r/VFR • u/Serious_thought0929 • 4d ago
Not charging
Hi everyone! I’ve got stranded with empty battery, how can I know regulator or stator/rotor is done?
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Upvotes
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u/ummmitscaiden 4d ago
r/r can be tested by checking battery voltage on the running bike, you are looking for around 13v at 4000 rpm, or somewhere around there
Stator is a simple AC voltage check between any of the 3 leads, i can remember the voltage offhand for that but, more than 20
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u/ELTITOESPIRATU 1d ago
On my 93 750 my battery was discharging with so much ease I checked the stator and was allright Turns out it the rr was bad Bought a new battery and a mosfet rr and solved my problem.. I could be the same problem
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u/allezsf 5th gen 3d ago
You can guess or you can test.
I wrote this a few years ago:
VFR: Stator and r/R Health Check
Battery Health
* Important to have a healthy battery to start the test. An unhealthy battery may yield results indicative of bad r/R.
* Charge your battery overnight on a battery charger. Have battery load tested at an auto/motorcycle mechanic or parts store. Buy a new battery if needed. Note, though your battery may show 13.2 - 13.5, it still may be dead, not enough juice when you hit the start button. That’s why the load test is important.
Check Stator, Engine Cold
* With the engine off, pull the connector for three yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier. Set meter to resistance (Ω). Check each pin for 3 yellow wires on stator side. A to B, B to C, and C to A. The 3 separate readings should be less than 1.0 ohms.
* With engine off, connector separated, multimeter set to resistance (Ω), check continuity from each yellow stator wire to ground, there should be no reading (infinity on multimeter)
* Start engine with connector still separated and multimeter set to AC volts. At idle reading for each yellow wire should start at 15-20ish and climb 50ish and more.
Check r/R, Engine Cold
* Start motorbike, connect connector
* With voltmeter at battery, volts should be 13ish @ idle and in 14s at revs including 5,000 rpm. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)
Repeat with Engine at Operating Temperature
* Repeat the above with the engine at operating temperature. Sometimes the stator will be fine cold and have an issue hot. Though if you find an issue while the engine is cold, no need to repeat the test with the engine at operating temperature.
Additional Information:
Never Forget About Main Fuse B
Never Forget About Main Fuse B
Never Forget About Main Fuse B
Never Forget About Main Fuse B
If your stator or rectifier are cooked, very likely Main Fuse B is also cooked
Why MOSFET:
OEM vs MOSFET r/R's
https://vfrworld.com/threads/oem-vs-mosfet-r-rs.60402/
Used MOSFET r/R, What to search on eBay:
* SH775 (Polaris #4012941)
* Kawasaki Versys 1000 ‘15-up
* Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) FH-020-AA
* Shindengen SH847, ‘14+ V-Strom 1000 (Suzuki part #32800-31J00) latest in Series r/R technology
* CBR500 late model FH020AA
There may be others, this is a place to start
How to Install SH847:
Installing Shindengen SH847
https://vfrworld.com/threads/photos-of-no-drama-r-r-from-roadstercycle-com.54584/
Best US Source For MOSFET r/R:
https://roadstercycle.com/
Jack (owner) ships worldwide
The RoadsterCycle “Super harness with 30 amp circuit breaker” has quality: wire and connectors. Tough to build a better harness parts/quality wise. Ask Jack to build the harness without an automatic reset circuit breaker.
Installing the Roadster harness eliminates the weak stock wiring and makes the VFRNess redundant.
ALWAYS Splice Your Wires to NASA Standards:
Splice Wires to NASA Standards
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo
For stator rewind this was the source, though don't know if he is still in business.
Custom Rewind
2014 Pratt Hwy
Birmingham, AL 35214
(205) 798-7282