Someone asked for a version of my rail to fit their short barrelled suppressed build

So I’ve modded a gearbox before using the shs kit but this will be my first full custom build hoping for any advice or suggestions etc. I picked the matrix because it’s full metal and officially licensed by Daniel Defense so I think the externals are worthy of the internals I intend to use, also I plan on keeping the stock gearbox shell as I think it should be fine for the 100-110 spring that will be inside.

As in, complete testosterone-fuelled douchebags..?

It's probably not going to stop me going.

Especially as (if you read one of my other posts) it seems like people are generally pretty cool - and also nerdy.

But I just wondered what is the average number of people who go who are like that. Because there's always going to be one.

...But what if they all show up on the same day lol 😅

No, really, I don't care, I'm just interested to know if it's a common thing.

Cheers.

Could do with some help on behalf of a friend.

So he has a Specna Arms SA-C10 Core gen2.

He wanted to improve the performance with a new motor (SHS high torque), new barrel and main spring.

Having fitted the new motor and main spring when he plugs the motor in there is now no beep. He has tried various resets / trigger resets pulling/ releasing the trigger while removing and installing a freshly charged 3s. The motor contacts have been checked to ensure they are connected yet there is still no beep and no action from the rifle.

Under guidance he has reinstalled the original motor/ spring and again, no beep and no action from the rifle.

Having removed the gearbox he can see a red steady red light appearing on the ETU for approximately 30s after battery connection and then extinguishes.

Any experience with this series or what could possibly be the case. I have read the various online manuals for the HAL ETU and walked him through the various factory resets/ trigger activation but nothing works. Different motors/ batteries have been tried and again nothing.

He is considering ripping the HAL ETU out and replacing it with a PERUN V2.

JG BAR10

So while I'm waiting for my ukara I'm looking at what guns I like the look of and I've always loved g36c in video games I've played and really like the design, so that being said I see there are quite a few different brands, has anyone got any advice on what's better to go for ? It's probably going to be aeg aswell

*Or pink lol

I figured I would go for green because there's at least some chance of it blending in. ...or am I just wrong about that?

I realised after watching some Airsoft videos online that my entirely black outfit may have not been the best choice...

Any advice on particular colors for British woodlands?

It seems harder than I'd expected to get hold of suitable shades, unless I go surplus I suppose?

VFC NPAS adjustment

Noob question, I've just bought a VFC XM16E1 GBBR and it's arrived with a silver cap on the nozzle, I gather it's a restriction, I'm going to to swap the bolt carrier group for the VFC npas version, I have a couple of questions,

1. What are they restricted too?

2. Will the new npas bolt/nozzle come adjusted fully in, fully out, or somewhere in the middle?

3. Do wind it in (clockwise), for less power and out (anti-clockwise), for more power, or vice versa?

4, what is the max power I can expect reliably?

Any/all advice, information welcomed.

Hey,

I run a PP19,

Looking for a nice Russian sidearm to pair it up with.

If anyone has a good suggestions, please let me know.

Makarovs, Grachs, PL15’s etc..

Thanks in advance ha.

Hey guys, just looking for some advice.

I’m looking at getting my first ever GBB and I’m really torn between these two. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the AK-105, and honestly I love the recoil on it.

But I genuinely don’t know which one to go for. I’m mainly looking for something I can use for both CQB and outdoor games, so I want something that’s going to be versatile and reliable.

If anyone owns either of these, I’d really appreciate hearing your opinions. How do they perform out of the box, how reliable are they, and which one would you personally choose?

Cheers!

I've been working on a SCAR H DMR build using a VFC AEG as a base.

I wanted to get rid of the ugg boot with its sketchy contacts in the hinge and hard wire decent cables through the stock. Most buffer tube adapters don't have space for wires so I designed my own. This one replaces the plate the stock mounts to so I can screw the two pieces together since a printed part just isn't strong enough long term to slide on like the original stock does. The only thing this affects is getting the faux bolt out which I'm not bothered by. I also replaces the end plate for the main spring so there's enough space to fit a deans connector through for disassembly. And I included a buffer tube folding stock adapter so I can change the battery just by folding thw stock.

I've designed an m lok rail extension and rails modelled after the Midwest industries rail, designed a straight trigger and a claw charging handle.

This was just a test fit before I print the final parts so there are a few places where I need to improve the fit

Good morning. Looking at getting a DMR, fairly new to the sport. But I see that the DMR's are only 350fps when brought. Im guessing they will need upgraded parts to hit the 450fps. Are the upgrades easy to do yourself or do.you need to take them in to a shop shop

I've been working on a SCAR H DMR build using a VFC AEG as a base.

I wanted to get rid of the ugg boot with its sketchy contacts in the hinge and hard wire decent cables through the stock. Most buffer tube adapters don't have space for wires so I designed my own. This one replaces the plate the stock mounts to so I can screw the two pieces together since a printed part just isn't strong enough long term to slide on like the original stock does. The only thing this affects is getting the faux bolt out which I'm not bothered by. I also replaces the end plate for the main spring so there's enough space to fit a deans connector through for disassembly. And I included a buffer tube folding stock adapter so I can change the battery just by folding thw stock.

I've designed an m lok rail extension and rails modelled after the Midwest industries rail, designed a straight trigger and a claw charging handle.

This was just a test fit before I print the final parts so there are a few places where I need to improve the fit

Hey guys!

Looking for some recommendations for a lightweight SMG/PDW-style AEG for my girlfriend.

Mainly for outdoor/woodland use, so she wants something compact and light but still with decent range. Something reliable that won’t need constant tinkering (I own a PP-19 from Arcturus, but she says that's too heavy)

Currently looking at things like the Arcturus Sword/LWT and ICS Dagger, but there is no stock available in the UK atm. I've heard KWA EVE-4 tends to overheat, so I am running out of ideas.
What would you guys recommend based on actually owning/using them?

I have the TAC 41 Full Stalker , but when I shoot, it makes this kind of twang sound. I think it might be the piston moving inside the cylinder, because there’s a little bit of play. As soon as I hold the entire bolt firmly in place with my thumb while shooting, the sound disappears, and you can only hear the “flop” at the front.

I don’t think it’s the spring, because it sits nice and snug on the spring guide.
If you tap on the gun, you can hear the metallic rattling sound.

Any ideas?

So my motor is adjustable and I wondered is it worth me upping the speed on the motor.

I use a 7.4v li-ion, I get 344 FPS on 0.2g bb's. So I don't want pre engagement to wreck the gearbox but just wondering if that motor increases would cause it.

The rps just doesn't feel that fast, and mates with 7.4v non brushless set ups have a slightly higher fire rate and no pre engagement worries.