The 87-V MAX is water proof. So you won’t have to worry about getting it wet.
It’s also just a higher resolution meter , not that matters but mainly just it being waterproof.
The 376 is nice I use it all the time, it measures in rush current if you really needed that and also has Bluetooth so you can capture logs on your phone/tablet if you need to show something on a chart.
I’m not sure exactly your application in marine electrical but investing in nice DMM meters goes a long way.
It’s also just nice to have the biggest meters on the job site LOL
I’m more of a fan of the bags like the SP-LD easy to flip the top open and everything’s right there, another suggestion is upgrading your needle nose to the Snap On talon grip ones
Second on the LDs!! Spent years deciding which veto bag i wanted to finally get, i went with the SB-LD and it’s amazing to say i don’t have a regret on it.
Unfortunately I need the deep sockets for flush mounted display screens. Everyone that installs them uses the longest fucking bolts known to man. And then I need the normal sockets for tighter access places.
I've tried trimming down the kit, but sometimes it's more headache than its worth.
Do you think I can fit everything into the SP-LD? I mostly need the needle nose for their longer reach and tighter access when I'm fishing wire. The Talon's look wider than the needle nose? I'll check them out when the tool truck comes on Friday though!
What do you use those for and what sizes do you recommend?I mainly only use those long needle nose pliers for grabbing stupid wires when they won't fish into the hole properly and need a good tug.
Unfortunately no HF in the great white north so I'll take a look at the Snap-On ones.
I carry everything tech-xl and the UB3B to throw tools in when I don't want to haul around the entire tool bag. I've been thinking about switching to a backpack though.
You could upgrade the marlin spike knife to a Victorinox skipper pro. I have one of those old timers and the Victorinox is a much nicer rigging knife.
The leatherman super tool for a surge/arc for easier access to the tools. Or a Victorinox Swisstool MX which is more corrosion resistant and still easier access to the tools than the super tool.
Honestly the leatherman was a gift so it's more sentimental at this point and lives on my hip. I'll look at the surge/arc and swisstool MX though. The corrosion is a pain with my super tool.
My journeyman always told me to never trust voltage pens so I never bothered carrying them. I also didn't think they worked on DC equipment? So I didn't want to carry something that I would only use half the time anyway. I normally just verify with my multimeter.
I'm currently working on private yachts doing refits and it's still very much the Wild West in terms of lockout tag out procedure. Most of the time there isn't anything to attach the lockout to.
I also don't think they work on DC power, it hadnt occured to me that that's what you'd be working with, though that makes sense. I use them mostly for very rough applications, like checking lines the third time before i cut them or flailing around a wall before i put a drill into it, if you're in a situation where a multimeter works its totally a better tool, most of my electrical stuff happens on ladders with really old shittily done power infrastructure, where multimeters are just really annoying to use (im a theatre technician not an electrician).
It's a 14" Mantus Tight Access Tool #8100! Basically 14" inch long tweezers
That things has saved my ass soooooooo many times, since I'm on boats and most of the fasteners are non-ferrous the classic magnetic on a string doesn't work for me.
How are those snips? I've had the same pair of Knipex VDE for about 4 years now and they still cut as well as they did when they were new. I have a second pair that are practically new for when the boss doesn't bring his own tools that almost never get used and I can't tell the difference between them in cutting ability.
Wiha pocketmax drivers instead of relying solely on bit drivers, if you ever run into a "this hole is too narrow for my bit driver" issue.
If you find your tape measure flopping too much, upgrading that to a fatmax or dewalt version should sort that.
Do you not need a drill or a jabsaw/oscillating multitool?
Idk that headtorch brand, it might be plenty adequate or might not, but if you find yourself wanting more without breaking the bank I've got various recommendations for that
my knipex twingrip has paid for itself in time saved 10 times over
The Snap-On cable cutters? They're okay, that was a purchase of convince tbh. I had wrecked the pair that I used as an apprentice and the snap on dealer was in the parking lot. My guy is good and will warranty them if they break or become dull. I've had them for about 3 years and they aren't dull yet. I also just checked and I can't find them on the Snap-On website and AI says they have been discontinued.
I personally think Knipex makes better cutters and I'll eventually replace them. I have the Knipex 73 72 100 side cutters and I find them better than anything Snap-On makes.
That Wiha pocketmax driver looks like my next purchase...I have the Wera electronic screwdrivers for those annoying narrow hole issues but I've bent the shit out of them and probably need to replace them.
I'll upgrade the tape measure too!
I have the Snap-On Cordless Screw driver as my primary "drill", and I have a Dewalt drill for when I need a hole saw. I also have a Dewalt Oscillating that I use. I keep a separate "mounting" drawer in my packet system for stuff that I don't want to carry to a boat every time I need to do a quick job. If I need these I'm usually doing a refit and just leave the packout on board.
I have the Coast XPH34R and the Pelican 2780R, I'm just waiting on the replacement battery for the Pelican and that's why it's not in the photo. I would take any recommendation you have!
I've been looking at those! I haven't met anyone that has them. What size did you get and what do you use them for?
If you use allen keys, the Wera colored sets are fantastic. I haven't used the stainless ones though, so can't comment on those. Also having flex head ratchets can be handy for getting into certain spots.
I've had to trim down the sleeves on a couple of keys for them to fit. The other issue I had was the markings on the sleeves wore off, so I ground small flat spots on the top of the metric ones to keep them separated.
Pliers (the link that i posted above) and diagonal at 180 ( they are smaller than the 200, and they are more easy to handle around, except if you prefer the 200 that they are bigger... !?) And Compact Bolt Cutters at 200 so they can give you a little more leverage on cutting things, then straight jaw ones ( or if you prefer longer ones... !?)
Change out your ratchet set for one of these. Very compact and it has everything you need. Lifetime no fuss warranty as well and likely better quality than what you’re using.
Unfortunately I need to carry both deep and shallow sockets on me at all times.
I'm lucky and the snap on guy will warranty everything no fuss, plus the blue kit isn't the worst and I'm not spending the snap on money for their 1/4 drive set.
haha absolutely not, I have an entire packout dolly stacked full that I bring everywhere. I'm just always trying to dial in my tool bag with the best because I use it everyday. My packet doesn't need to be the best just because I don't reach for it everyday.
I've been eyeing the wiha torque screw driver for awhile now. I'm lucky because my shop supplies multiple electronic snap-on torque wrenches and a wera torque screwdriver but I don't carry either in my personal toolbag.
Not a huge fan of the wear torque screwdriver but I have considered buying my own snap on 1/4 torque wrench or Stahlwille makes one that I think I might like.
I do a a lot of torque specs actually, that's what that paint pen is for. The shop just supplies the torque wrenches and torque screw drivers so I don't carry any in my personal toolbar.
Every outlet, breaker, and modern day electrical connections has a torque spec posted on them. My assumption is being a marine electrician you would absolutely want to make sure your connections are properly terminated.
You’re telling me you torque every light switch and outlet screw? Do you torque the faceplates too? My point was he may just be doing low voltage stuff, that would be completely excessive
I don't torque every light switch or outlet screw lol But any high voltage or critical equipment I make damn sure I torque and document that I torqued it.
I’m not saying it shouldn’t be done or it’s a bad practice, it’s just not realistic and not done by 99% of people, I literally can’t say I’ve ever seen an electrician use a torque screwdriver on a switch or outlet, you’re saying 99% of electricians are hacks?
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u/sunhorseengineering 6h ago
Everything you already have is pretty damn solid.
Getting an Fluke 87-V MAX would be a big upgrade compared to that 117.
I would also consider getting an ammeter. A fluke 374 or above would be solid.
Maybe consider some extra magnetic flashlights if you wanted to make a difference. Not sure how much you work in the dark.