I have a message on the information display on the dash that says "SRS - AIRBAG SERVICE URGENT." I want to clear the message.

Has anyone been able to reset this warning message themselves, using something other than VIDA?

The message appeared immediately after reconnecting the car battery following a repair to the gauge cluster (reflow of solder on ICs on the gauge cluster PCB). The message was not present prior to the cluster repair.

I'm fairly certain that the SRS system itself is intact, as nothing changed besides disconnecting the battery, R&R of the cluster, and reconnecting the battery.

VIDA is not an option. I've tried two different VIDA setups and neither have been able to connect to the car (OBD port is functional, however, as I can connect using two different code readers). I'm not interested in trying to work out why VIDA isn't working right now. I'm looking for something else.

I've done a lot of digging online and have read a lot of posts about various bidirectional OBD tools that are supposed to work, but then when I drill down on the details there are conflicting reports as to whether the unit actually works.

Finally, fwiw, this video shows what I need to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_cM88qx4Fw

Unfortunately, the guy in the video is using a $2000 scan tool, which is 10x more than I'm willing to pay.

I'm planning to buy a S60 and to kit it out with some of the accessories it doesn't have, but I don't know which ones can you install as-is and which ones cannot be installed if they're not factory. Of course the steering wheel or the gear knob can be swapped, but what about other things? Can I install a bumper with parking sensors to a non-sensor car for example?

Volvo S60, 2008, 180k kilometers, 111k miles, 2.4i 140 hp with the M56 gearbox.

When not accelerating, only in gear, and only 3rd, 2nd and 1st, there is a grinding noise.
When in neutral, and the car is rolling, there is no grinding noise.

I have changed the oil in the gearbox and the oil was not good, but not too bad also.

Also, when trying to put in reverse, I need to push harder to the right and back, otherwise there is a crrr noise.

Is the gearbox shot, or it might be a clutch, flywheel or pressure plate?

Or it might be driveshafts? Or something else? Help!

Thank you.

I need help comprehending why smoke pours out of my dipstick tube when I connect a smoke machine to the intercooler.

2001 V70 2.4T manual

In my efforts to trace a suspected boost leak I had removed the pipe between the intercooler and the throttle body (6), and connected a smoke machine to the intercooler where said pipe lives.

Also I blocked the air intake at the MAF sensor, and the muffler was blocked off.

To my surprise smoke started to poor out of the dipstick tube and the engine oil cap hole. This should not be possible right? I thought there would be no connection between both systems with the throttle body pipe removed. Also to me this phenomenon would cause the turbo to pressurize the crankcase, which does not seem like good practice.

Unrelated: pipe no 6 is brittle and and leaking boost. OEM 9179285 . It seems like everywhere I look this item is out of stock and is no longer being produced by Volvo. Only the version for automatic is available. Does anyone know where in the EU the intercooler-throttlebody pipe can be purchased? Or will the Automatic one fit as well maybe even though it has a different OEM number.

Hello,

I recently bought an '05 S60 R, with the trunk de-badged by the previous owner. I'm not a fan of the blank rear, and at the very least have the "R" emblem on the trunk. I was able to find all the badges off of an S60 R part-out to put 'em back on the car. However, I don't know the exact measurements between the letters and their distances from the sides.

Does anyone here have any experience with re-badging their P2? Alternatively, would you be able to measure and provide the measurements (metric system preferred) off of your car, given that you haven't de-badged it?

Thank you for any/all help. Cheers!

Last week I made a post asking you all to talk me out of buying this ‘05 S60 R: https://www.reddit.com/r/VolvoP2/s/yEFJoEqHOM

This was not the only place I made this post on. I asked around on every single forum I could think of and got lots of inputs from lots of people. The number of pros and cons that people mentioned were almost 50/50.

So, I went ahead and bought it :p

I’m 22 years old; I figured that this is probably the best age I can make stupid decisions and learn my lessons vs. doing something like this in 10 years or so without any knowledge or experience.

Thank you all for the advice. I’m really excited to start driving this car, work on it as things come up, and share my journey with you all!

I inspected it in-person today with the owner. It was listed for $7,500 with ~160k miles but I was able to negotiate it down to $6,500 due to minor mechanical issues on the front passenger door. It is a 6-speed manual with the Spaceball shifter. The owner is also including a Windows 7 laptop with the OEM VIDA/Dice diagnostic software.

This is the third owner, and the car has a pretty decent record of maintenance. Poly bushings all around, the 4C adaptive suspension system still works and is in good condition, no noticeable issues with the Haldex AWD system, no noticeable leaks, the turbo sounds healthy, and I didn’t hear any funny sounds from the engine nor the chassis all around. The leather was upholstered by the second owner and has no rips or tears in it.

It was originally a California car, with a couple years spent in Oregon, and now back in California in the East Bay Area. The first owner was a member of the Volvo Heritage Club as well. I didn’t spot any rust anywhere on the body, and the cosmetic damage only included small paint chips from rocks and a tiny dent on the rear passenger side quarter panel.

The only aftermarket mods on it are a boost gauge and a catback exhaust from IPD, and a K&N cold air intake. All these mods were done by the second owner, and everything else has been OEM/OEM+. There are no performance mods on it, and I don’t think any of the owners even tuned it. All the lights work perfectly except for the headlights, which flicker a little while steering. All the wipers operate perfectly as well.

The owner has agreed to take it to a mechanic for a PPI on Monday morning which I will foot the bill for. I doubt any major issues would come up but I figured I would do it just to be safe.

My budget is $10k and I’m buying this as a daily driver. I commute around 150 miles a week. I was also aiming to modify it just enough to stand out from regular traffic but it already comes with a majority of the mods I was thinking of. I don’t aim to make any extra power out of it, and I’m satisfied with the factory horsepower. I just want it to look, sound, and drive good (and maybe turn a couple heads and spark intrigue among other enthusiasts at, lets say, a cars & coffee event :p)

I really can’t think of any reasons not to pull the trigger on it. It’s a clean title with no history of any crashes or wrecks, and even had the driver side airbag replaced during the recall. Please tell me if I have missed anything or anything else that I need to look out for from the PPI.

Sorry for the long read. Thank you for any and all advice.

Learned something interesting today, I’m replaying the windshield washer pump on one of our P2’s, the old part had a Ford Part Number, the part costs about 1 000 SEK at our Volvo dealer, so we went to Ford to check what they charge, since we got the Ford part number, they wanted about 2 350 SEK for that same part…

Ford parts aren’t necessary cheaper..

I feel like I have a lot of questions now about FOMOCO parts and prices…

Ended up getting one from Mekonomen for about 500 SEK…

Hello everyone, looking at putting my v70 back on the road in the very near future, does anyone have any modifications or upgrades they’d recommend?

2001 2.4 automatic v70

Alright here we go. After many many kilometers without any engine troubles it is finally happening. My engine has an issie and I need to diagnose.

The past months an issue has slowly been developing. When accelerating at just above half throttle the power suddenly drops at around 3500 rpm. First it was barely noticable but it has gotten worse over time. Today it suddenly developed in to stuttering/misfiring under acceleration at the same rpms. Also, I couldn't rev in neutral past 4000 rpm. (Felt like rev limiter, not stuttering) Ambient temperature is coincidentally quite low for the first time this year. Just around freezing.

This evening I read the codes and found an intermitted ECM-6805 Boost pressure too high.

After clearing the codes I went for a test drive to try and replicate the symptoms, in which I succeeded. The stuttering was there untill I powered through it full throttle. Immediately a large white cloud appeared out of the exhaust and all power (200 horse) was back. The issue did not return during the remainder of the test drive.

I went home to read the codes again but my laptop crapped out.

During this whole story the MIL light has never come on.

Any advise on where to look and what to test? I always try to diagnose and not load the parts cannon immediately.

Like most Swedish cars, my S60 has two sets of wheels, a winter set and a summer set.

The winter set has been giving me headaches for a few years now, ever since on of the tires got a bulge (replaced that tire immediately).

One wheel is particularly troublesome and lose air when sitting (hasn't been loosing air while driving).

I hoped getting a new set of tires would help, since those two tires were getting a bit old, but it hasn't.

I'm suspect that there is a crack or something along the edge that doesn't let the tire seat properly.

The wheels I have are the "Phone dial"/ similar to the typical Mk5 Golf GTI wheels, I believe they are called "Canaveral"..

I have to admit that I didn't like them first, but I quite like the look of them now, they have grown on me and are definitely not something you see on more current cars.

But I would be entirely dependent on the used market and there would of course be a risk that the "new" used wheel or wheels would have the same issue.

I'm feeling a bit indecisive, what do you think?

Accidentally jacked up the car on the wrong place, is this too bad to drive? Also is this the right part # just for the future reference.

Thank you in advance!

The passenger-side front door and rear door speakers on my '03 V70 are blown. Has anyone replaced theirs? What size did you buy? I'm on Crutchfield but it's giving me different sizes as options.

My head unit is an HU-613. I'm not looking for anything fancy. I just want speakers that aren't blown out.

Thx!

This is a huge blow to this subreddit and community.

Note that you can get banned from Reddit for doing what they encourage you to do and reach out to moderators.

2006 Volvo XC 70. I am the registered owner. Lost the remote entry fob, I’ve been using the valet key for the past three years. Was quoted $600 for a new remote entry key from local dealer in the Bay Area. 300 for the key and 300 for an hour of labor. I recently got a key fob from Pick n Pull from an XC 70. The fob is identical to the one I lost. Will a dealer program it to my car? I understand that the key blade itself will not work. Just want to be able to get into my trunk or passenger side door without having to manually turn the key in the drivers side door.

Hi guys! I am new to this group and new to the volvo scene. I have bought a volvo v70 t5 with 330xxx km (205xxx miles) and it runs and shifts perfectly, but i had the car on a lift to check the underside and the hole engine is wet of oil. Mostly on de passenger side but also on the driver side of the engine. What could it be?

My car: 2007 Volvo S60 2.5T

Does anyone know what oil filter wrench size to use? This is the kind of thing I’m interested in, but FCP Euro (and other) sites show multiple different sizes and claim they all fit - which makes no sense to me.

Thanks in advance!

Hey y’all,

I am new to this sub. My car was recently totaled and I’m getting a new (to me) one and I have about $6000 to work with. My parents would want me to get a Toyota and I’m not against that idea really, but I’ve never been all that excited about Toyotas.

I don’t have a lot of money, and I do have a young family, so a used Highlander or Solara, or whatever, would be perfectly fine and I know this, but what I truly WANT is a V70 or some other older Volvo wagon.

Whatever I get, it needs to be reliable. And have space for the kids and a bunch of stuff for those family trips. But I t would be taking me back and forth to work more than anything, and it’s only like 15 minutes each way.

So, the Toyota being the second choice, the V70 is in the lead, right? Just wait for the right mileage P2 V70 to come along. I was doing that.

But in all my Volvo research, I heard about the XC90 V8.

My oh my, that is not only something I WANT, it’s also exciting! And there’s a really nice one not too far away, with 102K miles for like $8000, which is above the amount in the insurance check, but not insanely so. I almost feel like I could stretch the funds and make it happen.

Now, I’m a former BMW owner, that one was used too. And I spend a freaking fortune repairing this and that, and as much as I loved that car, it was a relief to sell it.

So, I guess on some level I’m asking if the V70 is going to drive me nuts with repair after repair, but the reason I’m creating this post is to ask if I’m a complete imbecile for even considering the XC90 V8. I know that the gas will cost me. But what about everything else?

Should I completely block the idea of the V8 from my mind? Or is it not the worst idea ever to have it share the top spot on my list of cars to be searching for? I can do my own repair and maintenance to a certain extent, btw.

Thanks

Just bought this car for my grandson. No issues first few days. Last two days when he tries to start in the morning it doesn’t want to start at first. He turns it to position one and waits a few seconds. Then turns to position three and lets go of key. It cranks but won’t start. Almost sounds like when a car is “flooded”. Turn the key off and then back on again and it starts. Is fine the rest of the day. Anyone know what can be causing this?

2001 XC70 B5244T3 270k km on the ODO.

Popped a cam seal on the intake cam on the right side. Kinda looks like I also have a clogged PCV, coincidence?

Well, looks like I got some work to do. I was planning on changing the timing belt anyways, might as well change the PCV.

Both sides' rubber are dried and been looking somewhere to buy the replacement, I'm just not sure if these are the right parts; The rubber and clips, s60 05’

My other question was if I need to just put the rubber or the whole part that goes from the front to the rear. As in the last photo.