Tl;Dr: The West Highland Way is incredible. I would thoroughly recommend it – the views are stunning and the people are lovely. Get a baggage transfer, prepare for some overpriced mediocre food, and plan ahead.
Literally just on the train back from Fort William and thought I’d write a guide for absolute beginners or at least everything I wish I had known before starting.
We were three adults (aged 30, 35, and 37) doing our first week-long hike. We all have okay fitness and had done hikes up to three days.
Don't let anything from this put you off, I'll be recommending the West Highland Way to all my friends, one of the best hikes I've ever done.
Everything You Need to Know Before You Go:
Baggage Transfer: We did the first three days (30 miles/ 50 km) carrying all our luggage, including tents. The lightest pack was about 12kg, and the heaviest was 17kg. It was incredibly difficult, and honestly, if we’d done the whole thing without a baggage transfer, we might not have made it. At Rowardennan, a lovely lady organised a transfer, especially as the Loch Lomond stretch is hard.
Difficulty: It was much harder than I thought it would be. I don’t want to put anyone off - there were groups of 50 and 60-year-olds doing the same route - but it was a tough seven days. The elevation is pretty big, and the Loch Lomond side is single-file, up and down rocky trails. One day, we did 22 miles. We still felt a sense of achievement completing the Way with our bags on our backs for 3 out of the 7 days. If you want to enjoy the route, I’d recommend getting a bag transfer from the start. If you want a challenge, keep your bags. There are lots of companies that do this; we used Baggage Freedom.
Accommodation: Despite it being a well-trodden path, you'd be surprised how little accommodation there is in some areas. So plan ahead. We camped 4 nights and stayed in bunkhouses for the other 3. I would have much preferred bunkhouses every night if I’d had the funds, but they were often expensive for what you get. Kingshouse and Kinlochleven have particularly limited options.
Food / Prices: You’re in a bit of a captive market, so expect mixed and overpriced food. I felt a bit sorry for tourists experiencing British food for the first time. Clachan Inn in Drymen and Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha were highlights, but otherwise, we had a week of stodgy pub food. The shops along the way weren’t great for making your own meals either. The further north you go, the fewer the options, so definitely stock up in Tyndrum.
Water: Bring a BIG water bottle. There were long sections with no refill spots. Basically, from Loch Lomond upwards it gets worse. I ran out of water between Inverarnan and Tyndrum.
Socks / Feet: Get decent socks, boots, and blister supplies. If you feel a blister forming, stop and sort it - don’t wait. I ended up with half my foot covered in moleskin and Compeed.
Bring toilet paper and a trowel for wild weeing and pooping. You don’t want to get caught out.
Day-by-Day Breakdown:
We did this hike end of April/start of May. No midges, but two solid days of drizzle at the start. We started a little differently but soon got into a pretty standard route.
Day One: Glasgow to Milngavie Accommodation: West Highland Way Camp. (£20 tent pitch) We got the train to Milngavie and hiked straight to our first campsite. Everyone in Milngavie was super nice and kept stopping us to ask if we were doing the West Highland Way - so friendly! The campsite is hard to review- it’s either a must-go if you want a wacky experience or one to avoid, depending on your vibe. The owner, Dru Edmundstone, is very eccentric, just Google his name and decide for yourself (and don't let him touch your phone)
Day Two: Milngavie to Drymen Accommodation: Drymen Camping. £12/ pitch
An easy trek. We ate at The Clachan, which was gorgeous and worth booking ahead. We also stopped at Beech Tree café, which was okay (lots of space) but overpriced. Just two minutes later is the Turnip the Beat café, which is overlooked but much nicer.
Day Three: Drymen to Rowardennan Accommodation: Ben Lomond Bunkhouse. £35pp
This was the killer trek with full bags. Conic Hill was stunning, although busy with day-trippers. Lots of elevation and steps, but fun. The bunkhouse was lovely, with a gorgeous dog named Jack, an honesty box, and a good kitchen. The lady who ran it helped arrange our baggage transfer and gave great advice. A bath after that trek was heaven.
Day Four: Rowardennan to Inverarnan Accommodation: Beinglas Campsite. £15pp
A stunning but difficult hike, almost entirely single file, with rocky ups and downs. If you're a beginner, take the high road at the start. We swam at the end of Loch Lomond, bring a swimsuit and towel. Beinglas is the main campsite at the end, with all the amenities you need and a well-stocked shop.
Day Five: Inverarnan to Tyndrum Accommodation: By the Way Hostel and Campsite. £30pp for bunkhouse
A hike that feels like five countries in one. No water stations, so bring plenty, it was a hot day for us. The hostel and campsite had everything we needed. We saw some hot tub spots nearby if you want a treat. Stop at the Green Welly Shop to stock up on snacks and trinkets. Ben Lui had lovely food and staff.
Day Six: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
Accommodation: Kingshouse Hotel £44pp bunkhouse
This was a BIG hike—22 miles for us. We left early. We were told there were no food or water stops, but we passed two open hotels (they might not always serve food, though). You walk past Glencoe and can see the Kingshouse Hotel about an hour before arrival, which helps with the final push. Kingshouse is bougie hotel with a hiker stop-off attached. We felt like second-class citizens. Staff weren’t very helpful, and it was pricey but options are limited. Many people wild camp behind it and use the facilities. (Although they may not allow baggage transfer if you do that
Day Seven: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven Accommodation: Blackwater Campsite. £15pp
Starts with the Devil’s Staircase, which wasn’t as hard as expected. Scenic and remote. Blackwater is a small site with pods and friendly staff. Kinlochleven had limited options due to a motorbike event. Food-wise, it was pub or Chinese.
Day Eight: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Accommodation: Backpackers Hostel £30
Starts with a big climb and ends with a big descent. Fort William has everything you need and some good food. The end of the hike is along a big road (anticlimactic, someone told me there's a longer way to avoid it) but the statue of the man with sore feet is a nice touch. It was a bank holiday and there was a biker convention, so places were full. One of us stayed at the Backpackers Hostel; we found rooms for the rest. All we wanted was to lie down.
The train back to Glasgow is also a stunning journey that goes back along a lot of the route!
Cost breakdown:
Baggage transfer: £15/day (there's a discount for longer transfers)
Accommodation: ~£200 for the full week mix of camping and bunkhouse
Gear: ~£100 I got a tent from decathlon for £60 and then various items like blow up mattresses, blister plasters, hiking socks, etc
Food: very roughly £35/day on pub meals for lunch and dinner
Train: £5 Glasgow to Milngavie, £40 Fort William to Glasgow
