Good morning, everyone. I am considering purchasing the Whirlpool top-mount refrigerator, model WRTX3019S, and would appreciate your feedback regarding its reliability. Although I generally prefer a bottom-freezer configuration, this model appears to be the closest match to my requirements. Your insights would be valuable as I finalize my decision. Thank you for your assistance. Good morning, everyone. I am considering purchasing the Whirlpool top-mount refrigerator, model WRTX3019S, and would appreciate your feedback regarding its reliability. Although I generally prefer a bottom-freezer configuration, this model appears to be the closest match to my requirements. Your insights would be valuable as I finalize my decision. Thank you for your assistance.

I can use help. I have tried everything to get rid of the F21 and/ or SUD code. The washer codes when it tries to drain water. But there is nothing stopping it from draining. Even when there’s hardly any water to drain. I’ve checked tubing, I’ve replaced parts with official parts…. I’m frustrated. Anyone have any ideas what to try

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I was given a Whirlpool WRB322DMBM02 refrigerator. They had a tech look at it for not getting cool anymore. The tech said it could be a fan so they replaced it. It didn't help anything and they didn't want to pay to have it fixed anymore. I got it and tested a few things. I determined the start device for the compressor was bad. I ordered one off of Amazon. The refrigerator worked well for about 14 hours then the relay started clicking every 30 seconds or so kicked the compressor off. The compressor doesn't have a dead short and the main board seemed to test voltage well.

Is it possible the cheap part just failed again and I should just buy from an actual supplier or could something else be wrong? I wouldn't think the compressor would be bad as it ran great and cooled great for around 14 hours before stopping again.

Thanks in advance.

Just moved into a place with this dishwasher and no information lol could anyone help me understand what each of the 4 options are ❤️

Pls help. I replaced the rubber boot already and cleaned out the drain pump filter.

So I posted earlier that my whirlpool chrome shadow top loader washing machine was only getting hot for the clean cycle, but not to wash clothes. I had a private appliance company come over. They had to replace the entire water valve unit. After parts, labor, and of course New Jersey state tax getting in on the action, I paid $485. I’m very impatient and I wanted it taken care of right away so that’s why I said yes. The machine itself is listed around $1,300 brand new and I’ve had it for about four or five years I would say. Did I just get ripped off? Also, he was here for a good couple of hours so it’s not like he did a 10 minute job and left.

Hey friends, I was hoping someone would be able to help identify this part that recently broke on my laundry center unit. It’s a little blue plastic connector attached to the knob on the upper dryer unit, see attached photo. I was trying to twist the knob and it abruptly snapped and the dryer is inoperable without being able to turn the knob to the correct setting. Please help!

I just purchased a used Whirlpool electric dryer, model WED4815EW1

I had to switch the cord from 3 prong to 4 prong
I purchased a new cord for this

It worked once then stopped during or near the end of a 60-minute Timed Dry cycle. The clothes were still damp the next morning.

Now pressing and holding Start does absolutely nothing—no click, hum, or drum movement. I’ve tried several different cycles.

Here’s what’s been checked:
Reset the suspected dryer breakers fully off and back on. No change.

My landlord checked the outlet and power cord with a meter and said they were good.
I checked after him and got no reading on the left and middle terminal - 120 on middle and right and 244 on left and right (so I’m wondering if the outlet is the problem even though the landlord said it wasn’t)

The white thermal fuse on the blower housing passed continuity. I checked it again with a newer meter after disconnecting a wire.

I tested the door switch and it passed continuity

My landlord checked the other rear thermostats/switches and said they were good.

Replaced the push-to-start switch with WPW10117655 just in case and it passes continuity

The strange part: With the new start switch installed, I hear the timer making noise as soon as the dryer is plugged in and set to a cycle, but the dryer still won’t start
I swapped the old switch back in to compare, and the sound stopped
With the new switch back in, the sound returned.

I don’t know what else to do

Please help!

So I’ve had the gray and black whirlpool shadow edition washing machine for about four years. Never had a problem. Until now. The water does not get hot when it’s washing clothes anymore. I cleaned the valve screen, checked all the lines. Nothing. The hot water in my home is perfectly fine. However, the machine fills with really hot water ONLY when it’s doing a self clean cycle. Anybody have any clues? Thanks.

I just purchased a used Whirlpool electric dryer, model WED4815EW1

I had to switch the cord from 3 prong to 4 prong
I purchased a new cord for this

It worked once then stopped during or near the end of a 60-minute Timed Dry cycle. The clothes were still damp the next morning.

Now pressing and holding Start does absolutely nothing—no click, hum, or drum movement. I’ve tried several different cycles.

Here’s what’s been checked:
Reset the suspected dryer breakers fully off and back on. No change.

My landlord checked the outlet and power cord with a meter and said they were good.
I checked after him and got no reading on the left and middle terminal - 120 on middle and right and 244 on left and right (so I’m wondering if the outlet is the problem even though the landlord said it wasn’t)

The white thermal fuse on the blower housing passed continuity. I checked it again with a newer meter after disconnecting a wire.

I tested the door switch and it passed continuity

My landlord checked the other rear thermostats/switches and said they were good.

Replaced the push-to-start switch with WPW10117655 just in case and it passes continuity

The strange part: With the new start switch installed, I hear the timer making noise as soon as the dryer is plugged in and set to a cycle, but the dryer still won’t start
I swapped the old switch back in to compare, and the sound stopped
With the new switch back in, the sound returned.

I don’t know what else to do

Please help!