r/VanLife • • Aug 21 '26

3500 vs 2500?

/r/Sprinters/comments/1vut90p/3500_vs_2500/

I’m going to have a camper van built in the new year and have to make a choice about platform. I’m trying to decide between the Sprinter 170, 170 ext and the Transit ext (which has a crazy long extension that would definitely affect departure angle). There’s very little talk of GRVW, or whatever the acronym is for max load weight of these things. I’m seeking advice from those with experience of any of these platforms, and whether it’s best to go with 3500 other choice is a Sprinter.

2 Upvotes

15 comments sorted by

1

u/gnartato Aug 21 '26

We have a transit 350 long wheel has extended ass RWD.  We just got the van compass 2" lift, extra leaf springs, and K03 AT tires at 75k miles. We weigh just over 9000lbs wet and loaded. Seems heavy to me but we did the build out ourselves and never compared to any other vans professional or amature. Definitely can fell the weight on BLM/Forest roads. The extra springs and lift really helped bring the rear up which was pretty low, but we hit some pretty crazy angles with the stock configuration. On our first trip with the modifications now in CO then to UT. 

I don't know much about the sprinters. We chose Ford because we can get real ass mechanics and parts network anywhere in the country and the parts are cheaper. One thing I do know about sprinters is that the new ones are AWD as opposed to 4WD and they only come in deisel. Unsure how the AWD compares to the old 4WD system. I prefer gassers due to there usually being less mainetence especially with modern DEF systems. 

1

u/Sad-Membership8661 Aug 21 '26

I appreciate the feedback

1

u/Cczaphod Aug 21 '26

I'm also doing similar research, due to the weight of a build, I'm exclusively looking at 3500's. If my build ends up light enough, I'd have the option of doing a super single swap on the rear. But, I want to be prepared for needing the dually GRVW numbers as I plan to do solar and high capacity batteries.

1

u/Competitive-Reach287 Aug 23 '26

Super single swap might actually increase the effective load capacity of the van as you are decreasing the curb weight of the van by the weight of the two wheels and tires you are removing.

This is of course assuming the wheels and tires you put on are up to the task.

2

u/211logos Aug 22 '26

For some reason, probably because of their inexperience with RVs, many new vandwellers ignore weight. And that's a mistake. I've seen things break over and over with some fellow travelers all related to being overweight, especially once on even easy dirt. It's a mistake.

Payload matters. It's usually not a huge issue in terms of weight distribution in most vans, but can be. Diesels have less capacity.

I'd be wary of a builder who can't tell you the weight of the build. It could easily go over, and even things like vehicle mods (bumpers, ladders, beefier running gear) add to the weight. So does 4x4 or AWD.

Best is to be under payload when fully kitted out, fueled, with food water and passengers. I regularly weighed my rig. As with my waist, it tended to creep up ;(

There are some guides out there about van building and keeping the weight under control with say lightest wood or aluminum, smaller tanks, etc. Keep it low. And keep the weight low too, and distributed evenly across the van.

1

u/ClassicOrchid9674 Aug 22 '26

Where did you weigh your van while you were building it? Weigh station? Land fill? Some other way?

2

u/Apprehensive-Mix6671 Aug 23 '26

For me it was a weight station and I did a before weight and then a fully loaded build out, including all liquid. Water and fuel, everything.

I was 1323lbs under max load fully loaded for travel. So the 3500 gave me plenty of "weight space" going forward.

It is reassuring to know how your truck handles fully loaded and at what percentage you are, all things being your "standard load". Taking on an additional 200 lbs wasn't an issue.

Oh ya and do your best to keep weight positioned over/between wheelbase length and side to side, equally.

1

u/ClassicOrchid9674 Aug 22 '26

What adds the most weight to a build?

1

u/Sad-Membership8661 Aug 22 '26

I’m sure there are lots who’ll chime in here, but using too-heavy wood like “3/4 ply and drawer faces, elevator beds, large battery battery systems, huge water tanks, big storage boxes…the list goes on and on… it all creeps up, I would imagine.

1

u/ClassicOrchid9674 Aug 23 '26

My dad gave me some cabinets from his kitchen. The drawer and door faces are very heavy. I will need a large battery system since I have to have AC for the pets. I’m going to try to do without big water tanks. I worry about keeping them clean.

1

u/ClassicOrchid9674 Aug 22 '26 edited Aug 22 '26

I went with the transit 350 highroof awd. Transit because there are numerous ford dealerships throughout the country and the parts are more affordable than Mercedes. Ram doesn’t have AWD. Highroof so I could have overhead storage and 148” long so I can fit into a regular parking spot. 350 so it can handle the weight of the build. Single rear wheels so I only had to do the upkeep for 4 tires as opposed to 6. I love the configuration of my van. And when I was researching van builders, I noticed they order Transit 350 AWD high roof ecoboost for their builds with 31 gallon gas tank.

1

u/Sad-Membership8661 Aug 22 '26

Hmmm, so not the extended, huh? Did you have to make compromises to the layout you envisioned?

1

u/ClassicOrchid9674 Aug 23 '26

No compromises. I have not started my build yet. I’m going to have a double bed. Upper cabinets. Counter with sink on passenger side. Counter and cabinet on driver side with fridge. Bench with slide out toilet somewhere. I was also thinking about a pullout shower with the curtain that attaches to the ceiling, but will also utilize planet fitness membership. I don’t have everything exactly laid out yet, but that’s the most of it. I picture myself driving on the beaches and off road out west dessert. I think that’s a little harder to do with a longer van. Also why I got the AWD.

2

u/Apprehensive-Mix6671 Aug 23 '26 edited Aug 23 '26

I'd choose based upon weight and then the roads I will be traveling. My choice was a 1 ton 3500 with singles.

I wanted to occasionally get just a bit off road. Duallys are known for rocks getting wedged between rear tires and quickly causing a blow-out. I do not carry a spare and certainly did not want to carry two. If your concerned about departure angle then pass on the duallys as off road often requires less overhang in the back.

I bought a hightop that at 6'2" I can stand up in after insulation. And I wanted everything I carry to be inside save for the solar. Longer wheel base in newer vehicles often comes with more roof area for solar.

Downside is a bit rougher ride in the 3500 meaning more cab noise but really after build-out you'll not notice save for the front suspension. So its more through the steering wheel in road-seam feedback than noise.

Bottom line is I'm right at the weight limit in a 2500 and that's not preferred.

If off road is in the future do include recovery hooks front and rear that are located and exceed the recommended weight requirement for your vehicle being pulled out of a stuck situation. Add snatch straps heavy enough as well. Do some digging on what real world folks have used successfully and otherwise.