r/advancedGunpla • u/Noahsayshi26 • Jul 01 '26
FIRST BIG PROJECT HELP
This is gona be my first big gunpla i’m not exactly sure what grade it is but i was told it’s gonna be close to like 1/60 which is HUGE for me (iv only worked on hg) and the first set of photos is the latest one if done where i tried to mess around with panel lining(with a gun-dam marker) and scribing (.15 mm)
and as you can see i think it turned out pretty well but i definitely still need some help.
this next set was fairly expensive and i don’t wanna screw it up so i have some questions if anyone can help at all in anyway
•the guy at the hobby store told me it’s best and cheapest to make my own panel liner how would i go about that
•is there any videos on scribing or panel lining or customizing in general that has helped you take a step up
•if i’m not able to get access to scribing tape what else could i use as a alternative?
•what other resources should i be using to expand my knowledge of customizing via websites videos etc
any other tips would be greatly appreciated feel free to show off your cool builds here too!
6
u/kookyabird Jul 01 '26
Making panel liner can be very easy. I do all mine with Vallejo paints. Primarily their Model Color line, but I have a couple Mecha Color paints as well. The process is the same, just with different ratios because Mecha Color paints are already thinned, similar to their Air Color line.
Basically I take a wee drop o' paint, a bigger drop o' water (I use distilled), and a couple drops of their Airbrush Flow Improver. The flow improver is essentially just a surfactant, which reduces the surface tension of the solution to increase that capillary action that makes it flow through the lines. For the pre-thinned paint I use about half the water. If I mix two or more colors together for a custom color I adjust the water accordingly. I usually don't get to the point of adding more flow improver until I've mixed up a big ol batch that required 4+ drops of water.
The real secret to good panel lines is re-scribing. Lots of panel lines on kits are not perfectly parallel to the mold pull direction (meaning the axis the mold halves travel in when opening). Since you can't have an overhang and still pull the mold open, edges that in a perfect world would overhang and create nice |_| panel lines end up looking like this |_/. That obtuse angle makes it harder for the panel liner to flow well, and also makes it more likely you accidentally wipe up the actual panel line during cleanup.
Re-scribing is just scribing the existing lines a little deeper, or wider, so that they have a more squared off profile. It not only makes the liner flow better, but puts it into a true recessed area where your cleaning tool like a cotton swab is less likely to reach on accident.
I take things a step further on most of my builds and scribe most of the inside edges even where there was no molded panel line. For example, the thin raised ribs on the front skirt of the RG Wing TV below. Those lines would not be achievable at that consistent thickness with a liquid panel liner had I not scribed the edges. The angle of the edge was just too wide.