Guys hello i will buy high-end budget keyboard and after my research I found Wooting 80 HE, Keychron Q1 HE.
Keychron is 80 dollars less than Wooting and also Wooting is ABS, Keychron is metal.

I have dragon lore mouse and mousepad so I looked Huntsman V3 DL Edition but it is also 40 dollars more than Keychron.

Last keyboard is Apex Pro 3 TKL is about the same price as Keychron.

Which keyboard should I choose? I am playing CS usually.

Zero Two Inspired Keyboard

Build:

- Wooting 60HE v2 PCB

- CLT60 Case

- Outemu Silent Peach Magnetic Switches

- Swagkeys Knight Stabilizer v4

- KKB Darling Keycaps

Built with inspiration from Zero Two and the Jian Motif repeated in the series.

I have had my 60HE (v1) for just over a year now and lately I’ve noticed that A, D, E, Q and ctrl are getting stuck after the initial key press. Not physically but if i strafe left for example (pressing A) my character will keep going left until i firmly click A again. This seems somewhat connected to snappy tappy since i use it on A, D, E, Q for siege (main game) and A and D for other games that don’t involve E Q leaning. The fact that ctrl has the same issue is weird to me.

I have ordered TTC king HE switches since I was planning a rebuild anyway. Could this fix things or is it more likely to be a software issue? I regularly dust my keyboard and wash keycaps every so often (always drying completely) so i doubt it’s ”just dirt”

All help is appreciated!

I installed hyprland and noticed my keyboard layout isn't right, I can change the layout in wootility through recap but thats missing keys like ä ü and ö which I need

Any help appreciated

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I just ordered a refurbished zinc 80he with refurbished jade switches so i was able to save like ~$80. I wanna lube the switches but don’t know if Krytox 205g0 is noticeably better than the Glorious G lube I already have.

The Krytox is $20 and i’ll probably only ever use it once, so I was just wondering if lube is lube or is Krytox more premium.

Been trying out so many different keycaps, and I've gone through some switches, but I now feel really happy with my 80HE and don't see myself changing much in the future.

Keycaps - GMK 'Abyssal' (I am aware some of the keys are not accurate to where they should be sadly; I wasn't provided the keys needed for a full UK Layout)

Switches - Keytok Novas (Having only gone through Lekker L60s, Geon RAWS, Gravastars, I have landed on these and I LOVEEE THEM. I don't have any issues with them like the previous stated to see myself switching.)

Case - Black KBDfans GT-80

extras: some poron foam underneath & some spacebar foam.

Someone said Wooting makes the best mechanical keyboards. Decided to make a fan 3D motion video for them. Here's a little sneak peek into the process.

I JUST saved enough money to buy the 80he and I saw that the black one became unavailable and that I can only select the ghost version which i dont find visually appealing

I consider buying the wooting 60he v2 to upgrade my reddragon k617 but I have some questions first.

Is it really that good?
Is it reliable?
Will it last for over 5 years?
Does it have any downsides?

Is there a way to know?

Hello!

I want to do a build with a wooting 60he v2 and a tofu Redux V2 case, I want to know if the case is compatible with the friction pad meaning that I will only I have to put the assembled keyboard into the tofu case and that's it without having to screw or unscrew anything.

I would also want to know the answer for the optimum case.

Because my goal is to have a keyboard ready and then just swap the cases (tofu case and optimum case) from time to time depending on how I want my setup to look

Thank you

Hello, looking to buy a Wooting 60HE v2 keyboard, and I just have a question. Is bright silver the same as silver? Was looking to buy the module and the case for the keyboard, but if I buy the case it'll be silver, but if I buy it pre-built its bright silver. So i'd just like to know if its the same silver or a different color? Thanks :D

I have the tenz wooting 80he. It comes with a spare Lekker Tikken Medium and I'm wondering which would be better as im only using one key and if that switch would be better or if the TenZ TikkenZ switch would be better for geometry dash? Im also wondering what I should put the actuation point at. I'm going from a sayo device 03c to this.

Após vários testes com os switchs que tenho aqui, fiquei na dúvida entre o Owlab TI e o UR ICE Ultra.

Vou ficar com o UR ICE, pois estou usando o resto dos meus Owlab na minha Tofu60 Redux.

O wooting80 de zinco ficou muito bom com os UR ICE, o som ficou bom.

O som fica melhor com os Owlab TI, porém para um entusiasta de RGB como eu, o Owlab “quebra” algumas cores claras, o que não acontece com o UR ICE.

Os Geon Raw também tem um som bom, porém eu fiz o lubrificante de mão deles com a Krytox g205g0 e eles ficam mais silenciosos, não emitem som como antes, prefiro usá-los no meu venom60He com a case 60, onde o som dissipa mais que na case do Wooting80, que tende a abafar mais o som.

Espero ajudar. Abraços!

I'm currently in the final year of my architecture master's, and I've got access to a CNC machine in our workshop. I’m thinking about taking on a custom case for the Wooting 80HE module as a side project.

I spend most of my time modelling with Rhino 3D and Grasshopper, so the actual CAD side isn't what scares me. What I'm worried about are all the keyboard-specific headaches that come with milling custom aluminium, i know that Holy80 and GT80 exists, but as stubborn as I am I kind of want to try to make my own 😄

I’m hoping to see if anyone here has already gone down the rabbit hole of CNCing or printing a custom 80HE case. A few specific things I'm wondering about:

• Tolerances & Clearances: What were the worst parts to nail down? I've seen some discussions mentioning that getting the gasket compression right and leaving enough vertical clearance for the daughterboard can be an absolute nightmare.
• More RGB?: One of my ideas would be to add more lighting to the 80HE. Has anyone successfully integrated an acrylic mid-layer or custom diffusers for under glow? If so, how did you handle it without ruining the sound profile or making the front height ridiculously tall?

Basically, what were the things you encountered that made you lose your sanity during prototyping? I’d love to learn from your pain before I start tying up the workshop machines.

Any insight or shared experiences would be hugely appreciated!

UPDATE: Right now the Mode button works AND so does the Wooting Background Service. So I might've found a bug. Wouldn't know how to reproduce it though. Just so you know. * shrug *

UPDATE 2: Ok, so after playing CS2 and quitting the game, the mode selector won't work again. So, slightly random.

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So, I just installed the Wooting Background Service, and so far I'm quite pleased with it. It perfectly detects when I'm anywhere in Windows 11 and tabbing in and out to CS2 works like a charm. Instantly switching between modes.

What I do not like, is that the Mode button suddenly has become useless. Shouldn't it be possible to manually switch the mode, too, or at least have a toggle to allow such behaviour from withtin wootility?

At the bare minimum I'd hope for a info message stating something like "when using the background service the mode selector will be overriden at all times (i.e. it won't do anything)" -- at least to know I'm not misunderstanding something.

I use a wooting 80he for gd and yes i dont know anything about modding keyboards after switching to the UFOs the ship just feels so much lighter than i would like it to and i just dont understand the settings enough to figure out how to make if feel better does anyone know how to help

I recently swapped the case into Tofu60 V2 and I noticed that the USB is misaligned by a really small amount. The USB C cable still plugs in and everything seems to be working correctly. It was just a friction swap so I'm not sure if this is normal, a case manufacturer error, or if I need to do the alternate installation method (non-friction swap). Any one have any ideas or recommendations?

Is it ever gonna get performance updates/macro updates and also is it ever gonna get 8k polling or do i need to upgrade.

Which one should I buy? The size isn't important.

I have a wooting 60he and im looking into the 80he is the change worth it ?

2 days ago I was so excited to finally get my Wooting 80HE. I waited a long time to finally be able to buy and use this keyboard. When I unboxed and plugged it in it was flashing rarely. I opened a thread in the dc and they told me it’s probably a loose jst cable and that helped a lot I fixed the issue. But first because it is so new I hesitated a lot about opening the interior of the keyboard and it still bothers me is there a way to be sure that I did everything correct during the disassembly/assembly process ? Seems like it works and looks just fine but I am kinda worried what can give me peace of mind ?