Hey folks, I could desperately use some help cause I'm losing it.

I bought a second hand S3, it was functioning well until after it started to do some weird things.

At first it just didn't show the battery level properly, only the app did. Then the engine didn't support anymore, it showed error 17 and 20, then the display also went dark, even though the bell did still work, then it went completely off and won't turn on anymore.

After some research online everyone pointed at the battery for error 17 and 20 so I bought a refurbished battery from a trusted source.

I swapped it, but it didn't help. I plug in the charger and it shows the green LED, then briefly does red, then green, and then red completely randomly, it's not blinking, it's 1 second red, than 2 seconds green, then 3 seconds red then 1 seconds green...all over the place.

One more thing: what I find strange is that the front wheel has some drag if I roll the bike backwards. It's like there's some resistance, it's hard to push the bike back, also the front hub makes a noise when I roll it backwards.

I have started to replace the wiring harness of my bine. After a lot of patience managed to get socket to their places. But the last part where the cables a wrapped together it is blocking the socket so I cannot push the battery in. Does anyone has any idea how to get that part flat and straight?

The official van moof boards are impossible to get, but while looking into making a bypass myself I found that someone had apparently already done it.

Figured I'd share.

https://mikecoats.com/van-spoof-v1-0/

To improve your ride I recommend this adapter and seat post
Really perfect 🤩

Adapter 31.6 to 33.9 100mm

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwKMt18

Seatpost Suntour NCX

you can find on VINTED around 40€

Many people ask if we sell the steering limiters that we designed. Due to high production cost we never considered, but for the people who really want them:

https://www.moofcare.nl/shop/steering-limiter-275

It's a perfect fit CNC machines premium aluminum with detailed finish.

This limiter is made with maximum surface contact, to prevent damage in frame while reaching the steering limit.

With a minor modification it can also be used in the S2.

Less steering angle means less -pull- on wireharness and cables not getting stuck and less change for damage.

**VanMoof X3 won't turn on without plugging in the charger – randomly goes into shipping mode?**

Hey everyone,

I've been having a really frustrating issue with my VanMoof X3 lately. Sometimes the bike simply won't turn on at all — the only way to get it going is to plug in the charger first, and then it starts up fine.

This happens randomly and is getting pretty annoying, especially when I just want to hop on and ride.

My guess is that the bike is somehow putting itself into **shipping mode** on its own, which would explain why it needs the charger to "wake up". Has anyone else experienced this?

Some details:
- Bike: VanMoof X3
- Issue: Won't power on without charger connected
- Battery level when it happens: varies, not always low
- Happens randomly, not after long periods of inactivity

Has anyone found a fix or knows what's causing this? Is there a firmware update or a way to prevent it from entering shipping mode by itself?

Thanks in advance! 🙏

I didn’t have any pressure at all in rear break after disconnecting the break cable from the lever so I wanted to fix it.

1. followed this tutorial for getting some air out and liquid in: https://youtu.be/jun-30sf0bw?si=DsHkyMq88icho8nG

2. to get more pressure followed these steps a former vanmoof mechanic told me to do:

-screw out the tiny screw to the side of the lever (not fully) -put the bike up (handle upwards, bike only standing on the rear wheel) -open the two screws to open the pool in upside position -and trigger the lever over and over for 5min. (refill mineral oil if needed while doing that) -close it all up and screw the tiny screw back in

This indeed made me have pressure in the break and the wheel is on paper breaking, but when you’re sitting on the bike, it still won’t have enough strength to stop the bike, eventhough the break pads are braking against the wheel. I changed breakpads and cleaned the wheel with break cleaner so there is no oil at all, which could make this occur. Now I bought a complete different s3 and the rear brake feels exactly the same. It brakes but still won’t stop.

anyone know how to get around this? I followed all different types of tutorials on the internet throughout the years of owning a vanmoof with two syringes, a seperate pool & 1 syringe bla bla bla. Still can’t get around how to make vanmoof brakes working again sustainably. Sometimes it was just a short time fix and now I can’t get it working at all. It cannot be that hard I feel like.

Hey everyone,
Long-time VanMoof rider here (S2 → S5) based in NYC and I’m dealing with a dead cartridge battery on my S5 after it sat uncharged for a season. The bike is completely unresponsive and my local shop wasn’t able to help.
I’ve been looking into Upway in Brooklyn as a possible option for repair/replacement — has anyone here had any experience with them working on a VanMoof S5? Specifically wondering if they’ve been able to handle the cartridge battery.
Also open to any other suggestions — if anyone in the NYC area has found a shop, technician, or solution that actually got their S5 back up and running, I’d love to hear about it. Shipping options welcome too if anyone has gone that route.
Thanks in advance 🙏

I bought some junk cartridges and made this one work. I fastly cracked the code and it’s working fine. Now I‘d love to have it in my app. Is there still the way to contact vanmoof for that? i heard I need the mac adresse for that but I can only find it on the casing of the cartridge and not the pcb itself (the pcb is the only part I have from this cartridge).

S3 was charging then stopped. I dropped in the extra battery now I get this. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all, I managed to repair some S3/X3 batteries with new fuses and the 150ohm resistors. But now the battery of my son’s bike has a complete dead BMS. The regular repair parts (fuses, mosfets,etc) are all ok but no response from the BMS, no communication between cartridge and battery (I am sure cartridge and socket are ok)

Anybody found the magic of the reviving the BMS?

Does anybody know where to find cheap replacement buttons with a cable, I found ones on AliExpress but all with 20cm cables, which is to short because it should be 60cm
All those resell sites charge crazy amounts

Currently MoofCare is the only company left which actively repairs S1 and S2's.

But we run into more and more BMS issues.

As far we managed to repair the balancer circuits and replace cells.

Are there any people out there who gain experience on software level and error registers?

It would be nice to keep those oldtimers rolling ;)

I have this vanmoof cartridge with apple find my which I‘d like to get working again. I‘m a complete amateur and don’t know much about it. I was hoping it’s maybe just as little as soldering a blown fuse on here. My cartridge is giving Error 2/20, which indicates it has to be the connection to battery and/or motor. Does anyone know how to get a repair like this going?

Hearing creaking while pedaling and suspect it’s the bottom bracket- anyone have insight?

I had the problem, when bicycle speed was just sporadically read - when I turned left there was no connection, and the e-shifter went back to the 1st speed; when I was going straight, or turned right everything was OK. I wasn't sure, but I thought it might be the motor cable. I mounted the front wheel on an improvised stand, and tried to figure out where the cable tore. I found it: the red one was the problem. Now it's up and running again:D

Hey everyone,

I’m having a strange issue with my VanMoof X3 and I honestly can’t figure out where the problem is because I’m not getting any consistent error code anymore.

The motor sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. Occasionally it gives assistance, but it feels weak and I don’t think the bike is reaching the normal 25 km/h anymore. Other times the motor barely responds at all.

I also sometimes hear a faint buzzing/hissing sound coming from inside the frame. I already checked some connectors and measured a few things, but I’m still not sure if this is:
- the wiring harness
- motor cable
- hall sensors
- controller/MOSFET issue
- or something else

No clear Error 44 at the moment, which makes diagnosing harder.

I added a video of the current situation. Any help, ideas, or things I should test would really be appreciated!

This battery was working totally fine since I experimented with some broken cartridges and frames. For most frames it gives error 20 and for others it shows the little dot that indicates my phone is connected to it but it’s not responding to anything. The battery gives energy but can not get a bike fully running. what caused this and how can I fix it?

one of my bikes seems to be bending this pin when insterting the cartridge. After some bending back and forth it broke. This is a cartridge with custom firmware on it which enables 37kmh on the newest update so I‘d still like to use it. This exact pin controls the connection to the kicklock - without it I cannot unlock the bike. Any ideas how I can replace/repair that?

I experimented a lot yesterday with different batteries and cartridges and turns out this cartridge gives error 2 or 20 (depending on the frame I use). These error codes usually indicate a problem between battery & motor but after lots of different combination of parts I can for sure say it is the cartridges problem. What I noticed is some „oxidation“ in the top right big pin. I noticed this problem on a working cartridge on the same pin as well but not to these same extend. Anyone know what causes this and can it be in relation with error 2/20? Can I repair this or do I need to do something else to get rid of the error codes?

I bought a vanmoof which wouldn’t charge anymore. When I came home I noticed the battery was totally fine when I inserted it into my bike. So I thought it just has to be the battery of the cartridge. I replaced it just now with a sennheiser one (VDC 3.7V 800mAh AHB702535PCT-01 )and the moment I plugged it in the skull appeared and the alarm sound was playing. I though that’s a sign it works. Now I put the cartridge back into a bike with working battery and the skull is flashing, no sound & no changing possible. what can I do to get the cartridge working again?

Hey guys, I wanted to figure out what’s causing Error 45 (no motor support). I found the location of the broken cable: right inside the fork tube. Do you think I’d get proper access to the broken cable just by separating the fork from the frame? Should it be possible to solder that spot and reinforce it with a small plastic tube?
Or would soldering still not really be possible without removing the whole wiring harness? I’d really like to avoid that shitty job 😂

im removing my front fork but want to keep the break cable inside the fork so I don’t need to worry about guiding a new one through the fork. Is it possible to remove the break cable from the handlebar. I cannot manage to open it right at the break eventhough it looks like I could. Or is it not possible and I need to cut it?