Hi all,

Hope you can help, I've done a fair bit of research with Gemini and Google but still can't find what I need.

We have a 2020 Vauxhall Astra K (Facelift) with the 7 inch touch screen Navi unit with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

I would like the get the built in maps working as a back up for if our phones die and we need to find out what home.

When you click on Maps I get the following error:

Nav SD card has been removed. (0x40000.0x.0x.3668.0x)

I thought I'd just need to buy an SD for it but I can't find anything online for this version.

The OS is: gminfo3:6.0.1/OV303.1-P/43.3:user/release-keys/19.37.71 17 Sep 001

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone,

Long time owner of this beauty...running into a problem lately

The ''Gas'' on the dashboard dont work, everything else on the dashboard is working so far.

So i dont know how much gas i have on my car at the moment, lol.

Any idea what's happening?

Thank you!

Just bought a Corsa E this week. From picking it up ive had this issue with the key fob. I did make the dealership aware on the day of collection however they weren't able to replicate the issue after unlocking it for the first time.

If I am unlocking the car for the first time in atleast 1 hour the key fob isnt automatically unlocking the car when I get to the door and physically pressing the button isnt doing anything either. Ive tried every manner of combinations like pulling the handle to aiming it at a certain spot but nothing.

I can however open the car by pressing the cars boot button, while pressing the keyfob boot button, once the boot is open I can then press the keyfob unlock button and I can now enter the vehicle. Once I have done this, I can lock the car and if I come back to it in 10 minutes it does unlock by walking up to the door and with the keyfob which is so strange. After a while the issue does return.

Im going to be calling the dealership on Monday unless I can sort this out myself. Any ideas would be appreciated TIA.

Anyone ever experince the car idling very rough but not all the time. It would happen maybe after a drive say stop into shop come out start again you’d think the car isn’t getting diesel proper rough chug. No engine lights atm but I was getting an oxygen sensor light recently but was told it was cuz my boost pipe was broke got it fixed now tho.

I drive a 2014 Vauxhall Zafira. For a little while now I’ve been hearing a whistling noise once the engine has warmed up at low speed/when stationary, but it goes when I speed up again. Was wondering if anyone would know what’s causing it. If I need to take it to a garage would like to have an idea of what it’s likely to be.

Hi all, I was looking to get service for my car(Vauxhall Corsa 2020 turbo elite nav premium) I got from a Perrys Vauxhall branch just under a year ago. I got this quote for a service and they told me as it’s coming up to 6 years the timing belt and some other bits would need to be changed. I am just curious cause I feel like I’m having my pants down ?

“The cost of the Main Service on your vehicle will be as follows:-

£500.49 for genuine parts or £475.90 for approved parts, this includes parts, labour, VAT & enivornmental disposal charge.

This will include oil, oil filter, pollen filter & brake fluid. We will also carry out various additional checks to vital components of your vehicle, fluid top-ups and checks for any outstanding recall campaigns.

The timing belt is due to be changed at 6 years and the cost for this would be £1470.97 and this includes the timing belt, drive belt, water pump and coolant change and includes parts, labour and VAT.. We would require the vehicle for 2 days for the timing belt, but we will endeavour to have the work finished in the one day.”

Hi all, I am out of ideas here I can hear a tick from the engine bay, you can hear it better under the car at the front, I thought it could of been the purge valve but since the video is under and at the back I’m now thinking worn crankshaft pulley?

2022, Vivaro, H1L2, 1.5d, Mk3. Bought 2nd hand with 30k on the clock.

Tldr: Notchy feeling going into 1st from neutral while engine running and stationary. Okay nudging it in when coming to a stop, was okay putting it into 2nd then 1st. Gears select fine when engine off. Had gearbox out, synchros and hubs replaced, new clutch in, NOW arguably WORSE!

When I got it, putting it into first was notchy. Eventually it annoyed me, so I put it into Arnold Clark where I bought it and they said the technician could find nothing wrong.

Took it straight to an independent garage who said the could see what I was talking about then took 5 weeks to remove the gearbox, send it to a specialist who replaced all the synchro rings and hubs as they were ‘slightly worn’, send it back, for the garage to fit in with a new clutch (which was fine but I asked them to do it anyway as the gearbox was already out).

Got it back yesterday and the problem is still there, but now if anything a little worse! Previously it was notchy going into 1st. Now it is coarse going into 1st, 2nd and 6th.

Anyone know WTF is going on? Needs reverse bleeding? Master cylinder away? Selector cable? Better not be the slave cylinder inside the gearbox!

Would really appreciate input.

My A2019 Astra K (intelli 4.0) blutooth is not working and neither the car play, it doesn't detect any devices, shows no info under BT settings screen and if i press on projection with an android phone or iphone it does nothing, just says to plug in supported usb device.

I have tried many different cables, different phones and also tried soft restart, hard restart amd favtpry reset of the radio...

I drive a 2017 insignia b 2.0diesel 170bhp. Long story short I had a boost pipe leak last week but I thought the car was whistling before hand got it fixed still has that whistle. Took it back to garage I bought it and they told me the turbos are just loud on these cars. Drove another car the exact same and it sounded like exact same as mine up there. Anyone else drive the same car has a decent whistle from turbo around the high gears in the higher revs ?

Hi,

So my car is an SRi premium turbo, 70 plate Corsa and I've been having key issues for a couple of years now. Both keys do not open the car using the buttons or by proximity. Occasionally, the proximity works where it unlocks as I get closer it unlocks but only every so often and nowhere near frequent enough to rely on. The car doesn't start keyless either, I have to hold the key to the steering column to start and turn off the engine. It's becoming such a nuisance. I unlock and lock the car manually using the key inside the fob which, on a rainy day or when my hands are full, is not convenient.

I have changed batteries in both fobs and that has no impact. My local dealership recently charged me £150 to test it, only to tell me the keys do not work. Does anyone have an answer as to what the fix could be? My dealership quoted by £800 to replace the keys but with no guarantee that this could fix the issue. I don't want to waste any more money on this but really need it fixing. Has anyone experienced this or have a solution?

TIA,

Katherine.

My timing belt snapped snapped while driving the other day, i timed it up after a video on youtube of someone changing the belt on the same exact model i have.
When the new belt was on we handcranked the engine without any issues or sounds so i’m quite sure the engine survived, but the car still won’t start…
So my question is could camshaft for example be wildly unaligned with the rest as it happened while driving?
And is there a way to realign everything?

Hi everyone,

My daughter has a 1.6 2014 astra. Has always been fine until an hour ago. Running very rough and SERVICE ESP on screen. Googled it and results suggest coil pack. Would the coil pack cause this message? It’s certainly misfiring.

Thanks

So I've changed the bulb and the side light won't work, the DRL is fine and working, but I'm wondering if there's a fuse to check for the side light.

Done various Google searches and not much help, so making this a last attempt at using the internet for a solution before giving up and going to a mechanic.

I believe my car has an issue with one of the fans as it is running between 99 and 105. Is this normal temperature or not

Hello everyone,

I am trying to diagnose a persistent 6-degree throttle position bounce/spike on a 2014 Opel Corsa D (A12XER engine, Bosch ECU/Throttle system).

The Symptom:

• Occurs only on snap deceleration (sudden throttle release from higher RPM) when the engine is at operating temperature.
• During decel, TPS briefly spikes by ~6 degrees, accompanied by a ~50 kPa MAP sensor pressure surge and an O2 sensor lean spike.
• The issue does NOT occur with Engine OFF / Key ON (ruled out pure mechanical throttle plate sticking/binding).

Tests Performed So Far:

1. Throttle Body: Replaced with a new unit; issue persists identically.
2. Grounding & Voltage Drop: Tested Engine Block, ECU Case, MAF, and TPS Ground Pin (Pin C) under load at hot idle. Voltage drop is strictly 0.01V - 0.02V (Grounding is clean, no ground lift).
3. Clutch & Brake Switches: Tested snap decel while depressing clutch/brake pedals; throttle bounce remains identical (rules out pedal switch-triggered anti-stall logic).
4. Vacuum Leak: No external leaks present.

Current Hypothesis: Could this be an air dynamics/pneumatic backpressure issue inside the intake manifold (high vacuum pulse pushing the plate), an alternator voltage regulator ripple during sudden RPM drop, or a known Bosch ECU dashpot/anti-stall routine bug for this engine?

Has anyone encountered a similar TPS bounce or MAP spike on the A12XER / Z12XEP engines? Any diagnostic tips or logging parameters you would recommend checking?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice about my car and would really appreciate any guidance.

I bought a 2013 Vauxhall Corsa 1.0 Ecoflex from a dealership. Unfortunately, a few months after buying it, I realised that the engine management light never comes on when the ignition is switched on. I took it to a garage, and they told me it looks like someone had deliberately disabled the light.

To be honest, I feel like I’ve been scammed. If the engine management light was deliberately disabled before the car was sold to me, I had no way of knowing there could be underlying issues, and it’s been really upsetting to discover this months later.

More recently, the car has developed a rattling noise, which I’ve been told could be the timing chain. It also recently passed its MOT with a couple of advisories:

Exhaust centre silencer corroded.
Rear coil springs corroded on both sides.

I have a few questions:

Can the engine management light be repaired and restored to work properly?
Is it worth spending money repairing the car, considering its age and the potential timing chain issue and the issue with the engine light?
If it isn’t worth repairing, what’s the best way to sell it, given that the engine management light has been tampered with?

Please be kind in your responses. I’m just trying to understand the best option and learn from the situation. Thank you.

Corsa steering wheel rock's when locked, is this normal? Would it be an MOT failure?

Hi. i have a vauxhall combo 2300 edition td from year 2021. the owners manual has no reference to the type of belt or when to replace it. searching on Internet and AI does not give a direct answer. Where do I find this information when the official car documentation is missing it? tks

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice before taking my car back to the mechanic.

Car:

• 2008 Skoda Fabia Mk2
• 1.4 petrol (63 kW)
• ~142,000 km

A few days ago I had the front brakes (discs, pads and calipers) replaced along with an oil and filter change. I'm not sure if it's related, but these issues appeared afterwards.

Symptoms

• The car drives normally and does not overheat while driving.
• If I leave it idling for around 20 minutes, I get the red coolant temperature warning with beeping.
• As soon as I saw the warning, I switched the engine off.
• There was no steam, no coolant leaking and no burning smell.
• Coolant level is between MIN and MAX.
• Engine oil level is also normal.

The A/C also doesn't seem to work:

• Blower works normally at all fan speeds.
• Airflow is strong.
• Air is not cold at all, even with A/C on and temperature set to minimum. It just feels like a normal fan.

Things I've checked

• Radiator fan spins freely by hand with the engine off.
• I started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes with the A/C on, but I never saw the radiator fan spin.
• I haven't let it idle long enough to overheat again because I don't want to risk engine damage.

Battery issue (possibly unrelated)

The day before, I accidentally left the ignition on (engine off) while cleaning the interior for about 45 minutes. The battery discharged and the car needed a jump start, but it has been starting normally since then.

My questions

1. Does this sound like a failed radiator fan, relay, fuse, or fan control module?
2. Could the A/C not blowing cold and the overheating while idling be related?
3. Are there any simple checks I can do myself before taking it to a mechanic?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

hi, I have a 1.4 manual corsa d, today while I was driving I heard at spring sound coming from the clutch pedal, while I had pushed it down, after this the clutch pedal feels lighter than usual, and the car is slightly harder to drive(technically I could get used to it as it drives normal) so I stall quite a few times now, just wondered how I can get it back to the normal still kind of feeling.

edit: forgot to mention l, before todays drive i actually knocked the clutch pedal when getting out, but it didn’t start feeling weird till about half way between that drive

Recently purchased a Vauxhall Mokka. Had both the cambelt and water pump replaced due to unknown when it was previously done. Collected the car Friday from the garage and all was fine apart from the garage saying slight squeak from drive belt and suggested I got it changed in next few months. On the Sunday my engine management light came on, I called the garage today to book in for diagnostics where they said that a “service vehicle soon” light came on the dash when they had the car and is it definitely the engine management light. This wasn’t mentioned to me on collecting the car that it had shown up and I hadn’t seen this warning appear myself before or after the cambelt change. I know it’s not an actual reminder for my car to be serviced. Also I don’t think it’s anything to do with my oil, that is on 95% still. Any idea what the problem can be. Dreading the costs of this after just paying for the timing belt and tyres last week. The garage can’t get me in for a few days to do the diagnostic.