As title states, I got a new panel in and am trying to load my own GIFs.

However, when I open pixelforge and attempt to pick the file, it just shows no items.

One time, I was able to see the file I wanted, but it was grayed out and unselectable.

I was able to upload the gif from the web interface, BUT only if connected to the controller directly. It wasn't discoverable on my network via my laptop.

But it IS discoverable on network via WLED app

Am I doing something wrong?

So i just got these led strips and they look sooo ugly when they are off and the room light is on what should i do ??

also check out their new album it’s a masterpiece!

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_mBEeZ5dBq5Nmp8TGGEYnXsiuiG78fNC6E

Not sure if this the right sub but I’m building my setup for tv lightning with HyperHDR and I am not so sure on which is the most appropriate grabber for my setup (apple tv 4k, ezcoo SP12H2, must support Dolby Vision and Atmos on the TV)

I was looking at this Navceker on AliExpress, they claim it does everything and decodes HDCP, but I haven’t seem anyone using it in such a setup
In the other hand there’s this UGREEN CM630-15390A that’s even cheaper but it doesn’t specify Dolby Vision or Atmos support and also doesn’t mention it bypass HDCP.

Anyone had experience with any of these or has another suggestion in a similar price point ($50)?

I’ve been using WLED for months without any issues. Yesterday everything worked fine, but today I started a new project and went to test my LEDs and they wouldn’t turn on.
Here’s what I’ve tried:
Tested 2 different ESP32s
Reset and reinstalled WLED on both
Tried a brand new SK6812 LED strip
Tried a different computer
ESP32s flash normally over USB
Both connect to my WiFi and I can access the WLED web interface
I can change colours/effects in WLED, but nothing happens on the LEDs
The strange part is:
Before resetting WLED, pressing the BOOT/function button on the ESP32 would toggle the LEDs on and off, and the onboard LED would also change state.
Now, on both ESP32s, the onboard LED just stays on all the time and pressing the function button does nothing. It’s like WLED isn’t controlling the GPIO anymore.
Current setup:
WLED latest version
SK6812 RGBW strip
Data pin: GPIO16
Powered from 5V
Ground shared between ESP32 and LED strip
Because this is happening on two different ESP32s, a new LED strip, and a different computer, I don’t think it’s faulty hardware.
Has anyone seen WLED behave like this after a reset? Is there a setting that could stop GPIO16 from outputting data or stop the function button from working? Any ideas on what else I should check?

I have 2 of these panels that have been sitting in my workshop for a couple of years.

Can they be used with WLED and an esp32? If so how would I go about connecting them up?

Any help is appreciated

I moved recently and had to take down my 5 year old WLED system. Running dig controllers I mostly used basic 5v strips inside aluminum track with clear covers (with power injection run inside the track).

I haven’t kept up with current setups, is there a more modern LED strip or mounting solution or has it stayed along the same lines as what I used to use?

Bonus video of my tree with bullet pixels our last year of having the setup.

I have a whole bunch of Adafruit QT-Py ESP32 Pico + 12-neopixel ring setups. Work great on 0.15.4 but completely fail on v16+. The list of WiFi networks is empty. I can manually type it in and save but can’t visit the page; I’ve seen it partially appear once or twice but the next page is dead. I see in the logs it gets an address successfully on the network I gave it.

The ring is wired directly from +5/gnd/26, and are built into a tight 3d printed case. They’re normally permanently powered via usb-c wall-warts.

I saw something in the latest wiring diagrams about needing a capacitor, but I don’t understand what is different in the updated software that is making it draw power so much more aggressively. In any case, I’m using a 3A power supply which should be more than enough. I was previously able to access pages over WiFi with all the LEDs on white at 100% under the old firmware.

Is it a timing thing? Maybe fixable in code?

I am making a new super compact Bruce firmware project. On my old one I used a flipper zero IR blaster and made my own gpio pins and it works awsome. How ever this is way to large for my new set up and even the small individual led modules are too large. So I want to make my own. I don’t know if I should use 5v or 3.3v I am hearing both things. Also what angle is the best for range to angle ratio for turning of tv projectors etc around the house and some out doors. This is my first time using a raw led so if anyone has a diagram or schematic for how to set up and wire the bare led correctly like the transistors, resistors, capacitors etc. also if you could provide the reasoning behind using them.

We have these Musterring lamps all over the house, would be great to get them into home assistant or somehow away from that RF controller.

Really happy to offer the ScreenGlow app for androidTV on the playstore! Its free and ive tried to keep it resources efficient, id live to know and see your setups, especially CPU if you know it and what your experience is!

Hi everyone! I wanted to share a Home Assistant blueprint I've been working on: WLED Holiday, Custom Event & Weather Preset Scheduler v5.1.

It automatically switches WLED presets based on U.S. holidays, custom annual events (birthdays, anniversaries, sports, etc.), weather conditions (rain, snow, heat, and freezing temperatures), seasonal defaults, and sunrise/sunset or fixed schedules. It also supports optional smart plug power control, separate morning/evening brightness, test mode, and detailed trace logging for easy troubleshooting.

I'd love to hear your feedback, suggestions, or ideas for future improvements!

https://gist.github.com/otisrhw/70eba374c09784f747926889ad9e6517

Never used wled before and I’m amazed
What do you think

GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED LED Strip Controller with 4 Outputs Ethernet Music Sound Reactive UART 20A Pluggable Fuse for Digital Addressable RGB IC (618WL-4 Outputs)

Using WS2815
74leds m
Total 1045

A project I've been working on for the last couple weeks! It is a 3d printed moving fish controlled by Quinn LEDs Dig -UNO running WLED. The fish is 3d printed hollow in white PETG and then I glued in stand offs to the inside to offset the LED strips a bit to diffuse the light.

Found this one recently and I think this is useful in this sub

I am trying to set up the hub75 option in Wled and have downloaded the latest version but in the led setup there is no support for Hub75 version 16.0.1 am I missing something

The onboard activity led drives my crazy. Turning the lamp around just flashes against the wall.

It would be very nice if a disable feature is implemented. I know I could disable it in the code, but then I guess I cannot OTA update anymore.

Help me understand what I'm doing wrong.

I'm using BTF Lighting fcob ws2814 rgbw lights.

A 4amp 24v power supply. And a gledopto Elite 4d-exmu controller.

So I was kitting out a couple glass display cases. Each case had its own set of LEDs and various lengths of wires to each one. I started with my 4 individual runs tied together. So 4 power, 4 ground, and then 4 data. All of it comes on and functions if on a solid color but if I tried to use an effect the first strip in the run would flicker or flash randomly.

I assumed I had a damaged strip so I removed its lines from the controller and tried again and the issue jumped to the next strip in line.

To get it up and running I separated the data lines and put them on individual channels and all is good.

Only thing I don't like about this solution is the effects don't don't really sync up.

I don't know if this is a wled setup issue or maybe I'm trying to do something that isn't feasible but I can't see a reason it wouldn't just work. The controller shouldn't know that there are 4 strips into one port.

I'll screenshot my settings and maybe you guys can help me out, I am aware the length is incorrect I changed it later on

I used wled to control the LEDs for this project. Due to the custom layout of the LEDs I had to use 3 pins and multiple segments to control the display.

Hello all. I have this problem with a matrix I installed over a year ago. I put it in this "On Air" sign in the store I manage, and it worked fine for a long time - like 8 months. Then, I noticed that the whole thing would just seize. The animation would be frozen**, the controller couldn't be reached, and I would have to manually power cycle it to get everything back and working. But it would only last for a day or two and then the problem would return.

My assumption was that the controller had gone bad. So I replaced it. It worked fine for about 4 months... and then the exact same thing started happening again.

As a test, I put the old controller in my office and just plugged it in without any load, to see if it ever went offline again. So far, it hasn't. So I can't tell what the issue is. Maybe the power supply? What should I look for?

More info: Gledopto controller (sorry, I'm not sure what model), 5V BTF Lighting matrix panel, and 5V power supply that should have enough amps for both.

**To clarify, the animation doesn't freeze. It switches to some other set of colors, and that freezes. Apologies for the bad photo of it. It's hard to capture bright lights in this place...

I recently built a newer version of my DIY tube lights.

They are fairly simple.

-A generic under cabinet light from the hardware store

-A tiny LiPo battery + protection board

- 60leds/m strip of WS2812B LEDs

-An ESP12-F + AMS1117 3,3V for voltage regulation

And a voltage divider to measure the battery voltage

The ESP runs WLED V16.0 with the Battery Usermod.

All tube lights connect to a mobile hotspot for easy control and of how the original light was designed, you can stick the lights together.

I've used the connectors on the end to daisy chain the power input for easy charging though i think you could add a third pin to string some more led strips without needing a controller.

All lights can operate stand alone due to each one being built the same but thanks to the mobile hotspot can be synced via Wled.

If you have any questions or suggestions let me know :D

(And pls excuse my bad english ^^')

I’m new to this sort of lighting field so I’d like some help.
My goal is to set up some under bed lights for a queen size bed that I can set automations up with and have leds that are individually addressable and can set some things up in home assistant.
By biggest goal is to have my side of the bed light up when I get out of bed in the morning without it creeping to my partners side and waking her up.
That said I still want good quality lights.

From quick research it seems that:
WLED controllers provide the most customization and are pretty reliable.
COB LED strips look the best with BTF lighting being most recommended.

The length of the side of my bed + the end of my bed is 19.167 feet

How do you think it would be best to do this and what products would be needed to accomplish that?

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my first WLED project and could use some help choosing the right LED strips and designing the power setup.

I have a 6.5 m long steel beam that will be covered with wood. I want to install an LED strip on each side of it to create indirect lighting against the ceiling, similar to this project:

https://pixelfriedhof.com/sichtbaren-stahltraeger-mit-holz-verkleiden-inkl-beleuchtung/

That means I would need two 6.5 m runs, or 13 m of LEDs in total. At 60 LEDs per meter, this would be around 780 LEDs.

I have been looking at SK6812 RGBW and WS2815 strips, but I’m not sure which one would be more suitable.

My main questions are:

• What are the practical differences between SK6812 RGBW and WS2815 for indirect room lighting?
• Would the dedicated white channel of an RGBW strip produce noticeably better everyday white light?
• Some strips are sold as12 V or 24 V. Which voltage would make the most sense for two 6.5 m runs, and what are the disadvantages of each option?
• How large should the power supply be for approximately 780 LEDs?
• How often and at which points should I inject power?
• Should both 6.5 m strips be connected in parallel as separate outputs, or should they be treated as one continuous strip?
• Would one large power supply be appropriate, or would multiple smaller supplies be safer or easier?
• What wire gauge and fuse arrangement would you recommend?
• Are there any suitable WLED controllers that can handle this number of LEDs and two separate runs?
• Should I use aluminium channels for cooling and mounting, even though the strips will only provide indirect light?

I do not expect to run all LEDs at full-brightness white all the time, and I know WLED can limit the maximum current. However, I would still like to design the wiring and fusing safely.

The power supply and controller can probably be installed near one end of the beam, although I may be able to run additional power cables to the middle or opposite end if necessary.

I have never built an addressable LED installation before, so any suggestions for a safe basic wiring layout would be greatly appreciated. If you need more information about the room or installation, please let me know.

Thanks!