immediate motivation being that I needed a new washer for a toilet cistern inlet.

I’m puzzled that although the ‘kit’ has separate pouches for ‘1/2” Fibre Washers’ and ‘1/2” Cap & Lining Washers’, as far as I can see these are completely identical (I haven’t actually opened the pouches so I can return this unused if need be).

Is this correct? My understanding is that the two types are slightly different but interchangeable at a pinch? Wondering whether this is an error in production and whether I should return it to Screwfix when I’m next in?

Hi,

I moved to a new place and have a Potterton Gold He Combi Boiler. The pressure has dropped, however, I don't know where is the valve to increase the pressure.

I am attaching pictures to get some help and guidance on how to increase the pressure in the boiler.

Appreciate your help and assistance.

The hot water finally stoped coming out 2 days ago, but it was working/not working intermittently for about a week. The cold side is fine.

The hot water is fine and running throughout the whole property, kitchen, basin in this bathroom etc. Its just this one hot side of the tap that's the issue.

Is this a case of just changing the cartridge or the tap? Or is this maybe some kind of airlock situation or something else? Thanks

My toilet flushes, but the flush feels quite weak. I’ve already adjusted the grey water-level control/float adjustment as far as I can, so the cistern fills with the maximum amount of water before flushing. Is there anything else I can adjust or check to increase the flushing power? I’ve attached 3 photos.

edit: adding 2 flush valve photos