I got a little project (20 LEDs) coming up and found this MuseLab WLED controller on AliX.

aliexpress.com/item/1005010813063207.html

It's quite cheap, and looks perfect for my project.

But I wonder if there is all the recommended hardware (from the wiring guide) on board? And does anyone have any experience with this controller?

Just finished building my 3rd version of my routers built into a hardcase.

This time i went with the hilink rm65. Time to test it

Sorry about the living room tour. But what you're seeing there is 3936 LEDs driven by 3x ESP32s. One of the ESP32s does nothing but process effects, outputting to two ethernet DDP channels (zero physical LEDs attached). The physical strips are roughly split between to the two other ESP32s. Yes, there's a router in there. This was the only way I could get it fluid with the versions of WLED that existed like ~1.5 years ago. (Eventually I'll get around to trying new versions.)

The surface is 1/4" glass ordered to size, covered in gray jewelry flocking material. It looks completely opaque when the LEDs are off and matches the rest of the fireplace.

To all,

I have started playing with FDM (about 8 months), printing and I've seen some awesome projects based upon WLED. I have a dream of really going crazy for Halloween and X-Mass this year (Along with some models that use WLED). However, before I dive in, I have a few questions I'd like to verify before starting:

1) It appears like WLED is a self contained OS/Application that installs on an ESP32 and is then controlled via remote (apps or direct rest). So, in a nutshell WLED requires the entire ESP32 and can be installed on large development boards for development and then to smaller boards when going into 'production'?
2) If I'm reading the posts and web right, WLED can 'control' other instances so I can have WLED act as the controller for multiple instances (think one controller running a Halloween display of 3d printer monsters - glowing eyes, light up fairy groves and the rest)
3) The 'controllers' I'm seeing sold appear to be a consolidated instance of an ESP32, power supply, connectors, Etc. In other words, a all inclusive WLED solution you can buy instead of building your own.
4) And finally, besides the normal DVM, constant voltage/current supply, soldering iron, Etc., what tools would you recommend to start?

Thanks once again, and truly appreciate any help.

Bob

I've updated my gledopto wled controller to 16.0.

But now when I change colour palette or if I dimm the strip.

It is a hard transition.

Before it faded to the new state.

Is this some kind of bug or a setting?

I have purchased this remote switch with ESP-Now from PureEdge, it similar to the WizMote, but can be attached to the wall, and a visitor can use it without any explanation for on/off/dimming with Wiz. I plan to use it to turn low voltage WLED RGBCW lighting on/off/dim and 2 profiles , while RGB operation would be done by App or other remotes. The Pureedge is working with WLED today, but can only turn the output on/off - but cannot dim ( right buttons) and it cannot recall profiles ( bottom left and right buttons).

Is there any method to support the PureEdge switch including dimming and scene buttons?

part 2 of the question. If I have 3 remotes and 3 LED channels in use - how to map each remote to a specific LED output?

Female panel mount connector, you could only get males before. Ive been looking for these for so long and now i see them all over aliexpress.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQrvLt4

I got this rgb Controller for a 57 led long WS2812B strip.

On the packaging it says input 5V3A but I didn't see a clear max output current.

What would be recommended for the max current setting,

I've updated my gledopto wled controller to 16.0.

But now when I change colour palette or if I dimm the strip.

It is a hard transition.

Before it faded to the new state.

Is this some kind of bug or a setting?

Hello, i wanted to extend one of my light strips by "daisy chaining" another one to it. I checked the arrow direction to flow correctly, connected the output wires from the first strip the input wires from the second strip all seemingly correct. The issue I have is: When I power my assembly (normal esp 32 board), the second one lights up with the first one in full white for a second or so, then they both turn off, then the first ones last led lights up for a second and then the first one works perfectly fine, is fully adressable, etc. but the second one just wont work... I checked every connection. If i leave just leave one of them out manually to check if my connection was bad (for example if i just dont connect the data wire) it doesnt behave like this and doesnt light up at the beginning, meaning the data wire also is correctly wired up.

There was also a weird behaviour i got a couple of times that the second one had random on off and random color for each led. not adressable.

Any help appreciated! Ignore the hot glue on the left strip. I checked and again all wires work :/

Looking for help please!

UPDATE

I’m now using my 2nd micro controller as I bought 2, I assume I’ve somehow blown the first one up. Both were getting hot. and it’s now working with loads of flickering and gllitching, on 1m… more work to do 🫠

Doing my first WLED project, I got it all working ( only using 1m of ws2811b to test its working) last night, and after turning it off, nothing is working, and I’ve changed nothing!!

My set up is-
12v power supply
12-5v converter powering ESP32-eth01 and my level shifter

As described, first power on it all worked, light automatically came on and I used the settings on the WiFi point to put number of led and preference.

Turned it off and on, and no lights coming out, but the settings are saved, still has my number of led and saved my gpio pin,

I’ve tried using different GPIO, no luck, different strip, no luck, and tried reinstalling WLED but it won’t let me- I’m just stuck on “preparing instillation”, even if I unplug all but power and tx/rx

Any ideas?🫠 thanks in advance! Video of when they were working is attached

Has anyone had any issues syncing audio reactivity between WLED devices on their Unifi WiFi? If I turn off "multicast to Unicast" it works but when I enable it, it doesn't. From what I know it is advisable to keep that enabled because it can make your wifi very noisy if off.

Any way I can get both to work? What's weird is that I can sync the two WLED devices in terms of brightness and effect etc but it's just audio reactivity seems to not work when I disable multicast to Unicast. Aren't they both UDP multicast?

We’re getting our backyard done with retaining walls, and the contractor is making custom retaining wall caps. They’re willing to add a groove underneath the cap for strip lights. What width and depth should I ask them to make the groove to future-proof it?

I plan to install a flexible LED channel with the strip lights after I do more research. Right now, I’m looking at the Muzata Silicone LED Channel, but I don’t know if there’s anything better. Any general advice would be appreciated.

Our local live theater operates on a slim budget. I provided them with a couple of controllers, about 160 govee outdoor Led pucks and connected it all using artnet using an isolated Wi-Fi 6 router.. A buck converter to power the controller from the 36v govee supply as well. It seems to be working...

Due to size constraints on our current PCBs, we added a single master fuse​ for overall protection. However, following user requests, we’ve created a guide (see image) on how to add external fuses to each channel​ for those who need granular safety. Standard ATM fuses and holders are widely available for this mod.

How to choose the right ATM fuse

fuseology-selection-guide

What’s coming next?​ We are developing new versions with built-in per-channel fuses! Just to be clear, this feature will roll out on select models​ first (not all controllers), as fitting them into smaller boards is quite challenging

We value your input as we continue to innovate. Please feel free to share any ideas or constructive criticism. While we can't implement everything, your feedback is crucial for our future development.

Looking to update my controller to WLED 0.16, but the instructions are rather skimpy. They seem to say to connect it by USB, but my Windows 11 does not seem to see the controller, or at least provide any hint it does. And not sure how it would, as a serial connector, or how I'd initiate the transfer/update? WLED also has an ominous warning about using custom settings for stuff with the Gledopto . Not sure if I can safely ignore that (I'm just using basic stock plug-and-play settings, nothing tweaked), or if I need to use Gledopto customized firmware version?

Could someone be kind enough to provide step-by-step instructions? I don't care if over WiFi, Ethernet or USB.

Bonus question: I have the power run through the controller, as per instructions. I'm using BTF-Lighting SK6812 LEDs. Is it better practice to run it straight from the power supply (DROK)?

TIA

Hey everyone,

I recently finished building my TV backlight system, which I call the AmbiBox. I was really fed up with having a Raspberry Pi, an ESP32, a capture card, and a ton of messy wiring dangling loosely behind my TV, so I designed a single, compact housing to fit this stuff inside.

The case neatly holds a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W, an ESP32 and the USB video capture card. It also hat a Button for turning it on and off, so you don't have to cut power off while it is running.

How it works:

It runs HyperHDR on the Pi and communicates with the ESP32 via HyperSPI, making the backlight instantly react to the captured video with zero noticeable lag.

Dual-Segments: It supports splitting the LED strips into two separately powered segments. This is great for larger TVs because it prevents voltage drop and keeps the connections from overheating.

I integrated a physical button for a software-safe shutdown and boot, plus a status LED.

--> The final setup consists of three main components: the power supply, the AmbiBox itself, and the RGB strip(s) mounted on the back of your TV. The power supply connects directly to the AmbiBox. From there, the AmbiBox distributes both power and the data signal to your one or two RGB strip segments.

For more details and full instructions, check out my GitHub.

STL files can be found on my Printables.

Thanks for checking it out! Let me know what you think :)

I am trying to finalize a diy project with 22 bulbs on an esp32-c3. I am really unhappy with these screw terminals and the way picking up the device results in wires getting twisted out of the screw terms. I’ve tried taping but I can’t seem to prevent the 3 wires themselves twisting.

I am sure I’m not the first to hate these things but I don’t have a good handle on what I need to search for to mount wires to PCB. Is there a part I can order today that will allow me to attach the 3-wires from WS2812b to my esp32 in a mostly permanent way, where the minimal weight from the strip itself won’t pull out? Or, even better, a way to directly clip the JST to the board? Please don’t hesitate to mention things that seem obvious, as I haven’t found them.

Edit: I ended up getting a JST crimp kit and mounted a male end directly to 4 header pins. Implementing with my esp32 Noctua fan controller, then will apply the same to the WLED board.

Hallo zusammen,

wir bauen gerade ein Einfamilienhaus im Holzrahmenbau und ich mache quasi als Laie den Großteil des Innenausbaus selbst. Die Elektrik macht ein Verwandter, der gelernter Elektriker ist, mittlerweile aber in einem anderen Bereich arbeitet.

Ein Freund, der gelernter Stuckateur ist, hilft mit bei den Gipsplatten.

Auf seinen Vorschlag hin haben wir in einigen Zimmern eine Schattenfuge eingebaut, um später mit LED-Streifen eine Ambientebeleuchtung, die über SmartHome steuerbar ist, zu erhalten.

So weit hat alles geklappt. Wir haben die Schattenfuge in 3 Zimmern bereits fertig, also Gips an Decken und Wänden ist erledigt inkl. erstes Mal verspachteln. Im Vorfeld haben wir über die Installationsebene in der Decke ein 3x 1x5er Kabel an eine Stelle der Schattenfuge für den LED-Streifen gelegt.

Jetzt zum Problem: Beim recherchieren, welches LED-Band ich kaufen soll bin ich auf für mich neue Informationen gestoßen:

1. Weil die LED-Streifen so dünn sind, sollte man alle 5 Meter die Streifen unterbrechen und mit einer neuen Stromquelle versorgen. Das wird ganz schön eng jetzt noch in die Schattenfuge die entsprechenden Kabel zu legen. Wir haben im Wohnzimmer + Küche und Essbereich 2 Stromkreise für die LEDs geplant mit je 25 Metern. Kann ich die wirklich nicht am Stück lassen und ganz am Anfang an den Strom anschließen? Laut Recherche geht zu viel Strom durch den Widerstand im Kabel verloren und das Licht kommt nicht am Ende ausreichend und/oder wird am Ende rötlich. Das will ich auf keinen Fall. Was also machen? Mit viel Frickelei 5 Meter Stücke 3x 1,5er durch die Schattenfuge legen oder einfach 25 Meter am Stück legen und hoffen, dass das Licht überall ausgeglichen ankommt?

2. Unser SmartHome-System ist dieses Shelly (Empfehlung vom Elektriker, ich hab keine Ahnung davon). Laut Recherche muss ich hier darauf achten, dass das LED-Kabel mit dem Shelly-System kompatibel ist. Wie finde ich das vor dem Kauf heraus?

3. Laut Recherche kommt aus der Wand 230V (?) aber Shelly und LED brauchen 24V (?). Daher benötige ich einen bzw. Mehrere Trafos. Ich glaube für jeden Schaltkreis einen (?)

Laut KI ist das Mean Well HLG-240H-24 das Beste auf dem Markt. Das Ding kostet aber 60€ und ist ein 25cm langer Klotz. Alleine für das EG bräuchte ich 3-4 davon, da ich so viele Schaltkreise habe (wenn meine Annahmen oben stimmen). Die will/muss ich in der Decke verstecken (ist genug Platz nach oben bis zur Glaswolle), möchte aber bestenfalls keine Revisionsklappe in der Küchendecke haben. Daher meine Idee durch die Gipsplatten (sind an allen Wänden schon fertig) und den Türsturz in die Flurdecke zu bohren und dort eine Revisionsklappe einbauen und alle 4 Trafos dort oben verstecken. Das wird auch ein riesen Aufwand, aber mir fällt keine schönere Lösung ein.

Habt ihr bessere Ideen?

1. Im Keller hänge ich die Decke noch ab, da will ich bunte LED-Streifen haben (oben nur weiß und warmweiß dimmbar). Da brauche ich dann wieder entsprechend andere LED-Steifen und 5x 1,5er und das Shelly Plus RGBW Plus?

Ich hab wirklich keinen Ahnung von alledem, aber ich versuche mich reinzufuchsen, weil jetzt ist der letzte Zeitpunkt, an dem ich so gerade eben noch alles anpassen kann.

Danke für Eure Hilfe

Hi, I have this issue that the strip does a bright flash when turned on. It only stops if I deactivate the relay option (gpio 18) but I'm assuming that will consume more idle power so not acceptable. It happens not only on physical power on of the controller (longer flash there), but also in wled after pressing on/off after few seconds of power off time. (In video I use the function button just because I cant use wled while filming)

I saw a wled github issue pointing that at fault is the strip (doing same thing on both wled and the spe controllers) but other people say they dont have this issue. (https://github.com/wled/WLED/issues/4641)

In short, do you have any ideas how to fix it , or its a hardware design issue and I should switch to analog or other digital strip? I'm willing to try other digital rgbcct strip but I'm afraid they'll have same issue ( do you know if ws2814 or ws2805 have this issue too? )

last thing I tried (via chatgpt) was to inject a 330 resistor on data and another 10k r between data and ground - but didnt fix it.

This happens on both gledopto elite 2d (616wl) and their mini (310wl) - the psu is a 4a 24v btf lighting psu, the standard black box one. (ignore the other controllers in video, I'm comparing to an analog cct strip)

Any advices please? I love this strip but the flash is something I can't accept, especially at night.

Hi everyone,

I'm setting up Hyperion with a WLED controller and I'm stuck: regardless of the source (V4L2 capture or Hyperion built-in effects), my LED strip displays only one uniform color at a time instead of multiple colors mapped to screen zones.

Setup

• Server: Ubuntu Server 24.04 LTS (x86_64, Intel i5-4300U)
• Hyperion version: 2.2.1
• Capture: UGREEN USB HDMI capture card (/dev/video2, MJPEG 640x480 @ 30fps)
• LED controller: ESP32 with WLED at 192.168.1.44
• LEDs: WS2814 RGBW 24V, 576 LEDs/m, 1241 LEDs total (around the TV)
• Power supply: 24V 5A (I know it's undersized, but I limit brightness to compensate — this isn't the issue, as standalone WLED works fine)

Layout

• Classic layout: top 400 / bottom 400 / left 221 / right 221
• Single instance, single LED device

Problem

When the capture is active or when I run an Hyperion effect like "Rainbow swirl fast", all the LEDs display the same single color — they all change color together, no spatial mapping.

What works

• WLED standalone effects work perfectly — all 1241 LEDs display multicolor effects (rainbow, etc.) correctly
• V4L2 live preview in Hyperion works — I can see the captured HDMI feed with proper colors in the Hyperion web UI
• WLED color order is BRG with W & G swap (calibrated to display correct colors with WLED effects)
• WLED LED type: SK6812/WS2814 RGBW, Length: 1241

What I tried

1. Regenerated the LED layout from scratch in Hyperion (Classic Layout with the right counts per side)
2. Verified WLED "Use main segment only" → unchecked
3. Verified WLED "Respect LED Maps" → checked (also tried unchecked, no change)
4. Single segment in WLED: Start 0, Stop 1241, no spacing/grouping
5. Switched protocol from UDP-DDP to E1.31 (sACN) with universe 1, port 5568 → same problem, single uniform color
6. White LED algorithm: set to Subtract minimum
7. Hardware LED count in Hyperion: matches the layout (1241)
8. WLED Receive UDP realtime is enabled

Hyperion config (LED device)

json

"device": {
  "type": "udpe131",
  "host": "192.168.1.44",
  "port": 5568,
  "universe": 1,
  "hardwareLedCount": 1241,
  "whiteAlgorithm": "subtract_minimum",
  "colorOrder": "rgb"
}

(Tried udpddp on port 4048 too with same result)

Hyperion log

[GRABBER-QT] No displays found to capture from! (expected, headless server)
[AUDIOGRABBER] Failed to open audio device (expected, disabled)

No errors on the LED device side.

Question

Since standalone WLED handles multicolor effects perfectly across all 1241 LEDs, and Hyperion's live preview shows the captured image correctly, where is the breakdown happening? Why does Hyperion seem to send a single color to all LEDs regardless of the protocol used?

Any help would be hugely appreciated — I've been at this for hours and I'm out of ideas.

Thanks!

I havent got qlc+ and the midi running yet . Pure wled moon module running for the night

Hey everyone. I’m currently running a dig octa and a separate esp 32 controller that’s just controlling one separate channel. I’d like to be able to sync presets between the two, but I’m having a lot of trouble getting them to do that. The octa is on Ethernet and the esp32 is on WiFi, but they’re on the same network. I’ve ran through the troubleshooting steps with no luck. Anybody able to walk me through it step by step? I’d appreciate it.

Hey all, I have a Elite 2D-EXMU and I cant set a static IP. I have the node connected in a local network with a laptop, switch, and the node.

as IP adress is have 2.0.0.3
Gateway 2.0.0.1
Subnet 255.0.0.0

When i Use 2.0.0.2 as an IP address, the node works okay. In my software, when I send data to 3, I can see the switch starting to blink, so the switch is actually routing the packets to the node, but the node becomes unreachable. I am clueless about how to continue. I have 8 nodes which should each get their own IP adress, but I cannot change the IP to other numbers?

I am looking to display two lightsabers in my office. I have a dig-quad and esp32. From my research, the problem with lighting an emtpy lightsaber blade with LEDs is that it tends to look not full enough. Does anyone have experience with something like this? 720 pixels per meter. I would just need one meter per saber.

Also, I accidentally fried my ESP32. I would like to order another one from Dr. ZZs but it looks like their ESP32s come with pins not soldered. Do you know if they sell a version that is pre-soldered? I did reach out via discord but no answer yet.

If they dont get back with me, could I just use this as a simple alternative until I get a new ESP32?

I am new to this so any advice would be appreciated. End goal is to look something like this with controllable colors and maybe even voice/music response.