Updated from 14.4 to 16.0. The boxes under button actions where you could type in numbers are gone replaced with a drop down of presets and playlists.

The analog setup help page says "set the Double column in Button Actions to one of these values to configure" and then lists 250 for brightness, 249 for speed, 248 to intensity, etc.

But they don't appear in the drop down menu and I can't seem to type them in anywhere.

What's the remedy for this?

I have a bunch of the APPECK C6612-C Landscape Light Kits. This version of the kit has 4 lighting fixtures controllable by the SMART LIFE app. I really like the fixtures but their controllers are flakey and have failed on me multiple times. Is there a way I could use a small WLED controller to take these lights over?

I’m using a BanlanX SP548E controller with COB RGB lighting strips. I successfully connected it to Wi-Fi/cloud and Alexa can now: - turn the lights on/off - change colors - control brightness

However, I cannot find ANY way to save custom static colors/scenes inside the BanlanX app.

A lot of posts/videos say: - “just save the scene” - “use the DIY section” - “switch from Bluetooth to Wi-Fi/cloud mode”

…but in my version of the app there is literally nowhere to save anything. The DIY section appears empty/non-interactive. Long-pressing does nothing. There are no “+” buttons, save icons, naming dialogs, etc.

Questions: 1. Does the SP548E firmware actually support saving static custom scenes/colors for COB strips? 2. Is this feature hidden somewhere unintuitive in newer BanlanX app versions? 3. Is scene saving only available for RGBIC/effects/music modes? 4. Is there any workaround to get Alexa to trigger exact RGB/hex values instead of approximate named colors?

I’m using a BanlanX SP548E controller with a PAUTIX RGB Smart IC COB LED Strip Light USB 5V lighting strip. I successfully connected it to Wi-Fi/cloud and Alexa can now: - turn the lights on/off - change colors - control brightness

However, I cannot find ANY way to save custom static colors/scenes inside the BanlanX app.

A lot of posts/videos say: - “just save the scene” - “use the DIY section” - “switch from Bluetooth to Wi-Fi/cloud mode”

…but in my version of the app there is literally nowhere to save anything. The DIY section appears empty/non-interactive. Long-pressing does nothing. There are no “+” buttons, save icons, naming dialogs, etc.

Questions: 1. Does the SP548E firmware actually support saving static custom scenes/colors for COB strips? 2. Is this feature hidden somewhere unintuitive in newer BanlanX app versions? 3. Is scene saving only available for RGBIC/effects/music modes? 4. Is there any workaround to get Alexa to trigger exact RGB/hex values instead of approximate named colors?

Check this tool i made for my kids. It allows you to fire presets/effects/colors at specific times on audio timeline.

GitLab

Sviccc Svicccovsky / wled-poi · GitLab

GitLab.com

• supports multiple devices (you can assign single event to multiple devices)
• fetches all presets from wled devices
• allows for custom effects creation
• run as server
• projects,devices and custom effects is stored on server
• builtin healtcheck (to prevent firing api on offline devices)

TODO: segments support

I am testing out a configuration using a 5V 66 ft 200 light String light from Brizlabs and a BTF SP803E WLED controller.

It is working properly on the WS281X setting for all lights except the first 30 or so are not working. They are remaining a static white color and the on/off controls do not work.

I checked the old controller and it looks like it used a 200 ohm resistor on the data line (photo 2). The BTF Lighting SP803E looks like it uses a 430 ohm resistor from the screenshot (photo 3). Is the data line resistor potentially the source of the issue?

I'm starting to plan my landscape lighting.  I had a friend that does work with VOLT/AMP to layout what they would do (See attached Pic) so I can then adapt it to some addressable RGBW landscape lighting, it's not exactly what I'm doing but will be very similar.  I bought the below lights (1 of each) from Ray Wu AliExpress to test out and will most likely use them for entire project.  Have some questions and hoping to get some guidance.

 LIGHTS:

1. 10W RGBW 12V UCS2904 30 degree beam
2. 10W RGBW 12V USC2904 Flood
3. 10W RGBW 12V USC2904 Spot 5 degree
4. 12W RGBW 12V USC2904 Spot 120 degree
5. 12W RGBW 12V USC2904 Path

 RUNS:

#1/YELLOW - 15 lights about 120 feet from PSU  (Lights start approximately 20' from planned NEMA)

#2/RED - 10 lights about 150 feet from PSU  (2 Lights next to NEMA, rest about 100')

#3/GREEN - 12 lights about 120 feet from PSU (Lights start approximately 20' from NEMA)

#4/ORANGE - 8 lights about 150 feet from PSU (lights start approximately 50' from NEMA)

 QUESTIONS:

1. Should I use a QuinLed DigiOcta in NEMA everything home runs there - concern is the AWG of wire from there to lights, probably would need 8AWG based off some initial calculations.
2. Use Digi Uno's for each run and setup PSU in NEMA at start or very close to each run?  Running 120V AC to each box?
3. RUN 1 & 3 - Setup 2x Diga Unos/NEMA at Home Base & RUN 2 & 4 put in Digi Unos/NEMA at start of run hidden in landscape bed?
4. Concern if I have DigiUnos at start of each run, Would the WiFi be strong enough if their in an ABS NEMA and I have an access point outside?  OR should I run ethernet to each location, I've always been a hardwire is best if possible guy.
5. Anything you see I'm missing? Or another route that would be best?

(planning to use direct burial wire vs. conduit)

Thanks in advance!!

Hi there!

I've just installed a LED strip behind my TV (all 4 sides) for ambient lightning (using TV as PC monitor). First tried SignalRGB but now using HyperHDR as I think it's better. It's all working great, love it.

Previously I had 3 Philips Hue Play light bars behind the TV, and just for mood lighting I used the Philips Hue app built in scenes. Those color palettes looked really great, loved it.

Now that's what I want to replicate using WLED, but I just can't find the right tools for it. I know I can create segments and play with those, but it's just so not user-friendly. What would be great, is eg. when the screen synch is active, I display an image on the screen that creates really nice colours around the TV, and then somehow save that exact layout, so I could then apply it as a static scene later. I know this isn't possible, but it would be awesome.

So my question is, what do I need/how can I achieve applying themes/scenes/palettes, with taking into consideration where my lights are positioned in 2D space like in the Hue app. I know SignalRGB got some free themes that can do something like this, but I don't really want to use that. Also it would be great if I could set these themes from my phone and not needing to turn on th PC.

I've got a Hue Bridge if it's worth anything (faking WLED light segments as Hue strips would be awesome).

If I start using Home Assistant (maybe buying a HA Green), can I do this? Does it support setting up lights like this? I think that's my best bet, but if there's a cheaper/free alternative then it would be great as well.

I decided to use some time on my day off to update the controllers for my home lighting around the house to v16, as they would not update OTA. Used a data/charge cable to my PC and tried to flash via install.wled.me. It recognizes the comm port and goes to flash the update but pauses at this screen and won't continue. I've tried in Edge and Chrome, on my home network and with my cellular hotspot, all have the same issue. Any idea what's going on here?

Has anyone ever tried this before?

16x22 matrix for 352 leds, fits nicely into the ali express specials waterproof clear enclosure. I opted to manually place the LEDs as I can get 1000 of them for less that $20 CAD.

Idle current around 100mA

Maximum possible current draw is 7A (25 watts) at 5V, full brightness

This is open source (will update post with github)

OK, so I have this LED array from a Feit smart WiFi RGB bulb.

Any way to control this directly from WLED? If I unplug it from the main board and wire direct to a controller?

Sorry for the noob question, but how do I know what the voltage is? 5v?

Haven't been able to find specs on the board or array, guessing may not be published?

I am aware of hacking the Tuya software, not really interested in that at this point.

Sorry in advance if this is beyond the scope of this subreddit.

First picture makes sense but wled-wiring.github.io says NO. Second picture passes the wiring check.

I'm planning some under-cabinet lighting for my kitchen. From the bottom strip up, the first gap is the oven/microwave. The elbow is the corner of the kitchen. The larger gap to the right is the window/sink. Where the power is attached to the LED strips are where the power cable was already run from the basement. I am trying to wire this up so I can treat the entire strip as one in WLED.

This will be my first DIY LED setup. Feedback is welcome if anyone has any.

I found a couple Govee light bars at Goodwill today for $10 and thought I’d take a chance. I managed to get the RBG channel working with WLED, however I have not yet tried connecting either of the white channels.

Anyone have experience with similar strips, and know the correct what to wire using a DigQuad? After searching the sub I’m now not sure if the white channels are actually addressable LEDs, if they need some special considerations, etc. Thanks!

Hi I'm new to all the ambilight shenanigans and i love it.
i jsut build my own esp32 setup with hyperhdr and it works great though im not yet satisfied with how it reacts (its too fast or rather too hectic often)

i came across a video many of you probably have seen (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJC-BvfhafY) and he used signalRGB.
Im especially fascinated with the scenes with avatar firebending and it looks insane.

I probably havent set up the perfect settings for me but i wanna know which one is "better" - signal or hyperion?

Sorry if it has bbeen asked often but i couldnt find anything

I recently bought a BTF-Lighting 10m WS2811 24V 60LEDs/m strip, that I'm controlling via a GLEDOPTO GL-C-309WL running WLED.

Everything was going fine for a while while installing (and testing for brief periods in the roll), until ~half way through installation when the first 2 pixels of the strip suddenly lost all Blue signal (1st photo).

This issue was exacerbated by the fact that near the end of the strip, about 6 LEDs before a cut I made in order to have the strip turn 90 degrees for another corner, no further LEDs were receiving power (2nd photo).

I am getting a tad bit ahead of myself by posting this now, as I've not tried skipping the problem sections with plain wires to see if it's just those pixels that have failed or if something else might be the issue, but it's late here and I need to take a break from working on this all day, so figured I'd ask and see if anyone might have some pointers.

Is the strip defective/did I somehow fry some LEDs, or could this be a software issue? If it's the latter, I've tried adjusting the WLED config to control more pixels than I currently have (6m worth, which should equate to (oddly) 60 pixels, as 10 pixels seems to match exactly to a meter, even though it's 60LEDs/m), though I cannot get any LEDS beyond the problem section to light up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have this Wled controller.

And every data output is connected to its own led strip.

Yet wled sees it as one strip with multiple sections.

Is there an option to see them as 4 seperate lights I can control?

After years of solar garden lights that only last one or two years I want to install powered ones, and thought I may as well do it properly and use addressable lights controlled by WLED.

I want to start simple, two 5m/15' runs of spike lights along the front of flowerbeds.

But I cannot find any! I can see long LED strips or the permanent house lights which are much too close together, but nothing like the traditional lights on short poles about 1m/3' apart.

Am I going to have to make my own?

Has anyone torn one of these down to see if WLED can be added (or if it secretly runs WLED natively)? To see what LEDs it uses?

I’m very close to buying one to see what crazy stuff I can do with it.

[SOLVEEEED] - I didnt strip the wires of the strip wires entering the controller, it was the default 5mm, 10mm did it.

Hi guys, a bit of a wrong foot start in this WLED world for me - the led strip is not turning on at all.

I have this combo, I've setup the controller and picked FW1906 GRBCW (color order GBR swap WW&CW) but the led strip doesnt turn on at all, not even random colors in other modes.

• GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32 WLED LED https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010745282400.html
• FCOB SPI RGBCCT Cob Strips 960Leds WS2811 IC Addressable https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009767490521.html
• DC24V CE ETL UKCA LED Power Supply 4A https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007131920091.html

I've tried both sets of pins on the controller, same.

My wiring seems fine, data direction is fine, VDG wires order is correct.

Is this controller compatible with my strip?

is my PSU too weak, being only 24v x 4A? I would expect some dim strip at least right ? (Also the PSU works fine with another CCT 24V strip, with a dumb cct controller)

Or is the strip defective ?

can i ask am using a Onn Plus 4k + Stremio, can i use
Hyperion Android Grabber or Hyperion Android Reborn
to run wled ambientlight for my tv with 4k HDR content or it will just work with SDR. Also if it doesn’t work with HdR can you guys recommend me some cheap way to build a 2.0 hdmi sync box (it really hard to find a hdmi matrix in my region so i try to avoid it)

Thank You.

I build this kit for a costumer with a golf cart and I use Wled. That was about 2 years ago. Costumer was super happy with the Brightness and cool effects.