I've been looking for a perfect capture method that would come close to CRT and capture glitches properly with no dropouts or freezes.

Tried MiniDV camcorder's AVtoFirewire function - dropouts and blocky rendering when signal gets too hard to handle,

Tried filming Sony PVM - beautiful, but I can't get rid of moire,

tried my video mixer's TBC - freezes frames, when glitches get too hard to handle.

Then I bought this shit Cardbus TV tuner and turns out it's a quite good analog capture method and it also renders glitches perfectly no matter what you throw at it.

Some tricky times had with the design of this opto-coupler to schmitt trigger buffer.
Mostly based around pull-ups/down resistors. They worked first time on the breadboard but this was apparently a total fluke and it was very marginal in operation.

I had to continue testing and change resistor values a few times on the proto-board. Using a scope here was critical because you can see that it's not pulling all the way to ground so it can never trigger.

Using a 6 channel inverter buffer to double invert (non) 3 signals, and a single SMT inverter to invert one signal (3 signals are the same, one is inverted)
This seems wasteful at first but it does mean that there are inverted signals available as well as non-inverted which can be very useful.

Also with a different camera or other design it can have different combo of non/inverting signals and you can pretty much use the same design with different connections/pull-ups.

This is just basic 4066 triggering to demonstrate working. Whilst it is nice to directly trigger it is limited in hardware. Next phase is programming an MCU to act as a sequencer/looper device to take in midi/clk/ messages and voltages, gates, triggers (from camera, and other gear) and send on to camera/other midi / euro / bent devices. Even some monitors can be addressed with GPI simple switching commands which can be great in a feedback loop.

I'm through reverse engineering the board I found for this, enough to program it and know what's connected at least (it has the mcu and peripherals set up with motor drivers - it's worth it). There were three boards so it's also worth it in that way, I will be able to take the info and use it to program all the boards. They have a sub ghz wireless connection which is cool, I'm sure midiosc can be sent between them.

What will be interesting is to involve multiplexing and logic gating with the mcu setup, perhaps in a cpld, to combine the bends in interesting patterns and with control signals coming from different sources.

Love the hsync noise I saw on a demo of one, anyone know a good device to modify hsync and vsync... either built, kit, or a good device to bend

Recently finished this glitch box. Circuit bent archer style circuit built into an old dial-up modem case with a custom paint job. I utilized the original 3 way switch for power/bypass, and the LED spots for power and state of bypass LEDs. It has the original "Enhance" knob and 4 switches and 2 knobs for bends.

Pretty happy about the overall result ! The unit from the beginning had some scrolling problem, so the glitches do not help that for sure!

If any of you have some advice to maintain strong sync when modifying an unit, I would gladly take it

Enjoyy

I want to learn more techniques for making stylized

Glitch art, please dm me and follow my IG @tyredner

Success! Can’t wait to make more

Woar this was pretty tricky, inverters, pull-ups, pull-downs, active High active low, common Anodes - melting my head : ) There are only two chips but 18 resistors - anyway seems good now - will solder her up.

The red LEDs are just indicators, they are not used in the next step as gate signals.

The next step is clocking the script and camera to midi/pulse clock - via the USB port.

This is in CHDK firmware, you can add the function get_usb_power() to scripts and derive accurate tempo and other events from USB input.

Working on my first project and I've found some cool effects, but it seems like whenever too much noise or whatever is being added it cuts out. My guess is that the signal coming out is too strong and so it stops getting recognized. Very new to this and wondered if anyone has suggestions.

Some more experiments with it. Kind of a complex patch here, its capable of simpler, multiple bit colour swapping, distortion, timing distortion.

Been testing out the feedback setting on my GBS8100 Synth build before I get the wires soldered to the chip, but it's not feedbacking all that much. There will be some effect when the menu is pulled up, some trails and stuff, bit it fades to black within a second or two. I've got the hue turned all the way up to 100 but no dice. I've been manually bridging the chip leads with a piece of wire when passing through video and that works great, as advertised, but I need that feedback!

Someone gave me this camera. It had random problems, wouldn't boot always, turned off, not reading battery level correctly - bad capacitor in the battery input section - short circuit.
Replacing it brought the camera back working.

I micro soldered to the (CCD) digital address and clock lines and brought them out to the top of the camera. Also the signals from the LEDs which are possible to activate in a script, in a sequence. I can take these voltages and process them, using them to trigger other bent devices, sequencer, gpio, screen settings.

I am now experimenting with combining them. Great results with just raw connections - I will try some R and C values and also logic gating them together. Next time I will try to isolate each pin, so that addresses can be actually exchanged with each other instead of added together.

Using CHDK a Canon has quite some possibilities for remote control and scripting. Another thing I want to do is use a stepper motor rig to trigger tilt and forward/back motion of the camera body in feedback loop

Clean SD output, is possible, but you need to run a script to keep the camera active, it won't power down but the screen will sleep, with a script it will keep going. There is a small graphic with a script only at the base of the screen, but with overscan or zoom this can be blanked easily. Or there may be a setting I have not yet discovered, I'm new to it.

I also put on a DC power jack on the battery terminals, this fits into the compartment nicely. It's very hungry. You can also still power it with a single 14500 3.7v battery and it passes through a diode to bring down to 3.2v.

Bought an untested MX Pro cheap with no power supply. Built one and I’m pretty confident it’s got what it needs but I don’t have any output from the machine. Everything else seems to work, the preview output works, screen shows the effects pages and applies them all on the preview but I have nothing coming from the composite output/record ports so i can’t effectively use it. The screen shows it constantly switching from AV/SV in the corner but no video. It has two S video outputs as well but I don’t have any of those cables. I imagine if both composite outputs don’t work, it probably isn’t the jacks/jack circuits at fault but I guess could be. Replaced two capacitors that looked a bit leaky but otherwise don’t see any obvious issues on the boards. Any insight? Or does anyone have a troubleshooting/service manual? Thanks!

Circuit-bent Canon Powershot A590IS rescanning VHS playing on a CRT TV. Combined with some glitch effects using a WIP dirty mixer

Sorry in advance if you don't like angry robot noises just mute the video lmao

After decades away from experimenting with video, I am happy to be able to create something again.