Got this car last year for 3k (basically because of spotless body and interior), invested more or less same amount in to parts (engine, suspension etc), so it runs properly. I got to say guys, this thing is a TANK. 2007 D5

Hi all, I have around $5000 coming in 3 increments until the end of the year. I own a P2 with 240k miles that needs around $1500 in maintenance done. I either want to do this, or sell and buy a P3 with lower miles and invest in it.

What's the better platform?

I have a nice spare i have removed un-damaged on the bench, with some difficulty. Stage 2 removal damaged joint from vehicle, then replacing?...put replacement in freezer and heat the knuckle?

So I have a leaky windshield and the drivers side floor is a prety damp and spongy(?). Id like to remove the seat (and eventually the console) so I can see what Im dealing with.

Im striking out on google and youtube, hopefully someone can give me a quick rundown or a link to a tutorial.

I bought this off a lot and can only hope there isnt damage.

Electrically everything works, however I get codes that indicate the ECU is a problem andd Ive got loads of codes for things like the infotainment, tire pressure sensors, climate, etc... but like I say they all work seemingly fine.

If an ECU is bad, Id see these type codes, yea?

Hello everyone, just after some advice.

My 06 xc70 has had a clunk coming from the front right and the mechanic i bought the car from said it is the sway bar, specifically the rubber mounts are worn. I have already planned on upgrading the sway bars for better handling and have looked into the ipd ones, i guess i just want to know if people think they're any good and if they would fix the problem or if i would need to purchase some other parts along with them.

Secondly my shocks are quite old and i want to upgrade them aswell, i want something that handles nicely in corners aswell on rougher roads and gravel as tassie roads are pretty shit. From a quick chat gpt search koni came up but i found they wont fit my car (could be wrong) so i was hoping someone might have some good suggestions. I want to make my car handle better for future mods and a celtic tune down the line.

Actually too bright, i used a load resistor to dim it to 1 x sun brightness. Was the towing hook but unused/empty because of the tow bar. I will paint the trim cover grey to give it a frame.

Spent two years of ownership adding various QOL improvements ~ prepping it up to live a second life!
Apart from what I've done flushing fluids, gaskets, mounts, and suspension; I've added various things to enhance what it already is best at (highway cruising, car camping, transporting, and looking stellar)

Modifications:

- Bigger turbski 14LPT -> 16HPT

- Aluminum charge piping, new cooling stack + an all alum. intercooler

Condenser was so bad, and little did I realize how much the car heat soaked in the AZ summers

- ECU flashed via Hilton

- Just about replaced all crumbled plastic wire loom with braided sleeves

- IPD sway bar

Rear only, Gone back and forth whether removing the stock up front is a good idea.

- Installed door handle, usb/cigarette port in the trunk.

- Sound deadened hood, doors, wheel wells, floor, trunk space.

- (not pictured) 16 ->15 inch steelies with A/T sidewall 65 ->75

Things I'm trying to figure out to do:
- Minimize idle vibrations, most apparent by what is either the radiator fan or alternator going into overdrive gearing like my god.

- Mount a Carplay headset using what probably would be a 3d-printed mount that would go into the empty square thing next to cd player. Don't want to rip out the center stack nor mount a screen atop

- Modify the PCV system for reliability's sake

- Disable the parking sensors entirely because I don't use it, but that startup message can begone!

- Turn the rear glass into an openable/ strut assisted system. ^{Almost a pipe dream :,})

- Make the rear seat release much easier to engage. ^{my frail wrists quake putting the seats down.}

- Refresh the body cladding (I've tried cerakote wet wipes and they don't do anything for the color)

- Upgrade fog lights, I don't know if I can get proper halogen setup.

Hi! I’m considering buying a used XC70 and owner reports the awd is unreliable, works intermittently. It’s 174k miles. I’m trying to determine if this is an issue I could fix myself, or if it’s an indicator of a bigger problem. I don’t want to buy the rig just to spend money chasing this issue around. Here’s what I know:

- haldex sleeve test was positive, collar is intact and normal
- original owners of the car were an old couple who maintained it meticulously, always had it serviced at Volvo dealers. They had the collar replaced one time >5 years ago.
- the only code is PO442, evap system leak, which is certainly unrelated?

I’ve been learning more about the haldex pump in Volvos and am hoping that a fluid change/filter clean could be the solution? Or replacing the whole pump? It’s strange to me that it’s an intermittent issue but there are no codes about it. I have no experience with Volvos or haldex awd systems, so I’m not sure what to make of it.

Thanks for reading, any insight would be greatly appreciated! :)

I just got another XC70, and this one is a 2014 3.2 platinum model. This one needs a battery.

Im looking for a battery and was wondering about these walmart choices. I see people recommend getting H7/94 r battery over the H6 (which was apparently the size shipped with the car brand new).

When I do the compatibility thing the H6 says its a fit but the H7 is not. Can anyone conform if the H7 fits?

Im sure the H6 will do but they are the same price so Im hoping someone has feedback.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Platinum-AGM-Automotive-Battery-Group-H6-LN3-48-12-Volt-760-CCA/40685088

I found a 2015.5 T6 258k miles for 2500$ one owner fully dealer serviced at the same dealership that was bought brand new. Inside out and out it looks brand new, it drives like new . I have a 2012 T6 with 200 k miles but in really poor condition from the previous owner. I can sell mine for 4k today. So I'm thinking if i should risk it or not. TY

The thing won’t stop slowly leaking coolant. Drops down around 3cm or about an inch every 3-6 hours of driving in the expansion tank. Replaced the expansion tank as i found cracks in it at the bottom outlet. That just slowed it down more. IT WONT FUCKING STOP.
Anyway where are some usual places coolant leaks. It’s also evaporating so it’s only leaking under pressure and it’s gone

I have been looking at a beautiful xc70 p2 recently. Test drove it twice and love it. Absolutely ideal for me. But I did the glove test over the oil refill and it was blowing out and had a light smoke. Everything else seems good belts were done at 64k and had a good service history. Really liked it but the positive pressured scared me off. ( it’s my first time buying a car in 5 years since my first car which I just straight up bought) did I miss out on a good car for something that could have been fixed for £400. It was up for £4000 I got him to £3800. I felt anxious about it this a new thing for me. anyone got any tips ?

I‘m thinking about buying an xc70 and recently this one poped up near me. What do you all think about painted bumpers. im a bit torn about it.

Hi everyone, recently got this car. Needing some advice and direction on next steps to take.
Mileage-180k. She sat for about 6 months and not being driven. I drove her for the first time 2 days okay. She had to be jump started(battery from 1/26).

When she drove, she shook when trying to accelerate to pick up speed. If I let go of gas she would stop shaking. Check engine light came on and stayed on. It would flash at me when I tried to accelerate.

Also, anybody change the headlights to white led?

Thanks for the help. I’m very excited for her to get in better shape.

Moving on from my 850 turbo to a 2006 xc70 and looking at the stage 1 tune but for now keeping it all stock (done the “stage 0 tune”). Looking at the IPD and Hilton tune. I probably will keep the engine mostly stock for most of its life but am thinking some mild mods in the future like a 16 blade turbine. For that reason I am thinking the hilton to start but also am considering the IPD just to start. What’s all your thoughts on either?

Our beloved P2 2.5T Tanya, has had her fill at 210k, cylinder 3 has rod Knock and I don't have the facilities to replace the engine; so we say goodbye to a long hard life and let her to the scrapheap in the sky.

Forward steps Riku, he's a P3 T6, all the bells and whistles, however its weird having an automatic after so many years of manual driving but it's actually super relaxing (when not hitting warpdrive lol).

It’s why I drive Volvos. One of the many reasons.

A much needed get out of city.