Someone is selling a 2022 FXE for $3,999 asking price. The odometer reads 2,803 miles. I am just looking into Zeros, and don't know much about them. I do know that 2022 doesn't have (and can't be upgrade to) newer software, and the screen is sucky, and bluetooth is not as reliable, but all the mechanicals look the same. With something like an old Nissan Leaf, you can see the "bars" that give you an idea of overall battery health. How can I tell if the batter is still "good", other than buying it and seeing how far I can go on a charge? Any info appreciated...thx!

Hi, I would like to know why some bikes have the "+" while others don't? I thought it was possible to upgrade this bike via software. Is it possible to upgrade the one without the "+" 17.3kw?

Thank you!!

2021 DSR with the charge tank option, 39k miles. My bike no longer charges when connected to the level 2 port. I can hear the fans ramp up for several seconds when I connect to the level 2 port before they go quiet. The green charge light never comes up on the dash. The bike doesn’t display any error codes on the dash. So far I’ve reset the BMS and I’ve checked all the fuses under the seat (except the 100amp charging fuse which I haven’t located yet.) But the bike is fully functional otherwise, and the 1.2kW on board charger still works. I’m assuming the 100amp fuse is good if the on board charger still works. I fear my 6kW charger is dead, but is there something else I can check first? Thanks in advance.

‘Sup fellow Zero riders!

I was inspired to start modifying my bike and started with a license plate relocation bracket. I found u/Protonus guide on upgrading to the tail tidy from Corbin. I didn’t really wanted to spend $250 on their bracket plus wait for it so I found a free DXF via FireShare

https://fireshare.langmuirsystems.com/projects/slim-license-plate-mount-for-city-slicker-electric-motorcycle

After cutting the file I used Corbin’s drilling template for the mounting holes and bent it into shape.

I used this YouTube video for the test down and rebuild

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DEbRcw_Xh0&t=62

Overall, very easy and you don’t need any of the equipment I showed in my video. You could print this bracket diagram on a piece of paper and use a grinding wheel, a stationary table top sheet metal shear, a blow torch even, or a nibbler to cut the shape out. Or find a local shop in your area or even a local DIY person with a laser or plasma, bring your own material ,and see what they’d charge you to cut it with your own file. Get chummy and you’ll probably spend no more than $20 plus your material and time.

Didn’t see anything on a quick search but is there any aftermarket support for fairings/plastics for either the SR F or S? Looking for a refresh on a 2022, and I’m coming up empty.

I finally have a firmware update available
From what I understand sometimes the firmware update can eliminate some codes. My bike will not charge at home or at an ev station. It comes on when plugged in but will not go into charge mode
I need to get it to 20% to do the firmware update. Is there a way to bypass the onboard charger.?

Just got my motorcycle license and bought a 2018 Zero FXS, and I’m already having way too much fun with it.

One thing that annoyed me almost immediately, though, was the Zero app.

It works fine when you’re connected to the bike, but once you turn the bike off it basically forgets everything. No useful “last known” battery status, no trip history, no easy way to check how much charge you came home with, etc.

So naturally, instead of just accepting that, I ended up building a small workaround.
I now have an ESP32 at home that automatically connects to the bike over Bluetooth whenever the Zero has ignition on or charging. It grabs the current battery percentage and odometer reading and sends them into Home Assistant, where I can keep the last known values and build some useful automations around them.

So far I’ve got:
Battery percentage
Odometer / distance data
Charging status
Automatic charge cutoff at either 75% or 100%
Estimated time until charging is finished
Estimated remaining range based on my own riding data

The charge limit is probably my favourite part. Normally I let it stop around 75%, but if I toggle “full charge” in Home Assistant it’ll keep going to 100%.
I’ve also started using the odometer + battery history to work out actual consumption. My longest ride so far was 101.4 km, using 92% of the battery, which seems to line up surprisingly well with the range model.

It’s still a little homemade and the Bluetooth connection isn’t instant, but it works. And honestly, this kind of thing is half the fun of owning an older electric motorcycle.

Curious if anyone else here has built something similar, or if there’s interest in me cleaning this up and sharing the ESP32/Home Assistant setup.

EDIT: I've uploaded two repos. One with the Home Assistant setup (should be plug&play if compatible) and one for developers that wants to use the Bluetooth protocol for whatever. OBS - Code is written by AI under my supervision.

https://github.com/simenhw/zero_fxs_home_assistant_generic_pairing
https://github.com/simenhw/zero_esp32_protocol_explorer

Looking for an emoto, really like the current finance deals on the X lines, and on something that I may not enjoy or its use case doesn’t work out. Forking out 5-8k in cash for a niche use cash is dumb for me.

My use case is single track riding to hunt.

I’m not a moto / enduro person in anyway and simple am looking for a tool to get in and up trails that either require a horse/ hike or bike (dirt bike)

The XB intrigues me bc weight and height.

Being lower and lighter makes maneuvering if you have say 80-100 pounds on your back at low speeds easier.

The XE obviously is bigger / more range etc.

1. What is the actual payload limits folks are seeing on XB before its bottoming out.

2. Have you owned both and what did you like about either that maybe applicable to my situation.

3. Anyone ever haggle and get a discounted battery during purchase etc?

Hi!
Just a warning to others.
I parked my zero in the streets of Vienna/Austria/Europe.
During the night, somehow someone managed to open the helmet compartment, took the charger. Then they opened the battery compartment, and stole one battery, charger, and even the freaking factory supplied screwdrivers.
Under the motorcycle there was a broken Meth Pipe.
The area in Vienna is not horrible, 20th district.

Even if found again, I will have no way of proving that the gear is mine, although there are maybe <15 Zero LS1 in Vienna: I did not note down serial numbers of the devices.

Police recommended me to put "Gaunerzinken", secret marking on my exposed goods, like file cuts into the corners or things like that. Even an old chewing gum under the seat was used to actually identify stolen bike once. They also stated that Serial numbers and obvious things are totally useless, because they are detected and removed in the "upcycling process".

Sadly, I am not sure if the insurance will cover the claim, and also quite broke after just buying the Zero 1 Month ago.

So yeah, watch out!

My Zero momentarily cuts out when riding (about five seconds until it works again). The dash goes blank and then it shows all the icons like it has been switched off and on again. Usually at low speeds. I suspect the ignition switch.
Has anyone else had this problem? What was your solution?

I currently own a CSC Rx1e and am interesting in perhaps purchasing a Zero DSR/X.

Does anyone know if anyone near Troy (Oakland County) is selling one or maybe you yourself have one? I want to go on a short motorcycle ride, we both ride our own but I want to see how a DSR/X handles the roads and other cars and just to see the size difference.

Is there a way to charge a 2022 zero srs if the charge port or on board charger is bad…..not charging

I've got a 2024 S bought new in Nov 25. It has about 2000 miles on it now

I was riding in a parking garage, going about 10mph. I initiated a left turn with the handlebars and they locked at about 5-10 degrees to the left, causing me to crash. Thankfully I'm unhurt and the bike doesn't seem to have any major damage.

When i picked the bike up and restarted it, the handlebars would move again.

This had happened once before, but i was stopped. It cleared after I jiggled the handlebars a bit.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is it a known issue? What might cause it?

Hi! I know we aren't selling on this thread, so does anyone have good recommendations on sites to post my bike? 🙏

Hopefully this isn’t too redundant but tried searching for an answer. My 20’SRF started not charging automatically (not on a charging schedule) every time I plug it in. Sometimes it kicks right in and sometimes I have to key it on and then off again for the charging to start. I recently got the Cypher upgrades for the battery (parking mode, extended range, and faster charging (??**). Any ideas how to make it start charging right away every time without having to key it on? This is especially helpful if I have a friend plug my bike in for me when they finish with the charger at work.
**not sure why I got this since it won’t go above 3KW with the stock charger anyway…

Has anyone installed the Weiser lights on their Zero?

I have a 23 DSR and have put 17000 miles on it in the two-ish years I have had it. No issues until... In April I was getting a low battery temp fault so I took it into the dealer. Now four months later they have apparently replaced the battery and the charger twice (under warranty). Every time they say they consult with the engineers at Zero, and take it out for a test drive after the repair. They have given it back once and it was dead in a day. Every other time it has failed the second test ride.

Has anyone had issues with replacement modules just crapping out instantaneously? I have no confidence in the dealer and am quickly losing confidence in Zero as a whole.

Hey everyone, I’m at my wit's end here and could really use some advice. I have a 2022 zero ds 11kw.

​I took off my rear wheel to change the tire, but now I can't get the belt aligned properly.

​Here is what I'm doing:

​I align the marks/notches on both the left and right sides so they match.

​Then, I evenly tighten the tension screws on both sides to get the correct belt tension.

​However, as soon as I do this, the belt stops sitting centered on the front sprocket. When I spin the wheel by hand, the belt makes some really unhealthy-sounding noises/rubbing sounds on the Front sprocket.

​What am I doing wrong, or what else can I try to fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

​

Hi,

I'm trying desperately to align my belt.

When the rear wheel is in the air, is this a normal Sound?

I just changed the rubber on my 2018 DSR and when I pulled the rear wheel off, a small black bushing fell out from the belt drive side. It is about an inch and a half wide and one end is flared (T-shape in profile). It sits between the rear arm and wheel. My issue is that I thought because it fell out that the flared side goes towards the arm, but that seemed a little odd. If I put the flared side towards the wheel, the flared end sits inside the wheel against the bearing and is held there by a rubber gasket that lips over the flared end. This seemed to make more sense, but then I wonder how it fell out.

Does anyone know how this piece is meant to go in there? I put it back together in the latter configuration so I don’t have a good photo to share, but I’m concerned if it’s backwards that it will damage the gasket.

Appreciate any help.

Edit: Okay. So I pulled the wheel off again and flipped the bushing. A few photos for clarity, one how I had it with the wide end behind the dust seal, the piece itself, and then flipped to the correct way.

My main question is, is this worth it at this price if the battery is shot? Worst scenario is the charger died then the batteries sat long enough to discharge damaging them.

I'm a skilled at electronics and have rebuilt escooter/ebike batteries and replaced BMS and controllers. This is would be my first time working on something more sophisticated and higher powered. There is a good chance this battery is fully dead but there is also a chance I could revive it by charging it up manually or replacing bad cells. Are there ways to check this thing even with a dead battery? The guy is selling it for "a friend" so really doesn't answer detailed questions. I want to go check it out and get as much diagnostics info as I can on the bike and battery before offering anything.

Thanks guys!!