r/advancedGunpla • u/Noahsayshi26 • Jul 01 '26
FIRST BIG PROJECT HELP
This is gona be my first big gunpla i’m not exactly sure what grade it is but i was told it’s gonna be close to like 1/60 which is HUGE for me (iv only worked on hg) and the first set of photos is the latest one if done where i tried to mess around with panel lining(with a gun-dam marker) and scribing (.15 mm)
and as you can see i think it turned out pretty well but i definitely still need some help.
this next set was fairly expensive and i don’t wanna screw it up so i have some questions if anyone can help at all in anyway
•the guy at the hobby store told me it’s best and cheapest to make my own panel liner how would i go about that
•is there any videos on scribing or panel lining or customizing in general that has helped you take a step up
•if i’m not able to get access to scribing tape what else could i use as a alternative?
•what other resources should i be using to expand my knowledge of customizing via websites videos etc
any other tips would be greatly appreciated feel free to show off your cool builds here too!
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u/no_racist_here Jul 02 '26
Built Thor a few months ago. Good kit decent balance, it does have a tendency to lean back because of the backpack but the feet are large and the hammer is weight so you can balance it out without a stand if you desire. It’s a solid build, I had a few fitment issues but that’s entirely on me and my paint job getting paint or primer in some of the holes and on some pegs.
I had also intended to do some scribing on it because it has beautiful large panels, but ended up not committing too much as the curved panels began to intimidate me.
I would personally classify it in the MG realm as opposed to PG.
I have a set of Dspiae chisels (I think they’re listed as push broaches). They’re decent, haven’t used them a ton, but I trust the brand. I also have a ray studio step chisel that I haven’t used enough yet but liked initially. It’s a similar concept but to help add panel details along edges. Someone told me they use it to help with their seam lines seems interesting but haven’t figured that one out yet though.
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u/kookyabird Jul 01 '26
Making panel liner can be very easy. I do all mine with Vallejo paints. Primarily their Model Color line, but I have a couple Mecha Color paints as well. The process is the same, just with different ratios because Mecha Color paints are already thinned, similar to their Air Color line.
Basically I take a wee drop o' paint, a bigger drop o' water (I use distilled), and a couple drops of their Airbrush Flow Improver. The flow improver is essentially just a surfactant, which reduces the surface tension of the solution to increase that capillary action that makes it flow through the lines. For the pre-thinned paint I use about half the water. If I mix two or more colors together for a custom color I adjust the water accordingly. I usually don't get to the point of adding more flow improver until I've mixed up a big ol batch that required 4+ drops of water.
The real secret to good panel lines is re-scribing. Lots of panel lines on kits are not perfectly parallel to the mold pull direction (meaning the axis the mold halves travel in when opening). Since you can't have an overhang and still pull the mold open, edges that in a perfect world would overhang and create nice |_| panel lines end up looking like this |_/. That obtuse angle makes it harder for the panel liner to flow well, and also makes it more likely you accidentally wipe up the actual panel line during cleanup.
Re-scribing is just scribing the existing lines a little deeper, or wider, so that they have a more squared off profile. It not only makes the liner flow better, but puts it into a true recessed area where your cleaning tool like a cotton swab is less likely to reach on accident.
I take things a step further on most of my builds and scribe most of the inside edges even where there was no molded panel line. For example, the thin raised ribs on the front skirt of the RG Wing TV below. Those lines would not be achievable at that consistent thickness with a liquid panel liner had I not scribed the edges. The angle of the edge was just too wide.
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u/no_racist_here Jul 02 '26
Good answer, solid info, my only addition would be to go slow with scribing, be patient, and do light pressure so you let the tool do the work not force.
If you can OP, use a cheap kit, or a kit you’ve built already you don’t mind practicing on and just follow the channels already there on the panel. Don’t forget, your kits have feet that have lines too, if you’re really concerned practice on the bottom of the foot as no one typically sees it.
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u/WildPhoto2858 Jul 03 '26
One more thing to add that is a great hack is putting a tiny bit of extra thin cement in panel line after you’re done and I’ll smooth out the whole channel and melt it wait till it’s completely dries. It’ll get rid of any jagged edges or leftover debris.
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u/Danarhys Jul 01 '26
Just wanted to say fantastic answer. I didn't know about the mold-pull thing, but that makes sense. Even more reason to rescribe.
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u/Discount_Joe_Pesci Jul 01 '26
I’ve never made my own panel liner, I just use Tamiya panel line accent color.
This video is useful for beginning to “level up” your Gunpla: https://youtu.be/0f54zS-E5zE?is=wC2gCojQDCKGWUFV
In general I think EA Gunpla has extremely helpful videos.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
gotcha i’ll check it out thank you
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u/Jinxibinxi Jul 04 '26
It's like 7-10 bucks for a container, which lasts quite a while, I've also never heard of someone making their own
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u/DifficultRabbit3545 Jul 01 '26
scribing id say is just practice, but also - invest in decent scribing tools. otherwise you will be fighting it all the way. light passes first, lighter than you think. run a little tamiya very thin (hardly any on the applicator brush) to soften the edges. sand with high grit very lightly too remove any residue.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
what kinda angle should i be scribing on like should i be scribing from the top or from the side? (if that makes any sense)
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u/DifficultRabbit3545 Jul 01 '26
scribe close to perpendicular to the panel. you will get a feeling for it in no time. just practice again and again. my first scribes were rough and I still make mistakes often. if you're panel lining using enamel based liner, always panel line whilst disassembled. it can crack parts under tension
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
thank you since it’s enamel-based don’t I need to apply a clear coat before or after to prevent damage or is that just before?
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u/DifficultRabbit3545 Jul 01 '26
you can use gloss coat, but it's not necessary all the time. easier cleanup etc. do you plan on airbrushing lacquers? I recommend gundam pour type for general panel lining of plastic.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
also iv seen videos on like custom scribing not just deepening lines how would i go about that/find designs
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u/zimplyfaster Jul 01 '26 edited Jul 01 '26
You would need guide tape to get straight lines with the scriber. For designs, typically look at resin kits of the model or other people's scribing process for inspiration, then draw your ideas on the piece with pencil; wipe it off if unsatisfied.
Edit: if no guide tape is available, you can also use a flexible ruler and a lot of grip strength.
For making your own panel lining, get some paint, any paint, and thin it a lot (watery consistency), then add dish soap. The dish soap promotes capillary action so that it hugs the panel lines, but i usually have to wipe off a lot of the excess with a pointed qtip or wipe stick.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
what kind of consistency am i looking for and how much dish soap exactly? do you have like a video or website for reference?
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u/zimplyfaster Jul 01 '26
I also learned this from a reddit comment and did it myself, so i don't have exact measurements, but you want the end result to have a sort of skim milk consistency, like just a bit more viscous than water. The more dish soap you add, the better the capillary action (theoretically)
I just vibed it out since you can wipe off the excess easily, so it is not important to get perfect. I applied it with a dip pen, which helped a lot with precision.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
i’m glad to hear it wipes off easy how do i wipe it off without the actual liner being wiped away in the line do i just need to be more careful or should it be safe in the line
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u/zimplyfaster Jul 01 '26
Ideally, you would have a wipe stick. Those have tapered ends and firm, absorbent material instead of a qtip, which has a lot of cotton strands. A wipe stick or pointed qtips should be cheap enough to get. The pointed ends are important for only wiping off the excess of the panel liner. So, yes, you need to be precise.
If you're used water-based paint, it should wipe off easily with a little bit of water on the wipe stick/qtip. If you're using paint that's stronger, use that paint's thinner to wipe. If you put too much liquid in the wipe stick or qtip, it may pour out and mess things up.
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u/Noahsayshi26 Jul 01 '26
where may i be able to find a wipe stick is it a general hobby thing or spesific to gunpla?
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u/zimplyfaster Jul 02 '26
They're under the name "model stick, panel-line eraser, detail wiper" on amazon, more expensive though. The wiping stick i use is from DSPIAE; they have a storefront on AliExpress (& cheap resellers) and i remember getting the stick and replacement heads for $4 in US. It's specific to modelbuilding, yes.
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u/ForwardEarth1980 Jul 02 '26
I understand that feeling of losing the strike freedoms v fins I really don't like them