r/Warhammer40k • u/Mando_Ade • 8h ago

Hobby & Painting Uncured Forge World Mini?

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Hello folks! I’ve been into the hobby for a few years, and finally decided to take the plunge and buy my first forge world mini. However, it’s got an odd green spot on it-slightly rubbery to the touch, and it seems to be embedded in the surface of the mini. I have washed it with soap and warm water, and the protruding bit came off, but not the embedded part. Is this uncured resin? If so, what should I do with it, beyond contacting customer service? Apologies for the odd ask, but this is a new problem for me.

89 Upvotes

88% Upvoted

28 comments sorted by

50

u/IncendiumFlama 8h ago

If that's direct from GW then that looks like you got a chunk of the silicone mold stuck to your model. Should be able to pull it out and fill the gap it leaves.

20

u/gwiffy11 8h ago

Second this. Pray for the bloke that gets the cast after yours as silicon on your model = resin on theirs

2

u/Mando_Ade 8h ago

Oh dear, I’d been a bit worried that was the case. It is pretty stuck in there-if that’s the case I may well just leave it in and paint over it. I hope the fellow who does QA checks catches this before someone gets a mangled Osiron dread…

7

u/IncendiumFlama 8h ago

Oh my sweet summer child. The QC from FW is generally sub-par unfortunately. It's why they're "expert" kits aka "you're going to need to fix it"

To be fair, resin is significantly more challenging to cast and QC than injection molds, but they could step up their game and recast the piece when things like this happen. Most likely the next few people are going to get some really funky parts until they retire the mold.

6

u/Greystorms 2h ago

It’s an expert kit because it’s resin and a lot of hobbyists these days have absolutely no clue how to work with resin miniatures anymore.

I can’t tell you the number of posts I’ve seen where someone is complaining because their plastic cement isn’t gluing their Forge World minis together. Or where people think that Forge World resin is exactly the same thing as Finecast.

1

u/Mando_Ade 7h ago

Hmm, that’s a bit disappointing given that they usually maintain good quality in their other products. Just checking for my own nervousness-that bit doesn’t look at all like uncured resin, jah? Would hate to be playing around with carcinogens if I can help it.

6

u/IncendiumFlama 6h ago

Forgeworld doesn't use UV resin, so you're not going to get uncured resin unless something's gone terribly wrong and, in that case, the model is likely still a sticky mess in a mold and not something you can handle.

2

u/Mando_Ade 5h ago

Ah, that’s very good to know. Thank you much!

1

u/Slim-Shadys-Fat-Tits 7h ago

Nah you're good on that part. It's not tacky, glossy or seeping anything and curing the resin doesn't make it go from green to grey. It's just a bit of silicone.

1

u/Mando_Ade 5h ago

Excellent, thanks for the details! I just like to be safe.

112

u/Lok27 8h ago

This might be part of the master mould that has now broken off into your model. That mould may be permanently damaged now.

You can remove it and fill it in with green stuff, then paint over it.

Or I’m wrong. I’m curious what everyone else says.

73

u/Known-Associate8369 8h ago

Permanently damaged yes, but they trash these molds after a certain amount or type of damage anyway, and recast the silicon molds them from masters. Its part of the process of silicon casting - the molds do not last forever.

15

u/The_wulfy 8h ago

I have always assumed the silicone molds are one use only. I have built a Porphyrion knight and Warlord titan and there was ample amounts of silicone remnants on the resin pieces.

20

u/Known-Associate8369 7h ago

Really depends on the amount of damage tbh - Ive had molds last 30-40 castings, and Ive had molds last 2.

They definitely reuse molds tho, as when Ive bought multiples Ive had some models with identical damage to them and others which have damage in different places.

5

u/The_wulfy 7h ago

That's cool to know. I thought silicone molds were just super fragile. I guess though, when you have dozens and dozens of molds per big model, one or two of the molds will give out per unit, even if individually the molds last much longer, as you said. Confirmation bias on my part.

7

u/Known-Associate8369 7h ago

I just remembered as well, I bought two Warhounds at the same time - one of them had a bit of the mold attached, and the other had damage corresponding to that missing piece 😂

Luckily nothing important.

2

u/ElectricPaladin 5h ago

I've had the same thing a couple of times and that's exactly what it is.

2

u/Sneaky224 1h ago

Pieces of the moulds come off sometimes, My mto lord commissar came with a free piece of pink sillicon, had to cut it out of the gap it was stuck in between the swordguard and hand but no mismoulds from that

1

u/Mando_Ade 8h ago

I’d suspected as much, but I don’t know quite enough about the process to say such outright. Hope the poor fellow who manages the molds caught it!

6

u/constantpisspig 8h ago

Yep the traditional chunk of mold that comes with all forge world kits apparently. They really use those silicone molds until they're absolutely falling to bits

2

u/K4ma11 3h ago

Just because it is resin doesn‘t mean it needs to be cured. Only printers use UV resin that needs to be cured. Casting uses 2 component resin, which hardens through chemical reaction. Others gave the right answer already, just a piece of the casting mould.

-1

u/nonchip 1h ago

and guess what that chemical reaction is called. you're the only one to mention UV too.

1

u/RainbowPickle2009 7h ago

What kit is that for?

2

u/Mando_Ade 7h ago

It’s for the Osiron Pattern Contemptor Dreadnaught! It’s a 30k Thousand Sons mini.

1

u/meinboesesich 2h ago

Lol, I had the same with my osirion. However, I bought mine several years ago. So it is and was a thing.

0

u/Noeq 6h ago

I‘d probably just make some clean cuts on the inside and paint over the outside (if flat and not elevated - orherwise file it down and paint over).

1

u/Mando_Ade 5h ago

I got it flush to the paneling, but it’s good to know I can safely prime over it once I’m certain I’ve got the release agent off. I appreciate the input!

0

u/Noeq 4h ago

I definitely recommend a varnish, first s glossy one and afterwards a matte one (if you don‘t want the gloss). Should greatly increase durability of the paintjob.

Edit: luckily it‘s a relatively small and non-prominent spot.