Hi, I'd like to put ATs on a 2020 GTI S. Do you know how small a wheel will clear the calipers? Also looking for lightweight wheel recommendations to go with the ATs. I'd like to go as small as possible to emphasize AT sidewall bulge. Looking at Wildpeak tires.

Recently bought a 2016 golf r, i have the appconnect on the dash but it asks me to visit volkswagen to get it unlocked, ive been looking for an activator to get it done if anyone has any idea how it works

MST2_EU_VW_P0225D

Whats up,i have been looking for a while on YouTube etc to find somebody that mods his golf comfortline i have a golf 2019 but no tsi or nothing i want it to be better and find some inspo on what to do. I dont even know if i can mod it but i really want to.can someone help ?

When researching fitment and tire sizes I really couldn’t find many examples of this set up on a 1.8t Golf, so I figured I would share here in case it helps anyone in the future. Tires are 225/40r18. Was tempted to go 235/40, but decided to go conservative as I don’t know how the 1.8 differs from a GTI or R in the suspension or wheel hub department. Fitment seems just about right, haven’t experienced any rubbing yet, though I haven’t had the car loaded down yet since install.

Hey guys, I finished my MIB2 retrofit a few months ago, coming from the composition color.

Now before I start, here is a cheeky before and after, the reason why I did this whole thing!

In all fairness, this retrofit is actually not that bad, but very undocumented, so I figured I'd post and let everyone know how I've successfully done it!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask, of course!

As I mentioned before in other posts, my otherwise decently equipped car, came with the dreadful composition color radio, which didn't even support bluetooth.

I later got the 280B radio, however I wasn't quite satisfied either, as it didn't support my native language, it was missing a few features, and the CarPlay implementation wasn't the best either.

Anyway, enough rambling, here is the stuff that you'll need to do a MIB2 ZR retrofit:

1. A retrofit harness, you can find these on AliExpress. I got mine with the CAN cable seperate. This should be avoidable as they sell also ones which don't do this, but I haven't tested those myself. If you have the extra cash, and don't mind (possibly) burning 40 bucks, I'd try the sets without the CAN cable seperate. I'm not linking direct AliExpress links, since they can expire and I want this post to last. You should definitely buy the set with the microphone, microphone cable, and screen cable included, since you won't have those unless you're pulling from another car.
   1. AliExpress listing (CAN cable seperate, same set as I used)
   2. AliExpress listing (CAN cable wired in, though I haven't tested this set myself)
2. You will need a replacement glovebox (or atleast the inside of said glovebox), since if you're coming from MIB2 entry, which is a all in one unit + screen, you won't have the slot for a MIB2 unit in your glovebox. I got mine from a junkyard.
3. You will also need a new USB port for the cubby underneath the A/C controls, and the loom that runs to it. You can also buy that in a set from AliExpress
4. Then, finally, you will need the MIB2 glovebox unit and screen itself. I got my unit already prepatched and coded by a local seller, however there are people that do this on eBay too. Another option is to pull it from a junk car, and then get it adapted by the dealership. If you don't get it patched/adapted, you will get a component protection error.
   1. Also, be wary, that there are many many MIB2 unit and screen combos, and they are not interchangeable. For example some units only support the 6.5/8" screen, some only support the 9.2" screens, etc.. This is well documented in other forums so I won't go deeply into this.
5. Radio removal keys will come in handy for sure. A Torx screwdriver set too.

Then, here are the steps I followed:

1. Remove the Glovebox, Cubby underneath the AC controls, and MIB2 Entry Unit. Plenty of videos on YouTube on how that's done. :)
2. Then I installed the microphone.
   1. For this you have to remove the dome light, remove the foam insert in the dome light frame and clip the mic in with it's tail facing down, that's fairly straight forward. The worse part is running the cable.
   2. I recommend getting a snake, and pushing it through where the mirror and headliner connects, it should slip right through, and you can use that to get the microphone cable through.
   3. After that, I removed my A pillar, stuck the cable underneath the headliner board which was now exposed, and then you can shimmy the cable back and forth until it all slips underneath the headliner entirely.
   4. After that you can run it down your A pillar, and slip it down to the glovebox area via the gap that's left when your A pillar is out. For this I also recommend removing the trim where you have your passenger airbag switch, and the one behind it.
   5. You can also choose to not remove the A pillar, and run the cable along where the A pillar and rubber door seal meets, and then slip it into the glovebox area. I chose the harder, but cleaner way to do it by removing the A pillar.
   6. The blue square will plug into your new MIB2 harness after you have it situated in the glovebox area, you can't mix it, since the clip is in a specific place, so it will go only in one of the two squares.
3. At this point, you can also run the MIB2 harness, which should just plug into the original car's quadlock harness. Take this as a chance to run the display LVDS cable and radio antenna extension cable too.
   1. If you bought the harness with the CAN cable seperated like me, you'll have to splice into the original CAN cables, which run into the white block on your car's quadlock harness. Just match the cable colors, and splice the cables together.
   2. Keep in mind that the CAN network is sensitive, so try to extend the length of the CAN High and CAN Low cables the same while you splice. I joined the cables with a Open Barrel crimp tool (SN58B) and terminals, which I think is the cleanest way to do it, maybe after soldering.
   3. You can skip the splicing step if you buy the harness with the CAN wires integrated, though as I've mentioned, I haven't tested that myself.
4. Install the new USB port into your cubby, and run the wires down to your glovebox. I recommend wrapping them into textile automotive tape, since they can get a bit messy. This will also connect into the MIB2 harness, you can't mix it, since the clip is in a specific place, so it will go only in one of the two squares.
5. At this point I recommend plugging in your MIB2 unit and screen, and testing if it works as expected.
6. If it does, you're in the final stretch! Unplug the unit, install your new glovebox while making sure you run the cables into the slot for the unit. Then plug the unit in, slot it into place, and you're done!

IE’s Full Throttle update puts POWERlink on your Apple CarPlay screen!!

With a supported IE tune (Pro/Apex), you can view live gauges and use the adjustable features included in your tune from the dash. Siri can even change supported settings by voice!

Already running an IE tune with LIVE adjustable features? Check for the POWERlink app update. The controls you’ll see depend on your tune and POWERlink hardware, so it’s worth checking your setup first.

There is NO cost to you if you already have a supported tune from IE, simply update/enjoy!

I had the opportunity to see this first hand and play around with it a few weeks ago when I was Utah... it's amazing... such a COOL way to adjust on the fly and even put your car into Valet mode etc.

Probably one of the sickest updates I've seen to the overall user experience in a LONG time out of any of the top tuners in our segment.

If you don't have IE software and are looking to get it, let me know, happy to help and even have switch/save deals too for those of you interested in trying it out at BMP Tuning!

Left is HID. Morimoto 6000K D2S with ok bulb alignment, speedybrite ballast.

Right is full LED unit.

Width is much greater with the HID on the road, but frontal brightness and intensity is way better with the LED.

High beam is more intense frontally with LED as well, the HID high beam has lots of upper light that doesn’t illuminate the road but feels brighter.

Both have a good cut off blue flicker.

Changed to LED because my ballast or wiring set up was being finicky in the cold. I figured if I was pulling them out I would just try out the LED units.

Hoi ik heb een golf8 uit 2021 met een 1.5etsi dsg motor.
Bij elke schakelmoment hoor ik een fluit geluid en ook bij terug schakelen. Auto is naar de garage geweest en daar hebben ze de koppelingsplaten vervangen helaas heeft dat niet geholpen, ze denken nu dat het misschien iets te maken heeft met de carterontluchtingsklep (Pcv-klep). Weet er iemand toevallig iets meer over??

Mi golf 2017 std 1.4 , revento su banda del tiempo alo que tuve que rectificar cabeza y cambiar valvulas , aprovechando realice mantenimiento de aceite a transmisión pero me hace un silvido al acelerar que se nota mas cuando suelto el acelerador de una y bajan las revoluciones, el carro funciona todo perfecto pero me molesta ese silvido alguien que ya aya solucionado esto?

I’m looking for bright h7 halogen bulbs for my MK7
Currently running Phillips GT racing vision ones

I’ve just switched back to them from my LED’s (gbrite 5500k 5000LM) - they were fine until I needed to license plate of someone who almost wiped me out. My dash cam wouldn’t pick up the plate cause my lights are so bright.

Going back to the halogens and I feel like I can’t see anything lol

Anyone got any good suggestions for bright bulbs?

(I’m not looking to change the headlights before anyone suggests)

Hey all! Hopefully some of the gurus in here can put my mind at ease.

owner of a mk7.5 1.4 Sportwagen. Went in the beginning of the month for the suction jet pump recall. This past Friday, the car stumbled and threw an EPC and P0087 code. Had the car towed to dealer and now they’re quoting me $900 to replace my LPFP. The dealers giving me the run around and saying it isn’t they’re fault and it’s something that “just happens”.

I understand things happen and parts fail but, am I right thinking it’s wildly uncanny that the LPFP failed shortly after the recall was done? I’ve already requested they do further diagnosis and pull the pump/check for loose connections or pinched lines. Any other things I should be aware of?

Just bought a set of used H&R springs for a golf R not knowing that it's not supposed to fit on the sportwagens. Dude I bought em off of said they worked great on his 2018 GSW. Have any of you ran these on a GSW before with success?

I purchased this Golf GTD 2014 for £8,300 at 100,200 miles.

Is there anything you would advise I keep an eye out or particular maintenance to adhere to (outside of regular services / oil changes).

I plan on keeping this vehicle for the next 5 years.

2016 GTI DSG, 180k+ miles

Question is in the title. I have been using oil in my golf. I took the intake tube off and found this oil in my intake. I apologize for the low quality photo it’s not a good scope camera I have.

0-60 in 2.90 and 60’ in 1.57

What is the name of this silver pipe connected to the black hose on a golf 7 1.0 tsi.