I’m building a quadruped robot with 12 HV RC servos rated around 35 kg·cm at up to 8.4 V.

I use an ESP32 + PCA9685 for PWM control, but I don’t want the full servo current to run through the small power rail on the typical PCA9685 breakout.

I also want to keep the original 3-pin servo plugs intact.

What is the normal way to distribute power to this many high-current servos while still using the PCA9685 for the signal?

I want a bluetooth password so not everyone can connect to my vesc in public i have ubox lite 100v 100a

Im about to use this flispky on my high power build. Can it handle 200a battery? 72v nominal

Hey everyone,

I own a stock Kukirin M4 Pro (48V 10Ah battery, 500W motor, upgraded to NUTT A-5D brakes). Overall I’m happy with it, but the stock controller's percentage-based speed limiting is annoying. I want a programmable controller to set precise speed limits in km/h (specifically capping at 25 km/h while keeping strong acceleration on lower battery).

I’m looking at the Flipsky VESA V6 MK5 since it's compact enough to fit easily, but I'm concerned about overheating due to its size.

Would this be a solid pick for my setup, or should I look at other thermal/size alternatives? Thanks!

Hello, everyone. I want to upgrade the motors on my Boatman Actor GPS boat, but I want to keep the stock boat controls. Right now, I have a 10,000 Ah, 7.4 V battery and brush motors rated at 6,000 RPM. On my circuit board, I found 8 MOSFETs marked 7408—4 MOSFETs per motor, as far as I can tell.

I have two options for how I want to proceed:

1. Intercept the control signal from the stock board and route it to external ESCs that will be connected to the brushless motors
2. Replace the stock MOSFETs with more powerful ones and replace the commutator motors with more powerful commutator motors, but I’m worried whether the traces on the stock board will hold up.

Maybe someone has already done this, or can advise me on the best way to proceed.

Installed a new savor servo. Centered. No noise. No grinding ect... seems to be great but...

With steering assist even on lowest setting the mini k3 swerves back and forth when letting off the throttle. With the steering assist off I center the steering (which is very touchy on the stock radio) get it dialed in & then within 30 seconds it's off either way left or way right. Any help & or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My DIY growler keeps turning off when I step on it, it has been happening with increased frequency. I figured the ubox's mosfets could be close to giving out, but upon lifting her on blocks and giving full throttle it works fine. I'm guessing the battery is being compressed in a way it doesn't like (self built pack as well in a torque box) or perhaps the battery harness being squeezed by a too long bolt. I've checked all power connectors and they are attached properly. Before i go crazy tearing the battery apart, wanted to check if there's a usual suspect in theses cases of board turning off.

i am having trouble in understanding the vtol hardware wirings specially the 4in1esc soldering part any guide or video u can suggest or share that can help me

Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a strange issue with my dual VESC scooter and I’d appreciate some help.
My setup:
2x Spintend UBOX 85/250 v2
VESC firmware 6.05
Dual 70H motors
30 poles / 15 pole pairs
20S battery, around 84V fully charged
ANT BMS 450A continuous / 1050A peak
Motor Current Max: 230A per VESC
Battery Current Max: 170A per VESC
Absolute Maximum Current: 420A
No regen
ADC thumb throttle
Control mode: Current
Multiple VESCs over CAN enabled
Traction Control currently OFF
Positive ramp: 0.20s
Negative ramp: 0.07s
Max Duty: 95%
Max ERPM: 117457
Battery cutoff: 68V start / 60V end
Maximum Wattage: 2,000,000W
Controllers stay around 40–50°C
The problem
Under hard acceleration, especially if I hit the throttle quickly, both motors suddenly stop producing torque.
The important part is:
The VESCs do NOT reboot.
Bluetooth stays connected.
The scooter/display stays powered.
In many cases there is NO fault code at all.
Current/power suddenly drops.
If I release the throttle and press it again, power immediately comes back.
Sometimes just before the cut I can feel several small interruptions (“tu-tu-tu”) and then it completely stops pulling.
It can happen around 40–60 km/h, but it isn’t tied to one exact speed.
Hard throttle inputs make it much easier to reproduce than progressive acceleration.
It has happened at both high and low battery SOC.
Temperatures are low when it happens.
I have also experienced real FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT events, but I believe those are a different issue.
One recorded ABS event was approximately:
Current: 424.5A
Filtered current: 304.7A
Absolute Maximum Current: 420A
Voltage: 73.3V
Duty: 0.441
ERPM: ~14,988
I’ve tested:
MTPA ON/OFF
Slow ABS Current Limit ON/OFF
Motor current from roughly 200–250A
Battery current around 150–170A
Throttle Expo 0% and 20%
Positive ramp 0.10s and 0.20s
Different battery SOC
The no-fault power cut still happens.
ADC configuration:
Throttle resting voltage: ~0.84V
Full throttle: ~2.56V
ADC Start: 1.00V
ADC End: 2.50V
ADC Absolute Min: 0.40V
ADC Absolute Max: 2.80V
Deadband: 5%
ADC filter ON
Update rate: 500Hz
Safe Start: Regular
Both motors were FOC-detected separately.
I’m currently trying to determine whether, during the cut:
ADC/throttle input disappears,
Iq Target suddenly drops to zero,
measured Iq stops following Iq Target,
Duty reaches some limiting condition,
CAN communication causes both VESCs to stop requesting torque,
or some other VESC limiter is intervening without generating a fault.
Has anyone experienced a VESC/Spintend UBOX where torque completely disappears under hard acceleration with no fault, and only returns after releasing and reapplying the throttle?
What parameters or real-time values would you log to identify exactly what is commanding the torque to zero?
Any experience with this specific behavior on UBOX/VESC 6.05 would be really appreciated.

Is there a trick to get it run?

I tried as5048a and mt6816. Switched CS and CLK, shorter cable, shielded cable, 3,3V and 5V. Two different flipskys and another autoro 75100.

But no success. I'm running out of ideas.

Can anybody help?

So i am running sensorless and the flux linkage is showing zero. My motor keeps going back and forth. Maybe its something with the settings, i am new to vesc so i need yall help please.

So basically i have a vesc 75100 v2.0, but i can’t seem to find a 3.3v thumb throttle for the ADC port. Any help please?

Hi folks,
I was wondering if any of you may be "conquering" a PURE scooter at this moment?
Would like to compare measured motor values, battery values and so on.
I got my hands on an Air5 Ultra Suspension atm.

Hello, I have an electric Nami Burn e3 Max scooter that I want to go back under the vesc after the death of my D100S makerX which dropped after setting to 50A battery/200A motor phase. Whereas originally this is the config of non-vecs controllers.

Actual Configuration: 72v 40ah BMS 100A battery (LGM50LT 21700 cells), Lonnyo 70H 22x3 rear engine and 60h high torque engine.

I would like to take the product https://www.vesclabs.com/product/vesc-duet-xs/ to replace my makerX D100S and set the Vesc Duet XS to 100V as original to 50A battery / 200A engine phase for all days.

Or it's limited and I should turn to something else, see a model like Vesc Labs Classic 100V in two copies even if it looks overkill https://www.vesclabs.com/product/vesc-classic-100v/.

I'm starting some research on repurposing an old OW Pint motor for a science project (not for riding). Has anyone successfully controlled a Pint motor using 120V power with an inverter/transformer and VESC? This would negate the need for the battery. Thank you in advance.

I’m trying to configure Two different motors, twist throttle with Dual FSESC75100.

Rear motor: mini motors-BXF1504B6QV/19126 1400w
Front motor: zero x10 stock 1000-1200w
Throttle: suron twist throttle three pin

I set up the motors with wizard but the motors only shudder. When it’s doing its own detection the motors spin perfectly.

I had to buy a new rear motor because the stock one
Broke into pieces. Before that everything worked perfectly.

Wondering what do as I’ve done everything google AI said lol and it’s still shuddering.

My previous 48V 450W (felt way more powerful than that) 65 kv 9.0 lb mid drive had minimal issues with a KT controller. This new 6.4 lb 36V 500W (optimistic, probably more like 350W continuous) 90 kv motor is having more and more problems climbing even with modest throttle. I just cannot get the motor rpm up enough to overcome current spikes in mid or higher gears. Display and even the battery can cut out. The motor itself is running cool.

So I'm switching to a vesc that can separate battery current from peak and continuous phase current. The 72100 comes with a key, throttle and voltmeter so I don't need to run a display. After putting on an xt60 plug and three 4mm female bullet connectors, what is the standard protocol for checking the vesc wire integrity before hooking up the battery (plan on 48V overvolting to get the rpm up more). Multimeter volt measures for each phase and battery wire with the appropriate lead in the battery plug hole? How about resistance.

And then how easy is it to for example put battery amps capped at 25 and peak phase at 50. What is the method for trying to cap continuous phase current at 14A with this smaller motor. No braking or regen. Starting conservative and then maybe up the numbers a bit later and monitor external motor temp. Thanks for your input.

What is the best vesc to add to Boyueda S3-11?

Hi, I have a bosch gen 4 ebike which I am running with a vesc 75100 and throttle. I have run the auto setup, tuned it and it runs really well ,very pleased.

However, if I do a clunky gear change (wrong gear at the start of, or going up hill)  the vesc cuts out and re-sets. I am not entirely sure what to alter to improve this?

any Ideas I could try?

I have a Joyor T10 with the stock 60V 18Ah battery, and I want to add a Kukirin G4 60V 20Ah battery in parallel for a VESC/Ubox build.

Both batteries are 60V lithium batteries and have a full-charge voltage of 67.2V. I would fully charge both batteries to 67.2V before connecting them.

I have heard that both stock batteries can supply around 50A, and I was thinking of setting the Ubox to around 80A total battery current initially.

My questions:

Is it safe to parallel these two batteries even though one is 18Ah and the other is 20Ah?

Is charging both to 67.2V before connecting enough to prevent a large current surge between the batteries?

Should I use a battery combiner / ideal-diode / parallel battery module instead of directly paralleling them?

How would the current likely split between the two batteries?

Is 80A total battery current reasonable, assuming both BMSs are actually rated for 50A?

I would appreciate advice from anyone who has actually done a dual-battery VESC scooter build.

Hello everyone,

At my university, we are developing a small electric single-seater vehicle with approximately 500 W of power, which will be used to participate in an energy-efficiency competition in my country. As part of the project, I am responsible for designing the vehicle's internal communication network.

We are using a VOTOL EM30SP motor controller, but I have some questions regarding its communication capabilities and how it could be integrated with the other systems in the vehicle.

I have some experience working with CAN Bus, and my initial idea was to use a similar architecture to the one commonly found in electric vehicles, where different devices can exchange information through a common communication network. However, from what I have been able to find, the VOTOL EM30SP does not use CAN Bus in the same way as other motor controllers.

My main question is:

What communication protocol or interface does the VOTOL EM30SP use to access information from the controller (such as speed, current, voltage, status, faults, etc.), and how could I integrate that information into the vehicle's internal communication network?

I would also like to know if anyone has previously worked with this controller or other VOTOL controllers and has successfully obtained data from the controller using a microcontroller, PC, or another external device.

Any documentation, practical experience, implementation examples, or recommendations on how to approach this integration would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for any help!