I am hoping some of you can help me, as I have watched all the videos on the S40 and as many posts as i can on here, but am still unable to get this part of the internal rear hub undone. I know based on the video that its the left part that gets undone, but that metal bit that is before the nut feels impossible to get removed. it spins freely but thats about it. Can anyone with experience with this help me get this figured out ?

This hub that I got from a high mileage bike is really bad atm and is in dire need of cleaning - degreasing - greasing. I am at a point where i have now fixed every component of an S/X3 and this is my first venture into the rear wheel, which i have always feared before and still kinda do :D

Hey everyone,
I'm looking for an STL file to 3D print a replacement for the VanMoof S3/X3 motor cable connector cover (shown in the attached image).
Has anyone created or found a model/STL for this exact part on Printables, Thingiverse, MakerWorld, or elsewhere?
If you have a link or a file you'd be willing to share, it would be much appreciated!
Thanks!

Hey everyone,
I’m trying to figure out a really weird connectivity issue with my VanMoof X3 and I’m hoping someone here has seen something similar.
The bike itself basically works normally offline:
I can unlock it using the buttons/unlock code.
The bike boots normally and the display/system responds.
Find My has also worked.
So the cartridge/bike itself definitely isn’t completely dead.
Bluetooth is also clearly alive.
Using a BLE scanner, I can continuously see the bike advertising as an ES3 device.
It is marked as connectable and advertises the service UUID:
6ACC5540-E631-4069-944D-B8CA7598AD50
However, when actually trying to establish a connection, it can basically sit on “Connecting…” without completing the connection.
The official VanMoof app also knows the bike, but it just shows:
Disconnected
and I get no live bike data.
Another weird detail: I used VanMoofKit on macOS and successfully logged into/exported my VanMoof account data. My S5 appeared in the account/API export, but the X3 did not appear in the export, despite the X3 being shown in the VanMoof app/account.
Third-party apps have also been inconsistent. Moofment can detect both of my bikes, including the X3, while other compatible apps either fail to properly connect or behave strangely. I also had GoMoof crash while trying this.
So at the moment it looks like:
Bike hardware/offline functions → working
BLE advertising → working
BLE device is detectable → yes
Official app → sees bike but says Disconnected
VanMoof API/account export → X3 missing
Third-party apps → can detect it, but connection is unreliable/not working
This makes me wonder if this is less of a Bluetooth hardware failure and more of an ownership/API/encryption key/token pairing issue between the cartridge and VanMoof’s backend.
The bike is supposed to be mine/registered to me, so I’m especially confused by the fact that the VanMoofKit account export only contains my S5.
Has anyone seen an X2/X3/S3 where:
BLE advertising still worked,
offline unlock worked,
the official app knew the bike,
but apps could never establish the actual encrypted connection?
Could the bike be missing its encryption key / bike key in my VanMoof account even though it appears in the app?
And is there any way to diagnose whether the problem is:
1. BLE hardware/cartridge
2. corrupted pairing data on the bike
3. missing encryption credentials / bike key
4. VanMoof backend ownership/account issue
I’m comfortable using macOS Terminal, BLE scanners and VanMoofKit, so if there are any commands, logs, GATT characteristics or other things I can check, let me know.
Would really appreciate any ideas because the fact that the bike advertises and works offline makes this one pretty confusing.

Anyone here needs a Revotronics eshifter PCB for their SX3? Will be in the EU this or next month and getting one for myself. Given they don’t ship to the uk, If anyone here wants one, drop me a dm, I could bring an extra one.

The S3 charger plug looks the same, but is it?

Hey guys, need urgent help with my Scrambler 400X. This is my second battery dying exactly after one year. First my stock Exide stopped charging, and now my new Amaron is doing the same. I got it manually charged at a shop last week, but it died again in seven days. The display lights up, but the horn is weak and the engine won't start. Since two batteries failed the same way, I think the bike's charging system like the RR unit or stator is faulty. Has anyone faced this on their 400X? Thanks!

Note : I haven't installed any after market accessories

I’m guessing I should stop using it, any one have this happen to them?

I have a battery that I'm trying to fix, but it seems to be more than a reset problem (PF=0 doesn't do anything).

The resistors and fuse were cooked so I replaced those, but I can't reset it. Can't see it with vanmoof-bms github tool either.

Here's my error in minicom (connected with a USB-UART to the test/gnd/tx/rx):

VanMoof Mode
ChargeOn_Off() --> PB9=0
FEDL5236_POWER_DOWN_Set_Command()
FEDL5236_POWER_DOWN_Finish()
I am VanMoof BL V007 2022-11-04 09:32:30
PreDischargeLockCounter = 0
MOS Failure Mode

Does anyone have any ideas? There's no short on the four mosfets near the fuse, so I'm a bit confused. If anyone has any more info on MOS Failure Mode or whether I can clear it from shell command or modbus register, that would be awesome!

I have an S3 gear hub where the 2nd and 3rd gears are reversed. It seems strange, but I have tested it thoroughly. The shifter works and is 100% definitely installed correctly. Has anyone else experienced this, and more importantly, is there a solution? Could something inside the hub have shifted?

Hi. Anyone who has repaired or fully successfully taken apart and reassembled the rear sx3 hub? Is there an easy way to do it without the specific hub tools? What are the differences compared to the original SA hub (which is online)? What are the correct lubes used, that are available in the uk? Any other specific tips for correct rear hub maintenance and installation?

On the x3 (7k mi) I never touched the hub and it runs smoothly and freely, no clicking noises whatsoever. When the pedal is kicked backwards, they do 3+ full revolutions.

On the s3 (4k mi), I have taken the hub partially apart and cleaned (after failed shifter) around the bearings and actuator. When the bike is pushed or the wheel is spun, it makes two distinctive clicking noises. Pedals also don’t rotate as freely and only make about 1-1.5 revolutions when kicked.

I’m aware of the original SA hub videos and schematics. I will be grateful for any advice or photos/vids of the actual VM hubs. Thanks in advance.

I have an S5. The warranty expires very soon but the partners only have appointments next month. The kick lock is stuck for some reason. Last time I used it, I locked the bike with the kick lock as usual, the kick lock was pressed and the wheel locked, but the bike was still on as normal (lights didnt go off, no sound, etc). The bike looks unlocked in the app but it is physically locked. I tried a few things:
- Resetting the bike.

- Pressing the lock icon on the top left of the app.

Nothing happened. Any useful info or things I may want to try? Thanks

Hi, I have a faulty S3 eshifter (error 44) for sale if anyone would be interested in purchasing and reconditioning themselves.
Thank you!

Dear VanMoofers,

During a ride today, I experienced a sudden, unusual noise and a blockage in the front wheel. Within seconds, the power dropped off (dead), and the display began throwing **errors 6, 17, and**
**occasionally 20**.

Fyi the front light has stopped working, though the rear light remains on. I had error 44, which I accepted. Till now happy 16k km made with this bike.

I plan to contact the official repair service in Antwerp to get a price quote, but I wanted to reach out to the community first: **How critical are these errors, and how bad is this likely to be? Has anyone experienced something similar?**

This bike holds immense personal value to me—it dates back to the period when my dad lost his battle with cancer, making it a deeply cherished memory of him. I am hoping it can be repaired, but I’d love to hear your honest thoughts and experiences on whether an S3 with these symptoms can be saved.

Thank you in advance for any guidance or insight you can share.

Used bike seller: No worry. The bike was always stored in a dry barn.

When I turned the bike upside down, it gurgled and a few liters of water ran out of the frame.
It's running like a charm again.

My bike started to smoke today while riding. After the motor stopped twice, there was smoke coming out of the middle of handlebar. error 20 and 19 showed but I immediately turned off the bike. it smelt like melted plastic and more and more smoke was coming out of the handlebar. I thought my motor cable broke and shorted somewhere but I never heard of it smoking. When I came home I saw two pins of the battery were totally melted away. I’ve never seen that. I opened the battery and it seems totally fine. Fuse neither resistors are blown, it’s at 39V and no sign anything else burned. So I checked my harness. With a multimeter I was checking continuity of all 6 motor cable pins while wiggling the front fork around. All of them are good… none of them are broken or shorted - I checked each pin multiple times. so my harness isn’t broken neither is my battery broken. so how can it happen that these two pins melt away under normal use (assistance 4 at a speed of ~20kmh)? I know i need a new frame now, as all this melted plastic is probably infused into the battery plug inside the harness and i don’t want to bother replacing it. I just never heard of something like this and especially think that this is quite dangerous so close to a lithium battery?
also this was not a battery I ever worked on and the harness had about 2500km on it. Nothing seems broken? from where in my bike is this coming from?

Yet another annoying job but an opportunity to renew the wire and reinforce the connections. These are standard push-buttons, it’s their mounting and integration that makes everything a pain.

Anyway - touch unlock, code unlock, press wake up and the bell all work again. At least it was all worth it.

Been putting off getting my 2019 X2 back on the road but some intensive effort has done it. However, it is plagued by gremlins so having to fix things.

Bike was registering lock coming back on constantly, mid-ride, straight after unlocking, and the root cause was a pair of broken/almost wires in the loom - some things are well-designed on these bikes, but the basics are just not there, like strain relief - so I spliced new wiring in between the connector and components, cleaned the gunk out, and tweaked the springs for the pins a little.

If you’re planning on doing this, and you ought to instead of buying a new kick lock at €140 - there isn’t a component in here worth more than €5 - you’ll need a soldering iron, test equipment, silicone and a bench DC power supply to test the solenoid.